"There isn't much to do in and around Bhopal" is what most people told me when I planned a trip to the lesser explored region of Madhya Pradesh. Little did I know I was entering a new world full of Nawabs and tigers. Here is how I spent 5 days in Bhopal and you could too.
Day 1
My room at Jehan Numa Palace
Swimming pool at Jehan Numa Palace
Views from my room at Jehan Numa Palace
Jehan Numa Palace
Under the Jamun Tree Special dinner at Jehan Numa Palace
We took a flight for Bhopal and reached Jehan Numa Palace in no time. As soon as I reached my room, I was greeted by a spectacular pool view and the sight of horses taking rounds in their dedicated arena. For lunch, I enjoyed my favourite cuisine - Italian at La Kuchina. Their pastas and pizzas were delicious. I then took to my room to relax and experience some me time with the book I was reading - Maktub by Paulo Coelho. By evening, I went out for a show around where I learned about the historic nature of the property as well as stories of the Nawabs who have owned the property over time. When we reached the garden, I was stunned to see the sunset with the backdrop of a flute artist playing local tunes of Bhopal.
For dinner, there was a special set up at Under the Mango Tree highlighting the cuisine of Bhopal. Most of our conversations dwelled upon "tomorrow". Since the next day we were to head to Bori Safari Lodge, popularly known for tiger sightings and 4X4 rides in the magical Satpura forest.
Day 2
Bori Safari Lodge
Bori Safari Lodge
We left in the morning for Bori Safari Lodge located around the Satpura forest. After around 2 hours of road travel away from Jehan Numa Palace in Bhopal, we finally reached Bori Safari Lodge, a luxury camp property with only 12 rooms amidst a 7.5 acre farmland estate. My room faced grasslands and came with an outdoor seating area where I could hear birds chirping. After a set menu lunch where I enjoyed the mezze platter, we headed out for a safari. The 4X4 was all ready to take us to the luscious forests of Satpura. On the way to Satpura, our rangers sighted 3 elephants, majestic. 2 babies walking with their mamma. I was eager to spot a tiger and praying we see one. We did see deers and some nilgai in the lush forests. But a tiger was nowhere to be seen. The naturalist assigned to our 4X4 was informed of a tiger spotting near the lake. We ventured in that region only to come to terms with a strong blood smell, that made us realise we were new a tiger kill. A tigress and her cubs were feeding on their kill from a few days. For the first time, I felt like I was in a region I knew little about. The thrill was high. The naturalists ensured I was comfortable. Soon after, we left the forest and went back to Bori Safari Lodge.
At the Lodge, we were treated with a private dinner setting where a campfire was lit and we looked up in the sky gazing at the stars. An intricate buffet dinner was planned, but I was sleepy by then. Post a scrumptious dinner I retired. The travel hours from Bhopal to Satpura, and those spent while exploring Satpura trying to sight a tiger allowed me to sleep peacefully.
Day 3
A tiger in the Satpura Forest / Image credit: Bori Safari Lodge
Perhaps the most exciting day of all. We gathered at 4:45 AM to start our half day safari. We were scheduled to spend over 7 hours in the forest itself. We headed towards the 4X4, with some blankets since it was cold and began our adventure. Within the first 30 minutes, we spot a tiger. He was sitting on a rock, lazing around for almost 45 minutes, putting on a show for us. We watched him in the distance with our binoculars. I was taken by the stripes and magnificent hair on the tiger. We began moving and watched a stunning sunrise over a river. Soon, my naturalist got the information that there has been another tiger sighting in not too far. Our 4X4 breezed through the forest on an adventure ride to reach that spot. And lo and behold, there was a tiger right there near the tree marking his territory. He also approached the jeep head on, making us change our course and shift. We spent almost 30 minutes watching the tiger and his movements, only to miss the tigress that was sitting right next to our 4X4. The tiger and the tigress were mating. They rubbed each others shoulders and began mating behind trees and in the bushes. We decided to give the two some privacy and headed for breakfast at a dedicated spot in the forest. The image of the tigers stayed with me. This was a lucky day. We went back to the tiger mating sighting before heading to Bori Safari Lodge.
At the Lodge, every conversation over lunch revolved around the tiger. After sighting 3 tigers and spending over 7 hours in the 4X4, I wanted a spa. The spa experience left me rejuvenated. By evening, it was time for a special sundowner that was organised for us by a river. However, it began thundering and it was time to move from there. We did enjoy samosas, sandwiches and cocktails (with mahua) by the river. The rains made us all wet however it had been an adventure. I don't have memories from dinner because I was too tired. I remember eating and sleeping.
Day 4
Jehan Numa Retreat
Jehan Numa Retreat
Despite not wanting to leave Bori Safari Lodge, it was time to go. On the way back to Bhopal, we stopped at Bhimbhetka caves housing ancient paintings on rocks. Bhimbhetka has been declared a UNESCO Heritage Site. Then, we headed to Jehan Numa Retreat, where we dined at their in house farm to table cafe - Green House Bistro. This was also the day to explore Bhopal. We saw some local places including Moti Masjid, which was actually my favourite of all. For dinner, a special experience was organised at Under the Jamun Tree, where we enjoyed a quaint candle light dinner. The highlight of the trip was the sighting of the three tigers and at no point did that fade from my memory.
Day 5
Breakfast at Jehan Numa Retreat
It was time to leave. Post breakfast - waffles, kachoris and dosas, we left for the airport and said "Goodbye Bhopal, we will come back again soon."
