The Royal Bengal - Murshidabad

The Nawabi History of Bengal is not very well known across the Country, inspite of being the centre of some of the most iconic events and political twists in the late 18th Century which led to the Colonisation of India and rise of British Imperialism in the subcontinent under East India Company after the famous Battle of Palassey ,where then Nawab of Bengal,Bihar and Odisha , Nawab Siraj-ud-Daula lost the Battle due to extreme and series of conspiracies by Jagat Seth(Rich Money Lender) , Mir Zafar(Cousin of Siraj), Omichund(A Prominent Merchant) , Maharaja Krishnachandra(King of Nadia), Rai Durlabh and others . Murshidabad formerly Makshudabad named after first Nawab of Bengal, Nawab Murshid Quli Khan is an important chapter in the history of India.

I tried to cover as much as possible in a Day, which is not enough at all. I traveled to all the Sites on Horse Cart,which is an amazing experience on its own.

Started the tour from KATHGOLA PALACE or KATHGOLA BAGANBARI which was built by Rajasthani Jain Businessmen Dhanpat Singh Dugal and Laxmipat Singh Dugal in 1873. Kathgola Palace is also the spot where Mir Jafar met the Britishers after the Nawab's Defeat in the Battle of Plassey. This Garden is a 30 acre area where Black Roses were Cultivated and now mango orchard . It is comprised of a Grand Palace , Lakes full of colorful Fishes(Since Fishes are worshiped as per Jain tradition,they are not killed rather mourned and often Funerals are arranged for dead fishes) , Jain Temple of 3 Tirthankaras -

Adinath, Paraswanath and Mahavir , A Zoo containing Birds and Fish Aquariums, A Royal Kitchen , A Dance House(Roof and Glass Walls are missing) , A Gurudev Temple ( Swetambar Sadhu they were disciple of ),A Bawli Styled Secret Tunnel(which is closed since most part of it is drowned by Ganga Water) Michelangelo Statue and Statues of Four Dugar brothers in the entrance. A glimpse of their grand lifestyle can be observed in the place.Photography is prohibited inside museums. Rs 30/- Per Head is Charged as a entry fee. Guides are also available if anyone needs to know things in detail. They charge Rs. 50/- per Group.

The Next Stop is HOUSE OF JAGAT SETH. It is now serves as a Museum with all the belongings of their family with Secret underground tunnels and chambers around. Jagat Seth Used to be the Biggest Money Lender and Banker of that time. The name Jagat Seth(Born as Fateh Chand) is a hereditary title started with his father Makinchand by Mughals who was named Nagar Seth. This -

monument is a marvelous Indo-European architecture with statues, art, water-body, marvelous furniture made of metals or Burma Teaks and various luxurious belongings. Even though a Banker they lived their life King Size. A Temple is also present inside the premises.Photography is prohibited inside museums .The Entry Fee is Rs 20/- per person. The Guides are readily available at the entrance . No need to find them they will find you . You can hire them if curious enough to know about each and every items present inside the Museum. Since it's a privately run , nothing is marked at all inside quite conveniently . Well Guides are not expensive at all though. So no harm hiring them for both their and our sake.

The destination followed next is NASHIPUR PALACE . The Majestic Indo-European Architecture used to be the centre of a cruel violent unemphatic era of Zamindari System or Tax collectors of British Imperialism under Raja Debi Singha ,The Founder of the Nashipur Raj family(However Successors of him were not as cruel as him). The 150 kg Roller made of Iron , Hanging Room and-

Private Prison(Now in Ruins) speaks loud of the horrors of his reign. They say Roller was used to roll over the Chest of the people who didn't paid taxes on time or anyone who dared to go against him. They were also hanged and threw them into the wells(got rid of it to avoid accidents) that were dug inside the hanging room. The architectural beauty of the palace is exquisite with long halls huge Pillars and series of temples all around starting from Hanuman Temple at the entrance to the famous Nava Durga Temple who is worshipped as Maa Durga Kali and Laxmi all at the same time, Temple of 33 Koti Dev Devi(or 33 Kinds of Gods and Goddesses ) Temple and many more. Walking down all those hallways gives a Royal feel. It's like walking on the Pages of Sweet and Sour History . The first floor of the palace has some amazing artworks of various kind. It's worth time taking a good glance to those for any art lover and even if not a peak to it won't harm. The entry fee is Rs 25/- per person . Guides can also be hired at reasonable price Rs 40/-. However don't mistake the guides as omniscient . He just speaks the bit he's well versed in,which is quite thorough.

The Glorious and majestic Hazarduari Palace is a real eye catcher and most famous monument which is under supervision of Archaeological Survey of India . Built under the Architect Colonel Duncan MacLeod of the Bengal Corps of Engineers by the order of Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah, is an Indo-European architecture like most of the British India monuments which reflects a marvelous fusion of Indian and Victorian era British Royalty. Museum is full of Nawab and British era pieces of various artworks of ceramics, porcelain, paintings, ivory, The Giant Chandelier(2nd Largest after Buckingham Palace) along with some beautiful objects of day to day use like Palanquin , Throne , Sedans(Palnquins looking like a Chair),Howdah(Seating arrangement of Royals to Seat on Elephant's Back) etc . Weapons of various kinds including fire arms are also well presented. The King Size Life can still be felt inside the Palace turned Museum.

The premise of the palace is accompanied with a beautiful Clock Tower and Nizamat Imambara ( which is believed to be the Largest on the World) on the opposite side of the Palace. Old Nizamat Imambara was built by Siraj-Ud-Daula in 1740 by digging and filling the Land with soils from Mecca. The current architecture was built by Nawab Mansur Ali Khan after destroyed in fire in 1842 and 1846.

The entry to the Premise is free . The ticket to Museum is Rs 25/- Per Person. The cameras are not allowed inside and should be kept in the Clock room while buying the ticket. Cellphones are also asked to switch off as well.Like all other monuments Guides are readily available and can be hired in order to know the items and history better,however all the objects are well marked inside unlike other sites .

Murshidabad is full of monuments and historical sites lying all around,which is said to be around 72. It's almost impossible to cover it in a Day even if we want to cover the main or most important ones. You must keep atleast 2-3 Days with unstoppable enthusiasm and stamina to do justice to the trip and place .

After the long Day of walking and dipping in to the history ,the exhausted souls of ours got some comfort watching sunset on the Bank of the mighty beautiful Bhagirathi River . The unmatched serenity and ointment of Nature is just the thing required.

Other Important Sites that I missed are Jafargunj Cemetry, Wasif Mahal , Khush Bag , Motijheel , Footi Masjid , Katra Masjid , Namak Haram Deori . There are many more though. These were on my bucket List .

How to Reach :- I personally love Road Trips as long as it's possible. So one of the way is to take car or cab from Kolkata . Buses are also available to Murshidabad from SBSTC Bus Terminus Dharmatala at Kolkata. It can be travelled via Train as well from Howrah and get off at Murshidabad.

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