Mansion hunting in Chettinad

This tiny region in Tamil Nadu had been on the bucket list for long. The stunning photographs of  Chettinad mansions that glossed travel magazine's was the lure of course.

But while researching for the location of some of the best Chettiar houses it turns out that this community did a lot  for the promotion of art and culture in the region as well and some of it stil survives. This trip was going to be more than chasing mansions....

It is unimaginable how an arid and dry place can be of interest to a tourist till one has a look at the grandeur of these palatial houses. Our first stop was  at Attangudi Palace, or Laxmi Vilas also known as periya veedu in Attangudi village.No photograph can capture the sheer opulence and artistry on display. The floor is paved with gorgeous italian marble and pillars of  Burma teak support the wooden roof. Some of the doors are embedded with Belgium mirrors and tile work. The central courtyard is stunning with its arches and ornamentation.

We visit a few houses in Attangudi and Kanadukathan each one grander and more ornate. These surviving  houses have had the fortune of being converted to hotels or museums. There are lots that are crumbling, plundered and abandoned. There is only so much that the mind can absorb and it's a welcome distraction to be ushered into the tile making factory. The Attangudi tiles are handmade using earthy colours and mostly geometric designs. They grace the floors of a lot of the Chettiar houses we visited and still enjoy a steady patronage.

Next on the itinerary was a visit to the plastic basket Weaver's in the area. The colourful baskets are deftly woven by the women in beautiful designs.The commercials are ably handled by women and am impressed by the salesmanship.

The last stop for the day is the GI tagged Kandangi saree workshop. The efforts of Sri Mahalakshmi Handloom weaving and others like them has helped in the continuance of the craft of making Chettinad sarees. The sound of click clack of the pit loom is the constant background music. Armed with bags of purchase we head back to Karaikudi.

The day ends with a fabulously elaborate Chettinad meal at the beautiful Bangala. This boutique hotel in Karaikudi has to its credit the owner Mrs Meenakshi Meyappan, who is responsible for putting Chettinad on the tourist map.

Itinerary

Day 1 : Madurai to Karaikudi. Visit  Chettinad houses at Attangudi  and Kanadukathan. Attangudi tile making and basket weaving unit can be included this day. Overnight at Karai judi.

Day 2 : Karaikudi and around. Drive to Chidnbaram Vilas. Drop by at the saree Weaver's society on the way back at Kanadukathan. Evening browse around the antique market at Karaikudi and finish at Soundaryam sweets.
Overnight at Karaikudi

Day 3: Drive back to Madurai.  Visit the Meenakshi temple and Palace. Overnight train back to Chennai or Bangalore.