Indonesia is exotic, deep, rich and flourishing. It is diverse with archipelago, volcanoes, rain forests and mountains. A few months back when we researched Indonesia's hidden gems, the list was endless. It was a tough call to finish the spots that were already in our bucket for a long time. One of them was Mount Bromo, ("Brahma" pronounced as " Bromo" in the local East Javanese dialect) one of the seven active volcanoes in Java alone. And thus we flew across the sea and sand, the picturesque rice terraces, villages draped in lush green, the tropical dense foliage and the Barongs, the mythical figure guarding the beautiful island of Bali to Surabaya, Indonesia's second biggest city, in just forty five minutes after spending good five days in the vibrant beach town 🏖️.
As tourists except for the knowledge from the World Wide webs we did not have much idea about Mount Bromo. We just wanted to see an active volcano 🌋.
1. Take a flight to Surabaya, the nearest airport to Bromo.
A short and sweet flight of 45 minutes landed us in Surabaya, Indonesia's one of the smart cities. Plush shops , hi street restaurants, tall buildings, good roads very similar to posh pockets of India's big cities is what Surabaya is like.
2. Three to Four hours drive to the foothills of Bromo.
Bromo is at three to four hours driving distance from Surabaya through a well built highway which later meets the hilly road leading to the foothills. The road is absolutely stunning with vegetation and farms on both sides. Suddenly we realise the tropical landscape 🌴 has changed into that of coniferous and deciduous mountain trees. The villages on the way are neat and vibrant caressed by cold mountain Breeze. And we were adapting to a sudden change in temperature to 12°C in Bromo from the sweltering afternoon heat of Bali, just a day ago. Good jackets, caps , gloves are must for seekers of beauty of Bromo.
3. Stay at a local resort at the foothills.
Light chilly wind welcomed us at Bromo foothills as we reached the quiet hamlet just after sundown. We were supposed to halt for food and a few hours of rest at a beautiful nature resort until the jeep we had fixed arrived to take us to the tip of Mount Pananjakan to witness the celestial view of sunrise over Mount Bromo with Mount Sumeru( both active volcano in Java Indonesia) at a distant backdrop. For the uninitiated Mount Sumeru is Indonesia's one of the biggest volcanoes continuously erupting stands tall at a distance and can be seen from aeroplanes too in Bali to Surabaya flight . Mount Bromo at a height of 2400 m is an active volcano emitting plumes of sulphuric smoke close to Mount Penanjakan and the latter offers a stunning view of the volcanic crater of Bromo.
4. Journey to Mount Penanjakan
The wake up call at 2:30 am from hotel reception rang right on time and we got prepared with necessities as we started sharp at 3 am by jeep onwards Mount Penanjakan. In the darkness all around little could we perceive what lay on both sides of the road except the uphill steep slope in the head light of the jeep. As we reached half way of the hilly road and looked down from the window a long trail of jeep lights confirmed that we have many co tourists to accompany us. To our surprise at around 4 am we found the local tea stalls and eateries on the way teeming with tourists , en route Pananjakan peak for sunrise view. While the temperature dropped to 4 ° C our hands froze as we stepped out of the jeep around 200 mts far from the viewpoint. We followed our guide along with many groups of tourists all heading towards the point. Carefully walking in the dark following the trail of flashlight in extremely cold and misty night we made our way to the ultimate viewpoint . The top of Mount Penanjakan was thick with tourists and locals all awaiting sunrise at 5:30 am. It took around 30 mins to walk to the top which is at an altitude of 2700 m after our jeep stopped at the last parking point.
5. Sunrise 🌄
The sunrise view of Bromo is ethereal. Each day here is a celebration flanked by tourists to view the stunning sunrise in the dry season which is April to September . However in the event of clouds playing spoilsport spectators might be left awaiting a clearer day. By 6 am Mount Sumeru unveiled in the backdrop with plumes of smoke rising into the air. The thick white clouds still kept sailing above Bromo until in a while when wind blew away the clouds and Bromo revealed itself with its deep crater. It was an absolutely fiery beauty. The entire landscape from the top was a sea of black volcanic sand with no sign of vegetation due to continuous volcanic activity. It was time to descend Mount Penanjakan and head towards Mount Bromo up and close.
6. The most exciting part of the trip
Bromo unveiled itself with majestic aura. As the sun rose above the hill ranges the needles of the old pines and cedars shone sprightly. The Jeep got us down from the height of 2700 m of the tip of Mount Penanjakan and headed towards Mount Bromo which is at an altitude of 2400 mts. The drive to Bromo is over the vast and flat expanse of black volcanic sand . Wearing masks and caps is essential to be safe from the dust mixed with sulphur emissions from the crater. We reached the base of Mount Bromo. The mighty hill is hailed by the locals as Lord Brahma, the Hindu God of creation. Locals worship Bromo and conduct rituals annually at the Brahma temple right at the base of the hill.
7. Pony ride till the realm of the crater.
Beyond the parking lot of jeeps tourists either ride ponies to climb half the hill of Bromo or walk in the sand. Later climbing 250 steps would take one to the realm of the crater. Words will fall short to describe how I felt reaching the realm of the crater. It's incredible to witness volcano which we had imagined since childhood from the pages of books or news prints. Further elaboration would play a spoilsport to any wanderlust. Hence I would stop here and say that I am blessed to have witnessed this phenomenon of nature. The sight of a continually active volcano giving out plumes of smoke and sulphur that stands a fair chance of erupting anytime kept me fixed on spot and clicking the shutter endlessly. Bromo as per locals last erupted in 2011 and was shut for four months for the tourists. Bromo is source of livelihood for many yet dangerous.
8. Return journey
We embarked on our return journey leaving Bromo behind , leaving behind the sea of black sand, leaving behind thousands of tourists, the ponies that carried us to the hill and back through the steep rocky slopes of Bromo standing in line with their masters bid us a silent goodbye. Bromo has been peacefully active for few years since it last erupted. I wish it remains like that and never erupt and so do the locals who have made Bromo their breadwinner. Our next journey was long onward Surabaya.
I return with a feeling of having seen a magnificent event on earth and I quietly put it at the top of my best takeaways of the Indonesia trip.
The day is bright sunny and enigmatic. While the magma underneath Earth's surface is boiling , few metres away the Javanese farmers silently sow onion, cabbage ,garlic in rich soil in the neighbouring hill. Life goes on as usual ; jeeps completing their day's trips; tourists return with stunning photographs; hotels and resorts carry out their day's business .....it's life just like any other day in God's own creation.
