Hilsa is a match for Bengalis made on the lunch table. If you know anybody who is a non vegetarian and spent some years of their life in any parts of Bengal, they know the drill. Come monsoon and they would be drooling over mustard hilsa, a preparation where the hilsa fish is slow cooked in a balanced mustard gravy.
At a time when ‘vocal for local‘ has started making sense and people are demanding locally sourced ingredients, this is probably one of the exceptions in an otherwise sustainable Bong kitchen. The Gangetic Hilsa or the fish from the Bangladesh side of the Ganges river is the most celebrated one and Bengalis do not think twice before spending a fortune on this fish.
An otherwise marine fish, Hilsa enters the fresh water to lay eggs. The baby fish are born on the upstream of a river. After they have grown significantly to sustain the sea, they all swim to the ocean. And this is when the hilsa fest began. To ensure the hilsa population isn’t harmed, the government has a policy to prohibit fishermen from catching baby fish.
Why am I saying all this on a weekday morning! Well, if you happen to be in Kolkata during the monsoon, you would have been overwhelmed by the hilsa festivals happening all around you. From a four-seater cafe to a fine dining restaurant, nobody wants to give this opportunity a miss. Mind you, people in Kolkata are never tired of hilsa.
Last week, I decided to step into Farzi Cafe in the Park Street area of Kolkata. Apparently they were also having a Hilsa Utsav. It didn’t really exhilarate me in advance as I was expecting the same ol’ dishes of hilsa with hilsa fried oil and white rice. At the most, there would be hilsa biryani. That’s it!
But wait! I didn’t expect a lavish spread that not just contained the traditional dishes but had some significantly experimental dishes. The brainchild of Zorawar Kalra, Farzi had raised the bar since its inception.The molecular gastronomy became the trend and the term ‘Farzified’ actually got into the food critics’ parlance.
The Blashphemous Conduct
Hilsa deboned! Hilsa with naan and lachha paratha!
Trust me, if the text above has already given you enough cringe I get you. I was an orthodox Hilsa lover and wouldn’t let anyone dilute my love for the queen of the fish. However, this was an evolutionary progression for me.
I met Chef Soumyadip Dutta and was blown by his innovation. The Hilsa Utsav menu did start with the classics Ilish Paturi, Doi Ilish and Shorshe ilish. For the uninitiated these are quintessential hilsa dishes containing mostly mustard gravy - either slow cooked or pot-steamed with hints of green chilli and nigella seed. Though the names chosen were Mustard Hilsa En Papillote for the banana leaf steamed fish and “Farzified” Sour Curd Hilsa that is cooked in creamy curd gravy.
But the oomph arrived with Un-Earthed Pit Roasted Hilsa served with Garlic Naan. Now, that’s one full boneless hilsa fillet is cooked in a spicy red tandoori marination which at the get-go, smells and looks like an Amtritsari korma in red tikka gravy, but the moment you tear a bit of the naan, non-thick, Chandigarhi, and dip it in the hilsa, it gives your palate a happy amazement.
I was actually nervous as if I was about to commit a sin! Hilsa in spicy red tandoori marination! Once in my mouth, I realised the chef isn’t kidding. The subtle garlic hint, the balanced tikka masala didn’t vanish away the flavour of hilsa. It was well intact.
Then arrived on our table another showstopper peri peri Chilli Charmed Hilsa served with Lachha Paratha. Again a boneless hilsa fillet in peri peri masala gently cooked in tandoor. You could feel the globalisation of senses - exploding in your mouth.
If you are a Hilsa addict, you would love it. If you are uninitiated, step into Farzi cafe and experience the flavourful tornado with Hilsa.
Things to do around Park Street, Kolkata
There are more than dozens of activities to do in and around this area. Essentially the heart of the city, Park Street is where all the actions take place in town. After such an eventful meal, you can explore any of the following options.
Oxford Bookstore
Trust me, it isn’t the regular bookstores you encounter at the malls. This is way different. You can choose to call it an idea stop. You will find a crowd of book enthusiasts of all age groups not just buying but also reading. That’s something about Kolkata, we call the Calcutta Charm.
Victor Brothers
If you love antique things, this is a paradise. You will feel like a little lamb suddenly freed on the green pastures. But a word of caution - do not expect this place to be super clean and boutique. If you have an eye, you will discover good things. Pick up some rare vintage collectibles to deck up your house or simply to invest in. Think Ming vases, Victorian tea sets, majestic gramophones, brownie cameras, grandfather clocks, vintage chandeliers and antique furniture.
Biswa Bangla Haat
You just had a scrumptious Hilsa meal. No wonder you are mesmerised by Bengal. Walk into the Biswa Bangla Haat, a state government venture that sells artefacts from around the state. You can pick up handloom, crafts, honey, jewellery and a lot of things to make you feel nostalgic.
