After my final exams I decided to go on a Himalayan trek because why not ?!But just like how most of our trips don’t work out, this too didn’t happen due to a lot of reasons.The first one being money and the next was to find a companion as it is hard to find someone who would agree to spend 20k just to climb. Well, I got lucky after a year when I was about to finish my internship. A friend of mine, who was equally enthusiastic decided to go with me and I had managed to save enough money in that one year. It all seemed perfect.The next thing to do was to decide when and where to go, and this my friends is a very tough thing to decide upon.We spent sleepless nights surfing through Indiahikes and other trekking pages and blogs and finally decided to go to Brahmatal trek. The second part was easy to decide i.e when to go.New year was around the corner so we decided to go during that time as we couldn’t think of a better way to start the new year!
Brahmatal is one of the most beautiful treks in the Himalayas and is specially known for its high-altitude frozen lakes. The altitude of this trek is 12,250 ft so the chances of suffering from altitude sickness is pretty low. This trek shares its basecamp with two other treks,Roopkund and Ali Bedni Bugyal. You also get to see mount Trishul up-close.This is a massive mountain which looks like Gods own trident standing majestically at 7000ft above sea level.You can also see another mountain that is Mount Nanda Ghunti. The best season to trek Brahmatal is in winter. I personally prefer to trek in the months of December and March as the snowfall will be and views will be quite clear.
Day Zero: Bangalore to Rishikesh
We took a flight from Bangalore to Dehradun after which we hired a taxi from Dehradun to Rishikesh. The flight tickets were expensive due to the holiday season,so we got our tickets for 11k two way, but u can get it for 8 to 9k and if you have discounts and offers then you can get it for cheaper. We paid rupees 800 for the taxi from Dehradun to Rishikesh but you can find cheaper options as well. The alternative plan that I would suggest to you is to take a flight till Delhiand go by road to Rishikesh from there. The journey by road takes a total of 5 hours to reach and this journey is said to be immensely beautiful with its greenery and winding mountain roads. You can also take a train from Delhi to Rishikesh in order to minimize the expenses.
We reached Dehradun at 9 am and after half an hour managed to get a cab to reach Rishikesh. Our accommodation was in an ashram which was free of cost and our food was arranged in a different ashram, the Shivanand ashram which was again free of cost. We got basic healthy food which was good enough. If you don’t prefer an ashram you will budget hostels like Zostel in the area, but you must make sure to book well in advance due to the high demand. There is a hostel right next to Zostel which is also a great place to stay in while being friendly on your pockets.
Day 1: Rishikesh to Lohajung
Indiahikes provided us with transport from Rishikesh to the basecamp but this was not included in the trek fee and we had to split the cost amongst ourselves. It costed us 1k one way which we thought was quite okay for a 290km drive. On the way we saw different prayags i.e. the confluences of rivers and it was a sight of pure beauty. After the 8hour long journey we reached the base camp and we were welcomed by Indiahikes with a delicious dinner and we were happy that our stomachs were satisfied and tastebuds amazed and that is when we had to wash our plates with ice cold water which made my hands numb for a good amount of time! After this we headed for the briefing of the trek and they sure scared us but nevertheless we were extremely excited. We met our fellow trek mates as well as the trek leader all of whom we would soon be great friends with.
Day2: Lohajung to Bekaltal :
The day I had dreamed of and prepped for so long had finally come. I had been excited for this moment for the last 1.5 months. We had a wake-upcall early in the morning after which I got out of bed and stepped out of the room to be greeted by beautiful Himalayas looking like a queen adorned in golden crown!! I hadn’t noticed it at night but there were mountains in all direction and few of them were snow capped.I was sure lucky enough to wake-up at the perfect time when the sun was rising and as the rays slowly hit the snow capped mountains,they turned golden. What a sight to witness at the very start of the day! I couldn’t imagine how the rest of the trek would be if the basecamp itself was so magical.
After snapping out of my thoughts, my friend and I went to get our medical cards filled and had our breakfast after which we had small group session before the trek began.During this time I met two interesting people, one was MunnaBhai as he is affectionately called and other, ViruPaji. Initially I felt that the trek was difficult but I slowly got a hang of it and we completed 6.3 kms in 4 hours and that was good according to our trek leader Anuj. We saw snow around 2 kms before the campsite and this happened to be a forest trail and it was mesmerizing to see the huge trees and the snow covered ground which eventually opened up to a wide patch of clear land where a lot of tents were pitched, some blue and some yellow.
We were dead tired by the time we reached the camp andwere again welcomed by amazing food and hot water. We enjoyed the rest of the day snow sliding (I was only watching) and as the night set in the stars started to come out showing their beauty. We had an early dinner which ended with a dessert.Yes,Indiahikes managed to give us a dessert at 9800ft, quite impressive if I must say! After the dinner we went to our respective tents while some of the trekkers star gazed and some just enjoyed the whole vibe.
Exactly at around 12 am I woke up to answer natures call. While walking towards the toilet tent, I looked up for a second thought that I was hallucinating,and I froze there with my eyes fixed towards the sky. It looked it was taken out of a spectacular painting. I could see the entire milky way and also managed to catch a glimpse of two shooting stars.I had never seen something so beautiful in my whole life and I forgot all about the troubles I faced to reach there. I could do it all over again without hesitation as it was all worth the pain. This is how my second day ended- By wishing upon shooting stars and being awestruck by the beautifully painted sky.
Day 3 :Bekaltal to Tilandi :
We woke up in the morning and went to get some hot chai because it was very cold. Cold weather and hot chai felt like the best things in the world and to me, a person who dislikes tea, that feeling was surreal. After freshening up and having our breakfast we were made to do warmup exercise and trust me it was so much fun. Our trek leader Anuj made sure that we had fun. We then headed towards Bekaltal.It was around 15-20 minutes away from the camp site and we were told that that day’s trek was easy, and we would reach the next campsite in 1 hour so we could spend some time in Bekaltal, the frozen lake.
The lake it was so big that I felt like a tiny little ant in front of it.It was frozen white and surrounded by trees. Everyone proceeded to take pictures of this mesmerizing beauty while I sat there listening to music. I closed my eyes as the wind brushed my face. I wanted to capture this moment forever in my mind.The occasional sounds of people laughing and slipping on the ice, filled the place.It was so peaceful and calm that all my worries and problems started to melt away.This feeling lasted until we were told by our leader to start trekking again and we all obeyed.
We were not gaining too much altitude as the trek was short and yet it was quite steep. We all struggled and staggered to reach the campsite with many breaks in-between. It was a forest trail with minimum to no trace of sunlight. Finally, after what felt like an eternity, the forest trail ended, and we saw a wide patch of clearing with no trees visible for as far as my eyes could reach.After a short walk, to the left we could see our yellow tents placed in order behind which we could see hues of different ranges of mountains. The landscape was immensely beautiful. To our right was the most spectacular view of the snowcapped mountains stretching far and wide.There was a blanket of snow covering the whole place. A little ahead of the campsite we could see a steep slope and on enquiry I got to know that it led to Brahmatal Top our next destination.
This campsite was exclusive to Indiahikes hence we were the only group at the campsite.It felt like a private space with amazing views and I never missed my opportunity to take a tent that was right in front. We all dropped our backpacks and sat on the stone which was at the edge and gave clear views of the mountains and this is also the first time I was able to see Mount Trishul in its full glory. The surprising part was that we were getting network at that spot at 10000ft above sea level! Ogling at the mountains we went to have our lunch which again was super delicious. After lunch I retired to my tent to rest for a while, but my mind couldn’t cooperate with my body. So, I put on my gaiters and went outside and decided to build a snowman.That is how I realized that it wasn’t as easy as they show in the movies because the snow is powdery. After quite a hard attempt I gave up and saw a few people on the steep side of the camp, so I climbed there sat on a good big rock and chitchatted with them. After a few minutes we chose to be silent and just enjoyed the breeze and the view of our tents which bythe way looked really tiny.
Anuj our trek leader called us and told that we are going for a short walk to get the view of the sunset.We were made to climb in knee deep snow again and all of us were exhausted by the time we reached the top and what greeted us was beyond magical. I just sat there and watched the sun disappearing after shining all day. The sun was setting at quite a fast pace. The bright blue sky changed as it gave away different shades of orange and red as it played peek-a-boo, hiding behind the exotic mountains like a child and the sky slowly changed into a young woman in love blushing a deep shade of red while on the otherside the snow peaks turned golden , they looked like a princess adorned with gold . I was awestruck as I had never seen so many different shades of these colors and eventually the sun disappeared, and the sky turned a shade of dark blue like the stormy sea before turning completely dark as we walked back to our campsite completely mesmerized with the views and wondering what more was awaiting us.
After dinner we were told to meet because the next day was our summit climb and Anuj had to give us instructions. After the briefing we headed to the stone at the edge to see the glow of the silhouette of the beautiful Himalayas and looking higher up we could see the countless number of stars as though they are watching over us with great joy. The whole set up was so beautiful with the magnificent mountains and the shining milky way all in one frame and an occasional shooting made an icing on the cake. It was very cold that night, probably 0 degrees Celsius and extremely windy so we decided to retire to bed as we had to get a good amount of sleep and wake up early for the summit climb.
Day 4:Tilandi to Brahmatal-Top to Khorurai :
The D-day with 8hours of trekking! That day I woke up early and as I opened the tent I was greeted with a beautiful view of the mountains and icy cold breeze which made it so hard to get out of my sleeping bag. I had my tea which was now my favorite part of the trek. I freshened upand packed my bag with hotwater and my packed lunch and was all set to start the trek. We trekked the steep slope and reached what was called as the Jhandi Top. Throughout the trek we could see Mt.Trishul and it felt like we were walking right next to it at some point of time. The trek till here was sure painfully exhausting and after a short break we headed towards the Brahmatal-Top and this was a complete ridge walk with so many ups and downs, there were views of mountains on both sides and looking down on the way we could see Brahmatal lake.It was as beautiful as we expected, but we couldn’t go there as there was a lot of snow.So, admired it from a distance and went ahead.
The ridge walk was pretty adventurous as it was a narrow strip to walk on with steep slopes on either side. One slip and you will not be found ever. In some sections it was very slippery and had to put my whole concentration on the walk.Around noon we reached the Brahmatal-Top and we were so excited because we finally made it through all the odds !!! That moment was absolutely magical.We had a great view of Mt. Trishul, Mt.Nanda ghunti among the others.We also caught a glimpse of Ali and Bedni Bugyal. We were lost in taking pictures after which we even did a short dance and later sat down to have lunch. I just took in whatever views my eyes could take because I did not know when I’d come back to these mountains.
As I sat there, I felt the cold breeze caressing my face and my hair dancing to its tune. My thoughts flowing and my eyes reflecting the beauty of the mountains. At this point I realized that nature was the most amazing artist. And the creation of the supreme power was too amazing. I was filled with a sense of happiness and peace and it felt like I didn’t need anything in my life I just wished I could stay there admiring every inch of this beauty.But like all good things this also came to an end and we had to head back before dark.
We walked through the same ridge and finally reached the end and found that there was a small chai stall. I was super happy to see it as I could indulge in my chai mountain moment again =D. We started our trek again took a sharp turn and reached the forest trail which was very steep and since the snow had melted the ground was quite wet hence, we had to be careful not to slip.
After a very tiring downhill walk we reached the campsite called Khorurai, picked a tent and relaxed for a while. What came next was an absolute treat! We were served pasta which was so tasty that I gobbled up the whole plate within seconds and my heart and stomach were contented. We retired for the night and as all of us were extremely tired we fell asleep immediately .
Day 5:Khorurai to Lohajung
It was the last day of the trek and I was filled with mixed emotions I was happy, content and sad all at the same time. I was happy to go back and find a bed to sleep on and a normal toilet but at the same time I would miss the tents, the snow, the mountains and my mountain chai moments. I woke up to the sound of people leaving early in the morning, few of the trekkers wanted to leave since it was 31st of December n they wanted to celebrate the New Year’s Eve in Rishikesh, but my friend and I chose to stay back. Now when I think of it, I realize that it was the best decision we had ever made.
I woke up a little later to an empty campsite with quite a small number of people.There were only six of us and it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves. We had our breakfast in the kitchen tent.The kitchen staff filled us with food and stories and the fire cradled us with its warmth. It felt like a true outdoor camping and the people who were mere strangers on day one had become the best of friends. After freshening up and basking in the warmth of the sun we headed down to Lohajung. The trek was easy, and the terrain was downhill while we had to cover a distance of 3kms which wasn’t steep.So we decided to take the long route as we descended, MunnaBhai entertained us with a lot of stories.Most of them were creepy while some were funny.
I will narrate a few of them-It is believed that mount Trishul is the residence of Lord Shiva and as we know Shiva is worshiped by both the living and the dead. Around Mount Trishul, you tend to find a lot of bad spirits who come down and harm the mankind, so Shiva confined them to the upper parts of the hills according to the local folklore. It is said that if you see any suspicious person who appears out of nowhere you shouldn’t talk to them because if you do, you might end up speaking to one of the bad sprits and eventually you will die. He also said that one of his relative had gone up the hill to fetch some wood where she saw a man who looked like a lost tourist and out of concern she asked the tourist if he was lost and he replied that he was indeed lost and also asked her the way back to the village. Being the kind woman that she was, she directed him the way back and the tourist went a little ahead and changed his form into an animal and disappeared into the woods. Now the woman understood that it wasn’t a human she had spoken to and was visibly shaken.After a few months she was diagnosed with cancer and passed away battling for her life. According to the doctors it was cancer but according to the villagers it was the bad spirit.
Munnabhai told us many such stories and even showed us a haunted house where a guy had committed suicide and still haunts the place. The most interesting thing he told us was about a book that Lord Indra had written about black magic and how people who read it go crazy. We didn’t realize when we reached Lohajung! All thanks to munna bhai’s amazing tales.We reached Indiahikes guesthouse and the first thing we did was to eat ! After this we strolled around Lohajung. Lohajung is a small scenic place with a lot of shops and a huge tree in the center with a temple next to it. After exploring the village, we went back for dinner and played some card games.We had a lot of fun and at midnight we wished each other a happy new year and went to our comfortable beds which we didn’t have for a few days. And that night I slept like a baby satisfied and content.
Day 6:Lohajung to Rishikesh
We wokeup to see the “Golden Himalayas”. We packed our bags had our chai and breakfast and headed to the tempo traveler feeling mixed emotions thinking when we can experience this again. The journey back was fun this time as we played games and sang songs. The time flew by very fast and we reached our destination.We bid our friends farewell as we prepared to go back to our mundane lives but this time with stories to tell, experiences to live by and memories to keep us moving forward.
Few Tips
• If you are going in winter, make sure you layer yourself properly because the cold breeze is really really cold.
• Make sure you have the basic fitness otherwise it’ll be difficult, and you can’t enjoy the trek.
• Buy sweaters and jackets in Rishikesh as they are cheap and of good quality. you’ll find good ones even in Lohajung but I am not quite sure about the price.
• Don’t carry a lot of things for the trek as it will just strain you more.Carry light.