A Visit to Happiest Land in the Himalayas

Thimpu- The Capital

We headed to the capital city of Thimpu which was almost 1.5 hrs drive from airport. Roads were big and super clean with no traffic signals yet perfect control and yes, vehicle didn't honk here. There must be thousand such reasons for this serene atmosphere. The soothing mountain air and feeling of calmness welcomed when I entered the city.

We checked-in to the hotel, there entire staff was in the traditional Bhutanese outfits. Men wearing Gho which is knee length robe with woven belt around waist while women wearing Kira, an ankle length long wrapped around dress accompanied with jacket Tego and an inner layer Wongu. Phew! Too much of Dzonkha at once. They say it's mandatory dress-up at work, government offices, festivals and other important occasions to promote and preserve their national aesthetics. Thoughts behind each small thing... I wondered that so much was yet to discover about the country in coming 8 days.

Resting for some time after long over night journey we bucked up to get the feel of capital. Bhutan is ruled by King Jigme Namgyel Wanghchuck, his palace is in Thimpu at Tashichho Dzong part of which is famous tourist attraction. I was about to get my first Dzong experience in the city with Tashichho. While driving around the city I got to see the entire panoramic view of it from one viewpoint. Surrounded by rice fields, it is a red and white structure with golden peak, it looked very beautiful.

We arrived at the place. The country imposes entry fees to almost all tourist spots. Currency problem never occurred for us as almost all INR denominations were accepted across. Buying entry tickets that had fine print of entire dzong on rectangular sheet of paper, we headed at the entrance of so called "Fortress of Glorious Region". A guide was assigned to each random bunch, he walked us across the place briefing the history and significance of things around.

Thimpu: Fortress of Glorious Region -Tashichho Dzong

This large and magnificent, impressive red and white fortress is located on the banks of Wang Chu(River). It houses parliament and other administrative offices, king's palace, monasteries and home to about 300 monks during summer.

Tourist were only allowed to enter towards left where main temple was located with restricted entry to any of administrative areas or path to kings palace for that matter.

It was incredible walking around!! Spring flowers in their full bloom enhanced the beauty. It had large open air courtyard paved with rectangular stone slabs , flocks of pigeons fluttering inside it. This courtyard is also famous for hosting their Annual Tsechu festival.

Even more amazing was sense of calmness and stillness that I felt within these huge white walls, birds chirping, sounds of flowing water and spinning prayer wheels purifying all negativity from whole atmosphere. Oh!! I was stuck in tranquility with this musical silence.

The guide took us to main assembly hall via beautifully painted corridor with images of previous kings. Monastery had brown and gold windows and doors, colorful wood carving with delightful architecture. Entering inside we saw huge statue of present form of Lord Buddha Sakyamuni with his two disciples and around 2000 small buddha statues in the hall.

As Indian mythology believes Kalki Avatar of lord Vishnu will be born to end Kalyuga, Buddhist also believe the future Buddha is Maitreya which will appear on earth to achieve complete enlightenment.

Weather was getting colder with clouds covering sky and mountains getting darker in evening , we returned to the hotel as it was about to rain.

Our room was huge and super clean with wooden flooring and all amenities. The best part was the huge window with wonderful view of mountains outside. It was very cold so the glass window was barrier to my view but still only darkness could spare my eyes off. I kept wondering how center of city can be this calm and yet musical. Visiting the place is actually affordable with choice of good hotels as 3 star experience is same as any of 5 star in other countries, you will find blend of tradition with nice touch of modern amenities.

Sooner around 7.30 pm we got call for dinner arrangement, I was about to get in to healthy lifestyle ever "Early to bed Early to rise". Staff was very friendly offering great hospitality. A simple yet beautiful girl named Purnima wearing the elegant Kira probably in her 20s, served dinner to us. She was very polite, always greeting with innocent smile when we arrived , asking how was our day how are we finding Bhutan, getting us hot and fresh food , wishing a good night , seems like transferring all happy vibes! These might be very small things but yes we do feel good when we are treated good and it was not only us everyone around was warmed with such kindness.

Waking up fresh after a peaceful sleep, morning view outside was so adorable. We saw small cute-cute kids waiting at bus stop to go to the school, policeman controlling the vehicles peacefully, no one is in hurry, no honks! We were taken for delicious breakfast of toast and butter, orange marmalade, scrambled eggs, Poha and Masala chai. It was easier to get Indian food in all hotels probably because of huge number of Indian tourist coming to the city. It was our last day in Thimpu as we headed to famous religious attraction of city National Memorial Chorten.

Thimpu: Chorten/ Memorial Stupa

Chorten in Dzonkha or Stupa in sanskrit is iconic religious monument built in the memory of 3rd king Jigme Dorji Wanghchuck. It is a gigantic Vase like white structure crowned with gold spire and gorgeous paintings appeared aesthetic with mountains and clouds in the background. There were large red and yellow colored prayer wheels located at left of the entrance with hanging prayer flags having thousands of prayers written on them.

While heading towards Chorten through the garden area, I could see many elderly Buddhist dressed in traditional costume circumambulating and whirling the large prayer wheels, chanting with their mala prayer beads while others offering suryanasmaskar in the lawn area.

Interior was three storeyed that has wood carvings showing Virjakilaya, their wrathful looking deities. Four shrines each with different pictures of king and lord Buddha statue with water offerings as water can be afforded by all. There was this iconic bench for photography with background of monument and moutains similar to one at Taj Mahal in India. I could recall the picture of our PM Narendra Modi on same bench during his visit to this country.

All tourist places in the city were within the distance of few kilometers and so we zipped up the curvy roads to reach our next destination the Buddha Dordenma.

World's tallest Buddha- Dordenma Statue

We arrived at the grand entrance of the Buddha point. The massive statue of Sakyamuni located atop hill commands the entire Thimpu valley. I was standing in front of the largest sitting Buddha in the world about 51.5 meters. It is made up of bronze glided in gold. They say it holds 125,000 miniature Buddhas inside. There was a huge compound and at periphery a nymph like goddess holding a colored cloth which are symbols of good luck in Buddhism.

I was lost with the view of lord Buddha, wise eyes were looking at me with gentle smile on lips. Every angle gave me different perspective to admire. Bed of lotus, weapon Vajra, right hand pointing towards earth while left hand holding begging bowl as symbol of humility, carvings galore showing horses and peacocks in 3D around the base, everything just looked so perfectly built. It looked so divine, creating an aura of peace and beauty something more to it than what just appears to eyes.

This became my favorite of all the places visited in the country.

Thimpu: Norzim Lam street shopping

We then drove to Famous street Norzin Lam to shop and get the taste of local food. Your trip to Thimpu would be definitely incomplete without visiting this popular hangout place for street food and Bhutanese delicacy. The street swarmed with locals and kids, several smiles I exchanged with disarmingly friendly people. It was lined with local craft shops, stalls and big shopping centres selling wooden bowls, masks, bamboo products, woven traditional clothes, bags and souvenirs.

After shopping, we went to local restaurant for lunch. I tried Ema Datshi which is strew made of cheese and chillies and any meal is incomplete in Bhutan without rice. In-fact Bhutanese sweet is also rice kheer. In most of dhabas unlimited rice would be served.

After visiting set of city attractions like national library, Takin zoo which is Bhutanese national animal and painting school we took our last stop for the day in Thimpu at the city centre.

Clock tower market had all fancy big shops and restaurants. This was the place where I finally saw little bit of traffic but again no traffic lights and the policeman controlling it perfectly. Here I spent most of my time at one small shop not because of shopping but because of a cute little 2 year old girl singing "Baa Baa black sheep have you any wool? Yes yes yes yes..." catching all our attention. She was very playful and naughty.

A long tired day ended with yummy meal and a deep sleep in freezing temperature.

Early morning we started for our next experience in Phobjikha and it was about 135 kms away crossing the old capital of city Punakha, so was a long journey to begin. Moving up in the mountains an expansive open sky, fluttering colorful prayer flags on each side , limitless greenery of huge pine trees, small monasteries and houses located atop the hills...what a magical air!! Crossing almost 20 kms reaching at 10,170 feet above we reached a beautiful mountainous pass connecting Thimpu and Punakha valleys.

Army memorial at Dochula Pass - At 10K feet high

The splendid pass has 108 stupas "Druk wangyal chortens" placed in three concentric circles built in memory of Bhutanese soldiers who lost their lives in war. First level has 45 Stupas, second level has 36 and inner one has 27 built all around main structure at the centre.

There is some serenity as I walked around the chortens, seems it permeated from the soul of departed ones who are at peace now. You will get to see 360 degrees panoramic view of snow capped mountains. It was chilling at 2 degrees, temperature dropped and soft snow started falling on our faces. Best place to experience chilly weather at such height.

Phobjikha Valley- The organic Bhutan

Long drive to Phobjikha, going to a Elevation of 11000 feet along zig-zag, round and round around the mountainous trail was so adventurous like a roller coaster ride. Place experiences heavy snow during Jan-Feb although we couldn't see the snow but there was huge dip in temperature compared to cities.

Phobjikha valley, Ravine in Bhutan is bowl shaped glacial valley bound by black mountains. After all fancy-city experiences we had, this was the village feel. We were lucky enough to see endangered species "Black neck crane" who migrates from Tibet to Bhutan during winters. It was a treat to watch them. The valley was so picturesque I was actually thinking what to click and what not! One can actually witness raw beauty of nature and people while travelling through the valley.

Being rural area you will mostly find Bhutanese farm houses or home stays as option. Our place was small made up of pinewood and stones with no wall color but Bhutanese architectural paintings. It looked very different and pleasant. There was no TV, no wifi, no modern amenities making it perfect place to unwind and relax. People here live a semi nomadic life and they were extremely welcoming.

Entire village had beautiful and colorful wooden houses. Our stay had an outdoor hot stone bath arrangement which is believed to cure joint pains and helps in relaxing mentally and physically. These stones are collected from river beds and are rich in all minerals which is heated on pinewood fire and put in wooden tub filled with water.

We met the nicest people here, Kinley Chukki and her staff, name which I will not forget while cherishing Bhutan memories. Tongue twister names with any random syllables silent and pronounced in Bhutanese accent, after making her to repeat twice what's the name I giggled and said water brand Kinley. They were perfect host for anyone making sure stay is convenient and delightful.

In freezing temperature they welcomed us with strong ginger tea with herbs. Food menu was small but it tasted simple and home like. We were relaxing at reception area after dinner , Kinley was sharing her experiences how difficult it is to survive in Phobjikha as the place has not gathered so much tourism yet and as she majorly belonged from capital city and due to job she has to stay here with her husband.

Since first day seeing all women girls kids wearing Kira, yes being females we enquired at almost every shop we visited in all these days and felt like buying but then it would be just one time wear in country. Our desire to get dressed up like them was very high. Casually we asked her whether can we get to buy the clothes at cheap rate in Phobjikha, what came up next is actually unexpected. She asked if we just want to get clicked then she has plenty of such dresses to share. She got us her royal kind of collection and helped us wearing Kira, Wangu and Tego and we clicked pictures together. It was great time spent together with girlie gang. Staff was also very nice treating their guest like god making sure to get us hot water accompanied with ginger so that our body is warm and freezing temperature wont affect any guest's health. Although there were no modern amenities but home like treatment was altogether different experience.

We started early around 8 am to leave for Punakha, all the staff members waiting outside reception were waving at us thanking for visiting. It was all overwhelming as they felt like one family.

Punakha dzong: The instragrammable Bhutan

Punakha, the old capital of the country and the most scenic destination being a winter residence for monastic body. Extremely perfect place to soak in the serene beauty of valley and the melody of Moo Chuu and Poo Chuu rivers.

Entire city is a canvas of rich colors and the culture is warmer than all other places giving us altogether a different experience to our journey. The most amazing visit here was a trek to Chimi Lhakhang which is known as Temple of Fertility. I have never heard of any temple or god worshipped as Fertility god. People from all over world come here and are blessed with newborns after praying to the deity "Drukpa Kunley". Kids born as result of prayers here are named as Chimi if boy and Kunley if girl.

Later in the noon we spent some time at the river bank. On the way we visited Majestic Punakha Dzong, palace of great bliss which is built at the confluence of two rivers the female river Moo Chhu very still and calm and the male river Poo Chhu all charged up and agitated. A cantilever bridge welcomed us, through which we walked to the entrance of palace.

There was a steep wooden staircase leading to monastery, tourist were only allowed to use left one. Here also a guide was along with bunch of travellers we entered in the first courtyard which had honey comb. They consider this as good luck sign and do not collect it till it falls on its own. Courtyards of dzong are referred as dorcheys, so this palace had 3 dorcheys. The second one was house of monks. Last passage leading to main temple is open to public and is flanked in very rich manner using shades of red, blue and gold. Gorgeous paintings adored the walls. Inside were big statues of dietes like Guru Padmasambhava, a 35 feet long statue of Lord Buddha along with his two disciples Shariputra and Moghliyana, Thrones of the King. King's coronation and marriage happened in Punakha Dzong, not this public temple but another sacred stupa open for only royals.

The guide further told us about Chief monk who has same power as king. He is with a belt and can hit anyone who does anything wrong in this space.

Everyone was now asked to visit the suspension bridge which was almost 20 mins walk from coutryard exit. Metallic bridge about 160 meters long perched high on the Poo Chhu river connecting town with Dzong. Drapped with colorful prayer flags, it was swinging due to wind and the crowd walking on it. It gave breath taking views of river beneath and the surrounding mountains. I stepped ahead on it and crossed with an adrenaline bump. It was such a beautiful and pleasing last day in Punakha. Also at almost end of trip with remaining days in Paro.

Paro- Hike to Taktsang\ Tiger's Nest

The most fascinating thing which happened to us in Paro was our place of stay offering amazing view of Paro valley. Path to this place was not properly built, a very narrow route leading to it. As we were struggling our way to it, a sweet coincidence happened and we met similar faces we shared smiles and talks with during our visit to the capital Thimpu. On arrival day almost everyone opted for rest as next morning was a trek to experience.

Paro Taktsang or Tiger's Nest monastery clings to a cliff which is 3120 meters above sea level. We reached to the base camp at around 8 am from where the ascend to the Taktsang monastery starts. Weather was very pleasant and cool. There were people selling climbing sticks and souvenirs at tax free price. Horses were available on rent to help you reach at the top if you can not trek but that looked more risky to me.

We started walking along the mountain trail, it was getting stepper and steeper and I could feel the increasing elevation. After an hour into this strenuous hike there we were at stopping point with an amazing view of Taktsang. There was a large spinning prayer wheel and prayer flags amidst shades of trees. Alongside this point there was dense forest lined up with Rhododendron, Pine and Oak trees. It gave the breathtaking view of Paro valley beneath. All this along with the serenity in the air makes this tedious hike worth all the effort. We started again, the monastery seemed to be appearing and disappearing along the trail in and out of trees and mists. As we hiked higher through beautiful views we reached a point where monastery was at same level but to reach the place we had to move down and then again climb up the 700 stairs.

Finally we reached to the cliff and entered in. Legend has it that Guru Rimpoche, flew to Taktsang back in the 8th Century AD on the back of a pregnant tigress. For three months, three days and three hours he meditated here what is today called the Taktsang Cave, before emerging in eight different incarnations. We spent sometime here taking in as much as we can before starting our descend.

The descend was easier and faster as expected. We returned to our hotel tired and our clothes and shoes covered in mud. We changed and relaxed for some time. Then there came the most needed part of the trip, the borne fire setup that all the visitors requested for. Of all days in the country this last day was made the most memorable with all fun games, singing and dancing around the fire warming us physically and calming us mentally in that freezing cold.

The Bhutan I am taking along

I liked the simplicity and the deep thoughts behind every aspect of life here. They believe so much in preserving their integrity and their culture. I was wondering people around the world are so high brand-freak and choosy with clothes and attire especially females while here everyone dressed up almost daily in traditional outfits. No one is in hurry, vehicles actually stop and wave you to go first if you are crossing the road on foot. No noise pollution with all the honking. Very warm yet disciplined people who worship the king and follow and obey him like a god. Education and hospitals are all free of cost and everyone believes in working hard. Even the concept of marriage is based on freedom of choice and kept simple with no show, when the couple decides to get married they just go to the court and have lawful one. Only royals and rich families throw some party after marriage.

The country is gifted with nature but their beliefs on not exploiting natural resources and preserving the beauty makes it different from all. They import most of the things from neighbouring countries. This densely preserved nature is attracting many bird species every year to migrate in Bhutan. They value integrity and dignity of labor. The Locals are extremely skilled in manufacturing amazing handi-crafts, woven clothes, paintings and wooden carvings. Bhutan is perhaps the most diverse place where traditional Buddhist culture has thrived due to its isolation from rest of the world.

Spiritual beautiful Bhutan is the land of spectacular sacred mountains, lush forested valleys, prayer wheels, Dzongs, fortified monasteries, rice, cheese and chillies, pine trees, mythical animals, colorful cities with fine architectural paintings, fluttering prayer flags, melted glaciers, love songs, simple happy contented people all around. These 8 days in little Bhutan has given me big experiences to cherish forever and urge to visit again.

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