Our friend, guide, as we start our journey from Haridwar.Day 1: We board the only Govt. bus to Chamoli at 5:00 a.m.Our first breakfast stop after DevaprayagWe enter the Shivalik ranges. The roads are ridden with landslides.As we enter Rudraprayag. There are five Prayags; confluence points of two riversWherever you go in Uttarakhand, rivers are your guardian angelsWe finally cross Karnaprayag. Confluence of Alaknanda and Pindar rivers. I am inIt's an eight hour tiring bus rideRakya asks the waiter here, "Kitne saal se hotel khula hai?", "Khane mein namak From Chamoli we take a cab to Gopeshwar (12 km). The drunk guy on right asks us From Gopeshwar we head to Mandal (13 km), where we're supposed to start our trekLocals at Mandal warn us about heavy snow deposition at Rudranath.We're tired, but we trek 5km uphill to Anusuya Devi, which'll be our halt for thDense jungles start and the path gets steeper. We're heart broken, Rudranath wasIt gets darker and more beautiful. Damn date stamps.This is our stay for the night. Hardly five people stay in Anusuya DeviOur dinner's being cooked by Ranuji, the one man force behind Hotel Lodge. Dal, It's cold and we make ourselves warm. We meet a jovial hippie Maharaj ji.Rakya looks for his cozy spot. The ceiling is ridiculously low.Day 2: One of the most beautiful mornings I have woken up to. You never hear birAnusuya Devi templePose to banta haiRudranath next year! We head towards Atri Muni cave. It's a 2 km walk.PosersThis part, near Atri Muni cave is dangerous. One slip to the left and you're donMaharaj ji helps usWaterfalls besides Atri Muni cave. You can trek behind the falls.On our way back we meet Swami Akhileshwarananda, who's been doing saadhna here sSwamiji asks us questions in electronics, as he has a keen interest in it. He heWe trek back the same day to catch a bus to Chopta, where we'll trek towards TunA bridge has broken down on the way, and everybody in the bus lends a handThe bus makes it :)We reach Chopta. It's freezing here and there's no electricity. We stay without Day 3: We trek up to Tungnath at 6:00 a.m. A dog joins us. Tungnath is at 12,073There's snow along the way. Makes the path extremely slipperyThis, THIS is pricelessLong way to go. We're already taking breaks because of less oxygen.We finally see the village.It's dipped in snow. Locals are clearing up the place. They leave this place foTrekking on snow without the right shoes can be dangerous. The dog leads the wayJai Tungnath! A 'save the girl child' campaign.12,073 ftThe dog shall be pampered, for it has loyalty, and we have food. Soon after it jWe try to trek up to Chandrashila from there (13,000 ft), but lose our way becauPosers pose - 2Posers pose - 3We decide to climb up Chandrashila anyway. It's a 70 degree climb as we can't fiBy the time we reach the peak, our lungs are exploding.Moon God spent time in penance here, hence the name.You get a beautiful 360 degree of Chaukhamba, Nanda Devi, Kedar peaks. You're atThe temple at Chandrashila peakA local helps us find our way down, as we can't trek down on snow.The tip is ChandrashilaWe come down to Chopta.The Shahi Paneer at Bugyaal hotel here is delicious. The higher you go in the HiWe head to Joshimath, the same day. Cabbies don't travel after sunset because ofDay 4: Next day we head to the Tehsil office for a permission to travel to BadriWe sit and plan the next two days. Nagar Palika elections full power in JoshimatWe head to Auli.We take a ropeway from where, it's 4 km to the top.Auli is very touristy and not much funThe bugyals are beautiful though. There's snow in the jungles above.Our maggi stop. We learn about the 4-day Dronagiri trek here.There are flags full power everywhere in the HimalayasDay 5: We trek up to Bhavishya Badri. It's the most steep climb we've done in thThere's step farming everywhere. Reminds me of Aizawl daysMeeting locals along the wayYou look back after a while, and it's difficult to figure out where you startedWe reach the Bhavishya Badri village. It's a 3 km even steeper climb from here, Mountain water is the tastiest water can get.Dronagiri and Nanda Devi peaksBugyals on the wayWe finally make it to the top. Here, at Kali Shankar Math, we meet Tyagi Baba whWe talk to Tyagi Baba about faith, spiritual-materialistic balance, yoga, and liBhavishya Badri is 500 m further uphillAs per mythology, the Nar and Narayan ranges will move towards each other makingAs we trek down, maggi beckons again. We meet the shopkeeper's kids. Kailash andWe head to Helong (15km from Joshimath) the same day, which is in the middle of We're lucky to get an under construction room. There's electricity only after 6:Day 6: From Helong we head to Kalpanath via Urgam and Devgram villages. It's a 4Everyone's so nice in the villages. Kids greet you with a Namaste.People call tourists as Bangalis in many villages there. Talks about their love We cross Devgram villageThere are thousands of these along the way, in houses at DevgramFlag full powerWe finally reach Kalpnath. The first Kedar in the Panch Kedar circuit.Locals tell us about a Sundervan Baba who stays further 3 km inside Sundervan deWe decide to explore the jungles. They're dense and scary. Kalpaganga river gushWe spot Baba's kutir. He's nice. Baba is an IIT Kanpur grad who loved travel befWe have two more visitors. The man on left was Rajiv Gandhi's PSO. There's a youBaba knows lead vocalists from Shillong based bands like Mojo and Soulmate. We lThere's always a reason. In the Himalayas, experiences happen to you, you don't plan them in advance. HimalayasHaridwarDevprayagRudraprayagKarnaprayagChamoliGopeshwarMandalAnusuya DeviChoptaTungnathJoshimathAuli Ski Resort