The Royal Rajasthan.....
Well known state for everyone who loves travelling, culture, history and architecture. I wanted to visit Rajasthan since I started my travelling. This time it was almost suddenly planned trip.
We were only 2 girls decided to go to some trip on new year eve. We agreed to Rajasthan. I already have an idea on Rajasthan because this amazing state was always in my bucket list but i had to search for camps at Jaisalmer which fits in our budget and also celebrate new year.
This trip was crazy. We lost bag and documents, gained some amazing friends, made some impromptu plans, travelled like local, stayed at hostels, supported each other. We ate, laughed, walked, tired, solved all issues, spent time together.
We loved all 3 cities, the people, food and the way they kept the tradition and culture intact. I won't bore you much talking about what we felt. Let's get into details.
Budget:
No of travellers : 2
Places : Jaipur, Jaisalmer and Udaipur.
Month : December - January (New year week)
Budget: 18k per person including everything
Dec 28th, Saturday
My trip unofficially started on Friday itself. I could not sleep because I was too excited that I'm going to Rajasthan. I roamed on Hyderabad roads and by 4am I reached airport to board flight to Jaipur- The Pink City.
I reached Jaipur by 7:30am. The temperature was 7°c by that time. I was shivering until I went to collect my bag from conveyor belt. My friend's flight landed at 8. I was eagerly waiting for her. I was not only excited for trip, was also to meet her after 1 and 1/2 year. She was my colleague, is my friend and always my sister from another mother.
We started our trip by booking ola to our stay Bagpack Village, which was some 45min journey from airport. We reached hostel before our check-in time. They provided early check-in for us. We kept our bags and went on streets to have breakfast.
We had samosa, kachori, bread pakoda and jalebi for breakfast. Yes we ate this much... Food was too good and I'm not a foodie. After having breakfast we went to visit Jal mahal which was near to our stay.
Positive point of Jaipur is local transportation. E-rikshwas are available almost every where and which doesn't put hole to your pocket.
Jal mahal (Water Palace) is a palace constructed in middle of Man Sagar lake. It is closed so it won't take more than 15, 20 min to visit this place including clicking pictures in all weird poses you can think of. One has to watch Mahal from distance. One can visit Gaitore ki Chhatriya infront of lake, which is basically a cremation site of kachwaha rulers.
From there we decided to go to Amer fort so we booked a OLA Auto for 100INR, But most of the OLA and Uber are cancelling trips after accepting those. We seriously fed with that situation. It doesn't happened only at Jaipur, we faced same situation in our entire journey.
Amer/Amber fort is one of the major attractions in Jaipur. Amer is just 11kms from Jaipur city. Even though I'm a history lover, I'm not going to write about dates and Rajas who built it. I'm just giving details what I felt and which I think may help to travel lovers.
So it's a huge fort. I have been to so many forts before but this fort is well maintained and magnificent. The Royal's must have taste. One need to climb stairs to reach this Rajputana architectural wonder from. Also there are another options like elephant ride and electric car. Elephant ride costs 1000INR for two but i urge everyone to take walk.
On the way up you can find people playing traditional music instrument. Fort won't be going anywhere, so sit(don't block way), listen, enjoy and if possible offer him some money as token of appreciation.
If you walk further you can see entrance of fort and you can closely see those mighty elephants carrying people to ignoring our staring. There is no entrance ticket as such but to visit sheesh mahal visitors need to pay 100INR.
Sheesh mahal is heart of Amer fort, a must visit place. It's not in pink or golden color. It is a beautiful queen wearing silver color clothing and mirror as jewellery (not literally 😁). But I must say it is so beautiful but visitors are allowed to see it from outside only but it's worth. I heard it was constructed for queen who loved to sleep under stars but is not allowed to. So Maharaja came with an idea to fulfill her wish by constructing sheesh mahal in such a way when candles lit inside it reflects through all the mirrors making them shine like stars and also it makes room warm so Maharaja also used to shift here in Winter. There are souvenir shops inside fort and also there is a 12km way which takes you to Jaigarh fort which is built on another peak from Amer fort. Keep 1- 1 1/2 hrs to visit this fort.
I was ready to walk but my friend was not, so we took 2nd option and started searching for Ola or Uber. November, December and January are peak months for Rajasthan tourism. So, expect to struck in traffic if you are planning trip to Rajasthan in any of these months. It was so difficult to get a car in budget.
A tip here... If any autowala offered to take you to all 3(Amer, Jaigarh and Nahargarh) forts for some 700 or 800 accept it, otherwise you will end up spending double.
Finally we swam through traffic and reached Jaigarh fort. Entrance ticket for Indians is 80INR. It won't much time to visit this fort as there isn't much. Main attraction is Jaivan Cannon, a largest cannon decorated with beautiful carvings all over it. We took some pictures there and started to walk on fort walls and also we visited place where culprits of some crime gets punished by throwing to crocodiles .
My stomach also reminded me that it is past lunch time. There is a restaurant which provides yummy food. Don't expect me to explain about food because I survived with only Aloo paratha with curd in entire trip.
We planned to go Nahargarh fort too on same day to watch sunset but my friend was not feeling well so we head back to our stay.
After an hour break, we planned to go to Bapu Bazaar. Shopping... Yayyyy(not exactly). . ..
We tried to book ola or Uber but we were unable to as drivers are cancelling trips, so we decided to use local E-rikshaw. Auto drove through busy roads, passing Hawa Mahal on the way... I must say it is so beautiful and shining bright at night. We reached near bapu bazaar signal, it was red so driver asked us to get down there, in this hurry I forgot my bag having all valid proofs of me and my friend's.
We went into shopping bazaar. That place was so amazing, I never liked any markets like this. It was decorated so well that even I didn't realize for some time that I lost my bag. Later, we stopped somewhere to eat street food and then I realized it. We went for searching, we went to police station and asked if anyone came and gave my bag. But no luck. We gave our details there and went to internet cafe to get our proofs. Rest of the day we spent at internet cafe only and went back to our stay by 10:30pm, had dinner and slept.
We woke up around 7 or 8 in the morning, got ready, boarded E-rikshaw and went to Hawa Mahal first. When you think about pink city, the first thing that comes into mind is Hawa Mahal, also known as The palace of winds is a unique Rajput architecture constructed for palace women to watch out side world without being seen. The street view of the mahal is having honeycomb structure with some hundreds of miniature windows which allows wind inside.
We clicked some amazing pictures and went to have breakfast to Wind View restaurant just in front of Hawa Mahal. We climbed rooftop our food served and we enjoyed our yummy breakfast and coffee with amazing view of Hawa Mahal.
After breakfast we went back to internet cafe to collect our proofs, while going there we were shopped by some saree seller and we ended up buying 7 sarees and some 4 Jaipur Dupattas.
For Shopoholics: we bought 40gm saree for 500INR a piece and my mom liked those too much, she is asking me when I go Jaipur again🤣
And then we went to police station filed FIR and went to visit city palace.
Entry ticket for city palace : 200INR for Indians. Don't throw or lose your ticket untill you come out of city palace. The palace complex has several buildings, various courtyards, galleries, restaurants and museum. It has the pictures of Royals and also their biographies.
Take time and visit each and every room as every room has its own importance and uniqueness.
Main attractions are sabha mahal, Sarvatho Bhadra, Mubarak Mahal, Chandra Mahal and clock tower.
Jantar Mantar is just adjacent to city palace. Entry ticket is 50INR for indians and 200INR for foreigners. The primary purpose of the observatory was to compile astronomical tables and to predict the times and movements of the planets, sun and moon.
From there we went back to stay to drop our shopping bags and started for Nahargarh fort to watch sunset. We got a worst Ola cab driver who left us at midway. We got a auto from there for 200INR.
Nahargarh fort again is a huge fort with amazing city view and well maintained.
Entry ticket for Indians is 50INR and 200INR for foreigners
Watching sunset from there is worth of all struggle, it was crowded by the time we reached and people occupied golden spots😒. Going to rooftop is itself a task though. I read there is a wax museum inside palace and also sheesh mahal. But we reached almost at sunset we couldn't explore much as it is closing time. There is also a restaurant inside fort.
We hired an auto for 400INR to go back to city. We went to our stay directly freshen up and went for dinner to Hawk View restaurant. The ambience of restaurant is good, it's a rooftop restaurant which offers variety of food and bar. As chokhi dhani is around 20kms from where we stayed, we thought to call off our day by trying dalbaati here.
When I started research for Rajasthan trip I came across this temple. It caught my eye and heart Instantly. I decided not to miss this place.
We booked a OLA cab and went to temple around 8:30 AM. There are two ways to go to temple, one is hike and one by vehicle. It was freezing at that time, so we decided to take option two. After going there and looking at that Paradise, I was so satisfied and happy that i decided to visit this place. Words are not enough to describe it. I felt goosebumps. I attached a picture. Have a look and I'm sure everyone agree with me.
There is no entry ticket. There are so many monkeys inside temple compound, they won't come near you unless you are offering some food to them.
We headed back to Jaipur and had to extend stay as my friends health was upset and had to take rest before we leave Jaipur. We found a bus to jodhpur thanks to ola driver who helped us to find a bus and a good market place to buy Rajai, thermals and woolens.
Bus was a sleeper one and we both had to adjust in one seat and the was most fun part. It took almost 7 hours to reach our destination. We got down from bus and saw a subway in front of us. We had our dinner and left for railway station. We booked a train from jodhpur to Jaisalmer (There are trains available from Jaipur too but initially we thought to roam jodhpur but later we had to cancel that) .
Never book seat in sleeper from jodhpur to Jaisalmer for night journey in December. It was freezing even after I covered myself with one Rajai and a bedsheet that I couldn't sleep whole night and had to spent whole night listening to snoring people because I lost my earphones too with my bag🤦♀.
We reached Jaisalmer early morning 5. We hired a cab just out side railway station to our stay called Wonbin hostel just backside of Jaisalmer fort. By the time we reached there was power cut all over Jaisalmer. We sat near bonfire for sometime, by the time hostel people arranged our dorm. We went inside and try to get some sleep. I couldn't because fellow travellers were inquiring about power and hot water etc.
After 2 hours we got power back and also hot water. We got freshen up and went to rooftop for breakfast. The breakfast was so so, but we befriended a Korean and a Italian. Korean lady was so nice and a talker( she talks more than me🤣)... We clicked some pictures together, bit adieu and left for fort.
Jaisalmer is really a Golden beauty. Watching every street and every house we passed by were felt like listening to a soothing old song. Every structure built with sand stone, so you can see only golden color where ever you go and no it is definitely not boring to watch a single color all the time. The rock carvings on house doors and windows are awesome, anyone will be awestruck and makes you feel like you are walking in some painting. The pink city was also beautiful but it is also disturbed by development but Jaisalmer is Raw beauty😍💓.
We went to fort. The guy who made breakfast for us, he led our way. The Golden fort/ Jaisalmer fort/ Sonar khila is the only living fort. Fort is crowded with people who made it their home, Homestays, souvenir shops, restaurants and photographers.
It was chaos, yet you feel peace..... Those streets are busy, yet you can find time.... Fort is crowded, yet you will get place.... Faces are strange, yet you find friends...
You won't get Vibes here like any other forts, because here life didn't stop at history but it is embracing present and looking into future. We entered into fort and dolled up in traditional Rajasthan dress, blushed when people were staring and also waving at us☺.
We walked further inside, we found cafes, restaurants playing western music and business men selling katputli (handmade dolls) , Indian dresses, shawls etc. The fort is really alive. We didn't get enough time to cover complete fort. We have a booking at Sam sand dunes for new year night and we had to start before we are late.
Sam is 45kms far from Jaisalmer into thar desert. There are so many camps which are offering deserves safari packages depends on your budget and choices. We opted sheesh mahal camp, they provided one night stay including snacks, dinner, breakfast, camel and jeep safari, cultural and DJ night for new year in 10k INR.
We reached our camps, checked-in, had maggie from outside stall and left for safari. Later we sat at dunes and watched sunset. It might feel like a romantic movie while reading but sitting in sand while it is blowing like it's taking revenge on us was not at all fun. By the end I agree we witnessed a beautiful sunset but sand is every where in hair, on clothes and also went inside shoes.
Above scenario will be fine untill you can get a hot bath in that cold winter salty night, but we don't have that luxury. We were informed we get hot water only on mornings from 6 to 9. Anyways we returned back after some time Rajasthani cultural program started and also snacks. The program was boring as the dancers are not in sync and doing their own thing.
Later at 8 or 9PM DJ started but most of the songs played were Bhojpuri and Haryanvi. The songs which we never heard of, at first we requested for Bollywood songs and later we just ignored and danced on whatever songs they played. It was worst DJ I ever been to but I have a great company. Food was amazing though. We called the day off after new year cake cutting.
We woke up 8:30 am around and the temperature was 1°c . We couldn't dare to go for jeep safari, we just left for Jaisalmer, while going back we visited 2 famous places Kuldara- The abandoned village and Royal Cenotaphs - Bada bagh.
We woke up 8:30 am around and the temperature was 1°c . We couldn't dare to go for jeep safari, we just left for Jaisalmer, while going back we visited 2 famous places Kuldara- The abandoned village and Royal Cenotaphs - Bada bagh.
Kuldhara also built by sandstones. This village belongs to paliwal brahmins and now it is maintained by archeology department. The story goes like Paliwal brahmins disappeared in one night to protect a girl from then prime minister salim singh. It is not that only girls family disappeared, total 83 villages are abandoned in one night. There are some house you can see which are intact and Bullock cart which they left. There is a temple from where you can see whole village. Even it is famous as a mysterious ghost town, there is nothing spooky, it is just a abandoned Village.
Entry ticket is 45rs for indians.
From there we headed to visit Royal Cenotaphs. This is the resting place of rulers from Bhatti dynasty who ruled Jaisalmer.
Entry ticket for Royal Cenotaphs is 100INR for Indians. I have a soft corner towards resting places. I really loved here looking at those chhatris of rulers, resting peacefully there. Some are huge, some are small, some are incomplete and some crumbled.
We had a bus to Udaipur at 6PM. So we hired same cab till 6 and started exploring remaining Jaisalmer.
Our next stop was Jaisalmer war museum. It is outside the city on the way to Longewala.
Jaisalmer war museum is established to memorize and to tell stories of those brave soldiers who sacrificed themselves for nation and it's people. When you enter into premises first thing you notice is our national flag which stood tall and proud and there is a poem written on class near the entrance at reception, we makes you feel emotional and gives goosebumps. The aircraft, tanks used in Longewala war between India and Pakistan are on display and also the Pakistan tanks captured by India are there too.
And also one can see photos of soldiers who died trying to save our nation, awards presented, wars they fought and information about weapons and suits used by soldiers. There was another emotional moment is when you find a last letter written by a soldier to his family. I felt proud but sad. It is not easy to lose someone and I'm sure some of these soldiers family members didn't get chance to see them and give them proper goodbye. I hope they all are at Peace.
Our next destination was Salim Singh ki Haveli. Take a guide who walks through the Haveli and explain how it constructed. Do you believe if I say they whole 7 floor (Originally 9floor) haveli is constructed without using single drop of water?
Yes.... It is true. The Haveli is constructed using Lego technology, they attached 2 stones like we do while playing with lego and used iron rods to keep them intact. The stone decorations are amazing. Haveli is designed in a way where renovation is possible without disturbing complete structure, designed in a way to recycle water, in a way where salim singh can enjoy watching dancers while room smells amazing with scented fountains built at 7th floor and has lights like now a days disco. Salim Singh's descendents are still living there.
Our next destination was Patwon ki Haveli. Patwon ki Haveli is not one but 5 Havelis in a compound completely different from each other but enchanting. These 5 havelis are built by brothers for their families. The windows and the rock carvings are amazing watch. I bet you can't turn your gaze from them for some time. There is another haveli if you walk for some 5 min in the street just in front of Patwon ki haveli is Nathmal ki haveli. It is constructed by 2 architect brothers, who designed their sections independently. When you look at it, at first glance you can't anything but if you looks close one side of the building is completely different from the other side.
Our last stop is Gadisar Lake. One of the to do list in Jaisalmer is boating in Gadisar lake, which we didn't do anyways, but watching the lake at sunset is another to do list which everyone should try. It was 6PM already, we had to leave for Udaipur. It was hard to say bye to Jaisalmer.
Tip: keep at least 3nights/4days for Jaisalmer. I promise you can never get over.
We reached Udaipur by 5:30 in the morning, booked a cab and reach our stay called Hostel Crawl. We checked in early and slept. We woke up at 11am. We freshen up and then left hostel in search of food by 2pm.
Jheel cafe provides best view of pichola lake and food. We had food and left for city palace. Entry ticket is 300INR. Later we went for boating in Lake Pichola. Watched another beautiful sunset. We started exploring streets of Udaipur city. We walked, shopped untill we are tired actually I'm tired of shopping. We went near Jagannath temple had an amazing tea and then sat at lake watching it and talking with each other. We had dinner at small restaurant and called off day.
There is train which goes to chittorgarh from Udaipur at 6 am. We booked tickets for this train just a day before. So today we woke up early and booked a cab to railway station. We boarded train. We reached chittorgarh after 2 and 1/2 hour journey. We got an ola auto from railway station and started our journey towards fort.
I don't think there is any Indian who doesn't know about chittorgarh Or Maharana Prathap. This was also on my list to cover and I was too excited to visit it. Chittorgarh is one of the largest fort in India and Asia. These fort walls witnessed some great rulers of Mourya and Mewar dynasty and brave yet sad scenes of Jauhar( mass self- immolation)... Not once but thrice.
There is a temple dedicated to ma kali inside fort. There is also vijaya sthamba, a nine store structure built by Maharaja kumba to commemorate his victory is decorated with sculptures and rock carvings and available for visitors to climb. We visited Rana Kumba's palace too. Once this fort might be full of people king, Queens , princes and the people who served them but now it is silent. And then we visited Mira temple and a Jain temple besides Kirti Stamba.
And finally my favorite place in entire fort padmini palace. You need to show entry ticket here. It has garden and one or 2 rooms. This is the place where Khilji saw Rani Padmavati's face in reflection. Padmavati's palace has kund(pond) surrounded by it. It is a 3 store building. I found it so amazing, it is not like other palaces but I didn't want to move I just wanted to sit there and watch that palace. We were not aware untill we went there that there is a festival celebrated from Jan 3 to Jan 5. We had to return because we didn't made plans and we were not in position to made impromptu one. We returned to railway station and from there we came back to Udaipur by Bandra express.
We ended our trip with visiting Karni mata temple. There are 2 ways to reach temple either by hike or by ropeway. We opted ropeway. 110INR is ticket for ropeway. We had to wait for our turn and you can see beautiful night view of Udaipur from the temple. We spent some time there and came back to our stay. While coming back to stay we met a guy who is running a travel agency. We went to his office to book a bus for next day and ended sharing some amazing travel stories.
This is last day of our trip. We booked a bus to Ahmedabad. We woke up by 7am and packed our things, checked out from hostel, the hostel guy helped us to reach our cab which we booked to reach bus pick up point. Our bus started at 8:30 am after 2 hours of journey we met with accident. Luckily it's a minor one and no one got injured.
We reach Ahmedabad by 2pm, had food, and reached railway station to send off my friend. I wanted to roam Ahmedabad too but I was exhausted by all these I directly went to airport.
This how our trip ended.....
I made some friends.....
I handled some situations....
I had fun.....
I will treasure these memories forever.....
But Jaisalmer, I'll definitely come back....
Signing off-
Monika Swarna
Instagram- i.am.sanchari
Travel Safe.... Travel Responsible....
And you can drop me a message if you need help with your plan or if you have any suggestions for me 🙂