In the land of Ruskin Bond

“If we liked noise we wouldn’t live here. If you like noise, you shouldn’t be here”, says a wooden board on a Deodar tree in Landour. True to the writing, the only sounds one can hear while loitering on the cobbled pathways of the small town is the rustling of dead leaves, the whistling of soothing mountain air and one’s very own footsteps. The harmony between the trees and the mountains seems magical. Home to one of the greatest Indian authors, Ruskin Bond, who lives there with his adopted family, it is not difficult to fathom as to why the enigmatic writer chose Landour as his home. Other notable personalities like Victor Banerjee, Tom Alter and Vishal Bharadwaj also fell in love with this bucolic settlement and call it their second home.

This is unique only to Landour and some parts of Switzerland. The sun drops behind a false grey coloured horizon with a bright line of yellow and orange colors at its upper end. Due to refraction of sunlight at a particular conducive angle at a few places in the World, this phenomenon is witnessed, especially from mountainous regions.

Chaar Dukaan

The only place in Landour where one can hear a bit of chatter. Contrary to the name, there are 5-6 shops neatly stacked alongside each other with sit down area in front of almost all of them. It is a cozy marketplace with delightful options for food and beverage. Chocolate Waffles, Bun Maska, Bread Omlette, Banana Pancake with Nutella topping and Honey Lemon Ginger Tea are the most sought after offerings here. Anil’s Café (estd.1920’s), Tip Top Tea Shop and the newly opened Café Ivy are the pick of the shops.

Lal Tibba

Tibba in local language refers to a high point or peak. A brightly colored red building offers the best vantage point in Landour to watch the famous and pious Himalayan peaks of Badrinath, Kedarnath and Banderpunch.

The largest church in town was established in 1903 and doubled up as a Language School for the British. The church is named after Dr. Samuel H. Kellogg, an American missionary had written a book on Hindi grammar in English. With shades of gothic architecture and typical glass stained windows, it is one of the most famous landmarks in town.

Unknown to many, Landour is still the hub of secondary education for many young Americans. One will be surprised to hear a few of them speaking fluent Hindi. Many of them on exchange programs or on gap years come to Landour to learn the country’s national language in Landour Language School (now behind the Church). This practice of understanding the local language started way back in the mid-19th century when Christian Missionaries came here. The famous Woodstock School was founded in 1854 for the children of such missionaries.

Sister’s Bazaar

Landour was a military sanatorium. With Indians being kept off limits at Mussorie, it used to be the exclusive territory of the British. The nurses working at the sanatorium had their barracks near the market and used to frequent this place often and hence the name Sister’s Bazaar.

Jabarkhet Nature Reserve

It is one of the first private forests of the country which works towards environmental sustainability in association with the Forest Department. Just 5 kms from Landour on the Mussorie-Dhanaulti Road, Jabarkhet is a mix of tall Pines, Oak and Rhododendron forests. With over 100 species of birds and 300 types of flowers, it’s a paradise for Avian enthusiasts and Anthologists.

The Mudcup Cafe

Modern yet unpretentious, cramped yet cozy - this sums up the description for this newly opened café in Landour (est. 2015). The interior is planned aesthetically. Specific seats near the window, a casual sit down area in the terrace and spacious rooms with floor cushions and low rise tables make it the perfect place to hangout. Caramel Coffee, Magic Bar, Fudgy Chocolate Brownie with Walnuts and Apple Strudel are the famous items here. The crowd is mostly European and American. Just a few meters from the end of Landour Bazaar, the café also offers board games, cards and books to go along with your order. The wonderful ambiance and food is complemented perfectly by the courteous staff.

The affinity for a place grows stronger if you cycle or walk around it. The cemented paths, the magnificent views, the beautiful bungalows, the blissful solitude, the towering trees and the crisp mountain air give a profound insight into the deep raw harmony we share with nature. Landour grows on you eventually.