A dance date with Khajuraho

Tripoto
23rd Feb 2023
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

The history textbooks of my middle school spoke eloquently about the awe-inspiring art and architecture of Khajuraho Temples. Since then it has been one of the destinations I wished to visit (like many more, of course). Finally I got an opportunity to visit it bang in the middle of the Khajuraho Dance Festival when a dear friend asked us to join their road trip to Khajuraho and Orchaa. Do I even have to think!

Day 1

Left early morning on a Thursday

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

A journey of over 600 kms through the Agra, Yamuna and newly opened Bundelkhand Expressway was accomplished by us in less than 10 hours with 3 pit stops.

After a quick refreshment, we were ready for our first evening at the Khajuraho Dance Festival. A mesmerizing evening of rivetting dance performances, Kathak and Odissi

Photo of Khajuraho Festival Of Dances, Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Kandariya Mahadev Temple stands tall under the resplendant crescent

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Sanjukta Sinha performing Kathak (sorry for the poor quality pic)

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Exhibition of Terracotta Sculptures

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Kathakali Exhibition

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

The itinerary of the festival

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Day 2

After a restful night, we were ready for Orchaa. A small town on the banks of Betwa river, Orchaa was established as the captital of Bundelkhand Empire in 1501 AD. The magnificent Orchaa Fort-Palace is a testament of Indo-Islamic architecture. The exterior looks simple but the halls and the rooms built for the royal family has elaborate paintings inspired from the epics. The engineering facet of the fort is breathtaking. Windows have been designed to welcome sunlight during winters and fall on the royal bed . The bathrooms till has the ruins of an iron cauldron used to heat water for bathing. The complex comprises Raja Mahal, Jehangir Mahal (where the eponymous emperor stayed only for one night), Sheesh Mahal, Diwan-e-aam, gardens, open courtyards, balconies, and an echo of bygone era seeped in pride and nostalgia.

The central courtyard of the Raja Mahal

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

The painted ceilings

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Fountain in the courtyard

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

The opulent facade of the Jehangir Mahal

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Balconies and Latticed windows of the Raja Mahal

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Sunset on the banks of Betwa with the Centaps in the background

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

The back of Jehangir Mahal

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Now with Orchaa declared as an UNESCO Heritage Site, it is hoped that the conservation will speed up for the future to admire this gem.

Day 3

The third and the final day was dedicated to the Kahjuraho group of temples. Spread across 20 kms, it originally had 85 temples. But today after 1100 years of existence only 22 structures remain within an area of 6 kms. Khajuraho is named after the dense forest of Khajur (dates) found in the region. The town has many wter bodies that make the region green. The temples were built by the rulers of Chandela dynasty during their heydays. The structures are designed with intricate sculptures showcasing different aspects of life. Let me tell you that the erotic art which is almost synoymous with Khajuraho is hardly 5% of the entire art work on display. So don't bother to visit if that is your only reason.

Whatever I write will not be sufficient to describe the art and poetry displayed by the sculptures. The monuments are built with sandstone withouing any mortar or cement. The pillars and stone blocks are connect or joint with each other using a superb interlocking system. The biggest temple of the complex is Kandariya Mahadev Temple deciated to Lord Shiva with the deity made in white marble to denote the shivlinga of Amarnath Temple.

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Lakshmana Temple named after the ruler who built it

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Varaha Temple

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Vishwanath Temple. The only one where a deity is worshipped since the day the temple was opened.

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

What detailing and imagination created with hammer and chisel

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

The ceiling

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

The white shivlinga inside Kandariya Mahadev Temple

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Us the travellors

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Jain Temple

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Kandariya Mahadev Temple, the largest among them all

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

After spening four hours under the scorching sun, it was tiem to bid adieu to the glorius edifice standing tall through time. Our heart was not satisfied but we were short on time.

Hunger took us to Raja Cafe just outside the exit gate of the western group of temples.

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Bundelkhandi mutton

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

The terrace

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Awesome food so is the vibe and staff

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Back to Hotel we went to freshen up for our last evening in Khajuraho

Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee
Photo of A dance date with Khajuraho by Antara Banerjee

Sorry for the bad quality dance photos. We were way back to capture it with phones. Honestly it needs to be captured with an open heart, eyes and mind.

Do let me know, how did you guys like this piece and do connect if you want to know anything for your trip to Khajuraho.