When thinking of vacationing in the UK, most people automatically gravitate towards London, Manchester and Edinburgh. As beautiful and cosmopolitan as those cities are, many forget that the British Isles also cradle the beauty of Wales. The Pembrokeshire area on the island of Wales hides gorgeous cliffside beaches, an idyllic rolling countryside and quaint, colourful towns.
Pembrokeshire, or as the Welsh call it, Sir Benfro, is the perfect place to live in, with friendly locals, tree-lined roads and sheep galore. And if you are looking for a budget trip, this part of the world is much cheaper to visit than the tourist-traps of London, Liverpool and such.
Studying in the UK is a unique privilege. You get to learn a lot and mingle with different cultures and people. At the same time, you are often exhaustingly broke, especially if the rate of conversion is not on your side. One of the first things I learned when I went to the UK was to leave behind the whole concept of mentally converting pounds to rupees, lest I go a little cuckoo!
While there are a host of lovely houses to live in and a lot of super convenient student housing options, the cost of living often makes or breaks the people staying in the UK. Having lived in multiple student houses, PGs and hostels through life, my mantra has become simple.
When student accommodations are sucking your bank account dry, it’s time to shift bases.
As our stint in the UK was coming to an end, my friend and I decided to save some of the money that we were funnelling towards lodging and reinvest it in travel. Thus began our journey of looking for housing far away from commercial centres and closer to the myriads of beautiful locales that the isles have to offer. Ricocheting between Scotland and Wales, we decided to find a place where we could satisfy our craving for the fresh ocean breeze and the need to travel roads less taken.
After intensive googling and going back and forth between many perfect-looking options, we rented an Airbnb in Neyland, across Pembroke dock, for a quarter of the price that we were paying for the student accommodations. Booking an Airbnb for more than a few days came with its own unique perks and we booked ours for two whole months. There was a discount because of the long duration of our stay and as our Airbnb was a whole apartment instead of a few rooms in a house where the landlord lives within the premises, we had the place to ourselves.
Neyland is a very tiny town, consisting of one main road sloping down to the marina. You can see the diamond-crusted waters of the Pembroke dock from almost any point in the town and there are conveniently placed benches every few meters, where you can catch ruddy sunsets and gaze at the crystal-studded sky.
Being much cheaper in general than the big cities in England and Scotland, Wales is the perfect place to live on a budget. You can buy fresh farm produce from the markets and head to Pembroke to find all that you need to live in comfort. The best way to save money, after low-cost accommodation, is to travel via bus. The stops have schedules for the buses that ply in the area and it is a good idea to find the nearest bus stop to your house and remember the buses that go through.
Usually, the buses connect all the major hubs in the small, gorgeous area—so going to places like Milford Haven or Pembroke Dock would not be a problem at all. Catching a bus to Swansea or Cardiff is also pretty easy, just a small hike up the main road to Honeyborough roundabout. The National Express buses go through there.
Another great way to travel in Pembrokeshire is to buy the railcard and take the train from Pembroke dock. The station is a quaint junction and all the trains have great Wi-Fi. If you think you love railway travel, the tracks that travel along the craggy cliffs bordering the sea will make you reconsider everything you thought you had seen. There are panoramic views to fall in love with, in Pembrokeshire.
You will find in the course of your journey, whether by train or bus, huge undulating farms with horses running parallel to the tracks and lovely old buildings with children playing in the yard. Most local sightseeing in Pembrokeshire can be done via local buses and for the more adventurous souls, there is trekking and hiking.
For self-professed mermaids and water-lovers, Wales has a staggering 2,740 km of coastline including offshore islands, dramatic cliffs, secluded sandy beaches and rock pools to explore. All provide a spectacular backdrop for a range of leisure activities and water sports.
Harbour porpoises are easily spotted from the coast of Pembrokeshire and there are several boat trips available into the deep waters nearby, where you can come across bottlenose dolphins that live here. Huge fin whales and smaller whales can also be seen sometimes.
Here are some places in Pembrokeshire that you must visit:
Carew Castle
There's a unique feel to Carew Castle and this tiny hamlet is dominated by the 13th-century castle that stands proudly over its millpond. Its unusual setting has a lot to do with its picture-perfect facade, overlooking the millpond spread over 23 acres. Its subsequent gentrification as a rather splendid Elizabethan country house demonstrates the rich and colourful heritage of the castle, which has recently undergone a major renovation in the past few years.
Not too far from Neyland, Tenby boasts of glorious beaches, a warm atmosphere and majestic Victorian houses. Here you can enjoy a spot of fishing, relax on Caldey Island, visit the 15th-century church or take a walk along the beautiful Pembrokeshire Coast Path. There's also Goscar Rock over on North Beach, clambering over which will lead you to the beachfront snack-bar as well as the vast South Beach, the most spacious of Tenby's beaches.
This is a great place to relax in the sun and meet adorable dogs who come here for fun and frolic amongst the waves. Packing a picnic to take to the beach will cut down on much of the extra expense but if you do want to explore the local cuisine, there are a few cute cafes and eateries that serve fresh fish and great seafood.
Milford Haven is a more commercial area for those who are missing city life. Throughout the year, this beautiful port town hosts a plethora of events like Street Food Festivals, Sunset Cinema screenings, pop-up skate parks, open mic nights, wedding fairs, sailing events, pony rides, craft workshops and face painting. Fashion boutiques and fine dining, high-octane water sports and culture are anchored alongside international maritime trade and the salt-soaked heritage of Milford Haven.
The Port of Pembroke is a town with a short but illustrious past. Before the arrival of the Royal Naval Dockyard on the southern bank of the Cleddau estuary, the site of the present-day Pembroke Dock was an isolated farming and fishing community called Paterchurch. The only surviving remains of Paterchurch are of a tower from the medieval Manor which is thought to date back to the 1300s to 1400s.
This dock is mired in years of military and cultural history and is a great place to explore on foot. For those living nearby, this is the perfect touch of urban life in the middle of the bucolic bliss that Pembrokeshire offers.
Broad Haven and Little Haven together form the Havens community and are perfectly economical beach destinations for those who are worried about expenses. A small village cradling the pastoral slopes of Wales and the sparkling sapphire waters of the Welsh sea, Broad Haven is connected to the rest of the major beaches and towns by the Puffin Shuttle.
This little town has been known as a seaside resort since the 1800s. This is a long, narrow, pebble-filled beach at high tide but at low tide, a huge expanse of firm sand is revealed with plenty of room for everyone. This is the perfect place to take a dip in the bracing Welsh waters. The cliffs on both sides provide some sheltered bays and you should definitely walk around the headland on the south side at low tide into another bay called The Settlands.
Elegug Stacks and The Green Bridge
The south coast of Pembrokeshire is known for its dramatic rock formations and none is more dramatic than the Green Bridge of Wales, a sea arch extending south into the Wash bay. The stack rocks, are called ‘elegug’ because that is the Welsh term for the guillemots and razorbills that nest here. There are a lot of seabirds in this area and this is a great destination for rock climbing as well.
Pembrokeshire is a land abundant with sapphire skies, lush green pastoral landscapes and cobalt waters. If you find yourself on the beach on the Welsh coast on a sunny day, you can stand in the gently lapping, cool waters of the Welsh seas and look back at the beach to find the perfect panorama of gorgeous green slopes dotted with sheep looking like clouds.
Sir Benfro came to me in my moment of need, much like a knight of the round table and the nights spent counting pennies on the table became much easier--not only because of the beauty of Pembrokeshire, but also the affordability of living and travel.
Everyone travelling to the UK, regardless of wallet sizes and itineraries, should spend some time immersed in the idyllic and pastoral setting of the Pembrokeshire coast, where you can walk through a field of tall grass leaves and reach the sparkling blue of the endless ocean.
Remember to buy postcards wherever you go, because within a few months, the majesty of Sir Benfro will feel like a dream to you!
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