Ladakh sits on the crown of India, humble about its ethereal beauty. For this very reason, the desert region is lovingly called 'The Last Shangri-La', a name that appropriately honours its idyllic surroundings. Wedged between Ladakh’s majestic, arid mountains is Nubra Valley, a region that is as rugged as it gets. Situated on the far end of the border, this magical and untouched land deserves your attention.
Why visit Nubra?
The grand scale scenery, brown oasis, harsh hills and freezing cold temperatures lend Nubra its other-worldly spirit. The valley, nestled between two rivers, Nubra and Shyok, is a desert that boasts of an awe-inspiring landscape. At Nubra, be prepared to be covered in at least three layers of clothing as you walk across its sandy landscape. Here, you will experience a completely different culture, one that remains concealed from the purview of the mainstream traveller. So if you're an enthusiast for experiences that are off-beat and authentic, Nubra will steal your heart.
Where to go?
Travelling to Leh from any part of the world has been made easier in recent times, thanks to the Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport, which is situated at a whopping height of 11,568 ft. One can fly down to Leh from Delhi, take a private vehicle or board a bus via Manali/Spiti.
Leh to Nubra via Khardungla
As soon as you land in Leh, it is advised to rest and take it slow for at least 48 hours. Once you are acclimatised, you can readily explore the scenic road to Nubra Valley.
The only travel option to Nubra Valley is by road via the National Highway to Khardung La. Heads up to all adventure seekers because the route to Khardung La is a challenging one. After all, it was once hailed as the world's highest motor-able road at 17,500 ft. Plunging into the Shyok Valley via Khardung Village, the views of distant hamlets and their large pastures on this drive will leave you breathless. A little further from the pass is North Pullu, serving delicious Ladakhi home-made meals, thukpa and momo, this is the perfect place for lunch before you continue to Nubra.
On approaching the valley you will be welcomed with a single deserted road with sand dunes on either side. After this stretch, the first town that you will encounter is Diskit, which is where you should stay the night.
Diskit and Hunder
The commercial hub of Nubra, Diskit is a modest yet popular village.
Travellers who wish for a little more peace and quiet can drive 10 km west of Diskit to the beautiful hamlet of Hunder. This is where you will spot the elusive double humped camels that Nubra is known for. You will see them grazing on the dune-like landscape between the foot of the mountains and the braided Shyok River. A clockwise trail leading to the hills is for those who love the heights. The sight of tourists taking a stroll on the dunes, enjoying a cup of coffee in the cosy cafes and camels trailing the gorgeous landscapes of Nubra is one that you will never forget.
Turtuk
India has borders in various states, but the most magnificent of them all are the ones located in the Himalayas. One such border village is Turtuk, which was only recently opened to tourists. The village is situated on the stretch of Shyok Valley which descends gradually towards Pakistan. 90 km from Hunder, Turtuk makes for a fine day-trip. Witness the imperceptible change in the culture as you move from Buddhist valleys of Hunder to the borders of Turtuk.
Travel tips
Transport:
Regular and AC buses run to and fro the Leh-Nubra route on a daily basis. Buses to/from Leh connect Diskit (and occasionally Turtuk). For Rs 400 you can travel from Leh to Diskit. Once in Nubra, you can hail easily available taxis to further explore the region. Please note that prices in the Ladakh region are mostly fixed, hence there is little room for negotiation.
Permits:
All Indian and foreign nationals require a Protected Area Permit (PAP) to visit Nubra Valley. You can apply for this permit either in person at the District Commissioner’s Office in Leh or via an authorised travel agent. The permits will be verified before entering Khardungla. Visitors should carry multiple copies of their PAP for Nubra’s various checkpoints.
Accommodation:
A number of hotels, home stays, resorts and tented accommodations are available in Diskit and Hunder. You can check out the camping sights which start at Rs 2,000 or guest houses that are priced Rs 1,500 and above. Prices are negotiable depending on the season.
Best time to visit:
Nubra is completely cut off during the winter months. As Khardungla becomes inaccessible, there is no other way to reach Nubra. Once the pass is opened in May, tourists are allowed to travel. May to September is a perfectly good time to visit Nubra as it has sunny mornings and chilly nights.
Nubra Valley is a heaven on earth that must be on your list. It is a place that will only leave you longing for more, a route you will want to traverse over and over again. Now that you have the brief itinerary ready, go ahead and pack those bags!
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