My two cents on Banaras. It was my soul-o trip here, a gift to myself for the new years :), and undoubtedly one of my best trips, so much so that it is my favourite city in the world now. There's a lot happening at every corner of the city. A lot!....and they all coexist. Walking through the narrow alleys one can feel how old the city is. Moreover, a lot of my myths got busted: you'd be safe here in Banaras rather helped around by the locals, I have so many incidents to prove that:) ; Koreans and Chinese are friendly people too! My hostel room had them all around and we did the entire trip together. I stashed away their fancy gizmos which they loved me for in the end :p; one can enjoy Banaras in so many other ways than visiting temples... I didn't visit any;)