I did not go with a premeditated plan and wanted to get suggestions from locals. Stanzin suggested that i do the Sham trek, which does not require special expedition equipment and gives a good flavour of Ladakh. Sham means "West" in Ladakhi language and this trek takes me through some high mountain passes and remote villages. Both me and Stanzin are passionate about wildlife and this trek gives us ample opportunities to spot wildlife. But going without any expectations is very important to enjoy the sightings.
The day before we start, i was amazed to see Stanzin take out elaborate topographical maps of the mountains to chalk out the trek route. Since sometime, map for me means "Google maps". Luckily Stanzin himself is a seasoned guide and he will guide me through the trek.
We reached Nurboo's house in the evening and received a warm welcome. Nurboo is an expert snow leopard tracker and works with conservation actively. I felt fortunate enough to stay at his beautiful house which was very old and charming.
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After lazing around Likir for 4 days, i was acclimatised for cold and thin air. I was staying in "Old Likir Guest house" and made a couple of small treks to explore Likir, with my host and guide, Stanzin. He told me that "The more you rest initially the better you are able to adapt during the trek".
Trek to Ulley Village
After the breakfast i was ready for the trek. We had two bags to carry, with each carrying our own lunch. Stanzin was comfortable carrying the heavier bag and that helped me take a lot of photographs during the trek. There is that feeling of excitement of the experiences that are about to come.
The trek begins along the Srinagar-Leh highway. We took some shortcuts to avoid the initial concrete road. Concrete roads are not good for walking during trek as it puts a lot of stress on the legs, which the soil would otherwise absorb.
Its like walking through the painting book of nature. The colors change along the way you and there is continuous change of light and shadows.
We go through a small settlement, which comprise of a couple of houses only. This particular place had a river running through it and there was burst of colours from the flora. On the way we had lunch and we now headed towards Yangthang.
As this region is dry, i imagined this place to have little vegetation. I found that not only there is variety of flora, they look beautiful in their vivid colours.
Late afternoon, we arrived near the Yangthang village and took some rest before the climb ahead. Yangthang is a relatively small village that was built by Ladakhi people who served the monastery and the land was granted by the monastery as appreciation of their service.
Almost nearing sunset, we were now heading towards the last climb to Ulley. The setting sun makes the perfect background to compliment the mountains.
During the climb, I witnessed the famous mushroom rocks of Ulley. The structures are formed by wind erosion and snow - over time as loose soil and rocks blow away from below, it may leave an intact rock at the top, resembling a mushroom. They are spread across and adds to Ulley's supernatural appeal.
Ulley
Next morning, we started our search for snow leopard. Though Nurboo suggested us to search in the hills opposite Ulley, we went the other side, having misunderstood his direction. But that turned into a boon as we encountered massive open landscape i have never seen before. As there were no sightings of leopards that day, so we did not lose out either.
As we reached the top, it started snowing and it was extremely cold. This also set the tone for a snowfall in the lower altitudes in the evening.
On the way we saw beautiful ice formation along streams and the unique flora of this region.
As we climbed down we saw the abandoned shelters used by the herders for grazing cattle in summer.
Rock formations around this place was unique.
After we came back it was time to witness extreme cold that prevails before the snowfall. After a while snow engulfed all and it continued till late night.
The kitchen was warm as usual. Nurboo and his wife cooked delicious meal for us, while i rested along with the cats.
After the snowfall, i requested Nurboo if i can stay in the kitchen. The room on the first floor was freezing and I just did not want to leave the warm kitchen. He greed happily and i slept in the warm kitchen with three blankets.
Ulley
The next morning i woke up early as i wanted to see how the place will look after snowfall.
I went out to discover that the place has turned into a wonderland. Everything from the mountains to the road and the toilet looked beautiful.
Meanwhile Nurboo was busy scanning the horizon for wildlife. He gets up very early and looks for wildlife using his telescope. He is a master tracker and knows all the routes the leopards frequent.
Suddenly on the snowy horizon there were three leopards - A family of three with mother and her cubs.
First the cubs appear playfully.
Then we saw the complete family on the top of the mountain
Unfortunately this was the last day of our stay at Ulley. As the leopards appeared, Stanzin suggested we drop the next day's visit and spend one more day here. I took no time to say Yes.
My lens was not enough to capture the leopards clearly, so we thought of trekking to the opposite hill and get a closer look. One the way we saw some vast expanses covered in snowfall and the view was unlike anything.
After climbing the hill opposite the leopards, we had a closer look but was still pretty far away. If we went too close and the leopards smell us, they will move away.
After a while the family came together and moved away from the hill on the other side, away from our sight.
As the leopards went the other side, we came down the hill and explored this unreal place a little more.
In the evening the leopards appeared again and broke the prayer flags that the monastery had put on the top of the mountain. This was a rare moment that i witnessed. The photos do not do justice as the lens was not good enough in low light, but it stays as a fond memory.
The next day we start again on our trek again, now heading towards Hemis.
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