The erstwhile French colony –Pondicherry, is a melting pot of vibrant South Indian culture with a smattering of French flavours. Perched on India’s east coast in Tamil Nadu, Pondicherry is adorned with Gallic landscapes of bougainvillea-draped colonial townhouses, pastel cafes and leafy boulevards. A haven for both the traveller in quest of adventure and spiritual awakening, and the leisure-seeking tourist, there's no dearth of places to visit in the lovely town. But by far, the best way to explore the city, is through the food that epitomise Pondicherry's past and present.
So after you have doused yourself in the tropical sunshine and surfed the waters of the Auroville Beach, here's your guide to some of the city's most charming cafés that will whip you up the most lush crème caramel and fluffiest of croissants.
Cafes in Pondicherry that leave little to imagination
Domus, translating to 'house' in Latin, is a melange of all things bizarre. Turquoise pillars and red walls invite you into this vegetarian café hidden in the quiet gardens of an eccentric design shop which boasts of antiquated paintings, 40s style lamps and other such rare objects. The items on sale are all curated from across the globe by Claude Dalmais, French proprietor and interior designer.
Serving up a range of organic and healthy fare, you can also create your own sandwich here with the desired choice of bread, seasoning and filling. An especially good spot to sit with your iced tea and unwind would be under the cool shade of the mango tree in the courtyard.
Where: 56, Rue Suffren Street
When: 10.00 am to 6.30 pm (open all days)
WiFi: Yes
Must-haves: Muesli breakfasts, European-salad thalis, the Financier dessert.
Cost for two: Rs 300
Where: 1, Labourdonnais Street
When: 8.30 am to 7.00 pm (closed on Wednesdays)
WiFi: Yes
Must-haves: Green smoothies, chocolate cake, Croque Monsieur, French crêpes, ratatouille and croissants.
Cost for two: Rs 700
Where: 54, La Bourdonnais Street
When: 12.00 - 3.00 pm, 7.00 -11.00 pm
WiFi: Yes
Must-haves: Salad niçoise, steak-frites, crème brûlée, lemon pie
Cost for two: Rs 1,000
Auroville's Well Cafe has an enticing assortment of Mediterranean food and vegan meals. An easy hike through forest trails leads you to this hidden cafe. The rustic charm of the seating area and the frequent events that are held at the cafe will keep you coming back for more. Well Cafe also partners with Well Paper, an initiative that aims to rehabilitate women affected by the tsunami.
Where: Opposite Upasana Auroshilpam, Auroville
When: 8.30 am to 4.00 pm
WiFi: Yes
Must-haves: Crème brûlée, seafood curry and idli-sambar.
Cost for two: Rs 500
A kitschy rickshaw parked in the front lawn. Pop-culture themed decor. A small hushed library. Cheery yellow walls illustrated with musicians sitting inside teacups and monkeys sitting on bicycles and flying elephants. This is what will welcome you when you step into the old French townhouse, refurbished into a quaint bohemian café. It also houses two shops – Nirvana and Cottonwood, selling all things Bollywood and Indian. The eatery is one of the best cafes in Pondicherry for the most authentic French food in town.
Where: 10, Suffren Street
When: 8.30 am to 7.00 pm (Closed only on Tuesdays)
WiFi: Yes
Must-haves: Waffles, masala chai, crepes, pancakes, hibiscus flower syrup with soda, and croque provençal.
Cost for two: Rs 800
Offering a slice of the authentic French way of life, Maison Perumal's open courtyards will let you witness the most magnificent of sunsets. The cafe is also decked with arched stained glass windows and Burma teak pillars that portray a French-Tamil melange. This is also embodied in their delectable fusion cuisine.
Where: 44, Perumal Koil Street
When: 9.00 am to 10.00 pm
Wifi: Yes
Must-haves: Coffee caramel and the cilantro fried fish
Cost for two: Rs 900
In the heart of the old French town lies Villa Shanti, a 19th century townhouse that has now been converted into an award-winning hotel. With minimalistic decor, the cafe offers a refreshing Grecian ambience to dine in. Most of their meals are prepared with organic produce.
Where: 14, Suffren Street, White Town
When: 12.00 - 2.30 pm, 7.00 pm - 10.30 pm
WiFi: Yes
Must-haves: Steak-frites, crêpes, crème brûlée, chocolate eclairs, masala prawns
Cost for two: Rs 1,500
The Traveller's Café is hidden inside La Casita, Centre of Latin American Art and Culture in Pondicherry. Offering sweeping views of the Kamatchi Aman Sanctuary and the entire town of Pondicherry, the housetop bistro also holds concerts and gigs incorporating Latin American music, motion picture screenings and workshops.
Where: 147, Eswaran Dharmaraja Kovil St
When: 11.00 am - 3.30 pm, 5.30 - 9.30 pm
Wifi: Yes
Must-have: Dimsums and the fried cheese empanadas
Cost for two: Rs 500
Taking you through a canopied avenue, the Artika Café Gallery beckons you with graffiti-etched walls and a fashion boutique. While it's one of the few quintessential French courtyard cafes in Pondicherry, some spectacular imagery can be seen all over the café interiors. A particularly zany mural of a half-man, half-woman on a playing card which is painted on the door to the entrance stays with you long after you've left the place. Go here for a healthy breakfast plate, or for a late lunch of some of the best basil pesto you've ever tasted.
Owned and run by French expat Pierre Elouard, this is one of those cafes in Pondicherry where the locals come to eat. With an open-air seating arrangement, the cafe serves a delicious concoction of French and Italian cuisines. Surrounded by lush green foliage and a thatched bamboo roof, go to this cafe for a warm, intimate experience.
Found more quirky cafes in Pondicherry that haven't been featured on our list? Tell us about them in the comments or write your very own travelogue on Tripoto!
Here's another list of stunning cafes in another Indian city to try!
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