Having seen & been always fascinated by the mighty Everest in many Hollywood flicks, it was always a dream to be as close to this majestic peak as possible. Didn't realize this dream would one day motivate me to do my first ever trek: EBC.
I am sharing this entire experience here on a day by day format.
Day 1: The first leg of the trek begins with the Arrival at Lukla Airport from Kathmandu.
Lukla Airport has the honour of being known as one of the world's most dangerous airports. The thrill begins right here ... as until the very last minute one is unsure if the weather will permit the flight to take off. But then you hear the most exciting announcement: " All flights to Lukla departing now " and from hereon begins the journey of a lifetime :)
Day 1: Lukla (2835m) to #Phakding (2635m) ; 3-4 hours of hiking
After a fulfilling breakfast, the day began with passing through Lukla village, greeting the locals, petting the pets and of course heading further on towards our 1st tea lodge in Phakding.
On our way, we crossed many prayer bells and memorial stone walls. Sharing here one of the first and the biggest prayer bells, which when rotated in the clockwise direction brings good luck. Needed loads of it to make it to our final destination :)
It was an exciting day, as we also crossed the 1st of the many suspension bridges. Plus a signboard that pointed us in the direction of Everest pumped up the adrenaline to the next level :)
Day 2: Phakding to Namche Bazaar.
Distance : ~ 11.3 kms
Elevation : Phakding (2,800m/9,200ft) to
Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,300ft)
Trek duration : 7-8 hours
This was one of the pre-warned toughest days of the trek. The trail was mostly rough and uphill. For first time trekkers like me, it turned out to be a pretty intense day, especially towards the end.
However, the further up we went, the scenery just kept unfolding its delights and kept motivating us to keep going further.
This day we hit the first checkpoint of our trek - Sagarmatha National Park, the home to the highest peak in the world - Mount Everest. After our guides took care of the entrance fee, our trekking permits were checked to be in order; we were given the souvenir tickets to cross the gated area.
Once through, stoned stairs paved the way for us to continue the journey. On our way, we crossed the famous Edmund Hillary suspension bridge, which forms the main route up to Namche Bazaar. Sir Edmund Hillary was the first to summit Everest with Tenzing Norgay, his Sherpa guide in 1953.
In the picture, you can see this Bridge, the lower one not being in use anymore.
We were now almost there. The last 2 hours turned into an ordeal, but as soon as we touched Namche, all the exhaustion which had hit so hard took a backseat & transformed into a sweet pain lost in awe of the mesmerizing picturesque village of Namche.
Day 3: Acclimatization Day 1
The most critical part of the base camp trek is acclimatization. Even the fittest of people or regular trekkers are unable to complete the whole trek at times because their bodies are unable to adapt to the thinning oxygen in the air, while some suffer on account of pacing higher altitudes way too fast.
Thus to make sure our system took it all with ease, there are atleast 2 days assigned to the same during the entire hike. Day 3 was one of those.
Today we hiked from Namche Bazaar to a five-star hotel -Everest View at 3880 mts, & back.
Started the day with Statue of Tenzing Norgay aligned perfectly with the Everest backdrop.
This day was dedicated to a lot of self-portraits.
Day 4: From Namche Bazaar (11,287 ft) to Debuche (12,538 ft).
Today on our hike we came across a blue board on which was scribbled a small appeal for donation, by the man who took the responsibility of making the road to EBC trekkable with his voluntary efforts and contributions. And right next to this board sits he...a man in his 80s who still happily poses for a picture, next to his donation counter.
Our lunch stop today was right next to a suspension bridge. Posting a picture of the trek path laid out on a Tshirt, decorating our small restaurant.
It had started drizzling towards the end ... but we just had to stop at this beautiful Tengboche Monastery; our final picture-stop before heading to our last stop for the day - Debuche. This is the place we had the best tea-lodge of all as well.
Day 5 : DEBOCHE (3734m) via TENGBOCHE TO DINGBOCHE (4,400m/14,435ft ).
Today was mostly about soaking in the beauty of the mountains, the plains, the fields ... the precisely rated astoundingly breathtaking views of the hike.
Right at the start, we came across one of the old iron bridges, which is no more functional, but hopefully will be set for the next season.
Also spotted a wild mountain Tahr, a wild goat species native to Asia. These creatures are enormous & sadly slowly dying down in numbers due to human encroachment.
Today's animal spotting also finally included the Yaks( & not some cross between 2 animals which we had been spotting all throughout the way).
The pictures will narrate today's hike better .. so will let them speak for them self.
And then we reached our destination for the day - DINGBOCHE. This picture gives a birds-eye view of this town.
The final thing we did before heading to our beauty sleep was checking whether the Diamox ( the much hyped & popular medicine used for acclimatization) was keeping the oxygen and pulse under control.
I did ok :)
Day 6: Acclimatization Day 2
It was a beautiful day for acclimatization, and to climb a peak nearby to spend the day.
This beautiful morning shined upon Dingboche town in its full glory - with the mountain greens and the village Stupa standing out at its best.
The hike to the Nangkartshang Peak, which stands at 5100m from Dingboche at 4400m, was one of the highlights of the trek.
Halfway to the peak, we were rewarded with an exhaustingly breathtaking landscape.
The views are among the best of any walkable peak in the region. Kangtega, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Taboche, etc. are all visible in their full glory from the summit.
Nepal boasts of having 4 of the highest peaks in the world.
What a treat it was to view many of them at one time.
Day 7: DINGBOCHE TO LOBUCHE
Altitude: 4,900m/16,076ft Walking Distance: 11-12 km
Just a day more to EBC, & this is how the sun greeted us. The mountains lit up to unravel a gorgeous day. And one by one all the surrounding mountains turned into gold
It was time to head to Lobuche
Halfway there, we came across some small dwellings in the middle of nowhere, which are usually occupied in winters/monsoons by the locals.
Today as we headed to the lunch place, we crossed a much fun bridge, which also happened to be the last one of the journey.
Some dogs followed us all the way till the end of the trek. They were in love with the boys somehow. And we were in love with them :)
Digesting our lunch, we headed towards a small stop - a memorial place; an area dedicated to all those Everest summiteers, who had lost their lives - either during or post-summit.
The place was adorned by streams of prayer flags, a typical sight in the mountains. There is something so meditative and soothing about them that it makes the journey spiritual in an inexplicable way.
Dinner time was always welcoming. Finally sharing a picture from one of the offerings there. Not to forget, the super sumptuous food was yet another memorable part of the whole trek.
Day 8 : D Day: LOBUCHE TO GORAKSHEP AND EVEREST BASE CAMP, EBC TO GOREKSHEP: 5180m/16,994ft (Gorekshep) & 5364m/17598 (EBC) Distance of walking: 15km
The most awaited day was here, It was going to be EBC, was super excited, tired yet energetic and was in complete awe of these glaciers which we saw on our way to Gorekshep.
It was as if the landscape itself was preparing us to meet our final destination. The sky was clear; the mountains had given way. And just as we were nearing the base camp, the mighty Everest itself showed up. It was as if Everest itself was telling us, a little more and you shall see me.
As we progressed, we crossed many glacier-fed pathways with the nearby peaks showing off their unparalleled might.
Had to capture every bit of me, with every bit of what nature had in store.
The journey was almost coming to its culmination. The patience was starting to wither off. I remember almost having given up...tired as hell.
And then suddenly all these prayer flags emerged, marking the start of the base camp.
And yes , we were there...EBC 2017
I really don't know how to express that feeling in words.... happiness, joy, accomplishment, relief, contentment, astoundment, amazement, mesmerization .... & more ... I had done it...from never ever having trekked in my life, to my first trek ..none other than the much-hyped EBC. I was there. This was it.
Day 8: Kala Pathar
GOREKSHEP TO KALAPATHAR Altitude: 5,545m/18,192ft (Kalapathar) .
After all the excitement of EBC, and being literally dead when we came back to Gorekshep, we decided to climb Kala Patthar the same day.
The tour companies usually take people interested in doing the same either in the wee hours of the morning to see the sunrise or next day evening to see the sunset. However, our group was a bunch of super enthusiasts :)
The black rock peak all the way on the top in the pic is Kala Patthar. This is the place you need to get to, to catch the much talked about sunset.
The light illuminated the spectacular view of Nuptse Nup, Changtse, Lhotse and Mount Everest on the left.
From half the distance to the top, we could see this spectacle.
And as the sun went down, the mountains still shone in the twilight.
I was a bit too slow to climb up. The sun had already set, but not my ambition to make it to the top.
It was only 15 minutes more, to reach the top of Kala Pathar, so just decided to go for it, and end the day with yet another small personal accomplishment, I wanted to cherish and remember from my EBC journey.
Day 9 to 11: Head Back
The final 3 days were all about heading back & rejoicing in the memories of our adventurous sojourn.
Besides having accomplished a major feat, I made friends for life.
We all celebrated with other hikers in Namche Bazaar - the buzzing, fascinating town which has a few interesting pubs & cafes.
Being away from all digital connectivity, for the most part, was a blessing for all of us.
There was so much I discovered about myself, about being.
It was undoubtedly the TREK OF A LIFETIME !!!
Some Useful Tips & Info :
Travel Company :
I used the services of Himalayan Wonders & would highly recommend them.
Website : http://www.himalayanwonders.com
Duration :
I just did EBC without the side trips like Gokyo Lake, etc. So the total trip was 11 days + 2 days of landing in Kathmandu & flying back.
Most travel companies will ask you to keep a buffer of a few days, which is a good idea, as the flights from Lukla are weather dependent.
We were lucky to get our onward & return flights as per schedule, however other people on our trek got stuck for almost a week at Lukla on their way back as after 2 flights had taken off, the weather took a U-turn & no further flights took off thereon.
One can always charter one, but that apparently costs a bomb.
Travel Insurance :
It is a must. God forbid, if you fall ill, the rescue helicopters are the only way to get you back. There are very few companies which do this kind of travel insurance. It cost me 63 USD then.
The one we used was World Nomads.
Website: https://www.worldnomads.com
Physical Prep
It was an unplanned trip for me like most, so went unprepared to take up the physical challenge.
Not that it is impossible to do it, but would recommend some prep in case one is not too physically active in their daily routine. Atleast a month before start exercising, walking on elevation with weights up to 10kgs, as you will be trekking with a day pack, even though you might hire porters for the rest of the luggage.
Just combine cardio with weight training, it will help.
Most travel sites & blogs will give you all the information you need regarding preparing for basecamp trek, which you can look up.
Packing for Basecamp
Again there are many videos, travel blogs and advice on the net as to what to pack. Even the tour company you hire will give you a list which is handy .
Am sharing here the exhaustive list I used as a referral ... Pack the bare essentials only. Choose as per need and time of the year you traveling.
PACKING GEAR:
Main Trekking Bag X 1 no - Between 60 to 90 Lts
Day Pack X 1 no
WEARABLE ITEMS:
UG’s - 10 nos.
Sports bra - 2 nos.
Anti-blister socks - 4 nos
Wool Socks X 2 nos
Wool Hand Gloves X 1 no
Wool Balaclava X 1 no
Wool beanie cap X 1 nos - This should cover ears.
UV Hat X 1 no
Quick Dry Long Sleeve Tee X 2 nos
Thermal Full Sleeves Top x 2 nos
Quick Dry Short Sleeve Tee X 3 nos -1 remaining
Trekking Pants X 3 nos
Shorts x1 no
Light Weight Fleece Sweaters X 1 no
Wind/Rain Proof Overlay Jacket X 1 no
Wind/Rain Proof Overlay Pants X 1 no - Did not use
Down Jacket X 1 no
Camp Towel X 1 no
Trekking Shoes X 1 no
Pair Of Shoe Lace X 1 no
Casual Shoes or Slippers X 1 no
Sunglasses X 1 no
Normal socks X 1 no
Rain Poncho x 1 no
Sunglasses - Backup X 1 no
Empty water sipper
OTHER ITEMS:
Sleeping Bag X 1 no - Can buy or Rent
Sleeping bag liner
Paper Shower Box X 1 no - I used a basic wet wipe.
Hiking Poles X1 no - Put them in check in luggage. It became a problem as a carry on for me during security. ( Can rent or buy ) .
HEALTH & FITNESS ITEMS:
Tooth Brush - 1 no
Tooth Paste - 1 no
Shower Gel - 1 no
Shampoo/Conditioner - 1 no
Face wash - 1 no
Face moisturizer - 1 nos
Deo - 1 no (Loads of it!!)
Body lotion - 1 no
Sun Screen - 1 no (loads of it!!)
Talcum - 1 no
Lip Balm Stick - 1 no
Hand sanitizer - 1 no.
Tissue rolls - 6 nos
Wet wipes - 1 pack
Chocolate bars - 5 nos
Assorted nuts - 1 large pack - I packed them into 12 small bags. 1 for everyday
MEDICINES
Immodium - 5 packs (For motions)
Flexon - 1 packs (for muscle ache)
Crocin - 1 pack
Digene tabs - 1 packs
O2 - 1 pack (antibiotic for motions)
Band-aid - 1 pack
Relispray - 1 bottle
Chaffing cream
AMS Tablets - Diamox - 2 packs - Super useful!
Water Reservoir - Also called a Water Bladder - easy to use as you don’t have to constantly remove the bottle from the backpack. Buy the 2-liter pack.
Water Purification Tablets - You get it locally in Kathmandu for 70 bucks. In Namche Bazaar, it was for 700 bucks. Get about 100 tablets. That's 2 packets. It is safe to use, saves money and reduces garbage.
Empty zip lock & plastic bags
Needle & thread
Safety pins
GIZMOS & DEVICES:
Phone -2& Charger
Portable Charger with cable.
Multi charging point
Headlamp X 1 no
Batteries For Headlamp X 6 nos
Multi utility knife/opener/ etc -Did not use
iPod shuffle & cable
GoPro + Batteries(3)+chargers+accessories+pole
Camera+charger +battery+pole+joby
20000mah charger +10000 mah charger
Laptop+accessories
TRAVEL DOCUMENTS:
Passport
Passport Size Photos X 10 nos
Hotel Voucher
Air Tickets
Charging Devices & Camera Batteries
Well, the price for charging keeps going up as you head further in your trek. It could range from anywhere between 100-500 Nepali rupees for one full charge of your device/ per hour.
So carry multiple socket plugs, extra batteries, 20000 Mah power banks, solar power banks, etc to save on the same.
Hot Water for Shower
Shower facilities are there in all tea lodges. Again hot water costs more as you go further up.
Bottled Drinking Water
The cost for same follows the same line. You could buy mineral water or carry Water Purification Tablets (a much cheaper option).
Gear
All travel gear is readily available in Kathmandu, for purchase or rent, at very reasonable cost. So don't worry if you can't find anything back home or forget something.
You could also buy stuff in Namche and other towns; it's just that you end up paying more.
However, you cannot blame the prices as being touristy, because the only way to carry all the essentials to these villages is through human porters, who take as much as 100kgs on their back at times.
Cash
You will need cash to pay for above, plus also to pay for your tips at the end of the trek.
Around 20000 Nepali rupees or 200 USD should be sufficient.
Acclimatisation
We all had been having our recommended dose of Diamox tablets to avoid breathing issues, headaches or any other related symptoms. How much I hated that tablet ... with excessive urination, slightly nauseating feeling initially and in fact, I even lost my appetite. But then it was the one that made sure that I survived the whole trip with somewhat ease. I even skipped having it for a few days, only to take it one last time on the day we were heading to basecamp from Gorekshep.
It is advisable to take this tablet a day before starting the trek.
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