The Queen's Temple Town!!

A small quintessential town in the heart of India on the banks of the oldest known river in the Nimar region of Madhya Pradesh.

Maheshwar magnificently situated on the north bank of the holy Narmada on the confluence of cultures of Gujarat, Maharashtra and Malwa.

Possesses a treasure trove of beautiful temples that calm the soul, alongside man-made creations that please the eyes!

Key to comprehending any destination lies in tapping into its life force and understanding that first, in this case the River Narmada.

A beautiful temple town which has been associated with Mahishmati, the ancient capital of King Kartivirarjun, a spectacular temple city mentioned in the Ramayana and Mahabharata epics. Its importance is described in Puranas and through history!

It is believed that Lord Shiva is worshipped where the Narmada flows because he is the only idol of inner peace to calm her, she was born from his tear drop! She is also known as "Shankari".

He is present in the smooth cylindrical-shaped stones called "Banalinga" on the riverbed. The town's special spiritual significance draws pilgrims and Hindu holy men in plenty. Ahilya Ghat is the most prominent place of worship on the River Narmada.

Maheshwar is visited by many as part of the Narmada Parikrama ~ a lengthy circumambulation of the river from its source at Amarkantak to the sea and back, stopping at as many temples as possible on the way.

It is said that of the five most sacred rivers of India – Ganga, Yamuna, Narmada, Godavari and Kaveri – Narmada is the holiest. It is also said that when Ganga herself feels unclean, she takes the form of a black cow, and using the darkness of the night as her cover, comes to cleanse herself in the waters of the Narmada.

Some say she is both "nar " - male and "mada" - female, others believe she is called Narmada because she is "narm" - soft bestowing a feeling of peace on the beholder! Her popular name Rewa is derived from Rewati or her leaping motion through the rocky bed.

The city was significantly developed by the legendary 18th century Holkar Queen Rani Ahilyabai of Indore who moved the seat of her kingdom to Maheshwar, south of Indore on the Narmada River and ruled from here from 1765 and until her death in 1796. At the height of her rule, Devi Ahilyabai controlled half of Madhya Pradesh!

Maratha leader from the Holkar dynasty, her father in law was Malhar Rao Holkar, the dynasty's founder.

Malhar Rao Holkar was succeeded by his daughter-in-law Ahilyabai Holkar, one of the greatest women in Indian history!

The Holkar State began in 1740, founded by Malhar Rao Holkar, and it is alive today in Ahilya Fort.

She built the splendid 18th century Maratha architecture based fort complex or Ahilya Wada here on a hill beside the river, to be close to the Narmada River and Lord Shiva, she was his ardent devotee, as well as several picturesque temples and ghats which line the river banks.

My trip to Maheshwar was not planned, my mother and I were travelling to Mandu from Indore after doing pooja at Omkareshwar.

We stopped by at Maheshwar for awhile and I am so happy for that!

Maheshwar is an industrial town and the main attraction here is the Ahilya Fort!

A centre of handloom weaving since the 5th century, Maheshwar has been producing the exquisite Maheshwari sarees and fabric, a delicate cotton and silk blend handloom!

The town also holds the distinction of being the capital of Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar's empire during the 18th century. She made the Maheshwari sarees famous by wearing them, and gifting them to dignitaries who came to meet her!

Ahilyabai's capital at Maheshwar was a thriving scene for literary, musical, artistic, sculptural and industrial enterprise.

This historic town weaves spirituality and folklore with the beauty of nature and Maheshwari sarees, bringing alive a child-like awe in you!

The magnificent Holkar Fort dominates the landscape of Maheshwar, sitting high above the sacred Narmada. The formidable walls of Maheshwar Fort are pierced by five gateways, the main one being the Ahilya Dwar. The other important entrance to the fort is through the Kamani Darwaza on the northern side through which we entered leaving the modern world behind and stepping into the old walled city of Maheshwar to reach the huge gate of the Devi Ahilyabai Holkar Palace or Rajwada.

The Palace and Rajwada inside the fort is a must see place in Maheshwar. It is from here Ahilyabai use to sit for administration and justice for all.

On the Rajgadi there is a sitting statue of Rajmata Ahilyabai Holkar with a Shivling in her hand.

Rajwada area is like a courtyard of a large house, surrounded by pillared verandah on all sides, is marked with small scattered religious shrines, along with a couple of cannons.

The palanquin of Ahilya Bai is displayed at the entrance of the two storeyed wooden building.

The rooms on the upper floor served as the Royal residence and those on the lower were meant for guests.

The verandah on the lower floor houses a small museum displaying objects used by Ahilya Bai, from swords shields and objects of daily use.

Prime attraction is the Rajgaddi or throne of Ahilya Bai.

What awed me was her royal court and residence for their absolute simplicity!

The simple throne reminds one of the simplicity of the great queen!!

Such a erudite, just and enlightened ruler who cared for her people. She never observed purdah and was accessible to all those who needed her. During her glorious reign Rani Ahilyadevi's innumerable contributions made her a beloved and respected queen amongst her people in a prospering kingdom!

Her magnificent and glorious rule ended when she passed away in 1796.

In memory and honor of her greatness, the Republic of India issued a commemorative stamp on 25 August 1996.

Lingarchan Puja is a ritual followed at the Fort everyday since the time of Queen Ahilya Bai , as she was a devout Lord Shiva devotee. In her time 101 priests performed daily blessings for the entire population of the Holkar State.

Now 11 Brahmins make fifteen thousand Shivlings out of earth, do a puja and immerse them in the River.

Today we cannot forget the accomplishments of Ahilyabai. The transformation of Indore from a village to a beautiful city. The many Forts, roads, temples, tanks, wells and rest houses constructed by her across India.

Kashi, Gaya, Dwarka, Rameshwaram, Mathura, Kanchi, Badrinath are some of the places developed by her.

I salute the spirit of Ahilya Bai and the way she handled her kingdom in a patriarchal society! She made her own identity at a time when women were merely confined to their homes!!

A double storeyed gateway, directly opposite the main entrance to the Rajwada, leads to a flight of steps that brings one closer to the Narmada ghat. It is from this gateway that one can see the panoramic views and the majestic Narmada River!

Several stone steps take you down to the Ahilya Parisar, a magnificent complex that houses temples with towering shikars and intricately carved domes and long corridors with floral and animal motifs, and cenotaphs, the carvings are exquisite beautiful!! These motifs are woven on Maheshwar sarees too!

Antiquity aside, what strikes you first about the fortress especially if you were to look at it from across the river is the sheer height of its walls.

The walls of the massive Maheshwar / Ahilya Fort rise straight out of the Narmada River to a height of more than 30 metres. The Fort is approached from the Narmada River through a massive arched gateway and a long flight of stairs. On top of the gateway are sculptured figures of musicians. The gateway leads to the Ahilya Parisar. The cenotaph or chattri of Ahilya Bai built by her daughter in law Krishnabai resembles a temple than a cenotaph. It is known as Ahilyeshwar Shivalaya, as it's inner sanctum contains a Shivlinga, along with a statue of Ahilya Bai.

It is next to impossible to capture Maheshwar Fort's grandeur and beauty in photographs!

I was left spell bound!! Maheshwar's temple and mighty fort complex stand in quiet beauty, mirrored in the river below!!

While standing on the ghat, one structure that is bound to intrigue is a tiny little temple straddling an island right in the middle of the Narmada.

Baneshwar Shiva temple accessible only by boat and that too if the currents are just right, is of great cosmological significance. It is believed that this temple is located on the meridian connecting the centre of the earth with the mathematically significant pole star or Dhruvtara.

Maheshwar is a prominent port of call on the Narmada Hindu Pilgrimage Circuit, but well off the regions tourist trail!

In the year 2000 Shrimant Shivaji Rao(Richard) Holkar her descendant and son of the last Maharaja of Indore, converted his home in Ahilya Wada to a boutique hotel known as Ahilya Fort Hotel.

He also set up REHWA a non profit organization, manufacturing unit near the fort 40 years ago, to keep the tradition of Maheshwari sarees alive!!

Maheshwar is 90km from Indore and 220km from Bhopal.

The nearest airport is in Indore.

Buses ply regularly from Indore to Maheshwar.

A car is the preferred way to go.

If you’re willing to spend, there can be no better option than the Ahilya Fort Heritage Hotel – the erstwhile residence of the Holkars.

A moderately priced option is the Labboo’s Cafe and Lodge just outside the fort, once a soldiers’ den to protect the Ahilya Fort.