a Trek in Parvati Valley I Guarantee That You Havent Heard Yet

8:30 pm 7th March 2018, Bangalore - As I was closing one of the workdays at my first company, something wasn't feeling best. The walls of the office building had started to choke me within the first year of my job. Those skyscrapers and city lights felt disturbing to my eyes.

5:15 pm 10th March 2018, Delhi - It didn't take much time to decide whether to leave or not. But while I stood outside a Gurudwara in Delhi near Majnu ka Tila, I was clueless about where to head. I walked into a private bus agency and asked about the next departing bus. He directed one difficult question to me before replying, 'Madam bus toh bahut hai lekin Jana Kahan hai aapko?'

I replied hesitantly, 'Pata nahi' (to myself). 'Himachal ki kitne baje hai?' (to him)

'Agli bus hai 6:30 baje'

Bhuntar

A strange unsettled nostalgia struck me as I got down at the bus stop in Bhuntar. I couldn't see much change in the place except that winter wasn't great this time. But staring back at 2018, I couldn't fathom the transition my personality has gone through.

March isn't a suitable month to trek in the valley as most parts remain engulfed under a thick snow belt. Yet secretly, it is the best season to explore the unexplored.

Parvati Valley

11th March 2021, Dharamshala - 3 years later, as I am packing my bag to leave again to the same place, I hastily scroll through my social media account. Little did I know I was traveling to Parvati Valley on the night of Mahashivratri. The excitement was tangible.

Pulga

I am sure you have already heard about this village in Parvati valley. Pulga is a tiny hamlet nuzzled diagonally away and downwards to Kalga, from where the trek to Kheerganga starts. Till some decade or more ago, the village remained known to foreign vacationists. Back then, there was barely one lodge named 'Devraj' compared to current times, when there are endless homestays/hotels.

Unlike Kalga, a base camp for popular treks like Pin Parvati and Kheerganga, Pulga is a gateway to offbeat treks. One such trekking trail is Swajani-Bhandak Thach-Biskeri Thach.

I kept pinching myself only to realize it wasn't a dream but a divine reality!

Day 1

Pulga to Swajani

The trek starting from the last extent of Pulga village is a steep climb for the first 30-40 mins followed by 10-15 mins strolling into the meadows. While the meadow walk had revitalized us enough, we geared up for another 45 mins of the steep climb that landed us in the last stretch of a gradual ascent.

'Flowers are the music of the ground. From earth's lips spoken without sound' - Edwin Curran

The Pine trees and offsprings showing off the spring season's beginning decorate the trail. The motivation remains high, as the snow-capped peaks on the opposite side of the forest never leave us.

It can be tiring if you are not used to trekking a lot. So grab a trekking pole or a stick, and be gentle on your knees.

The plain of Swajani is overshadowed by several peaks, making it unnoticeable until you reach here. You can pitch your tent anywhere, except for fall and monsoon season, when it is advisable to set up in the Dwar (local term used for massive rock shade).

Day 2

Swajani to Bhandak Thach

A little more overwhelming than the previous day, this day is all about attaining high. There are not many points to rest your legs as there is only a rise today. In contrast to the dense Swajani climb, the trail is open and gives you a distance sneak-peek into the villages like Tosh, Barshaini.

'It was a clear, starry night, dead calm. Whenever I see a sky like that, I wish I could write music'.

Soon you will be able to apprehend that you have been walking in the mountains, which otherwise are a scene from Tosh. And while you warm yourself in the chilling night by the bonfire, enjoy the natural lights of a starry night and a slight shine of Tosh village, which is now 45 degrees underneath underneath the campsite.

Day 3

Bhandak Thach to Biskeri and return to Pulga

Biskeri is hardly an hour hike from Bhandak. It is a gorgeous viewpoint for the Himalayan ranges that were playing hide & seek until now. The panoramic view of Papi Chura and Dharmi Chura's giant peaks, along with Sar Pass mountain, is a treat to watch.

'Waterfalls wouldn't sound so melodious if there were no rocks in their way.'

The return to Pulga follows an entirely different route from Bhandak, touching the Kalga-Kheerganga track near a small stream. In 3 hours descend, you will cross small streams and a captivating waterfall where you will want to unwind for the last time.

Things to note :

1. For a trekker of any pace, it should not need more than 3.5 hours to reach Swajani. We touched in 2.15 hours. If you happen to be short on time and your speed is good, you can trek up to Bhandak Thach on the same day, which is another 3-3.5 hours. However, you will still need to have one night in hand as returning in a single day to Pulga is not suggested.

2. The trek is as offbeat as one can imagine; you will not encounter any settlements, so stock up everything from Pulga or Barshaini. In our case, it was just me and a local guide who helped me carry the pantry stuff. For those three days, we didn't meet any humans.

3. It would be best to carry your tents or get one rented from Pulga/Barshaini as there is no civilization after that.

4. There are minimal natural water points on Day 1 and Day 2 compared to Day 3.

5. The best part is, it is a year-round trek except only for the unusual time when there is heavy snow up to 5 ft covering the trail.

6. The overall experience that this alpine trek offers is a simplistic blend of Pin Parvati and Sar Pass trek, yet not being as strenuous as Pin Parvati and crowded as Sar Pass.

So next time you visit Parvati valley, don't miss to add this offbeat trek to your itinerary.

”Of one thing I am certain, the body is not the measure of healing, peace is the measure.” – Phyllis McGinley