Isn't 2020 the year we are supposed to be staying put, locked up inside our homes, venturing outside only for essential?!
That's the catch isn't it?
Travel is an essential for me!
Yes, you could say I did it because I am based out of Hyderabad, and its just a 5 hour ride/drive for me give or take! But that would be true only if you are bothered by the miles. I am not. Heck, I just did a 1000 KM ride in 14 hours, and a week before that a 1000 km drive in 15. No, I don’t mind the distance.
My route on all my Hampi trips->Hyderabad->Mehboobnagar->Raichur->Gangavati->Hampi
My first trip to Hampi was in and around the Hampi festival 2020, an extravaganza of cultural delights, social amalgamation and chill.
In the month of Jan 2020, the Vijay (Nagar) Utsav (or the festival of the Vijay Nagar Empire, and not a festival of victory over something as I heard many people, Indian and foreigners alike misinterpret the name), provides an opportunity for anyone wanting to make the first visit to Hampi to experience everything Hampi’s history is known for while simultaneously also exploring the heritage and natural beauty.
But its also challenging because of the crowds, throngs of visitors to all sites, even the ones which are hidden gems of Hampi, and so if you are looking for peace and quite and wanting to click monuments with the pristine glory they signify, Hampi Festival is not the time to go.
And so next time I decided to ditch the crowd and head there when the place has fewer humans!
I packed my motorcycle with the essentials of travel (you don’t want to be stranded and begging for help from passers-by. So a little heavy with the luggage (of which half is camera gear and the other half motorcycle spares) I rode from 6 am and was on good time to reach Hampi by lunch when the bearings of my rear tire gave way and I had a break down 56 kms before Raichur.
Crawling at 10-15 kmph I made it to Raichur in 2-3 hours and with another 2 hours of work on the motorcycle, and a rather stress induced heavy but delicious lunch I was back on the road.
Reaching Hampi at about 9, I rang up Sunil, friend and owner of Om Homes Hampi who gracefully, even though fully booked, gave me a riverside spot to pitch my tent. Om Homes is just next to Baba Café, Hampi and I love it because its spots for camping are close to river and I can literally just walk from my tent to the river and witness the gorgeous imposing face of the hills of Kishkindha in front of me in the morning.
Over the next 3 days I rode in and around exploring the following places
Virupaksha Temple and Hampi Bazaar area
In many ways the center of attraction for most visitors to Hampi is the Virupakhsa (a name for Shiva- in reference to Shiva’s third eye) the temple is always bustling with visitors. It is a walk away from elephant stables, coracle boarding point at banks of Tungabhadra river, and Hemkunta hills, besides the lanes of Hampi bazaar- Hampi’s own flea market – the streets dotted by homestays on both sides.
So why did I travel to Hampi 3 times in 3 months?
Hemkunta Hills
Nothing short of a canvas of boulders, Hemkunta Hills is a cluster of temples from 9th to 14 century (700-1000 years old) of the VijayaNagar Empire. Legend has it that Lord Shiva married Pampa (a local manifestation of Parvati) and the marriage was blessed by gold (Hema in Sanskrit) raining from skies hence the name Hemkunta. Whatever the mythology, the place is worth a day of your itinerary, starting with sunrise on Matanga Hills, and sunset on Hemkunta. Mind you even in the best weather, afternoons can be pretty hot and bottles of water and narial paani are handy, and accessible on the roadside and you hope from one shrine to another.
Krishna Temple
The Krishna Temple is the exit of the trail from Virupakhsa->Hemkunta-> Krishna temple and just opposite is the expansive Krishan Bazaar which used to be a trading place of goods of all kinds. Just standing and looking at the vast bazaar can bring to your imagination the sight of traders from across the world coming to Hampi to trade in silk, horses and gemstones.
Ganesh Temple
Ganesh Temples are 2 in Hampi- at least those which are considered landmark- Sasivekalu Ganesh and Kadelakalu Ganesh- both sporting high monolithic statues of Ganesh. Even after multiple onslaughts by invaders the glory is visible from both an architectural as well as religious perspective.
Narsimha (Lakhsmi Narsimha) Temple
This is the ugra (angry) form of Narsimha, and has the pride of being the largest statue in Hampi. The location is very picturesque and the walk from the road to the temple is enchanting though short.
Vijay Vithala Temple
A more recent temple, perhaps about 600 years old, a witness to the glory of the Vijay Nagar Empire, this temple complex is well known and very popular among visitors. As you enter the temple, you are greeted by the famous stone chariot (which is inspired by the one in Sun Temple, Konark). Incidentally if you have a 50 rupee note handy, you can see this chariot printed on it. Honestly, my second trip was to capture this monument minus the crowd. (And of course other monuments - which were too crowded in my trip 1)
I bought a few stone artefacts and memorabilia and headed back after 4 days to Hyderabad.
As I rode back, witnessing the sun rise over the paddy fields (you head East as you come out of Hampi to Gangavati and further) I had this sense of missing something. It felt so out of character for me to do what I did at Hampi, and as I swung in and out of the town’s curves, I knew what it was.
I had not seen the real Hampi, or the side of Hampi which really brought you almost in the same age as the history in its tales is. I did not walk, I did not stop and listen, and I had not a moment of quite. I was not still.
And I decided I will be back, but on my own terms and alone.
And then the lock down happened
With almost everything closed on the way, this time I was packed with food and water and not motorcycle spares, and riding over 100 kms at a stretch to make it to Hampi in just under 6 hours.
With just over a 1000 cases in India the country went in a shut down and after a few weeks of learning new survival skills, and staying under the radar, I decided to take a trip and this time in monsoons to Hampi on a solo ride.
In the next 4 days at Hampi, I discovered trails where there was no soul, apart from a farmer knee deep in water tending to his paddy farms. Or a modern day rishi with eyes closed under a tree in an obscure temple not a part of the tourist circuit. I spoke to people struggling to make a living with the new normal and yet having the kindness to offer tea and refreshments.
And now that I had seen the heritage in my last trip, I turned my attention to paddy fields which put Ubud, Bali to shame, honestly.
And I rode a coracle around the river looking at caves where a few hundred years ago, rishis used to meditate probably and passing under boulders. And rode a coracle around the river looking at caves where a few hundred years ago, rishis used to meditate probably and passing under boulders.
I walked the paths which were supposedly walked by Vali, Sugriva and Hanuman, and saw the places where Ram and Lakshman watched over the hills from a small window as a caution against intruders. So much history, so many stories.
I read about the Vijay Nagar empire while lazing at the riverside from my tent, its expanse from down south to up north and east. Its marvels which were known to China, Persia, Mesopotamia and saw this all in the engraved stories over the stone walls of the temples.
I walked the length and breadth of Krishna Bazaar imagining the splendor of the times when gems were sold in litres and kilos and the world came to Hampi to take away the riches to their own countries and spread tales of the wealth and culture of India- the tales which later brought invaders and looters to our golden nation.
I spent hours on the river side, jumped into the torrid current of the Sanapur lake only to realize that my swimming pool skills are as good as a child when the lake’s fury in monsoon is in full force.
I rode into the sunset into the sunrise and into the rains and thunderstorms.
And I made Hampi a part of me.
Check out my IG g_j_k_iam for more Hampi travel clicks.
Comment for tips, tricks and if you want me to come with you on a trip!
