Hampi - Where time took a pause

Gopi Guest House

So, this place had always been in my bucketlist and just when I thought of putting it up on priority, we were welcomed with a long weekend. So the journey began on 30.09.2015, when we (me and my all-time traveller, Ankit) after fighting a long queue of problems, left from Chennai at 1700 HRS via Kacheguda Express, which took us to Gooty and from there we had to board a passenger train at 0200 HRS in morning to Hospet. Hospet is the nearest railway station (12 kms). Day 1 (01.10.2015) We reached Gooty at 0100 HRS and we had to wait for the next passenger train to Hospet which will depart at 0215 HRS. While waiting we met few tragedies, where the notorious companion of mine broke the chain of my bag and obviously, got me in problem (as always!), but to our rescue came the station manager, he was super helpful. He arranged few threads to repair my bag and even gave us idea about how to reach hospet and from there to hampi. To our disappointment, the only option we had was a train at 0200 hrs. We had idli, sambar vada at the only outlet open at that time, for which we paid 90 rupees for 2 plates each with cold drink and two cups of tea. After clicking few photographs at station, (rather call it the serene station, as being from north, and being a constant visitor to stations like New Delhi, u hardly get to see silent stations, with only few people roaming around: p), we got general class tickets to hospet for 120 rupees and boarded the train to this beautiful destination at 0215 hrs. We arrived at hospet station at 0530 hrs in morning and from there we had to shed 150 bucks (Auto Ride!) to go to Hampi as we had not informed our guest house owner about the pickup and drop facilities. (Take a note people, do ask for the pickup and drop facilities if you have already booked the guest house!). On the way to Hampi, one thing we had realized that this was going to be journey to the golden era of architecture, a time when technology wasn’t the main concern of people (p.s. NO PHONE SIGNALS! I guess only Idea works... So GET IDEA before you hop on to this journey!) The whole place looked like designed in sepia shade with patches of greenery around. The coconut trees, banana leaves gave the total authentic look to this place, making it look more beautiful than ever. Gopi Guest House: We stayed at “Gopi Guest House” which was 14 kms from the station. As we entered the area, it gave us a glimpse of a modernised village. We reached in half an hour at 7AM. The auto rickshaw driver was very friendly and during the whole ride, he told us about the places to visit in Hampi. Though we were very much excited about the CORACLE aka bamboo boat ride, he told us about the motor boat ride to get across the Tungabhadra river, that divided Hampi into two parts, in just 5 Rs. So, followed by this was getting freshen up and leaving for the day. We got bicycles for 100 rupees/day just below our stay. P.S. they did work well, till the end. Except for ankit’s cycle which troubled us at the end of the day, but thanks to the super helping people there, the problem was solved in a jiffy.

Virupaksha Temple

Virupaksha Temple: So, our first spot was Virupaksha Temple. The oldest and the principal temple of Hampi, is located on the banks of river Tungabhadra. Virupaksha Temple is the main center of pilgrimage at Hampi and has been considered the most sacred sanctuary over the centuries. It is fully intact among the surrounding ruins and is still used in worship. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, known here as Virupaksha, as the consort of the local goddess Pampa who is associated with the Tungabhadra River. We were astonished to know that the temple's history is uninterrupted from about the 7th century. But still it stood there as beautiful as a new one with each of those carvings adding to the beauty of this historical masterpiece. You would find the ticket counter and the shoe safekeeping (1 rupee per pair) booth and a souvenir stall with a good collection of books & maps on Hampi just at the entrance of the main temple. From the ticket counter close to this tower you can buy the entry ticket (Rs5), camera ticket (Rs50) and pay the video camera fee (Rs500). Behind the main sanctum, there is a flight of steps leads to the rear exit of the temple complex. Just before the exit on the right side there is a dark chamber with a slit on the wall. The sunray pass through this slit forms an inverted shadow of the main tower on the wall, a kind of pinhole camera effect created with stonework. This is one of the main attractions, apart from the magnificent architecture and obviously, our very own Temple elephant, LAKSHMI. (She blesses you for every ten rupee note you give to her and loves bananas too :) ).

Kadalekalu Ganesha temple

Kadalekalu Ganesha: As soon as we exit from the Virupaksha temple, to the left of it is an uphill trek that tales you to few more architectural beauties, all you have to do is walk in scroching heat, as its all in ruins, these spectacular ruins! As we walked toward the Kadalekalu Ganesha temple, we gazed at the beauty that was walking just by our side. This giant 4.5 meters statue of Ganesha was carved out of a huge boulder at the northeastern slope of the Hemakuta hill. The belly of this statue resembles a Bengal gram (Kadalekalu, in local language) and hence the name. No admission or photography fee. With this we moved forward to the Sasivekalu Ganesha which was again in uphill direction (Tip: Don’t forget to carry a waterbottle with you, as you don’t have any shops to sell water till you don’t reach this spot) After having this yummy lemon soda from a small vendor near sasivekalu ganesha, we went to forward to visit the big ganesha.

Mango Tree Restaurant

Mango tree Restaurant: Our next stop was the very famous food joint, The Mango Tree, which was famous for obvious reasons! Super yum food. Starting from delicious mango lassi (which we ended up having three glasses) to soothing lemon soda and spicy cauliflower Manchurian and the famous South indian thali, we loved each and every bit of it. Must try place. Total damage : 411/- P.S. The best part of this place being, they offer you an option, to eat at dining tables or to sit down on those cosy mattresses after a long tiring trek and enjoy the authenticity of the food. We chose the latter one! <3

The Fritter Shop

The Fritters Shop: Now moving on to another hidden treasure of this place, one would easily ignore, the best shop for fritters. So, there is this lady who would come around 5 p.m. and start making these delicacies. And trust me folks, nothing is better than having these fritters with a cup of tea. And not to forget, minimal cost! The exact location of this is : while coming out of virupaksha temple, take the first left, you will see a line of chaat vendors. There it stands! Awaiting the yummiest capsicum, chilli and potato pakores. So we ended our day with this and went abode. Super tired, hence *ghode bech wali* sleep.

Tungbhadra River

DAY 2(02.10.2015) Tunghbadhra river: This day started with the main motto of the very known “Coracle Ride”. Coracle is circular shaped country boat to cross the Tunghbadhra river. About 6 feet in diameter, coracles are made of bamboo, cane, plastic sheets and a fine coating of bitumen to make it leak proof!. On an average a coracle takes about 6-8 people. At Hampi there are three places you would find the coracle crossings. The first one is near the Virupaksha temple. That’s the Ghat (bathing place) adjacent to the temple. The crossing is mainly for crossing over to the other side of the river (the Virupapurgadde). This is where we got our coracle (Rs. 50 one side per person, a little on higher side.) The second ‘coracles spot’ is in front of the Kodandarama temple near the Riverside Ruins. There is a big bathing ghat here too. But here they don’t give it on sharing basis. Hence, if you are not a big group, avoid this one, as this would lead to a deep hole in your pocket. The third and the most important ferry point is near the Vittala temple. The road that goes to Anegondi ends here at the ‘work in progress bridge’. One needs to cross the ferry to reach places like the Hanuman temple and a number of other locations in the Anegondi area. But this ride is worth it as it’s going to be a lifetime experience riding a boat that won’t go straight but in rotations.

Anjaneya Hill

Anjaneya Hill: Once we crossed the river, we reached the other side where we have most of the guest houses that provide huts for visitors. And its on this side, you get bikes on rent. We rented a bike and moved to Anjaneya Hill. This place is believed to be the birth place of Hanuman. You can get take the bikes only to the foothill, from there one has to climb the hill. The way to the hilltop is stepped. Has not been modified even a little bit. It’s quite a climb. Can be a little tiring, but the stunning view down would soothe you as you go up the hill. There are no shops at the top. So bring water, snacks etc. from the base. There are a few small stalls down selling drinks and snacks. P.S. Beware of the monkeys!

Hanumanahalli

Hanumanahalli: Then we decided to roam around, meet the localites, we found these ladies who belonged to Lambani Tribe with a very peculiar dress style (picking out lices from other’s scalp :P). Though one of them was super excited to meet us, the other one charged us for taking there picture. Minimal only, 20 Rs.

Mowgli Guest House

Mowgli Guest House: Another beautiful place to sit down at relax! Have a beer and just look around! Peace! :)

Virupapurgadde

Virupapurgadde: On the way you can find graffiti’s on walls along the street which are way too creative and beautiful.

Local Market for Antiques

Local Market for Antiques: And after taking a stroll in the local market endowed with beauty of handicrafts and antique jewellery, we went for the popular special mango lassi (aka bhang!)

Ravi's Rose Roof Top Restaurant

Ravi's Rose Rooftop Restaurant: Though we were waiting for some craziness to come up, where we would die laughing, but nothing happened and we actually had a hard laugh over this fact.

Mathanga Hill

DAY 3(03.10.2015) Mathanga Hills: The final day, we were already too upset to leave this place till we say this and , got depressed of leaving this place. So, our next destination for which we started at 5:30 in morning was Mathanga hills. I would say trip to Hampi would have been incomplete without climbing to Mathanga hills which provides the panoramic view of the this mesmerizing beauty. Once you get at the top, you will easily understand the Map of Hampi. However getting to the top is a tough row to hoe. The trek is moderately challenging as there is no clearway or signboards for directions. At some places, even we were in dilemma, if we were going in the right direction. But all we could do was trust our instincts and follow them as me climbed those rocks. Slippery stones, no support to climb those tough rocks, but these all difficulties perished as soon as we saw the sunrise from the top.

Guntakal

Guntakal : We came back from trek and started back to Chennai. This time from the train was from Guntakal. We paid a visit to the famous temple there and the church which was very quiet and serene.

Railway Station Road

Guntakal Railway Station: And there could not be a perfect end to this amazing tour by yummy fritters along with tea at the Guntakal railway Station. So that’s how I covered checked out another place out of my bucketlist. Beautiful place. Super amazing and helpful people. Break from the routine. Must Visit. “Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out going to the mountains is going home; that wilderness is a necessity.” - John Muir