On Her Majesty's Feet : Annapurna Base Camp

Introduction :

As I plodded towards the base camp, stopping every other step to catch my breath and to comprehend the grandeur spread out, the imposing view of Mt. Annapurna overwhelmed me. Not that this was my first time in the High Himalayas ,but to be so close to an eight thousander was an awe inspiring experience. Sheer scale (from human frame) was bewitching .It was back in Feb-2018 when I first went to Annapurna Conservation Area to trek to ABC, but inclement weather forced me to abort the plan midway with a heavy heart. Since then the plan for ABC was ringing in my head, with things finally put in place in April 2022 with me and one of my office colleagues, Arun Pari, planned to do the ABC trek in Nepal, huffed and puffed in the quotidian life.

Itinerary :-

Day 01 : Reaching Delhi @Night from Kolkata

Day 02 : Arrival in Kathmandu by flight from Delhi and stay at Kathmandu

Day 03 : Kathmandu to Pokhara flight / Pokhra (822 m) to Ghandruk (2012 m) by Land Rover (50kms) - 2.5 hrs.

Day 04 : Ghandruk(2012 m) to Chhomrong (2150 m) via Kimrong Khola (1900 m)- 14 kms and 6 hrs.

Day 05 : Chomrong (2012 m) to Bamboo(2310 m) to Upper Dovan (2600 m)- 15 kms./7-8 hrs.

Day 06 : Dovan (2600 m)to Himalaya (2900 m) to Deurali (3200 m) to MBC (3700m)- 11kms./ 5-6 hrs.

Day 07 : MBC (3700m) to ABC (4130m) - 6 kms./2.5 hrs.

Day 08 : ABC (4130m)to bamboo(2310 m) to Upper Sinuwa (2100m) - 25kms./7-8 hrs.

Day 09 : Upper Sinuwa (2100m) -Chomrong (2012 m) -Jhinu Danda(1800 m)- 11kms./4-5 hrs.

Day 10 : Jhinu Danda(1800 m) - Nayapaul (1 hr. walk)-Pokhra by Car - 3 hrs.

Day 11 : Stay at Pokhra

Day 12 : Pokhra to Kathmandu (by Road/Flight) and KTM -DEL flight

Planning :

While planning for a trek in Nepal , some questions cropped up . Owing to my earlier jaunt in 2018 , answers were somewhat known ,yet reconfirmed , because of changing regulations due to covid snafu.

1. Formalities for Nepal by Flight : It takes around 2 hrs. to reach Nepal by flight from Delhi. Owing to cordial relationship with Nepal , Indian Nationals do not need visa, but carrying a passport is mandatory. Once you reach Nepal , an entry form needs to be filled up asking some basic details and get your passport stamped by the immigration (no fuss). Owing to Covid -19 , we had to fill up one additional form online (https://ccmc.gov.np/arms/person_add_en.php).

2. Trekking formalities in Nepal : In order to do Annapurna Base camp trek , two permits are required :

a. Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) :

Office Address :

Kathmandu: Nepal Tourism Board, Pradarshani Marg, Kathmandu 44617, Nepal

Opening Hours: Monday – Sunday. 10am – 5pm (Closed Saturdays)

Pokhara: ACAP Office, Pokhara 33700, Nepal

Opening Hours: Monday – Sunday. 10am – 5pm (closed Saturdays)

Cost : Nepali rupees 1000 per person for SAARC national

Documents :

Passport

4 x Passport Photos

Trekking Route (Annapurna Circuit, Annapurna Base Camp etc.)

Entrance & exit points of your trek

Trekking Itinerary (Approximate start and end date)

Emergency Contact Information Local (Can be your hotel or guesthouse)

Emergency Contact Information Family

Fees in local currency

Travel Insurance Details (helicopter evacuation to be considered)

Spcl Note : Going with a trekking agency is not mandatory , however suggested ,keeping in mind unpredictability associated with trekking in high altitude.

b. Tourist Information Management Card (TIMS Card) :

Office Address :(same as ACAP)

Kathmandu: Nepal Tourism Board, Pradarshani Marg, Kathmandu 44617, Nepal

Opening Hours: Monday – Sunday. 10am – 5pm (Closed Saturdays)

Pokhara: ACAP Office, Pokhara 33700, Nepal

Opening Hours: Monday – Sunday. 10am – 5pm (closed Saturdays)

Cost :

Group Trekker: NRs. 300

Free Independent Trekkers : NRs. 600, per trekking route per person per entry.

Documents : Same as ACAP permit

Trekking Agency : We did Annapurna Base Camp trek with Bharal Adventures (https://bharaladventure.com/) . Trekking agency must be a certified and registered Trekking and Tours Agency with Department of Tourism and Trekking Agencies’ Association Nepal(TAAN).

Registration can be checked @ https://www.taan.org.np/members?l=b

Currency :

1 INR = 1.6 NPR

Indian rupees up to 500 denomination is accepted at main towns viz., Kathmandu and Pokhara . However, in the outskirts ,such as small villages along the trail , only Nepalese rupees are accepted. Therefore, it is prudent to withdraw sufficient amount of Nepali Rupees from the ATM @ Kathmandu or Pokhara ,before venturing into mountains.

Though ,for some unknown reasons, my ICICI international debit card didn't work ,but my colleague's SBI debit card spewed Nepalese currencies effortlessly, much to our relief, from the ATM of Nepal Bank Limited @ Kathmandu International Airport precincts.

Important Points to Remember : (Before Finalizing Itinerary)

* Rescheduling of Regional Flights of Nepal (like Kathmandu to Pokhra) is very common ,courtesy to unpredictable weather conditions at high himalayas. Flight may get delayed and /or cancelled . Therefore , having booking in the 1 st flight increases the chance of flying out .

* Regional flights are of small capacity (25 pax) and limited in numbers .Therefore ,it is highly likely that tickets may get sold out .

* Pokhara ,nestled at the base of the mountains, receives sizable amount of rainfall. Morning is the best time to fly in/out of Pokhara.

* Keep 2 nos. of buffer day to have the leeway to accommodate flight cancellations , and /or to beguile sometime in the quaint little town of Pokhara .

* As most of the flights to Kathmandu from India are afternoon flights , it is better not to plan for Pokhra on the same day .Use the evening hours to amble around the city streets ,withdraw currency , and meet your trek operator (if there is ) and collect the permits .

* Road from Kathmandu to Pokhra is in shambles . Weighing between time ,safety and money , it is prudent to take the flight . (Yeti Airlines, Tara and Buddha).Pokhara may not seem far from Kathmandu (the cities are only 126 miles / 204 km apart), but the Nepali terrain and road quality make for a very long drive.

Best time to do the trail :

Summer : 2nd week of April to May (In Summer months , possibility of clouds/haze obscuring the mountain view is higher). We were lucky enough to get a crystal view of mountains .In early april , you will witness rhododendron bloom.

Autumn : Oct and Nov (Just before winter sets in , its better to venture out in the trail to get a clear view of mountains . Absence of Clouds and Haze makes it a perfect time )

Please bear in mind , getting a view of mountains is all about luck .Weather patterns can be indicative ,but not conclusive ,more so in the high himalayas.

Stay option along the trail :

Most treks in Nepal are 'teahouse' treks, which means every night you end up at a simple lodge with basic rooms and a meal. The best thing about teahouse trekking - you only have to carry very minimal gear. Teahouses vary slightly from region to region, but most are simple stone and wooden buildings or huts that have a kitchen, a community eating hall and bathroom area, and a number of basic bedrooms that usually have two single beds and a table. Most teahouses are built specifically for trekkers, but some, in the more remote regions of Nepal, may double as the family's home.

Expect the rooms to be basic but clean, and to pay slightly more for an attached bathroom. Your room will come with a thick blanket (feel free to double-up, if it's cold), which you can use as a second layer over top your sleeping bag or as your main blanket for the night. Most trekkers skip on showers during their trek, but some teahouses do offer hot bucket showers at a small fee.

If your accommodation and meals are included as part of a package trek, then everything will be taken care of at your teahouse besides personal snacks and drinks, which you usually pay for yourself. In almost all cases, the cost of your room is very affordable (around $5/night), where the owners make most of their income from the meals and beverages. For this reason, you are expected to eat all your meals at the teahouse at which you're staying.

You'll find a similar set menu of dhal bhat, momos, pasta, pizza, and other rice and noodle dishes at almost all the teahouses. Some dishes take longer to make than others (such as momos), so best to check in advance as to what's fresh and available. To avoid getting sick on the trek, it's wise to order whatever's fresh. Most trekkers, guides, and porters opt for dhal bhat - it's generally consistent, healthy, and readily available wherever you go.

Generally, the higher you get in your trek meals will be costlier. At ABC (located high in the mountains, close to Annapurna), for example, expect to pay more for dhal bhat than you would down in Ghandruk (which is easily accessible due to its airport and lower elevation).

Wi-Fi & Electricity :

Many teahouses in Nepal now have wi-fi and charging outlets available in the dining hall. Still, connection speed and availability is spotty, at best, and slows down the more people that are connected to it (due to old routers). Teahouses in the Chomrong have better internet connections , but don't expect too much at ABC. At most teahouses, you can pay to charge your electronic devices for around $2.50 (Rs. 250). Power outages are quite frequent, however, so be sure to charge when you get the chance!

Network :

N-cell works fine till Chomrong . In higher reaches , wifi can be used to make watsapp calls or to send messages .Don't stay at Bamboo or Upper Dovan ,as net connectivity is pretty poor , if communication to outside world is your key concern.@ MBC and ABC , wifi works basic (can't expect more) . Keep your family informed well in advance your where abouts next 2-3 days , as connectivity can go for a toss during heavy rains/snowfall (pretty common in this part).

Trail Profile :

Let the trip begin to her Majesty's Feet !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It was a listless flight journey ,with monotone was occasionally broken by chimes of pre-emptive seat belt alerts ,and ferrying of foods by elegant air hostesses. Didn't know when I dozed off , but got back into reality by the loud voice of the captain informing about Kathmandu Airport nearby.

Kathmandu sky was overcast , presaging jinx of 2018 . Tried hard to stay optimistic ,but as the old adage goes , 'Once bitten ,you're twice shy '. Silently ,started to rue our decision to come to Kathmandu in early April , despite reading about adverse conditions this time of the year . Adding salt to the injury was inclement weather predictions in scores of online apps. With a mélange of wistful thinking and optimism , we sauntered towards our Hotel , Meridian Suite , which , as google suggested , was some steps away from the Airport . Though , Thamel ,commonly known as Backpacker's enclave , is more famous area to stay in Kathmandu , we chose to stay close to Airport ,reckoning early morning flight to Pokhara. It was very clean and value for money kind of property .

After getting freshened up , Arun Da asked the trek operator to come to the hotel room to have some discussions about our trek ,and to pay the balance trek fees . While savoring delicious noodles and coffee after an enervating day at the rooftop restaurant of the hotel, our trek agent ,Mr. Arjun Dhakal ,of Bharal Adventures, dropped in with a smiling face . We ,after exchanging pleasantries and discussing about the trail head, went to the ATM (at the airport) to withdraw money to give him , as well as for our own needs high up there. Once done , took a local taxi and headed towards Thamel ,happening backpacker's enclave .

Thamel was bustling with backpackers from all over the world ,with shops of adventure gears flanking both side of warren of streets . We had to hurry back to our hotel as heavy downpour started . In nepal , most common delicacy is Daal Bhat ,which locals say 'Daal Bhat Power ,24 hours'. Had a sumptuous thali @ Night ,and went to hit the hay around 2230 hrs.

We were informed at the check in counter that flight would be delayed , owing to inclement weather conditions at Pokhara. After many rounds of coffee and discussions , almost after 2 hours , Yeti Airlines announced that boarding for Pokhara would be started immediately , as weather had got cleared up. All eager passengers lined up ,and after customary checking of boarding pass , proceeded towards the exit gate to board the bus which ferried us to the tarmac .

We boarded the flight ,but the flight didn't wheel up as it was not getting clearance from the ATC. Everyone were bit worried , as with every passing hours @ Kathmandu , chances of flying was becoming dim. The road from Kathmandu to Pokhra is in shambles ,making it the most unfavorable alternative . Flight cancellation means a day wasted at Kathmandu ,which could have been used @ Mountains or as a rest day after strenuous trek. As bad luck would have it , flight attendants apologetically asked us to alight from the flight ,as all landing permissions @Pokhara Airport temporarily suspended owing to heavy rains . While coming back , I was ruing my decision to come to Nepal at this time of the year , despite weather warnings in different blog post. And ,back in the airport again , we mulled on the option of taking a bus /car to Pokhara . Even if we come tomorrow ,there was no guarantee of good weather .So, we thought it was always better to use the options available rather that wasting an entire day @ Kathmandu with a hope of un-predictability turning out to certainty the next day. Weighing different options , we decided that we would wait till 11 'o clock ,and if outcome remained same , we would take a cab for Pokhara . Finally ,around 1030 ,when we were gearing up to leave the airport , yeti airlines announced that weather got cleared up @ Pokhara , and requested everyone to rush for the flight so to use this small window of clear weather. We rushed and boarded the flight again . This time ,much to our relief , flight rolled on the tarmac ,and in no time up in the air ,propelling through the billowing clouds.

What could have been a long 8-10 hours of arduous journey on the road , ended up in a jiffy . From the sodden tarmac one could guess about the downpour ,but didn't appear to be heavy enough to stall flights . Be that as it may , we were relieved to reach Pokhara ,a small mountain town @ the base of mountains , and was happy that finally our trip began after many hiccups . It was a very small airport with luggages were delivered manually .

Our Trek Guide ,Mr. Bikram Khadka , was waiting outside the airport , and he assured us that it was not too late to start for Ghandruk, final destination of the day ,from where ABC trek starts. Pokhara to Ghandruk was approx. 55 KM distance which took around 4 hours. The road between Pokhara to Nayapul was blacktopped and the rest of the road was off-road drive. At Nayapaul , permit for Annapurna Conservation Area was checked.

A small and beautiful village in the Gandaki zone of northern central Nepal, Ghandruk is the starting point of the Annapurna Base Camp Trekking. The eco-friendly domiciles that reflect on the traditional identity of the Gurungs is a main attraction of this village. Situated at an altitude of 2012 meters above sea level, Ghandruk in itself is a viewpoint of Mt Annapurna, Mt Machhapuchhre and Himalchuli.

From the open terrace of the hotel , one can bask in the glory of Mighty Himalayas .However ,thick cloud enveloped the mountains ,depriving us from the grand view.

After a long and anxious day , we relaxed for quite some time on the terrace ,slurping hot coffee and snacks. Although ,mountain view was still elusive ,but being in the serenity of mountains harvested eudaimonia , calmed ever-running mind. We went to explore the mountain village , ambling through its warren of boulder strewn alleyways , one of thousands to be tramped in the days to come.

It was becoming very cold out there ,and the light drizzle already started ,forced us to retire in our hotel room. Dinner ,daal bhat , was served around 2000 hrs. ,and after that went to sleep to recoup ourselves for a long trekking day.

After completing our breakfast , we hit the trail @ 0700 hrs . As the Sun was blanketed by clouds , it was perfect to walk such long distances ,but missing on a such gorgeous views making us to rue our decisions to do the trail this time of the year . However , mastering optimism , we dallied through the trail . The first hour into the trail was walking on a dirt trail which was recently constructed ,and it was built over the old walking path.

After lunch, the trail went uphill for almost two hours. It was a difficult climb, but there was a teahouse at the top for a well-deserved break. After that, it was a short downhill followed by a semi flat path for about 40 minutes. There were gorgeous views of the rolling hills and the first sneak peak of the Himalaya in the distance.

We started trekking around 0730 hrs .Today ,we covered 15 kms. to reach upper Dovan from Chomrong. For almost one hour ,trail went downhill up to a suspension bridge from the village Chomrong . In between , there was a check post where entry permits to Annapurna Area to be shown.

Final section before Bamboo was a steep downhill for about 30 minutes. We reached Bamboo @ 1230 hrs. ,and stopped there for lunch. Sky was covered with puffs of black clouds ,portending heavy downpour. At Bamboo , we had a sumptuous lunch of Daal ,Bhat @ Bamboo Guest House and Restaurant. We originally planned to sleep in Bamboo, but decided to continue on to Upper Dovan as we still had energy.

At Upper Dovan ,there were only two tree houses ,and the facility was also limited . It might be prudent to stay at Lower dovan . We reached @ 1500 hrs. ,and then heavy downpour started . Our Guest house didn't have wi-fi facility ,so we went to to the other one to use their Wi-Fi , apt way to beguile time .In the evening , we chit chatted ,slurped many cups of coffee ,snacks . Around 2000 , we had dinner (daal ,bhat). In this part of the world , menu remained the same ,but very healthy . It was pretty cold out there and pitch dark ,so went to hit the hay .

After the temple, it was a steep uphill climb on stone steps for about 40 minutes. It was frazzling of a section and my legs were went for a toss .After every few steps , I was gasping for breath ,as cold mountain air nuzzled my face.

Then the trail smoothened out ,passing through a forest ,which gave a bit of respite from the endless climb.

At the end of the trail , there was a view point from where antesque Himalaya Village perched on a hill top could be seen . Modi Khola river hurtled down from the glaciers in the upper reaches ,and few ibex were seen grazing precariously on the precipice of a slope.

From there , another 10 mins of walk through a mix of gentle ascent and descent , We reached Himalaya Village @ 0820 hrs. Here, we took morning cup of tea break.

It was bright and sunny day . Sip of hot tea warmed up the body ,and then we powered towards Deurali.

After the cave was a short downhill to the landslide / avalanche zone. There were beautiful views of the waterfall, but it was prudent not to stop or stand here for too long. It is to be remembered that walking in this area too late in the day is risky as the wind picks up causing rocks to fall from above, and the sun begins to melt the snow.

Cross these areas one at a time to avoid putting too much weight in one spot. Don’t stop in the landslide or avalanche areas, and don’t stop on the frozen snow going over the river.

After the landslide zone, it was an uphill climb to Deurali where we grabbed a steaming maggie. I don’t recommend staying in Deurali as it’s also known for landslides.

From there , trail gently descended and brought us on the shores of burbling modi khola river .Here , we took rest for half an hour , basking in the glory of surrounding mountains.

From here, the trail climbed up along the surrounding mountains. It was continuous uphill climb , making it difficult to the already jaded legs . In the meantime , weather started to turn against us ,with cold breeze and drizzle made it even more difficult to brave the climb. Last stretch was really difficult with assiduous climb. However , huffed and puffed , we reached Machhapuchchhre base camp @ 1330 hrs. What we witnessed in next six hours could best be described as 'UNTHINKABLE' .

No sooner had we reached the hotel than rain started to pick up speed . I thought it was passing of an incident , as happened most of our earlier days in the trail . I got freshened up and went to take a nap , which was interrupted by the pitter -patter of the raindrops on the tin shed . It was pretty cold out there with winds gushing down from the mountains , forcing people either to retire in their rooms or dining hall . Our guide bellowed for lunch ,which cut short my slumber . When I came out in the verandah , to my disbelief , everything was white washed ,with no semblance of morning weather . It was pouring down and now those rain drops, in the cold breeze, had turned into a hail storm. Occasional thunder storms ,and its echo in the surrounding mountains , created a scary ambience.

We went to the dining room for our lunch , and the propensity of snowfall kept on increasing , as if the mountain God was pummeling the valley . Lines started to deepen on the foreheads of trekkers and guides . If it continued like that , it would be difficult to climb the last 3 kms to Annapurna Base Camp . I was feeling angry within , as Annapurna Jinx hovering around . So close ,yet so far. Around 1700 hrs. , 3 hours after rainfall started ,there was no sign of abating .Few guides huddled their team members and explained the possible ramifications ,including engendering heli evac. If there was one person who was optimistic , it was our guide Mr. Bikram ,who continuously exhorted that 'Tomorrow is going to be a good good day' . However , with every passing hour and no sign of snowfall abating rather intensifying , our hope of completing ABC trail grew bleaker. I rued my decision to come to ABC at this time of the year , and started to draw an apophenia in my mind. Elusive view of Annapurna from the base camp started to bother me . It was like running after a mirage . Even when we went for dinner ,around 2000 hrs., the situation worsened ,as raucous thunderbolts and heavy snowfall crashing the valley ,such was the roar . By that time , we already knew in our heart ,though not expressed , that our ABC sojourn had hit a roadblock , and it would be better to ascend from here rather climbing up , if we get slightest opportune moment tomorrow. The level of snow was now almost touching the final stair steps to the verandah .

Carrying a heavy heart , both of us went to sleep around 2100 hrs. With so much of thought hovering around and anxiety for tomorrow , didn't even remember when I went to deep slumber . It was nature's call which transitioned me back to reality . In mountains , sense of timing can be illusory . I rummaged through the bed for my wrist watch ,and found out that it was only 12 am midnight . From the eerie silence , I could gather that the snowfall had stopped , might be an intermission. Mastering all my courage (leaving the comforts of cozy bed and braving bone chilling cold outside ) , I unlatched the door and went to the verandah and peered around . What I saw there , still giving me goosebumps , was ineffable . I stood there transfixed . It was a full moon night , a pure coincidence . There was not a single puff of cloud in the sky ,and all the mighty peaks (Himchuli, Gangapurna ,Fishtail) were glistening in the full moon . Entire valley turned into a wonderland ,and it's white cloak was coruscating under the moonlight . Then I looked right ,and there she was . Maa Annapurna presiding over the valley with all its effervescence .There was no other person other than me standing there witnessing phantasmal beauty unfolding . Till now , I can't believe what I saw there . I went to my room and pushed Arun Da out of sleep . When I told him about it he laughed ,and asked me not to joke at this time. I pulled him out of the bed , and he was awestruck. We hoped for a clear morning tomorrow ,and went to sleep with a sense of excitement and baited breath for the next day.

In another 15 minutes ,@ 0545 hrs., a shaft of gold hit the crown of Mt Himchuli ,and then its big sister ,Annapurna South , and Baraha Shikar. Soon the shaft became a flood and the whole range was illuminated in a dazzle of molten gold. In the next half hour, it turned to silver. It was breathtaking, figuratively this time. All the huffing and puffing over the previous week was nothing in front of the divine grace of The Himalayas.

After capturing wads of photographs , we plonked towards the dining room ,wading precariously on the knee deep snow . We , unanimously , decided to start the trek early ,though a mere 3 kms gentle uphill climb to Annapurna Base Camp ,reckoning yesterday's marathon snowfall in the 2 nd half . And , getting a clear weather along the trail would give us a phenomenal vista , for which we treaded such long distance .

After completing our breakfast , we hit the trail @ 0730 hrs. , one of the earlier starters on that day .It is always romantic to bask in the vista of snowfall from the warmth of a hotel room ,rather than getting caught in the midst of it. The surrounding peaks were glowing with the golden and orange tints of sunrise. ABC was about 90 degrees to the left of the direction we started from Machapuchare Base Camp. The initial 1 km was a steep ascent. Then the trail ascended gradually. The last stretch to ABC was a walk on moraines. If you are lucky, you can spot some Marmut on the way to ABC. Just before reaching ABC ,there was a board emblazoned with 'Welcome to ABC' - a picture perfect spot with Annapurna at the backdrop.

With countless photographs ,and memory to harp on to , we reached Annapurna Base Camp @ 1015 hrs. Billowing clouds already engulfed the majestic peaks in front of . At Annapurna Base Camp , we were surrounded by massive peaks -Himchuli ,Annapurna I, Annapurna III, Annapurna South, Gangapurna, Gandharvachuli and Machapuchare were right there in the back.

**(The walk there is difficult only because of the altitude. Otherwise, it’s not very steep or difficult. If you walk slowly and ensure that you aren’t out of breath, then it’s an enjoyable walk with breathtaking views (literally).It’s best to leave MBC by 7:30 am the absolute latest to ensure you arrive no later than 9:30 am. Clouds tend to roll in around 10am in the mountains which is why so many people do the sunrise hike.)

We freshened up and engorged a sumptuous thali of Daal Bhat .By that time , surrounding was completely covered in black clouds. However, that didn't deter us to walk few more steps to the nearby hill top to see the glacier ,although the mountain above was shrouded in clouds . Once we reached the top , a 10 minute walk from the tree house , one could get a unobstructed view of glaciers and the mountains ,however , the precipice (or the gorge) , a sheer vertical drop , was frightening . There was a small memorial of Anatoli Boukreev, adorned with multi colored Buddhist prayer flags.

(Anatoli Boukreev, 39, an accomplished but virtually unknown Russian climber who moved into the media spotlight in the wake of the tragic Mount Everest climb of May 1996, died Christmas Day in an avalanche on Annapurna. Boukreev and Italian climber Simone Moro, 30, were attempting to climb a new route, alpine style, in winter, on 26,700-foot (8,091 meter) Annapurna in the Himalayas of Nepal. Russian cinematographer Dimitri Sobolev was with the climbers when an avalanche, apparently triggered by a falling cornice, caught the three men at approximately 19,500 feet on the south side of the mountain. Boukreev's American girlfriend, Linda Wylie of Santa Fe, New Mexico, traveled to Annapurna base camp during the search efforts. When the search party reported it could not find the missing men, Wylie said, "there is no longer any hope of finding him alive. I only hope the searchers will locate his body for a proper burial in a crevasse. Anatoli would like to stay in the mountains.)

Wind started to pick up speed and the drops of rain started to get bigger . Presaging bad weather , we scuttled to the lodge .

That night was fun. In that dining room ,people from across the globe were present . A british couple , jewish rabbi , a dutch group , few from The USA , and a cohort from Latin America - an assortment of trekkers. Trekkers were ecstatic to reach ABC , and that needed some sort of celebrations . A Nepali guide , effusive in his expression , started to sing some trendy Nepali Songs . And ,the conjubilant gathering ,in spite of not knowing a single word of the song and so its meaning, went all gaga and started to repeat the words and danced to its beat. It was a sight to behold to . Love and song transcends geographic boundaries and language .

One of the songs was : Resham Phiri-ri ,which ,later I gather, is very famous folk Nepal Song. In this singing and dancing , 2 hours went by in a whisker . Needless to mention , it was one of the highlights of the trek . Around 10pm , we completed dinner and went to sleep.

A sense of deep satisfaction overtook me. There can't be no better satisfaction than to see your dream turning into reality. All the journey , starting from planning , came flashing back into my eyes ,just like a kopfkino. All physical toll paid off . Standing there and seeing such astral beauty was an over whelming experience.

I thanked God , I thanked all my well wishers for making this happen.As they say , when you really want something God will conspire to help you. Spending almost 1.5 hours on the ridge ,my hands were numb but I was extremely happy . I started to walk back to the lodge , pausing after every few steps and looking back and admiring mother nature .

That day , we walked down till Sinuwa , a never ending 25 km long trail , the most I have ever walked on a single day.

Arun Pari ,my senior colleague and fellow trekker , deserves a special mention. He was sprinting on the trail , just like a knife cutting through butter. He didn't do any trekking in last 2 years , yet he was so nimble in the trail ,making me push myself .

Pro Tip : To get to Jhinu Danda Hot Springs you have to walk through the lush forests enmeshed with flora’s and fauna’s for 30 minutes and reach down to the natural spring called Jhinu Danda. It is counted among the best places while trekking to Annapurna Base Camp. Built on the river banks of mighty Modi Khola and encircled by the beautiful trees, hot water will relax your body and the eyes will be mesmerized from the panoramic views of the river. Just close your eyes and feel the sound of the river filling your head.

After the day-long trek, your tired body will be comfortable in the hot water. You will find the pools filled with tourists. It is up to the time, if it allows, come out of the Jhinu Danda Hot Springs and take a dip in the cold river water running near to the Jhinu Danda. After dipping your body in the natural hot water and intermittently cold river water, head back for dinner and peaceful night sleep. You will be so refreshed and elated that you might return to the Jhinu Danda Hot Springs in the early morning for a bath. Normally, travelers come to this place before heading to Pokhara. Going late in the afternoon is not suggested as the area may get dirty due to day long bathing activity .

Today was the last day in Annapurna Conservation Area .We woke up bit late in morning as hardly 1 hour walk was left to the make shift taxi stand , from where we would take a taxi for Pokhra via Nayapaul .

It was a relaxing downhill walk on a stone laden path up to the suspension bridge . I was walking slowly and enjoying each last step in the ABC trail . That happiness didn't need words ,rather my visage bore it all. As I climbed down from the village , a glance at the back showed mighty Himchuli looming large at the backdrop , and was glistening in all effervescence.

As I crossed the bridge towards the taxi stand , I felt as if that few steps were the only diff between the bliss (that I left behind) and the blase (that where I headed).

I looked back once again and offered my prayers , and with a wry smile seated on the land rover ,which would shift us to a sleepy little town of Pokhra by another 3 hours .

It was heck of a ride up to Nayapaul on a dirt trail strewn with boulders and after Nayapaul , it was bituminous road. Even while coming down , we got views of himalayan peaks from different points along the road .

We stayed at Pokhra on Day 10 and Day 11 ,just to relax a bit after a long grueling trek.

Epilogue :

My feelings after completing the trail can best be described in Bourkeev's words :

Mountains are cathedrals: grand and pure, the houses of my religion. I go to them as humans go to worship...From their lofty summits, I view my past, dream of the future, and with unusual acuity I am allowed to experience the present moment. My strength renewed, my vision cleared, in the mountains I celebrate creation. On each journey I am reborn....................

Hasta la vista...................

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