Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One)

Tripoto
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 1/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Our friend, guide, as we start our journey from Haridwar.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 2/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Day 1: We board the only Govt. bus to Chamoli at 5:00 a.m.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 3/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Our first breakfast stop after Devaprayag
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 4/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We enter the Shivalik ranges. The roads are ridden with landslides.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 5/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
As we enter Rudraprayag. There are five Prayags; confluence points of two rivers
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 6/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Wherever you go in Uttarakhand, rivers are your guardian angels
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 7/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We finally cross Karnaprayag. Confluence of Alaknanda and Pindar rivers. I am in
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 8/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
It's an eight hour tiring bus ride
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 9/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Rakya asks the waiter here, "Kitne saal se hotel khula hai?", "Khane mein namak
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 10/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
From Chamoli we take a cab to Gopeshwar (12 km). The drunk guy on right asks us
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 11/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
From Gopeshwar we head to Mandal (13 km), where we're supposed to start our trek
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 12/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Locals at Mandal warn us about heavy snow deposition at Rudranath.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 13/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We're tired, but we trek 5km uphill to Anusuya Devi, which'll be our halt for th
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 14/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Dense jungles start and the path gets steeper. We're heart broken, Rudranath was
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 15/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 16/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
It gets darker and more beautiful. Damn date stamps.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 17/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 18/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
This is our stay for the night. Hardly five people stay in Anusuya Devi
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 19/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Our dinner's being cooked by Ranuji, the one man force behind Hotel Lodge. Dal,
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 20/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
It's cold and we make ourselves warm. We meet a jovial hippie Maharaj ji.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 21/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Rakya looks for his cozy spot. The ceiling is ridiculously low.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 22/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Day 2: One of the most beautiful mornings I have woken up to. You never hear bir
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 23/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Anusuya Devi temple
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 24/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Pose to banta hai
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 25/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Rudranath next year! We head towards Atri Muni cave. It's a 2 km walk.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 26/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Posers
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 27/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
This part, near Atri Muni cave is dangerous. One slip to the left and you're don
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 28/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Maharaj ji helps us
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 29/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Waterfalls besides Atri Muni cave. You can trek behind the falls.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 30/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
On our way back we meet Swami Akhileshwarananda, who's been doing saadhna here s
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 31/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Swamiji asks us questions in electronics, as he has a keen interest in it. He he
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 32/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We trek back the same day to catch a bus to Chopta, where we'll trek towards Tun
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 33/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
A bridge has broken down on the way, and everybody in the bus lends a hand
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 34/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
The bus makes it :)
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 35/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We reach Chopta. It's freezing here and there's no electricity. We stay without
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 36/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Day 3: We trek up to Tungnath at 6:00 a.m. A dog joins us. Tungnath is at 12,073
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 37/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
There's snow along the way. Makes the path extremely slippery
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 38/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
This, THIS is priceless
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 39/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Long way to go. We're already taking breaks because of less oxygen.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 40/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We finally see the village.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 41/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
It's dipped in snow. Locals are clearing up the place. They leave this place fo
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 42/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Trekking on snow without the right shoes can be dangerous. The dog leads the way
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 43/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Jai Tungnath! A 'save the girl child' campaign.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 44/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 45/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
12,073 ft
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 46/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
The dog shall be pampered, for it has loyalty, and we have food. Soon after it j
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 47/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We try to trek up to Chandrashila from there (13,000 ft), but lose our way becau
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 48/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Posers pose - 2
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 49/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Posers pose - 3
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 50/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We decide to climb up Chandrashila anyway. It's a 70 degree climb as we can't fi
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 51/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
By the time we reach the peak, our lungs are exploding.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 52/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Moon God spent time in penance here, hence the name.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 53/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
You get a beautiful 360 degree of Chaukhamba, Nanda Devi, Kedar peaks. You're at
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 54/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
The temple at Chandrashila peak
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 55/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
A local helps us find our way down, as we can't trek down on snow.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 56/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
The tip is Chandrashila
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 57/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We come down to Chopta.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 58/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
The Shahi Paneer at Bugyaal hotel here is delicious. The higher you go in the Hi
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 59/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We head to Joshimath, the same day. Cabbies don't travel after sunset because of
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 60/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Day 4: Next day we head to the Tehsil office for a permission to travel to Badri
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 61/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We sit and plan the next two days. Nagar Palika elections full power in Joshimat
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 62/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We head to Auli.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 63/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We take a ropeway from where, it's 4 km to the top.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 64/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Auli is very touristy and not much fun
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 65/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
The bugyals are beautiful though. There's snow in the jungles above.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 66/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Our maggi stop. We learn about the 4-day Dronagiri trek here.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 67/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 68/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
There are flags full power everywhere in the Himalayas
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 69/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Day 5: We trek up to Bhavishya Badri. It's the most steep climb we've done in th
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 70/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
There's step farming everywhere. Reminds me of Aizawl days
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 71/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 72/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Meeting locals along the way
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 73/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
You look back after a while, and it's difficult to figure out where you started
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 74/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 75/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We reach the Bhavishya Badri village. It's a 3 km even steeper climb from here,
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 76/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Mountain water is the tastiest water can get.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 77/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Dronagiri and Nanda Devi peaks
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 78/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Bugyals on the way
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 79/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We finally make it to the top. Here, at Kali Shankar Math, we meet Tyagi Baba wh
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 80/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 81/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We talk to Tyagi Baba about faith, spiritual-materialistic balance, yoga, and li
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 82/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Bhavishya Badri is 500 m further uphill
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 83/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
As per mythology, the Nar and Narayan ranges will move towards each other making
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 84/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
As we trek down, maggi beckons again. We meet the shopkeeper's kids. Kailash and
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 85/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We head to Helong (15km from Joshimath) the same day, which is in the middle of
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 86/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We're lucky to get an under construction room. There's electricity only after 6:
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 87/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Day 6: From Helong we head to Kalpanath via Urgam and Devgram villages. It's a 4
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 88/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Everyone's so nice in the villages. Kids greet you with a Namaste.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 89/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 90/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
People call tourists as Bangalis in many villages there. Talks about their love
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 91/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We cross Devgram village
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 92/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
There are thousands of these along the way, in houses at Devgram
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 93/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Flag full power
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 94/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We finally reach Kalpnath. The first Kedar in the Panch Kedar circuit.
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 95/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 96/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Locals tell us about a Sundervan Baba who stays further 3 km inside Sundervan de
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 97/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We decide to explore the jungles. They're dense and scary. Kalpaganga river gush
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 98/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We spot Baba's kutir. He's nice. Baba is an IIT Kanpur grad who loved travel bef
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 99/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
We have two more visitors. The man on left was Rajiv Gandhi's PSO. There's a you
Photo of Himalayan Hiking Chronicles (Part One) 100/100 by Sarthak Satapathy
Baba knows lead vocalists from Shillong based bands like Mojo and Soulmate. We l

There's always a reason. In the Himalayas, experiences happen to you, you don't plan them in advance.

Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Himalayas by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Haridwar by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Devprayag by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Rudraprayag by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Karnaprayag by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Chamoli by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Gopeshwar by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Mandal, Uttarakhand by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Anusuya Devi, Uttarakhand by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Chopta by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Tungnath by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Tungnath by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Joshimath by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Joshimath by Sarthak Satapathy
Photo of Auli Ski Resort by Sarthak Satapathy