We finally made it to Tawang.

Last year in the month of May, I had my first experience of Arunachal Pradesh. A last minute decision to visit this stunning part of India left me speechless. We made a quick trip to Dirang and Sangti Valley ( Trip posted on profile, do check it out ) and I made a promise to return to Arunachal and go all the way to Tawang via Sela Pass.

What I did not know is that I would get the opportunity to visit again a few months later in December.

When the plan was put in to place, I was super excited not only because I was going back to Arunachal but also because we were to go all the way to Tawang.

Day 1 was all about the drive from the plains of Guwahati to Dirang. 6 of us set out in two vehicles - A Ssangyong Rexton and a Volkswagen Vento. Yes you read that right a Vento. I wasn't able to carry my motorcycling gear hence we dropped the idea of going there on bikes ( another bucket list item )

We decided to take the faster route through the Trans Himalayan Highway.

The route we took Guwahati - Mangaldoi - Udalgiri - Bhairabkund - Kalaktang - Bomdila - Dirang - approx 310 kms - 7-8 hours

Bhairabkund is a small town in Assam that borders Arunachal on one side and Bhutan on the other. The climb up the hills start right after crossing into Arunachal.

Our night halt on Day 1 was at Norphel Retreat in Dirang, since we stayed here the last time as well, we knew what to expect, only this time it was sub zero temperatures and clearer skies. The Dirang Valley is stunning. As usual the hotel served us just the kind of food we wanted and we crashed for the night.

On Day 2 we were to drive out to Tawang via Sela Pass. We were super excited as we did not know what to expect. It usually snows in Arunachal in mid January and since it was only end of December we weren't sure if we would find any snow. Deep inside we hoped that we would get to see snow.

After a good walk along the river and a decent breakfast we started the days journey. Since the vehicles were parked outside in the night, they had a layer of ice on them due to the sub zero temperatures.

The climb to Sela pass starts after about 30 kms from Dirang. The roads are in decent condition until then and after that it can be a little unpredictable as the weather can change rapidly.

Once the climb started, it got even colder, the temperatures dipped to about 2-3 degrees and it was not even 12 noon. Just a few kms up and we all started grinning, we parked the cars and jumped out.. we could not control the excitement.. we had snow all around us. The drive from there was like driving in heaven, everything was white. Apparently it had snowed all night and in some areas it was said to be 15-20 cms thick.

Considering I was driving the Vento while climbing I was concerned, Vento doesn't have a good ground clearance and I needed to be careful. On the way up, we picked up two soldiers who needed to go to the base camp which was a few kms up hill. To maintain their privacy I wont mention names here.

They told us many stories about their life in these difficult terrains. I salute the men and women of our armed forces and can't thank them enough.

The soldiers also told me that there was a lot of snow at the base camp and they were concerned that we may not be able to go further. But thats what a road trip is all about, over coming challenges and finding ways to get through. We did have a plan in mind.

We dropped the soldiers and like they said, the snow was everywhere and roads were icy. We had carried ropes which we then decided to tie on the tyres for some grip and continue our journey to sela. Although not as robust as chains, the ropes if tied well do the trick.

We managed to climb the difficult parts and then icy roads disappeared and we could drive up to Se La smoothly. Se La is 13700 ft high and temperatures were around -3 at 1 in the afternoon.

After a brief halt, we continued our journey to tawang. Its pretty much down hill from there, the first few kms were rough roads but then the roads got better.

We reached tawang at around 5 in the evening. This was one of the most exhilarating road trips I have taken and we were thrilled that we finally made it to Tawang.

We stayed at the Yangzom Hotel in Tawang. The hotel is a few kms away from the main town.

In the countryside, the hotel is a warm and welcoming place serving good food. You could also walk all the way to the town which would take about 30 mins.

After a lazy morning we decided to venture out and explore the town, eat some local food and check out the monasteries.

Khinmey Gompa - If you are someone who likes to visit lesser known places, you must visit Khinmey Gompa. A lesser known monastery in a tiny village near tawang, it is a must visit.

Peaceful with breathraking views of the valley, you can go here and sit for hours meditating or gazing at the valley.

Tawang Monastery - The largest of the Buddhist monasteries in India. The complex is huge and takes you back hundreds of years when you go inside. The monastery is right at the top of the town and you get views of tawang town from there.

We also found a path behind the monastery where we spent the evening watching an amazing sunset. The spot is popular amongst the locals who frequent the place for the sunsets.

For food you can try the local cuisine at the town center. There are a few places to eat, don't expect fancy dine in options. But the food will make you smile. Dragon Restaurant serves lip smacking food, gets crowded and service takes a long time, make sure you have the time.

On the Gompa road you could also visit Dharma cafe for some amazing coffee and quiet time.

Day 4 - 30th December. This was our last day in tawang, There was news of major snow storms which may block the road back, so we decided to leave Tawang on 31st morning.

There was still so much to see and most of the other places to visit would take us a day each.

We decided to do the Bum la and Shungetsar Lake visits.

You need special permits from the DM as these are very close to the border and Bum la being the border with China, only Indian nationals are allowed to go beyond the check post with permits.

The road to bum la and shungetsar lake ( also called Madhuri Lake ) is stunning. Excellent views of the eastern himalayas and many lakes on the way, the journey to the Y junction and beyond will leave you gasping.

This is a sensitive area and taking pictures and uploading on the internet is not recommended. There are places where the army allows pictures and also let you know if you can or cannot post on social media.

The lake is one of the highest lakes in India and the world. Said to be at about 14500 ft.

It was completely frozen when we got there. For the first time I walked on a frozen lake. Cant describe the adrenaline rush that I felt.

The army runs a canteen there and the food is yum. I would recommend that you go early so that it is peaceful. Its a popular spot and gets crowded.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B7NabyilmcN/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

It was Day 5 and the 31st of December. Since it was expected to snow and there was a risk of Sela pass being closed, we decided to leave Tawang and we decided to stay in Shergaon instead of Dirang or Bomdila.

From my last trip in April, I remember hoping that some day I would come back to Shergaon. On the main Trans-Himalayan highway, this small hamlet has only 200 residents, most of whom work in the near by towns.

With Himalayas all around you, this valley is picturesque. A stream running through it and many hiking trails, its a perfect start for adventure seekers who like to hike up the hills and camp.

We stayed at the Red Berry River View home stay. A cute little place. Ms Pentang is a lovely host and she made us feel right at home .

We brought in the new year with a peaceful dinner, walk on the highway, almost spotting the milky way. It was the starriest night I have ever seen.

The next morning we walked around the Shergaon countryside and visited the monastery.

We said our goodbyes to our lovely host and drove back to Guwahati, back to the hustle and bustle of city life.

Arunachal is quite literally Heaven on Earth and I guess I am going to keep going back there.

2020 so far has been a crazy year with the pandemic and all of us being locked up at home. I hope this all ends soon and I get to see more of my amazing country. Truly Incredible India

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