If you are looking for a place to experience the rich and diverse history, culture, and resilience of Mumbai, look no further than Leopold Cafe. This iconic Irani cafe in Colaba is not only a popular spot for food and drinks, but also a witness and a survivor of many events that shaped the city and its people. From being a haunt for writers and artists, to being a setting for a bestselling novel, to being a target of a terror attack, Leopold Cafe has seen it all and still stands strong. In this article, we will explore the fascinating story of Leopold Cafe, and why you should visit it on your next trip to Mumbai.
The Origin and Evolution of Leopold Cafe
Leopold Cafe was founded in 1871 by an Iranian immigrant named Nanabhoy Kohinoor, who came to Mumbai in search of a better life. He started as an oil vendor, but soon realized that there was a demand for tea and snacks among the locals. He converted his oil store into a cafe, and named it after the Belgian king Leopold II, who was known for his colonial exploits in Africa. The name was also a tribute to Kohinoor’s wife, who was of Belgian origin.
The cafe soon became a success, and Kohinoor expanded it to include a bakery, a restaurant, and a bar. He also designed a logo for the cafe, which featured a lion and a rising sun, symbolizing the Iranian heritage and culture of the owner. The cafe was passed on to Kohinoor’s sons, and then to his grandsons, who still run it today.
Over the years, Leopold Cafe has undergone many changes and transformations, but it has always retained its charm and character. It has become a popular hangout for writers, artists, journalists, and travellers, who come to enjoy the food, the ambiance, and the conversations. Some of the famous personalities who have visited or worked at Leopold Cafe include Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham, Indira Gandhi, Raj Kapoor, and Shashi Tharoor.
The Atmosphere and Menu of Leopold Cafe
Leopold Cafe is located in the heart of Colaba, a bustling and vibrant district of Mumbai that is home to many attractions, such as the Gateway of India, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, and the Colaba Causeway. The cafe is easy to spot, thanks to its red and yellow sign and its large windows that offer a view of the street.
As you enter the cafe, you will be greeted by a friendly and attentive staff, who will guide you to a table of your choice. The cafe has a cozy and casual atmosphere, with wooden furniture, antique clocks, vintage posters, and ceiling fans. The cafe also has a jukebox that plays a mix of old and new songs, adding to the lively and nostalgic mood.
The menu of Leopold Cafe is as diverse and eclectic as the city itself. It offers a variety of cuisines and dishes, such as Iranian, Indian, Chinese, and continental. You can find everything from tea and toast, to biryani and beer, to brownies and apple pie. The portions are generous, the prices are reasonable, and the taste is delicious. Some of the best or signature items to try at Leopold Cafe are:
The Irani chai, a strong and sweet tea that is served in a glass and accompanied by a bun maska, a soft bread with butter.
The chicken tikka masala, a spicy and creamy curry that is served with rice or naan bread.
The Leopold special vegetarian pizza, a thin crust pizza topped with cheese, mushrooms, olives, and capsicum.
The chocolate brownie, a moist and rich cake that is served with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce.
The Kingfisher beer, a refreshing and popular Indian lager that is served in a large bottle.
Leopold Cafe and Shantaram
One of the reasons why Leopold Cafe is famous around the world is because of its connection to the novel Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts. Shantaram is a semi-autobiographical book that tells the story of an Australian fugitive who escapes from prison and flees to Mumbai, where he lives a life of adventure, romance, and crime. The book was published in 2003, and became a bestseller and a cult classic, with millions of fans and admirers.
Leopold Cafe plays a prominent role in Shantaram, as it is the place where the protagonist, Lin, meets and befriends many of the characters who shape his journey, such as Prabaker, Karla, Abdullah, and Didier. The cafe is also the place where Lin experiences some of the most memorable and dramatic moments of his life, such as falling in love, witnessing a murder, and surviving a raid. The book portrays the cafe as a microcosm of Mumbai, where people from different backgrounds, cultures, and walks of life come together and share their stories, dreams, and passions.
Leopold Cafe has become a must-visit destination for fans of Shantaram, who want to see and experience the place that inspired and featured in the book. The cafe has a dedicated section for Shantaram, where you can find copies of the book, posters, photos, and memorabilia. You can also buy a copy of the book from the cafe, and get it signed by the author, who often visits the cafe and interacts with his fans.
Leopold Cafe and the 2008 Attacks
Another reason why Leopold Cafe is famous and respected is because of its resilience and defiance in the face of terror. On November 26, 2008, Mumbai was rocked by a series of coordinated terror attacks, that targeted several locations across the city, such as hotels, railway stations, and hospitals. Leopold Cafe was one of the first targets of the attackers, who stormed into the cafe and opened fire, killing and injuring several people, including staff and customers.
The attack left a deep scar on the cafe, as it suffered extensive damage and loss. The cafe was closed for four days, as the police and the forensic teams investigated the scene. The cafe reopened on November 30, 2008, with bullet holes and blood stains still visible on the walls and furniture. The cafe did not try to hide or erase the evidence of the attack, but rather displayed it as a reminder and a tribute to the victims and the survivors.
The reopening of Leopold Cafe was a symbol of the courage and the spirit of the cafe and its staff, who refused to be intimidated or silenced by the terror. It was also a symbol of the solidarity and the support of the people of Mumbai and the world, who visited and patronized the cafe as a gesture of respect and tribute. The cafe became a place of healing and hope, where people came to pay their respects, to share their grief, and to celebrate their life.
Leopold Cafe is more than just a cafe. It is a place of history, culture, and resilience. It is a place where you can enjoy a delicious meal, a refreshing drink, and a lively conversation. It is a place where you can learn about the past, the present, and the future of Mumbai and its people. It is a place where you can feel the pulse and the soul of the city.
If you are planning to visit Mumbai, make sure to include Leopold Cafe in your itinerary. You will not regret it. You will love it.
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