A trek cum pilgrimage in Nepal and India

CHENNAI KATHMANDU MANANG MUKTINATH GORAKHPUR LUCKNOW CHENNAI

24.09.2022 - 09.10.2022 sunny 23 °C

Prelude

Here is a brief recount of my 8th sojourn at the Himalayas after a few organized treks, drives and rides. What makes this trip special for me is that a friend and I got to do it unassisted which means we were all by ourselves on the lap of the Himalayas and got back in one piece to tell the story. Unlike the previous chartered treks where we had the luxury of the company of fellow trekkers (like it or not), company of mules to carry bags (if opted), company of porters, cooks, and guides to care for you, we had to plan anything and everything, including the body bag, no pun intended 😊

This trip was more of a trek-grimage since the first 9 days involved a 100+ KM trek on the trail of Annapurna Circuit in Nepal till Muktinath and the last 7 days were on road to pilgrim centres such as Varanasi, Ayodhya and Naimisharanya. We had a week's head start on the trail before the trekking season began and so were lucky to get lodgings at tea houses and food throughout the trek. We also watched the last spell of the monsoon as we moved on. For the riding leg, we hired a classic 350 and it turned out to be a 1000 KM fun filled trip. In summary, we experienced nature in all its colours, rain, shine, snow, haze, fog, mist and more.

Day Zero – September 23 2022 – Pack.. pack.. pack and pack

24.09.2022 - 23.09.2022 23 °C

1. ABISKO HIKE 35 – Best Backpack out there. Small is the big

2. Passport

3. Down jacket+

4. Sleeping bag+

5. Trek wear+

6. Thermals+

7. Jagannath for moral support 😊

+ means more articles on that category.

Shoes. Moab 2 Merrel. Life saver.

Day One – September 24, 2022 - Chennai – Delhi – Kathmandu

24.09.2022 - 09.10.2022 25 °C

Helter-skelter is how it usually begins, and it is no different this time. Missing packages, adding more burden, transactions, settling month-end dues and the icing was closing last minute calls, tickets, and delegation at office. Just another routine before the big day. As the punctual man he is, Naren called at 4 AM sharp from the pickup location. I was still 30 minutes away and knowing me he came with the cab straight to my place. With the usual excuses, off we drove to the airport. After the usual formalities, we boarded the flight. Reached Kathmandu by 5 PM and headed straight to the backpacker’s hostel. Had a fun time in the evening roaming the whole of Thamel Marg, the backpacker’s paradise.

Day Two – September 25, 2022 - Kathmandu

25.09.2022 - 26.09.2022 sunny 27 °C

Date: 25/09/2022 Day: Sunday Up Time: 06:30 AM Temp: 25° C Altitude: 700 M; Location: Kathmandu; Target: Get ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit) and TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management Systems. Find transport to Besisahar, a town in lower Himalayas from where we move to the greater Himalayas.

We usually hit the trail on the second or third day of the journey but this time it was only on the fifth day as getting the required permits and to travel to the base had to be planned by ourselves. We had figured the most part of where and how through our homework and it was a matter of time to get them done. We hired a Honda Navi to move around as travelling was getting hectic in terms of ₹ and language. Please be encouraged Hindi is widely spoken in Nepal.

Day Three – September 26, 2022 – Kathmandu – Besisahar

26.09.2022 - 27.09.2022 sunny 33 °C

Date: 26/09/2022 Day: Monday Up Time: 05:00 AM Temp: 25° C Altitude: 700 M Location: Kathmandu Target: Reach Besisahar

Now that the permits are done and we are cleared to proceed, we took the uneventful 8-hour bus trip to the town of Besisahar which is at 180 KM from Kathmandu. 8 Hour for a 180 Km journey you wonder? This was the start of the trekking season, but the local crowd was overwhelming as they were heading to their homes (Durga Puja is the most popular festival in Nepal, so we hear. It was a Diwali-Pongal Perungalathur traffic to relate to and the roads in Nepal are ..you know..). To top it off, we had to pass an under-construction bridge bypass, a big land slide along with a laid-back driver who kept smiling all the way through. Wondering what went on his mind. Found ourselves a wonderful place to stay and the moment we checked in, rain showered and how! It was as if we were to get to safety before showering. After the next 2 hours of furious rain, we went for a quick walk before crashing on our beds.

Day Four – September 27, 2022 – Besisahar – Manang

27.09.2022 - 28.09.2022 sunny 27 °C

Date: 27/09/2022 Day: Tuesday Up Time: 06:00 AM Temp: 25° C Altitude: 760 M Location: Besisahar Target: Manang Drive Time: 10 Hours

After a relaxing sleep, we were ready for the next destination. Actually true trekkers begin the trek from here but we do not have the luxury of 28 days leave though we wished we did. Choice 1 is to go up to Chame which is at an altitude of 2600 M, get acclimatised and start the trek from there or go directly to Manang (3500 M) and save 2 days of trekking. Choice 1 is the generally preferred solution since gaining a 3000 M altitude in one day is not good for the body and chances of getting AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) is high. Considering the days we can save, we dared option 2 knowing the effect and we were glad later we chose this. The drive was on a Bolero Pikup and we saw the capability of this 4*4 monster all the way. There were no paved roads at all for 3/4th of the journey and this vehicle just glided through at ease. The path was through the dense forests of lower Himalayas to the snow-clad mountains of the Himadri dotted with majestic waterfalls. Usually, a river, formed by the melting glaciers up above, will accompany us throughout on such journeys. This time it was the Marsyangdi river, the Ganges of Nepal. We took the tea house stoppings on the way for lunch and sightseeing. From here on, the food is set to get expensive since they are to be carried from all the way down. The Jeep we are travelling is in fact a cargo vehicle with supplies and rations to the mountains. By the time the 10 hour journey was over, I had already memorised a few Nepali songs that played repeatedly in the jeep. We are finally in the mountains and the chill breeze asserted it. I promise it will get more interesting from now on. Hang in there please.

Day Five – September 28, 2022 – Manang – Tilicho Base Camp

28.09.2022 - 29.09.2022 all seasons in one day 10 °C

Date: 28/09/2022 Day: Wednesday Up Time: 05:30 AM Temp: 10° C Altitude: 3550 M Location: Manang Target: Tilicho Base Camp Time on Trail: 9 Hours

Today marks our first day on the trail. We were in the Himadri (the greater or mid of Himalayan range) already and will trek around the ~200 KM long Annapurna Mountain range for the next 5 days. The first trekking day is always the difficult day, mentally and physically. You are all pumped up for the adventure ahead, but the mind-body connection is a challenge and syncing could take anywhere between 5 hours to a day. Considered a 6-hour trek, it took me 9 hours to make it and I was mentally more exhausted than physically. After an altitude gain of 700 M, we finally made it to the Tilicho Base Camp.

Day Six – September 29, 2022 – Tilicho Base Camp - Manang

29.09.2022 - 29.10.2022 all seasons in one day 3 °C

Date: 29/09/2022 Day: Thursday Up Time: 05:00 AM Temp: 3° C Altitude: 4150 M; Location: Tilicho Base Camp Target: Manang Time on Trail: 7 Hours

The purpose of going to Tilicho base camp is to get acclimatized and be ready for the big day on Oct 2. Also, we were in no mood to go up to Tilicho Lake which will be a daunting 5 hour walk, one way from here. Today’s plan is to trace back to Manang and rest well so we can start the real ascent from tomorrow. Having known this trail from yesterday and know what to expect, we were fairly faster and reached 2 hours earlier. Unlike the never-ending twists and turns before we could see the base camp yesterday, our minds were at ease and we took time to enjoy the grandiose in front of us. After a hot cup of soup at Shri Kharka and lemon teas at Khangsar, we were well ahead of time at Manang and chose another lodge to stay for the night.

Day Seven – September 30, 2022 – Manang – Churi Leddar

30.09.2022 - 30.09.2022 semi-overcast 10 °C

Date:30/09/2022 Day Friday: Up Time: 05:00 AM Temp: 10° C Altitude: 3500 M Location: Manang Target: Churi Leddar Time on Trail: 7 Hours

After a relatively good night’s sleep of 5+ hours (it was hardly 4 hours yesterday. Higher you go; lesser you can sleep), we are hitting the trail for the real deal from today. The past 2 days’ walk proved to be good acclimatization for us. We went to a medical camp yesterday to check if we were fine (!?!?) and apparently, we were told we can live another day. Our plan today was to reach Churi Leddar 4200 M, a 9 KM walk from Manang. We started around 7:30 AM after a good breakfast of paratha and omelette (I know we are in Purattasi but I need some energy for the day ahead so…). After a gradual ascent of a couple of hours, we had a stopover in Gunsung and had a Nepali special Seabuckthorn juice. And push forward for another couple of hours to reach Throng Pedi for lunch. We were starved by the time we reached here and had a good Dal Bhat. We shared the Andhra idly podi we carried with a few trekkers from Netherlands but didn’t meet them in the trail after to know the effect it had on their gut. Churi Leddar is the next stop and we made it in an hour. We had a wonderful accommodation here too and one of the best foods for night. The whole day was sunny and it was a blessing to have lot of shades too all the way. One of the easy and best days on the trail. As we reached pretty early, we caught up with a lot of trekkers and chatted our way through evening. Overnight, we watched the movie Prey on our Phone and got ready for a cold night. We watched Shawshank Redemption (maybe, my 89th time) and were expecting a good sleep after the long day's trek but I could hardly sleep for 3 hours. It was freezing outside and a night walk was out of question. Star gazing was also ruled out due to the cloudy sky. It turned out to be one of the longest nights on this trek. It is better to avoid any medication unless needed so, a sleeping pill was also of question. A half Beer was selling at 700 NPR but it is definitely a no-no considering a more difficult trek tomorrow.

Day Eight – October 01, 2022 – Churi Leddar - High Camp

01.10.2022 - 01.10.2022 semi-overcast 0 °C

Date: 01/10/2022 Day Saturday: Up Time: 05:00 AM Temp: 0° C Altitude: 4500 M Location: Churi Leddar Target: Throng High Camp Time on Trail: 9 Hours

Distance to be travelled today is hardly 5 km but every step you take is more than an effort at this altitude. As usual, we started early after a nice breakfast (Tibetan bread, which is close to our Chola puri and a hot cup of black tea). This is a rain shadow region and water was scarce here but the glaciers are visible from afar which feed and flood rivers downstream. Nature's diversity at best. The valley that leads to Throng Pedi is a dead end and raises up to high camp towards the left. It was an imposing 700 M steep peak beyond which is Thorong La, our ultimate destination. Throng Pedi restaurant is a warm paradise even at this freezing weather and they served anything from a black tea to Pizza. The owner of this joint is an interesting guy who had shaped up the place so tastefully that restaurants at lower altitudes can take lessons. It was amazing how they brought so many things ( a 50" LED TV, for example) to this altitude. All these are so different from the Indian side of trekking where a good lavatory is considered luxury but I prefer it anytime. Nature is best enjoyed with the least luxury. We reached Throng Pedi well ahead of time and are ready to scale the High camp for overnight stay. We began the ascent to the High Camp around 11 AM and by the time we reached, it started to snow. It was very sunny at Throng Pedi when we started. That's how the weather can change in the higher altitudes. We played a game of chess, ate Pizza, sat by the warm heater, chatted with fellow trekkers and played in the snow before retiring to our room. The big day is already looming large as we tried to shut eyes in anticipation to the summit of Thorong La tomorrow at an altitude of 5416 M.

Day Nine – Oct 02, 2022 – Hi Camp - Muktinath via Thorong La

02.10.2022 - 02.10.2022 snow -3 °C

Date: 02/10/2022 Day: Sunday: Up Time: 03:00 AM Temp: -3° C Altitude: 4880 M Location: Throng High camp Target: Muktinath via Thorong La Time on Trail: 13 Hours

The D-Day is here! This was the day we had been planning for the past 4 years. The Summit Day. Generally, summit days start early and it is no exception this time too. To top it off, this is my personal highest summit at 5416 M. Been to Khardung La in the Leh region last year which was higher at 5600 M but it was on a bike. All packed and ready, we hit the trail around 5:30 AM. It was pitch dark outside and we navigated with the head torch, one step at a time. The last evening's snow, cast a white carpet over the valley and it was a sight to behold. The first tea point was at 5000 M and we rested for a while before proceeding. This was one of the moments I enjoyed thoroughly from being solo. On the organized treks, our guide would chase us to start quickly but for good reason; The weather can and will turn bad ANY moment and we are expected to summit as early as possible and start the descent. Though not on my previous treks, I have heard of instances where the summit was called off the last minute as the weather was bad ahead. Not today. Not to us. We continued after a rejuvenating black tea and were one of the last batch on the trail. Scary for sure. Another 2 hours of gradual ascent and a sharp left turn after, we saw the sign of the Summit. It is a feeling best felt in person. We are finally at Thorong La, the 5416 M summit. We both were emotional and were short of words. After a few minutes of silence, we finally soaked in the moment and started our photo rituals. It is advised not to spend more than 15 minutes at such altitudes due to the low oxygen levels. We were lucky, the Sun was shining brightly (actually a bad sign) and spent more than 30 minutes drinking hot lemon tea and enjoying the time. This concludes the trek unofficially and every pain we endured was well worth it. Half heartedly, but for the sake of our lives, we decided to descend bidding goodbye to the pass. It is going to be a long descent before we can meet Muktinath, 2000 M down below. Did I say the Sun shining brightly was a bad sign? In deed it was. The snow that settled on the peaks higher up started melting and a huge block of snow thudded on a nearby mountain causing a small avalanche! We panicked and started descending faster. Thankfully, the valley was huge and wide to contain the melting glacier/ice. After a laborious 5 hours walk down the trail, we reached the first village before Muktinath where we had lunch and headed for the final leg of the trek and reached Muktinath around 6 PM. What an eventful day it was. This day will be etched in my memory for the rest of my life.