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My story like every heart break story is cliqued with bombastic grief, ridiculous heartbreak, heightened emotion and finally an exaggerated self-discovery. But it is what it is. It is my life’s story where I felt that my heartbreak was the biggest tragedy that could hit this world. Bigger than a beggar’s hungry stomach and bigger than a dying man’s unfulfilled wishes. Four years into a committed relationship, my boyfriend and I had the same fate as most college loves do. What followed was shitloads of drama from my side and ruthlessness from his. From shouting on to each other and blaming each other for things that didn’t matter; I, ruining my studies and work; to skipping food for days consecutively; badmouthing my ex although he suffered equally: I did it all. All this continued for a few months and beyond a point it got so maddening that I thought I’ll drop out of my studies because I felt no motivation to carry on with my life. Love or loving life, were a far-fetched dream and to bare it all in this article, I did have the darkest thoughts of giving up on my existence at that time.
On one such day of insanity, when talking to someone felt imperative but I also knew that most my friends were already sick of my constant break up lamenting, I downloaded this application, Tinder. Now, that I’ve mentioned a company’s name, my story may seem like an extended advertisement but it’s far from that, it’s just an earnest memoir. So, I right swiped a few men and one of them, named Ray, lived two kilometers away and he messaged instantly. I got to know that he lived in the same building as my friend, Ishie and they were friends. To take my mind off, I talked and joked about myriad things and thankfully he had a brilliant sense of humor. The night passed talking about politics and different cuisines that we both enjoyed.
We continued talking for a week and not even once did the conversation turn creepy or indecent. Ray seemed like a wonderful guy who gave me my space and never tried to intrude on my privacy. Shortly thereafter, he spoke to Ishie and invited us to his place for dinner. Had this invitation been a solo one, I would never have considered it but he had graciously made sure that I’m comfortable with a friend around and so I went to dine at this almost stranger’s place.
On such occasions, usually a round of drinks are followed by tipsy talks over dinner.
I had come famished to their place and was wondering if I’ll have to quell my hunger for the next few hours while they booze around. But then unapologetically, when they were about to begin their first round of drinks, I said, “Hey, is there anything to eat? I’m a bit hungry.”
Expecting an eye roll and a disinterested denial, I kept my head low, faintly trying to gauge the reaction on Ray’s face. His eyes lit up and he said, “Sure! What do you want to eat? Shall I make you a parantha?”
All my sullen attitude and feeling of estrangement went out of the window at that question and I beamed a full smile at him, signalling a “Yes, please!”
So while I hopped around happy after my stomach was full, Ray, his roommate, and Ishie had their round of drinks. After a few hours when his roommate retired to his room and Ishie passed out, we sat and talked for nearly three hours. In those three hours, I told him tit bits of my story, how I’m nursing my broken heart and why I was on Tinder the night I spoke to him first. From his side, he spoke of the adventure trips that he planned to take and asked me to accompany him for one.
“Spiti Valley, it’s beautiful, why don’t you come for it with us?”
Thinking it’s just a polite question and not a serious one, I smiled and said “Sure, I will,” without thinking twice about what was about to happen.
I came back home the following morning, texted him a thank you note and forgot all about the night. A few months passed and I immersed myself back to the grief of my ex who kept coming and going from my life. I again went crazy trying to make the broken shards whole again. It seemed like a never ending loop to me and I did think that it’ll be my ruin. I would end up sabotaging my health, career and everything else to make a dysfunctional relationship work.
Another terribly lonely night came and dark thoughts, as always on such nights, loomed large. I could see neither my future nor happiness anywhere possible. Home seemed like the most dreary place to be in, parents seemed like unsympathetic jailers and career like a Sisyphean rock which kept pulling me down.
I was involuntarily staring at my phone screen expecting a message from my ex, when Ray texted, after a whole month and the message read “Hey! Spiti is on, right?”
What I had expected to be a polite question was a genuine offer and now the ball was in my court. I had a lot of considerations to make. This trip was in a fortnight’s time, with two barely known men, on a bike and that too to one of the toughest terrains in India. Was I prepared for it and would my friends or family approve?
A single woman here in India, I’d be maligned for being too forward just in case things turned south. Then there was this lurking fear about the integrity of men I had to go out with. The ongoing news and general culture breeds so much of mistrust that I could almost imagine myself being harassed by either of these two men.
After gulping a glass of water, I dismissed most of my fears as hypothetical and understood that there was nothing really hindering me from going on this trip. I had read all the feminism in my classrooms and it was a shame that I was thinking so much about being ‘ladylike’. All the social expectations which I was holding on to, were actually doing me no good in this time of distress. Then from nowhere, I made up my mind that I’ll go to Spiti with these men. I’ll go, BREATHE it out and escape all the darkness that surrounded my life here.
And, within a week, I found myself eating well, trying to buffer up for the tough ride that lay ahead and on the final day, packed the warmest clothes available in my wardrobe and took a giant leap of faith in trusting Ray, his roomie and myself.
The journey began from Delhi on two bikes, I had to adjust myself on the two wheeler and also hold on to a lot of luggage because the carrier didn’t hold it enough. From the moment the ignition of the bike was turned on, I felt an onrush on anticipation of a new beginning. This was the feeling that had been missing for so long and I’d been feeling rotten all this time. I found all of the negativity going away.
From Delhi to Shimla, I somehow held my bums together, flattened by constant sitting on the bike and the challenge of it made me forget all my dark thoughts that loomed large just a day before. The struggle here was always to keep myself warm, to sooth my butts, to relieve myself at clean petrol pump washrooms and to keep the stomach full on tight budget. These men, contrary to what I had expected, weren’t flirting with me at all, rather, they made me one of their pack.
I’ll just provide a brief itinerary of my Spiti trip here:
Day 1: Narkanda
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We stayed here for a night at the cheapest available home-stay. The temperature was freezing and our clothes were wet because we got drenched in rain while riding. The hotel served the most pathetic food and all of us slept on empty stomachs, unaware of our surroundings, we slept like a log. Exhausted from the long journey we had had from Delhi and a long journey that lay ahead to Spiti. Before going to sleep, I did wonder, what havoc I had cast on myself by coming to this Herculean journey.
Day 2: Kalpa
Starting our day early morning, we left, packed in warmest of our clothes for Kalpa. It was to be a back breaking ride of 178 kms and we rode NON-STOP. We passed by the most lush-blush apple orchards and warm Himachal people who gazed at us in awe. The people were kind and courteous, waving us goodbye and wishing us well as we rode past them. Finally around late evening, we stopped by at a guest house whose kitchen spilt the aroma of chicken on the road that we were passing by. Upon asking if there was food and shelter available here, the host happily asked us to join in for dinner and stay. We ate as if we had never tasted chicken before and I’m sure the owner wondered if we were gluttons. We again slept like dead logs just that unlike them, we all probably shivered at night.
Day 3: Nako
The morning I woke up, I felt damp and realized that I was on my periods. A 100 kms plus journey lay ahead and I was with men who seemed blissfully unaware that I was of the opposite gender. I didn’t want to be a spoil sport so I popped a painkiller and prayed to god to let me bear all the bumpy ride that lay ahead. On road, I realized, the challenge was not the terrain but the weather, it kept getting colder and I felt wooden. The surroundings although beautiful, were initially lost on me and this day was passed by Ray riding the bike and me leaning on to his shoulder to rest my head and bare the cold breeze. Stopping by before sun set, we retired at a home-stay that faced the Nako Lake. The view here was surreal and I forgot the day’s ordeal entirely.
At night electricity was cut off and I saw the whole Milky Way light up before my eyes. It can’t be said in any other way, but at that moment, I was most thankful to be alive.
Day4: Kibber
Our next destination was Kibber because we were told that it’s the highest village in the world connected with a motor-able road. The road from Kaza to Kibber is gorgeously barren. Jutting rocks can be seen throughout the route but the local people, like the one below, make sure that the journey is always worthwhile.
Destiny however, wanted to play games and after doing an uphill bike ride of around 130 kms, we were told that the title of the highest village had now been passed on to Komic and Kibber came in second. Although feeling stupid at our outdated facts, we consoled ourselves with banana pancakes that our host at Norling homestay fed us, graciously. We had no petrol to carry on to Kibber which lay 35 kms uphill and then a journey of going back to Kaza, because that’s the only place which had a petrol pump in a 100 km radius. So we almost gave up on our dream of visiting Komic and looked at each other dejected. Just then, looking at our gloomy faces, a few fellow travelers we had just met in our home-stay offered us their stored fuel.
The generosity and kind heartedness of people here is mind-blowing.
Day 5: Kaza
We visited Komic, the highest motor-able village in the world at 4587 meters above the sea level.
The journey was everything worth the effort. Spiti River flew right below us and the water was always freezing cold. Despite the dropping temperatures, the soul never felt a chill because the people around were the warmest I have ever known.
From Delhi-Shimla-Narkanda-Kaza-Kibber-Komic-Rohtang-Manali and back to Delhi, this round the place road trip of more than 1800 kilometers left the three of us exhilarating. A special thing about this trip was my lack of interest in dressing up or even attempting to look pretty. We stopped by at the most humble tea-stalls, places where the old ‘protected’ me would never dare to stop for refreshments. Tiny shacks that served sweet tea with slightly stale biscuits became our stop every two hours or so where we straightened our limbs.
I can go on and on about the Spiti trip but I shall summarize now.
A week before Spiti, I had thought that my life was worthless and wasn’t worth living for. This thought reverberated in my head when I gazed at the kesar clad mountains in Chandrataal Valley. I looked at little brooks that spiked across mountains and little flowers that grew along the edges of these tiny brooks. Entire waterfalls lay ahead of us, cutting and flooding roads that we had to ride on. Horses and sheep went past us just as people pass us by in metro stations of Delhi. While I looked on at all this, I wondered why I had thought of giving up on life. It had so much to offer! So much to be grateful and thankful for.
Coming back from Spiti, I had a different glint in my eye, I was smiling again and I had made friends whom I knew would stick by me whenever I needed them. More than that, I had found myself, I had rescued myself from my inner demons, I had broken the shackles of the society that constantly pulled me down and beyond everything, my heart was full of gratitude and my trust in people and life was renewed.
I’ll thank that little stroke of coincidence in my life that transformed the cacophony of my life into a beautiful symphony.
End Note
“Nature never did betray the heart that loved her.” ~W. Wordsworth
P.S. This article would be incomplete without mentioning again the generosity of the Himachal people and the bravery of the Indian army. In that biting cold and tough terrain, they make the journey for travelers like us worthwhile and safe. As I always say, it’s not about the place but about the people, the journey and love.
A few more pictures that I hold dear from the trip. :)
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