KEDARNATH: AT THE HEART OF SHIVA

Every journey needs some planning but there are some journeys which are planned by destiny . Kedarnath Temple situated at an height of 11,000ft above sea level is an unforgettable and most beautiful experience on its own. Before I began this Kedarnath journey let me tell you how we made up to the heart of Shiva.

For two years everyone's life was at stake due to the Pandemic and the best place to travel at this time was by being at home. We all know and have experienced that Pandemic have totally changed the scenario of our lives.

I was planning for trip to Khajuraho before the year ends and made the Itinernary respectively. Pandemic is still there and so I thought of visiting this place has the vaccination rate here was more 90 percent with very less population. But somehow I just went on delaying my bookings due to some or the other work. At this time it was raining almost all over India and Uttarakhand has flood situations around. Everyone is aware about the flood incident in June 2013 which had an devastating situation at Kedarnath. Many lost their lives and this incident changed the whole Kedarnath.

Kedarnath is not a place it an emotion to those who truly worship Lord Shiva. While I was watching the news about flood outbreak in Uttarakhand I just asked my parents about whether I can visit Kedarnath. Well this was undoubtedly a bad timing to ask for. But luckily my parents said if the situation is under control you can. One should not expect situation out of danger because you are travelling in the mountains. I was worried all this will workout as it was raining cats and dogs continuously for 3 days until it finally stopped on 22 October 2021 and I had a ray of Hope. I started my preps for travelling to Kedarnath. Also my graduation college friend and my sisters were onboard with me. As it was last moment booking we didn't go confirm tickets but a day before we Enroute we got Rajdhani special for Delhi and we rescheduled our tickets.

Finally 24 of October 2021 was the day we left for Delhi. We boarded our train in the evening at 17:10 hrs and reached Delhi on 25th morning at 9:43. As we reached Delhi we headed to ISBT Bus Station for further journey. One must reach the nearest bus point from where you can get buses to ISBT. Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station (Delhi Station) to Local bus stop is just 300 metres off walking distance. Local bus takes approx. 15 to 20min depending upon traffic. As we reached ISBT we enquired about a bus to Gaurikund but then we got to know there are no direct buses post 9:00 am. There were two options now: either wait for the night bus which leaves from ISBT to Gaurikund at 9:00pm and reach till 11:00am or head to Haridwar. But instead of waiting for so long we decided to head towards Haridwar.

Haridwar and Rishikesh are the two major connecting routes to Kedarnath. Soon we booked our bus to Haridwar. There are A/C and non A/C buses running by Uttarakhand State Transport. We booked an A/C bus which costed us 625 ₹ per person. We had a quick snack and boarded our bus. Delhi to Haridwar is 5 and a half hours journey.

It was a relaxing journey as the bus was semi-sleeper. By 5:30pm we were at Haridwar. Then we took tuk-tuk ( auto ) and asked the auto rider to help us find a good lodge. We found one, Hotel Chitra Heritage. Decent ambience and good rooms. We paid 1800 for 2 rooms which was fair enough.

We freshen up quickly as we wanted to visit Ganga ghat for Aarti. But still we got blessings off aarti while we where heading towards Har ki Pauri. It was such a peaceful feeling to have witnessed this. Spirituality is the most important factor or I would say a habit every individual should gain. It was the very first time I had been to Haridwar so I made sure to spend some good self time exploring this land of Gods (Devbhoomi).

Offered my prayers to Maa Ganga at Ganga Ghat. At such places the aura around you is so positive and powerful and that feeling is only to be felt. I have always been more on the spiritual side and trust me that helps you always in your journey whether a tour or your life.

Visited few small temples at the Ghat. It was such a divine experience here. Also did a small puja at the ghat where we offered some flowers and a diya to Ganga maa. Spent some time clicking pictures and making videos for my YouTube channel. Do check my Haridwar vlog here.

Later we had our dinner at the famous Chotiwala Restaurant which Is situated at the entrance of Haridwar ghat gate. Food here is really mouth smacking. Khoya Panner and Dal Makhani must have dish. Enjoyed our dinner by the ghats and started heading towards hotels. My sister was craving to have Kulhad Milk so we visited this place 'Arti Sweets'.

This is opposite Haridwar station and a 2 min walking distance from Hotel Chitra Heritage. Well,I have a sweet-tooth and watching garam garam Jalebi and Rabri I just couldn't resist. Order a rabdi bowl for me and oh my god ! how delicious it was. You can watch my live reaction in the above video. We then went back to our rooms and started packing bags as the main journey was about to start on the next day i.e. 26 October.

It was 4:00am, climate was pretty cool. Got freshen up and headed towards our bus stop. You get a normal ST kind of bus from Haridwar to Gaurikund. There are no deluxe buses which run on this route. It cost us 600 ₹ per person which may vary according to the season. We had been in October so it was the closing season.

Our bus left at 5:00am and the journey towards entering the DevBhoomi started. As we started approaching higher altitudes, the landscapes were breath-taking. Extensive Mountain ranges and foggy weather all the way.

Our bus left at 5:00am and the journey towards entering the DevBhoomi started. As we started approaching higher altitudes, the landscapes were breath-taking. Extensive Mountain ranges and foggy weather all the way.

Enjoying such beautiful views and making our way from such foggy roads was such an amazing experience. Soon our bus took a halt at the cafes on the way and we enjoyed yummy parathas and Maggie. Pahado mein aakar Maggie nahi khayi toh kya Maja kiya.

As we headed further we started getting the glimpse of Himalayan ranges. What a feeling it was ! I have been waiting to see snow-clad mountains and trust me the first glimpse literally gave me goosebumps. Himalayas, I wholeheartedly adore you.

Continued our journey further to Gaurikund. I was extremely excited and energetic to reach Kedarnath and experience the power of majestic Lord Shiva's Abode. By 11:30 we were at Gaurikund. The bus drops us at Sonprayag which is the last hault. From here you have to walk some distance and take a local sharing jeep which will drop you to Gaurikund. Each individual cost was 30 ₹. Rates may vary according to the season. As we reached Gaurikund, the feeling here was unexplainable. With the Mandakini River flowing on the right with hotels and lodges on the left and the trekking route In between.

We booked our stay first which cost us 2650₹ for 2 rooms, rates were high because it was peak season. We then took some rest and later came down to the cafe to have lunch.

Again the food we had here was too delicious. I will mention down all the contacts of places where I stayed and had food. We had ordered fried rice, paneer handi and roti. Such amazing food at such an altitude was truly appreciable. If you ever visit this place do eat here and thank me later.

An evening just before we start our trek the next day I.e. on 27 October. Spent some wonderful time on the river bank photographing nature. Never felt so calm before.

Such a lovely evening it was and I still feel this as a dream. Every Photograph here reminds me of this time and makes me nostalgic.

Next day morning i.e. on 27 October at first we went to Gaurikund which is the hot water and before you head to trek taking a bath here is considered sacred. It was freaking cold and unimaginable to even bathe in open air at-4 degree temperature besides Mandakini River. But you know what is the best part, as soon as I took a mug of hot water on my body started feeling very energetic beating such temperatures. Got freshen up and came back to our room.

We then repacked our bags where only the needful things were carried and rest everything was left at the hotel stay lockers. At 6:45 we left our rooms and had some coffee.

By 7am sharp we finally started approaching Kedarnath Temple which is at an height of 11,000ft asl.

One thing was very clear in mind no matter whatever happens I am going to trek the whole route without a Khachar or Pitthu. Khachar is a mix bread of donkey and horse and pithu are the people who carry you on their back in a basket made out of Kane and trek you till the top. And believe it or not they do this 3 to 4 times a day, now imagine we walking only with our luggage takes more than 7 hours and pitthu doing it so many times. Huge respect towards their hard working and living.

Initially it was too crowded as there were many trekkers heading for Kedarnath. As I gazed around I was amazed to see the beauty of Kedar Ghati or Kedar Valley. River which forms from the melting glaciers at the top making its way through the valley, it was so striking to see this.

Feeling the vibe ? Words fall short to explain this beautiful valley, indeed heaven. Well, this is just the start and I was so mesmerised to experience this. I always wanted to live a life like this, yes they are challenges but that's the beauty of life. Grow through what you go through.

ou will find exceptional views no matter wherever you gaze around. Crystal clear blue water flowing down the lane making its way through Kedar Valley, what a sight ! Photographing nature landscapes is one of my best things to do. I can find my soul and creativity in every picture I take and that's why I say Meraki.

Earlier this trek was off 16kms but after June 2013 floods, the older route got damaged and a new route was constructed which makes this trek a 23kms route. There are still a few shortcuts which you can take through mountains, provided you have good pair of trekking shoes and skills to take those routes.

We took multiple halts while trekking like everyone else and that was obvious. Most of the time I had plenty of water, nimbu pani and chocolates. This kept us going with ease. You will see signboards after every few kms. Just after half a km this photo was taken.

Khachar resting in between also makes an interesting sight. You just have to be a good observer. Making Kedarnath accessible to everyone coming to it in all possible ways, by trekking, by helicopter, by Pitthu, by Khachar. Making such impossible things possible at 11,000ft is an extraordinary task. Let us all truly and genuinely respect this.

Kedarnath was the best trip I had till date. Every opportunity I got at this trip, made worth out of it. Climate in the mountains keeps changing very frequently. So many different shades, though all mountains are of the same colour. That's the beauty of nature, it is so remarkable.

At this point we had completed 3 kms of trek and took a small break to munch. 20kms more to go and we were back on track again.

At some point the route gets stepper while at some it is flat. Make sure not to rush at all, also a very important piece of advice. Do carry some camphor in a small bottle, because at high altitudes if you face any breathing issues, inhaling camphor helps you in easy breathing and keeping you calm.

The most beautiful thing I noticed in this trip is you meet new people, may be your hotel staff, fellow trekkers, etc to get that trust with someone even if you are meeting them for the first time. I think a place which is so sacred, here a negative thought never crossed your mind. Everything around you seems to be lively and positive.

We next took our big halt and Bheembali where we had maggie and some coffee. A short refreshing break in the lap of Kedar Valley. Continuing our Journey hereafter we reached Rambara Bridge. June 2013 floods had caused havoc in Kedarnath and Rambara bridge got totally washed away. A new bridge has been constructed on the river which is accessible only for trekkers.

Halted here at Rambara for a while and captured some amazing pictures which now are the most beautiful memories. Here one can literally feel the force of water and imagine what could have happened at the time of floods which led to this bridge destruction.

After Rambara we started approaching further journeys. We made it to Choti Lincholi or small Lincholi and suddenly it started snowing heavily. Sub zero temperatures with snow all around, a view to die for. Witnessing snow in the mountains is altogether a different experience. I was extremely delighted to have lived this at this very moment.We then waited inside a cafe. Further I went on searching for my Pitthu who was carrying my bag, found him and collected my bag. As it was not recommended to go further due to heavy snowfall. If you ever visit Kedarnath or any other high altitude place always be prepared. Climate in the mountains is unpredictable. We waited inside the cafe for almost an 1 hour, surprisingly we had a ray of hope when we saw the climate getting clear. We were worried because there were no staying options up here, it was just a tent-like thing at the edge of a mountain.

What a spectacular view to watch these mountains covered in fog and snow on the peaks. I feel lucky enough to have experienced all this in my life. For a reason Uttarakhand is called DevBhoomi (Land of God) and its indeed for real.

As we started heading towards Big Lincholi the sunset was about to set and we witnessed magnificent sunset over the snow-clad mountains. Those golden rays hitting the peaks created a magic at the top. The most beautiful things in life are always felt. Every step you take here has a surprise for you which keeps you moving forward. After this each of us decided to walk as per their convenience and the one who reached should book a room near mandir. By this time I had reached Big Lincholi was having tea. I saw my college friend adi coming backwards and I waved at him and asked him where he was. He said he was almost there at the temple just a km away but as our call was not reachable he came back to locate us. He was not wearing an adequate amount of clothes which could protect him in this extreme terrain at-4 degrees. I had already aware him to wear proper clothes before the trek starts.

At this moment I saw my sisters going through Khachar and I waved at them but they dint stop and continued. After an hour I received a call from one of my sister saying its extremely cold here, we are not able to find rooms and they were afraid surrounded by snow mountains from around. I advised them to get back down at GMVN anyhow. This was the most extreme experiences I had till date as the temperature by now was-6 degree and it was bone chilling cold. Still I managed to sit outside the hotel waiting for them.

Till then I booked a cottage for us and decided to stay here at Big Lincholi on 27 because my friend as well as my sister both were not feeling well. Next day morning three of them decided to take a Khachar but I had already planned no matter what I would complete this trek by walking. Morning here in Lincholi was one of its kind, surrounded by Stunning gigantic snow mountains, what an incredible view It was !

From Big Lincholi to Kedarnath Temple, its 5kms, I started trekking while my co-travellers hired a khachar for them. The higher you go the route becomes steep and in sub zero temperatures it becomes a bit difficult to walk continuously. I took multiple small stops after every half km. I was 2 km away now from the base camp. I decided to take a shortcut through the mountains. Going through the muddy route, it was a bit slippery. There came a point where I was frightened and sat there on a rock for sometime. Later an uncle passing by asked me whether I needed help, I handed my camera to him and started moving upwards.Uncle advised me not to look down just keep moving and finally made it to the base camp. Sat there with this uncle and his family, also clicked their family picture which later I mailed them.

I was just lost in this beauty of nature, every small thing here was a jewel. From here you get the first glimpse of Kedarnath Mandir. From here the mandir is just a km away. 28th October it was 11am and I had just made it to temple. It was such an emotional moment for me to make it here till top. I broke down watching this beautiful temple surrounded by Himalayan range. Thanking Lord Shiva for making all possible ways to make me witness this beauty of this Empire at 11,000ft asl.

Recorded my live reaction here which you will be able to see in my Kedarnath Vlog series. Then we went on to search for rooms, and we got one exactly opposite the temple. Due to peak season it cost us 5000 ₹ for a room with 4 beds. Ideally it is upto 1200 to 2000.

Kept my luggage inside, unpacked all my camera gear and headed straight out to capture the beauty of this magnificent empire of Lord Shiva from all possible angles. It was indeed a dream come true to be at this place. Kedarnath is an emotion, a divine power which attracts you. Witnessed an exceptional sunset that evening.

Indeed a treat for eyes to watch this fiery sunset, I wish I could stay here forever. Post sunset at 7:30pm everyone gathered at the temple front for Aarti. Kedarnath Aarti has such a powerful spiritual vibe, everyone chanting Har Har Mahadev, temples bells ringing. Such a satisfying feeling it was. Temple at night is lit up with colourful led lights which makes it look surreal.

Post sunset we had the pleasure of witnessing Aarti, it is such a blissful experience to have been here. Surrounded by Himalayan ranges,11,000ft asl at the Heart of Lord Shiva. It is absolutely stunning. After Aarti we had our dinner and went back to our rooms. Later after 9pm I came back near the temple to spend some time roaming around the temple. It is one of a kind experience. he Shilla (Rock) which saved the temple from the flood disaster in 2013 is on the back side of the temple. It is indeed a great spiritual power which prevented the temple from causing damange.

Next day morning, which is on 29 October, woke up at 6:00am, got freshen up and headed straight to capture the sunrise at Kedarnath Hills. Witnessing Sunrise at Kedarnath Mountains is such a mystical experience. At 7:00am first light hits the Peak and what a dramatic aura it was. Every time I look at these pictures, I can feel the vibe here standing still with my tripod and two cameras at-6 degrees and capturing this magic.

Slowly as the light starts spreading over the Mountain ranges it makes them look so beautiful. I have framed this at my home office, it has added charm to my work place. Later we went inside the shrine for Darshan of Lord KedarBaba. As we know the story that Kedarnath Temple was built originally by Pandavas and Later in later the glory of its shrine was restored by Adi Shankaracharya in 8th Century A.D. As you enter the temple there are statues of Pandavas and Nandi Statue inside the temple as well. When you enter the main shrine there's a huge shivling rock which itself is KedarBaba at Kedarnath Mandir. I did my pooja here by offering Water at first and then applied Bhasma. Then offered a Bell Patra which is Shiv ji's favourite.I spent almost 20min inside and those 20min will be the best and most unforgettable minutes of my life.

Everything was worth It, taking all the challenges, experiencing the beauty of Kedar Valley, spending time at the mountains. All these moments are for a lifetime and obviously a dream come true.

Next, me and my college friend decided to visit Bhairav Mandir which just a km above Kedarnath Temple. It is a must visit if you are coming to Kedarnath. Bhairav Mandir is considered as the protector of Lord Shiv ( KedarBaba). You will get a spectacular view of Majestic Himalayan Peaks from the top as well as Aerial view of Kedarnath Mandir which is awe-spiring.

Kedarnath Temple as seen from the top of Bhairav Mandir, the hospitality here after 2013 floods is admirable. Thanks to our respected prime minister Shree. Narendra Modi for reconstructing this place and giving back its glory.

Later we started descending from Bhairav Mandir, before we started heading back to Gaurikund, took one last darshan of Kedarnath Mandir. Didn't feel like leaving from here, Lord examines you each moment but when he offers you something it is the greatest thing of life. Feel very grateful that I made it to Kedarnath in this life.

My siblings were not keeping well and they suggested we get an Helicopter for going back. We Waited in a queue for getting our tickets, it took us more than 5 hours, but god had some other plans. At 5:30 last helicopter flew back and by the time our number arrived there were no tickets. We then decided to stay back again at Kedarnath Helipad Dormitory.

My co-travellers were worried due to extreme temperatures, but indirectly I was so happy to stay again back for the third day at Kedarnath. It seemed like Lord Shiv himself wanted us to stay back again and enjoy the view in the arms of nature for one more time. As we decided that we should stay back, we booked our dorms. I then headed outside, it was extremely cold outside. There was sudden drop in temperature and soon there was zero visibility. It was the time to witness the most magical part of the mountain now which is sunset. Enjoyed sipping my tea at this very moment.

Take a bow at this serendipity. What an incredible view it was.

It was an evening to cherish for a lifetime. Back to our dorms, as next day we had to get by 4am to get our tickets. Next day at 4am with-4 degrees, damn that was the moment. Unaware of when our turn would come, I was living each little moment at ist best. Met many new people from different states of India, by this time it was 12pm.

My mom had given me Dink Ladoo which I shared with people I met in the queue. First strangers and by now they were friends, such friendships are blessings. It was 3pm and we decided to have lunch, so my siblings were in the queue while I went to have my lunch. Got my plate and while I was about to have my first bite I got a call from my sibling that we are getting tickets, I ran down to the Helipad and finally got our tickets. Then our luggage was weighed and we were given seat occupancies according to our body weights.

And here we go, within the next ten minutes we're back to Sonprayag Phata. The very first thing we did was visited a cafe nearby. So many beautiful efforts to reach the top, spend 3 most memorable and wonderful days of my life here. Relive those moments over some delicious pizza and cup of tea. What an ultimate satisfaction it was to have made it here in Uttarakhand at Kedarnath. It was 29 October today as we were back to Gaurikund. It was our last night at Gaurikund here as next day we were leaving back to Delhi. Next day morning We had our breakfast at our favourite cafe which I had mentioned at the start of the blog.

At 6:00am on 30 October we left from Kedarnath to Rishikesh. Within the next 5 and half hours we were in Rishikesh and later took a bus to Delhi. We thought we could catch the train tonight i.e. on 1st of November, but the bus took so long that we reached Delhi at 10:00pm. I had booked a room in Delhi Zostel for that night. For those who don't know what zostel is I will share a link below.

We booked our train for the 1st of November. Ss the train was at evening, we started our breakfast by having a famous Samosa Chaat and garam Gulab jamun at a nearby food centre.On 1nov morning we explored nearby parts of Delhi Agrasen ki Baoli, India Gate, etc to name a few. Agrasen ki Baoli is a place where Bollywood's famous movie P.K. starring Aamir Khan was shot.

After this we spent some time at a cafe and went back to zostel. We then left for Delhi station as we had our train at 4:55pm. Finally here we left, carrying back all those wonderful moments for a lifetime. I will never be able to get over this magical trip of my life. For me Kedarnath is not a place, it is and always will be an emotion. By 9:30am on 2nd November we were back at our home, it was the first day of Diwali.

HAR HAR MAHADEV | KEDARNATH BABA KI JAY

If you have read this blog till now, I am thankful to you from the bottom of my heart for keeping patience and making some time here for me. I hope this blog might have helped you in some or the other form.

Until then MerakiTrails signed off. Let the Journey within you begin.