Agra - Land of the Taj #HistoricalGems

Well! The pandemic is still here; no surprises at all and I took another short trip which may as well not surprise anyone who have read my previous blogs, to be honest I have travelled more during the pandemic than I used to before. I had never been to Agra but it had always been there in my travel list and one Friday evening I just decided to visit the city and utilize the long weekend.

After winding up the work, I swiftly booked the train tickets to Agra and left for the station to board Shaan-e-Bhopal Express. It was mid February, the winter season was dissipating hence presenting the perfect season to visit Agra. I was travelling solo and it was just a one day trip so packing a bag was not required, I was just carrying my small travel pack for some essentials. I had already booked my tickets for the Taj Mahal (due to pandemic, only online ticketing is available) and was advised to visit the place early morning only to avoid the crowds. I was resting on the berth imagining about the pictures I will be clicking, how will be the light for photography, where will I visit, in general I was not able to sleep because of my crazy imagination. But things don't usually go as you plan and in my case they never go as planned!

I reached Agra early in the morning and it welcomed me with a hug of dense fog, which I was not expecting at all. My plans were in peril but I was hopeful that in some time the fog will go away and will present a beautiful clear day. Keeping my spirits up, I decided to carry on and left the Agra Cantt station; the next thing I found myself surrounded by a swarm of rickshaw-walas offering me various packages to visit the city or to drop to a nearby hotel. After saying no many times and keeping my temper in check, I finally escaped and walked outside the station to get a cup of tea.

After the tea break, I managed to get an auto and asked him to drop me to the East Gate of Taj Mahal, as he started driving, the salesman in him came alive and I was again bombarded with offers and hotel advises, I told him just drop me to the Taj. It was still very early in the morning, the fog situation and the auto guy was starting to get on my nerves. Finally, I reached the East Gate entry and as expected the crowd was minimal, after security checks I entered the Taj complex still expecting a miracle that fog will disappear.

Standing in front of Darwaza-i-Rauza and staring at the colossal gateway, I was wondering how in the world did they pull off and created this wonder in the 16th century. I entered from the gate and there was a white sheet of dense fog in the front, the task was to locate the Taj Mahal now. I stood there for a while observing the water channels that were inter-connected across the Mughal gardens and that made me think about the Humayun's Tomb which inspired the architecture of the Taj Mahal. I walked further but Taj was still not in sight, the fog was not going away and there was no sign of proper sunshine. I had the entry tickets to the main mausoleum, so I got the shoe covers mandatory to enter the tomb.

Now, I could see the outlines of the architecture as I was roaming around looking at the minarets which were still not fully visible. After taking a couple of rounds, I entered the mausoleum. I stood and observed the place, everything in white with precious stones and various exquisite carvings. It was enthralling and the calmness inside was giving a different kind of a vibe.

I came out of the mausoleum and walked towards a corner facing Yamuna; gazing at the sun hidden behind the mist, shying away from coming out, I was dejected. A couple was standing close and the guy asked me to click their picture to which I complied and after some pictures we got into conversation, the guy told me that they were in the city for a couple of hours only and had to leave soon, his fiancé was disappointed because their Valentine's plan was ruined.

They left bidding goodbye and I was just sitting on the bench staring at the invisible monument in front of myself. Round 1 of the Taj Mahal was ending here.

I spent some time there and then left the Taj complex and decided to visit the Agra Fort also known as Lal Qila, the fort was the residence of Mughals before they shifted their capital to Delhi.

I love forts because they represent history, they have witnessed many great emperors, wars, bloodsheds and celebrations and visiting them makes you relive that history.

I entered the fort from the Akbar Darwazza also known as Amar Singh Gate and started exploring the fort on my own, as usual guides came up to me advising to take their services to which my reply was a simple "No". I was informed by a guard that major portion of fort has been closed due to pandemic and maintenance work by the authorities so, it won't take me more than an hour or so to explore the fort.

I had plenty of time in my hands so there was no need to rush also, I covered almost the entire fort open to public and Diwan-e-Aam or Hall of Audience caught my eye purely because of the architecture, it is a spectacular combination of finesse and design. Diwan-e-Aam was basically a hall where the emperor held public meetings to attend to their problems or requests, the multi pillared hall created a symmetry so beautiful that I spent a good 30 minutes looking at that before leaving the premises.

The sun was finally out, fog had also vanished and now it was time for Round-2 of the Taj Mahal.

I re-booked the tickets while having breakfast and entered the Taj complex again from East Gate but by now the place was filled with large crowds. I did not think about it much as my only motivation now was to at least see the monument. I entered from Darwaza-i-Rauza again which was now bathing in the sunshine but now I could eventually see the Taj from the arched gateway. Round-2 had paid-off, the majestic Taj Mahal was in front of my eye. I stood there looking at the glimmering white marble structure in complete awe and I was possessed by its beauty.

After clicking many pictures, I found an empty bench and sat there just admiring the unmatchable beauty of the Taj when some thoughts pierced my mind. I had noticed the Yamuna river which flows adjacent to the Taj but the condition of the river was grim, it had narrowed and was severely polluted.

The river was stagnant and I was just wondering what might have led to this condition; Yamuna is an integral part of Taj, without Yamuna the structural integrity of the Taj comes at risk.

We worship our rivers, call them "Mother" and at the same time defile them without thinking about any consequences. I am not sure if the local authorities had done any work on it but the river needs to be re-stored at least for the sake of being an important element to the wonder of the world.

I collected my thoughts and decided to head out stealing a final glimpse of the Taj Mahal that will always remain with me.

But, a coin has two sides and the same applies for the city of Agra. Just keep in mind these 2 things when you are visiting:

1. If you have booked an auto rickshaw for the entire day they usually take you to shops claiming they sell finest of souvenirs like fabrics, art pieces etc. Please decline that offer straight away, they are touts working on commission.

2. If you have hired a guide, he will also do the same by taking you to marble shops and their owners will claim that their ancestors were employed during the construction of the Taj Mahal but God only knows what's the truth, they will try and sell you over priced stuff but stay away!

It was a bitter sweet trip for me, I might not have liked the city but I fell in love with the Taj Mahal. If you are reading this and have not visited Agra, just go! Plan something out and go see the Taj Mahal, it is without a doubt one of the most beautiful structures in the world.