The trip is scheduled from Dimapur to Imphal. It will be covering Kohima, Khonoma, the first green village , Japfu peak, the second highest peak of Nagaland. Infact , on which the tallest rhododendron...yes, mentioned in the Guinness book of world record , Dzouku valley and then Mau, the home land of world 's hottest chillies, 'ghost pepper, again a Guinness book record holder. Finally to Loktak lake , the floating lake.
Dimapur to Kohima takes arround 2hrs and road is quite good. The live stock market near my hotel was full of frogs, insects, silkworm and eel. It is a life time experience. Had some pork momo and it was delicious. Dinner must have to be taken before 8 , other wise resturant will be closed . Tried some local menu, SMOKED PORK ANISHI. It is made from fermented yam. Iam telling you, its mouth watering!
The city, Kohima , sleeps quite early. By 6pm shops get closed and by 8 its midnight. Even the hotel exit was locked at 08:30. On the other hand, the city starts moving by morning 6 and become busy by 8.
The smart City of Kohima is very clean. Forget about gutkha stains, there is no cigarette butts even. Had a morning exploration in Kohima and left for Khonoma, the first green village of Asia. The road can be better named as roller coaster. Too bad. However, before catching the car, visited the World war II war cemetery of 2300 soldiers. Heart breaking.
One have to get an entry pass before entering Khonoma . The village is picturesque, calm and quite. Boarded the lone hotel, Dovepie Inn. Had lunch with some pork noodles. Got hold of the camera and started exploration of the village. It's mind soothing. Birds twirkling . Strong breeze. Walking through the paved rocks. Hearing stories from villagers. Infact they are very smooth in english. Now is the plantation season. Aloo, gazar, beans, etc.
Nagaland is a land of 16 trib es. Angani tribe is in this area. Once they use to be very strong. They resist the British for almost four decades. Hunting is considered to be very sacred in this tribe. In one of its festival, to show pride, wild Mithuns were hunted, now the state animal of Nagaland. After the cover sion of the Nagas to Christi anity, they have become non violent and disciplined. Choose farming as the mode of living.
Clear weather. Ideal time for stargazing. Ordered some local dinner, chicken with bamboo shoot. Feeling in heaven.
The day started very early. Bus to Kohima leaves at 6am. I cannot spare the bus as hired taxi is very costly. Reached Kohima at 7:30. Had breakfast. My trekking guru always says " Paharo me jab vi khana miley, pel ke kha lo. Kon jane kob mile na mile". Had some dalpuri in a Bihari resturant. My Kolkata's dalpuri is nowhere near to it. The taste is unquestionable.
From BOC stand it took an hour to reach Kigwema by a shared sumo. Got a warm welcome from the land lady of the homestay. Infact, she, Mrs. Rovi, was the only person who guided me over phone when i was in Kolkata. Very decent and well behaved middle aged lady. Two sisters own this place.
As it was only 9:30, i planned to trek to Kisama village, the Naga heritage village, before having lunch.
Kisama is a model village basically to preserve and promote the culture and tradition of the Naga people. I didn't find any residential house in the village. The name is an amalgamation of two villages Kigwema and Phesama. It is at the outskirts of both the villages. It is the place where the famous hornbill festival takes place. A nice place to know about the traditional huts of different tribes of Nagaland.
Time for lunch now. Already ordered some pork. The menu was like rice, dal, aloo fry, papar, achar and pork. She made pork with some local gayei leaves. The pork was the best i had so far. The leaves have a sour taste somewhat like a tomato. The achar is also from a local bean called youcha. In dessert she gave me ground apple. Very sweet. Never seen before, forget taste.
Stomach full. Can't miss the cultural dinner. So, had a long walk through the Kigwema village fields. There i met a boy at the tea shop. Very cheerful. He said Kigwema means a place for whoever occupied. It has got a long history. In WW II times , this place used to be of the Japanese. That Japanese were far more well behaved than the British. Then i asked him about the market price. Chicken 200₹/kg, pork 300₹/kg, mutton 700₹/kg, dog meat 600₹/kg. Yes dog meat. Infact I have ordered for tomorrow's dinner. Need to taste their delicacy. Today i have ordered some dried beef, let's see how it tastes.
Tomorrow's plan is to trek to Japfu peak. The second highest peak of Nagaland. Thinking to move on without guide. Purely adventurous.
.......to be continued on second part
