'So, what are you going to do two weeks in Madhya Pradesh? Any relatives you are visiting?'
This was one question which got continuously thrown at us whenever we mentioned about our planned road trip to the heart of India.
'Is it even worth visiting MP, what will you do, MP in March are you out of your mind,etc?'
As a couple who loves to travel, and are admirers of history and architecture we had read in fragmented articles about the wonder this state has offer. And oh boy, little did we expect this would turn out to be one of the best road trips we have taken till date.
Why Madhya Pradesh
Situated in the middle of the mighty Indian subcontinent and part of the ancient Bharat’s trade silk route, the strategically important, culturally rich & naturally gifted Madhya Pradesh was always a prime target for conquest.
During the ancient period, the region was governed by mighty empires like the Nanda Empire, the Maurya Empire, and the Gupta Empire.
The medieval period saw the rise of Rajput clans including the Parmar and Chandela clans, the latter is known for constructing the temples of Khajuraho. The Malwa Sultanate also ruled during this period.
The modern period in Madhya Pradesh saw the rise of the Mughal and Maratha empires. The Maratha empire included one of the golden periods for this region which included the rule of Devi Ahilyabai Holkar.
Later, the British Empire with the British princely states of Gwalior (The Scindia’s), Indore, and Bhopal, were a part of modern Madhya Pradesh.
Today, Madhya Pradesh boasts of the rich legacy which has been preserved with intentional efforts and is home to 3 of the UNESCO world heritage sites Sanchi, Bhimbetka and Khajuraho. For the love of heritage and culture and food we planned for a Road trip from Mumbai across Madhya Pradesh to cover these beautiful masterpieces which mark a golden era gone by. Along the journey we captured these in our lens and our hearts, which will be cherished for a lifetime
Below mentioned is our planned and executed road trip. We are very thankful to the lovely people we met along the way, who ensured we got only the best of experiences.
Map of road trip:
We started our road trip from Mumbai, hence the trip has been adjusted accordingly.
Road trip details
Day-1: Mumbai to Maheshwar
Distance: 530 Km | Time taken: 11 Hours(including stops)
Hotel: MPT Narmada Resort, Maheshwar(Recommendation: Yes)
About Maheshwar
Maheshwar, located in south western Madhya Pradesh, is probably one of the most atmospheric and magical villages in Madhya Pradesh. The fort and many-tiered temples situated on the banks of the sacred Narmada River are stunning.
In the late eighteenth century, Maheshwar served as the capital of the great Maratha queen Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar. She embellished the city with many buildings and public works, and it is home to her palace, as well as numerous temples, a fort, and riverfront ghats (broad stone steps which step down to the river.
Ancient texts tell that this is the centre of the Universe, the axis that connects the earth with the polar star.
Views from the fort extend for miles over the impressively wide water course and the endless plains beyond. A walk through the fort and temples down to the river takes you down to the ghats. The temples along the ghats are dedicated to the avatars of Lord Shiva.
Interestingly, Bollywood movie Padman and Sonakshi Sinha also danced for her movie Tevar at this elegant location.
Check out Sai Car Family Dhaba at Malegaon for lunch. The Puran Poli are to die for.
Guide details at Maheshwar:
It is advised to book at guide at Maheshwar to understand the importance of the location. We had a lovely guide, Mr. Sunilsai Kewat, Ph: 9009090426. He charges 500-600 INR but is much more worth than that. For early morning boat ride to ghat, please connect with Mr. Rajesh Kewat, Ph: 8839242938
Day-2: Explore Maheshwar, go to Mandu, night at Indore
Why Mandu?
Mandu or Mandav literally meaning the City of Joy is a small town in the state of Madhya Pradesh in India, now best known for a fort built by Baaz Bahadur in the memory of his queen Rani Roopmati.
Between 1401 and 1561 it was the an important citadel of a Muslim rulers of central and north India. The citadel was abandoned more than 400 years ago, and it's now a town city but also home to a large ruins site more than 10 km long and 15 km wide. The temple dedicated to Shiva also attracts many pilgrims.
Royal Enclave Group, a collection of palaces built by various rulers around three tanks. The highlight is the multi-level Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace), which apparently used to house Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din-Khilji's substantial harem women. It appears evocatively illuminated on moonlit nights.
The Rewa Kund Group lies a few miles to the south, and is made up of Baz Bahadur's Palace and Roopmati's Pavilion. This spectacular sunset spot overlooks the valley and river below.
Guide: When you reach Mandu, just visit tourist center/restaurant located at Malwa Retreat or Malwa Resort. There they have displayed list of guides with guided tour plans and rates. over a year ago. When you reach Mandu, just visit tourist center/restaurant located at Malwa Retreat or Malwa Resort
Alternately, we also suggest you to connect with the guide we hired. Good knowledgable guide, Mr. Ajay,ph: 9754256656
Leave Mandu at 5.30PM to reach Indore by 8.30PM.
Sarafa Bazaar at night
The streets behind Rajwada in Indore are crowded jewellery Market in the daytime and hence name Sarafa Bazaar which started in early 19th century, however, no one is sure of the origin of the night food bazaar. Some believe it started some 100 years back and was encouraged by jewellery shop owners so that their shops were secured even post midnight. With this in mind they willingly started offering front space of their shop to food vendors and thus Night Food Bazar came in existence ensuring the streets are empty only for few hours in the early morning.
Leave for Gwalior by 7AM. Reach by 5 PM at Gwalior.
Stay at: Taj Usha Kiran
A stay at Taj Usha Kiran is itself part of the itinerary. A palace converted to a hotel, Taj Usha Kiran Palace has played host to the Prince and Princess of Wales and is now a heritage hotel. Set amidst 9 acres of beautifully landscaped lawns, this 135 year old regal palace, rich in history, is outfitted with artistic stone carvings and delicate filigree work. Conveniently located, the hotel has 40 beautiful rooms including Villas with private pool and suites, a dining room truly reminiscent of royalty.
Bateshwar, Garhi Padavali & Chausth Yogini Mandir
The Bateshwar Hindu temples are a group of nearly 200 sandstone Hindu temples and their ruins in north Madhya Pradesh in post-Gupta, early Gurjara-Pratihara style of North Indian temple architecture. It is about 35 kilometres north of Gwalior and about 30 kilometres east of Morena town.
There is no other way to describe the location other than spectular !!!!!
Chausath Yogini Temple, Mitaoli
According to an inscription dated to 1323 CE (Vikram Samvat 1383), the temple was built by the Kachchhapaghata king Devapala (r. c. 1055 – 1075). It is said that the temple was the venue of providing education in astrology and mathematics based on the transit of the Sun. The temple is said to have been referred whle designing the Indian parliament house.
Though there are no official guides here, you can connect with Mr. Pavan,Ph: 8717918902. He will help guide you to the location and also give basic information about the location.
Garhi Padavali
Retun back to Gwalior and visit the Gwalior fort
Gwalior Fort
If you go by local legends, this majestic fort was constructed in 3rd CE, and was the brainchild of the then ruling emperor Raja Suraj Sen Pal. According to the same legend, the name of the fort was coined in honour of the sage ‘Gwalipa’ who helped cure the king’s leprosy affliction.
The interesting story of Gwalior Fort does not end here. Did you know that this is one of the most historic forts in Northern and Central India? It was not only ruled by the family of Suraj Sen, who was probably a Kachchhapaghata, but changed hands many times throughout history. Some historical accounts confirm that during the 16th century, the family lost possession of this fort and it was acquired by the Mughals and later by Marathas for a certain period.
Definite recommend to take a guide at Gwalior Fort, we had a decent guide who explained us the entire history of the fort, Mr. Mohan Badhoriya, ph: 8602019683
Visit HH Maharaja Sir Jiwajirao Scindia Museum in morning and then leave for Orchaa.
Definite recommend a guide, unfortunately do not recollect the name of our guide or his contact details in this case.
HH Maharaja Sir Jiwajirao Scindia Museum
To expereince a taste of the rich lifetyle of the royal families of India, do give this muesum a definite visit. It still houses many architectural marvels and a glimpse of the majestic wealth that our country used to have.
Orchaa
Stay at : MPT Sheesh Mahal(Definite recommend)
Take guide from Hotel- MPT Sheesh Mahal , we hired Mr. Sunil: 7000482377 who is recommended
Within 4 hours you would have seen the Raja Mahal, Jahangir Mahal, and Sheesh Mahal (which also has Sheesh Mahal hotel as a part of it). Each of them is an architectural gem! There is lot of climbing and walking, so ensure to carry loads of water and caps.
Entry Fee: 10INR for Indians, 250INR for Foreigners 25INR for Camera, 200INR for Video and 100INR for Sound and Light Show.
Chaturbhuj Temple Orchha
Stand anywhere in the town of Orchha the grand Chaturbhuj Temple is visible and is often a reference point for directions around. The temple was built to house the idol of Lord Rama but after some strange twist of incidents the idol of Lord Ram remained in Raja Ram Temple nearby. In place of Lord Ram, an idol of Lord Vishnu was installed in Chaturbhuj Temple. It was constructed on a colossal platform, hence it gets the elevation. The roof top of this temple offers majestic views of the town around.
Raja Ram Mandir Orchha
This is a sacred place for Hindus. Here Lord Ram is worshiped as a King and not as an avatar of Lord Vishnu. He is depicted as a king, has a sword in his right hand and a shield in the other. By all means you can enter following proper dress code. A Guard of Honor by local policemen for King Ram is held every day. Time yourself to witness this ceremonial event and also the mesmerizing evening Aarti offered. The facade is plain compared to the rich interior which was Rani Mahal, queen’s palace a part of the Orchha Fort Complex. No photography is permitted inside.
Popular belief is that if worshipers look at the left foot’s big toe then their wish gets fulfilled!
Lakshmi Narayan temple Orchha
For architecture lovers, history buffs and the spiritually inclined this temple is a must visit. A mix of fort and temple elements, this is a geometrical wonder. It has an octagonal central tower residing within a triangular temple and housed in a square compound. I am sure this has got you interested. All the above 3 temple are located within walking distances from each other and can be done in a span of 3 hours unless you really want to linger on at any one of the temples for a longer period of time.
End the day with evening aarti at Raja Ram Mandir
We decided to give Datia Palace a miss as we were tired and behind schedule, but can be explored. We instead headed straight to Khajuraho.
Khajuraho is a small town and part of the Bundelkhand region in Madhya Pradesh. It is most famous for its Hindu and Jain temples. These temples have been declared as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO for their beautiful and mesmerizing rock carvings. It is perfect for both, the religiously inclined, as well as the history buffs.
Khajuraho
Stay at: Ramada Khajuraho (we had booked MPT Jhankar, however were not satisfied with the cleanliness levels or the staff there)
Guide: Mr. Govind, Ph: 9425144050, a definite recommed
Place to eat: Raja Cafe. We were mighty impressed by the restaurant and probably had every meal at the place. Will definitely recommed you this place for a backpacker vibe and tranquil experience in Khajuraho
Kandariya Mahadev Temple
The temple complex takes over an area of 6 square kilometres. It is located on the western part of the village and to the west of the Vishnu temple. It is built on an elevation of 282 metres and is the biggest among the three groups of the Khajuraho temple complexes.
Lakshman Temple
The structure is a mixture of all the facets of a typical Hindu temple architecture. It has an entrance porch that is commonly referred to as the ardha-mandapa. It also has a maha-mandapa, an Antarala, and a pretty fascinating Garbhagriha. Unlike other temples found here, Lakshman temple’s sanctum is a sculpture of Pancharatha. Its shikhara is thronged by minuscule urushringas. Must See / Things Do:: The Narasimha Sculpture, the damaged Varaha Sculpture, and the Devi Killing Mahishasura Sculpture are some of the most beautiful ones here
Devi Jagadamba Temple
Devi Jagdamba temple was also declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Like most other temples in Khajuraho, this too was built by the Chandella dynasty sometime between the 10th and the 12th century. Devi Jagadamba temple lies on the northern part of Khajuraho
Vishwanath Temple
It is a part of the western group of Khajuraho Monuments. It has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is dedicated to Shiva, whose other name is “Vishvanatha”. It showcases the Central Indian style of architecture that began with the Lakshmana Temple and culminated with the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple.
Dulhadev Temple
This temple was built to honour the Hindu god Shiva in the form of a linga, which is kept in the sanctum. ‘Dulhadev’ means “Holy Bridegroom”. The temple is also referred to as “Kunwar Math”. It faces east and was built sometime between 1000–1150 AD. It is the also one of the last temples built during the Chandella period.
Leave Khajuraho by 7AM to reach Bedaghat by 2 PM
Bedaghat
Place to stay: MPT Marble rocks, definite recommend. The staff and the food is just wonderful. We had an unfortnate small accident at the location and had to let go visit to Dhuvadhar, however we were fortunate to have visited the marble quarry in evening. Special mention for Mr. Harishchandra(MPT Bedhaghat), ph: 7693921693 who went out of his wat and ensured all essential help for us
Drive from Bedhaghat to Kanha National Park.
Kanha National Park
Probably one of the best maintained forests in India, the Kanha national forest gives you a proper sense of what a forest should be. The well appreciated program of conservation of tigers, barasingha and other animals by the authorities is well known across the world. We stayed at the national park taking few rides and enjoyed the experience to the fullest.
Plus we also had a pretty good spotting as well :)
Leave for Bhopal. The drive to Bhopal takes approximately 8 hours. Barring the first 40 odd Kms from Kanha side, the rest of the road are pretty well laid out.
Bhopal
Stay: Jehan Numah Palace
For a rich taste of royalty, we recommed a stay at Jehan Numah palace.
As Suchita was still injured, we decided to curtail our itinerary for the day. We had planned to visit both Sanchi and Bhimbetka rock shelters. However, decided to keep it easy and only visit Sanchi.
Sanchi
Definite recommend a guide, Mr. Surendra Singh badoria, Ph: 9329587021. The stories and tales of ancient India transports you back to 300 BC.
To understand the true power of India and to understand why India was called as 'Golden Bird' you have to visit Sanchi stupa.
Sanchi Stupa is a Buddhist complex which is one of the oldest stone structures in India, originally commissioned by Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE. The edifice is dominated by a central hemispherical chamber encompassing relics of Buddha. Famous as one of the best conserved ancient Stupas of central , Sanchi Stupa joined the list of UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1989.
Head towards Indore for nights rest.
Leave for Mumbai with loads of memories and camera full of adventure, India's history and love.
Thank you Madhya Pradesh and our wonderful people who truely define 'Athiti devo bhava'. :)
Need any help to plan your road trip ? We would love to help !!!
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