Banavasi - The Pride of Karnataka

ತ್ಯಾಗದ ಭೋಗದಕ್ಕರದ ಗೇಯದ ಗೊಟ್ಟಿಯಲಂಪಿನಿಂಪುಗ

ಳ್ಗಾಗರವಾದ ಮಾನಸರೆ ಮಾನಸರಂತವರಾಗಿ ಪುಟ್ಟಲೇ

ನಾಗಿಯುಮೇನೊ ತೀರ್ದಪುದೆ ತೀರದೊಡಂ ಮರಿದುಂಬಿಯಾಗಿ

ಮೇಣ್ಕೋಗಿಲೆಯಾಗಿ ಪುಟ್ಟುವುದು ನಂದನದೊಳ್ ವನವಾಸಿ ದೇಶದೊಳ್

- ಆದಿಕವಿ ಪಂಪ

This beautiful country of Banavasi is filled with the people rich in sacrifice, luxury, education, music, art & concert who lead a complete satisfactory life. It's a divine virtue of someone to be reborn as human in this Nation. If not that, at least I wish to be reborn as a Beetle or a Cuckoo who can roam around ever-fresh gardens of this sweetest land of Banavasi. 

-Adikavi Pampa 

That's how Pampa, Kannada's first well known poet describes his beloved beautiful land of Banavasi. This small town in the present-day Uttara Kannada district deserves the highest honours in Karnataka's history for two reasons. One, Banavasi was the capital of Kadamba dynasty, the very first indigenous kingdom who ruled with Kannada as their administrative language. Secondly, it's the birth town of Kannada's first prominent poet Pampa, who held the place very close to his heart.

After enjoying high glory nearly 12 centuries ago, the town is nearly ruined, except for one exemplary architectural marvel, Sri Madhukeshwara Temple. I had heard a lot about Banavasi in my Kannada and History classes. But it was only when I visited this place that I could feel that greatness myself. That pride of being Kannadiga was flying for all the time I was on this soil. After all, I was standing on the grounds which echoed the greatness of Kannada language through a dynasty and a legendary poet for centuries. As a tribute to both, I'm writing this short blog with few insights and some information to help my fellow visitors.

History of Banavasi: Banavasi is recognized as one of the oldest living towns in India dating back until 3 rd Century AD. The inception of Kadamba dynasty by Mayurasharma is itself one enthralling chapter in the history of India. Banavasi was the centre of that historical event when a common man revolted against oppression of the mighty Pallavas and defeated them to establish a new dynasty, The KADAMBAS, which later went on to become famous by the name, Kadambas of Banavasi.

Many Kannada inscriptions and Copper coins from 5 th century AD were recovered from the recent archaeological excavations here. The town which was immensely rich and prosperous during the Kadamba rule was said to be popular throughout India. The place finds its mention in poems by Kalidasa in Chamarasa and in the writings of Huen Tsang, a Chinese traveler-monk from 7 th century.

Sri Mahattobara Madhukeshwara Temple: The only structure which survives till date to tell us the glorious history of the oldest town of Karnataka is the Sri Mahattobara Madhukeshwara temple. Dedicated to lord Shiva & built-in early 5 th century by the latter rulers of Kadamba dynasty, the temple has undergone several renovations from the subsequent rulers of Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas and Hoysalas. In a way, it is truly the collective symbol of architectural mastery of all major Kannada dynasties. Adikavi Pampa, who was a patronage in under Chalukya king Arikesari II scripted Kannada's legendary poems Adipurana and Vikramarjuna Vijaya from this very place.

Location & Modes to Reach: The town resides in the peaceful western ghats region of Sirsi in Uttara Kannada district, on the banks of Varada River.

Banavasi is at a distance of 390KMs from Bangalore. Deviation from Ranebennur on NH48 towards Sirsi for 90KMs would take you to the place. Connecting roads are in good condition and a drive would not be a tiring one.

Using public transport, direct buses are available to Sirsi or Soraba from where connecting buses can be taken. Sirsi is the nearest railway station too.

Best time to Visit: Though the temple remains open and accessible through out the year, I would say the post-monsoon months of August to October are the best times.

As said, Banavasi is in the Sahyadri region and surrounded with rich farmlands of paddy, sugarcane and arecanuts. Monsoon rains don't just enrich the place with green but also create number of waterfalls in the surrounding making it a beautiful sight to behold.

Temple stays open from 6:30AM to 8:30PM for all the days of week.

Architecture Marvel of Madhukeshwara: Being one of the oldest temples of Karnataka, the temple is a showmanship of Architectural workmanship of 600 years from 5 th century to 12 th century. It derives its name Madhukeshwara as it houses the honey hued Shivalinga. Honey translates to Madhu in Kannada. Though the present day temple structure was built in 9 th century, it is said that the initial structure was commissioned by the Kadamba's first ruler, Mayura Sharma himself.

Guarded by two large elephant carvings at front, the huge main doors of the temple opens up to a vast enclosed area with the main gopuram at the centre. Opposite to it, you will find one of the most beautiful carvings of Laksmi Narasimha statue ever along with the 30ft high Nandi stamba. This stamba/pole symbolizes the guardian Nandi and has a diya lit inside for 24/7 even till date. The centre shrine houses the main deity Madhukeshwara along with one of the rarest Brahma statues next to it. So, Brahma, Vishnu & Maheshwara, each of the trimurthis are seen under one roof here.

Now, the Hoysalas come in with their trademark structure of Nritya Mandapa. Built right opposite to the centre sanctum of Madhukeshwara idol, Nritya mandapa houses the famous 7ft monolithic statue of Nandi. This portion of the temple is the most beautiful and exquisitely carved structure with intriguing designs on ceiling, walls and pillars. After all, this the workmanship of the architectural superiors of Karnataka, the Hoysals.

It doesn't matter how much devotional person you are. But this temple will surely treat you with a peace of mind. Going around the temple shrine thrice might or might not give you moksha, but it definitely satisfies your soul. On top, if you are a Architectural or History fan or a proud Kannadiga this is one the most blissful places you can ever be in.

"This intricately Carved Stone cot and a Triloka mandapa by Sonde rulers is one of the fascinating structures inside the temple. The noteworthy point here is that whole cot along with Shiva-Parvathi inside is carved out of granite which is not at all an easy task."

The walls of temple features very optimum level of ornamentation in the carvings of idols and doesn't overdo it anywhere. Even the walls are of bright yellow/orange hued, justifying the name of Madhukeshwara temple. The notable Chalukyan contribution here is the addition of Sankalpa Mandapa to the North of garbhagriha. Apart from that, the temple walls are surrounded by little idols of many forms of Shiva and Vishnu along with two sperate sanctums for Parvathi and Ganesha.

As said, what stands out here from all other temples is that minimal yet elegant workmanship. Though it underwent many renovations, it should be noted none of the dynasties have tried to forcefully fit in their designs. It was altered only for the required portion and only to enhance its beauty without overwriting the existing. And that's why this temple hit me with whole different level of satisfaction. I repeat, I was amazed by its unmatchable elegance.

Things to know before visiting:

1. Banavasi is the Oldest Town in Karnataka. It is also top ranked in the very few oldest living towns of India. Even after Chalukyas and Hoysalas, Sri Madhukeshwara was worshipped divinely by the kingdoms Sodhe Nayakas, Vijayanagara and Mysore kings. 

2. The visit to temple is completely free. Only charges are of parking for 20rs. 

3. Kadambotsava, a regional fest is held by Karnataka government every year in winter and also presents lifetime achievement award of Pampa Award for deserving Kannada writers.

4. There are no worthy hotels or guest houses to stay at Banavasi. Nearest option for your stay would be Sirsi.

5. Don't miss visiting the banks of Varada river which is at a walkable distance from temple. This sacred river has a great mythological importance in Hindu puranas.

Nearby Places to Visit:

Sirsi Marikamaba Temple: I believe every Kannadiga has heard this name at least once. Famous for its biggest fest throughout India, Sirsi Marikamba Temple dedicated to Goddess Durga is just 23KMs away from Banavasi.

Sahasralinga: 35KMs from Banavasi, on the banks of Shalmala river you get to see this beautiful sight of thousands of little Shivalingas carved on the river rocks. Place is worshipped very divinely and has a mythological history behind it. 

Sonda Vadiraja Matha: Near to Sahasralinga is this prominent Mata established by Sri Madhwacharya. It's very peaceful and a great place for meditation. 

Gudavi Bird Sanctuary: Just 15KMs from Banavasi. Best time to visit is July to December months. Apart from these, as mentioned earlier, in the monsoon and post monsoon months the whole area is surrounded by numerous little waterfalls and lush green fields everywhere. You don't need a name to enjoy the raw beauty of nature, isn't it? 

This is usually where I say what I felt at any place I visit and what the fellow visitors can expect of. But I have said enough of that in the earlier sections while saying about the temple. Now, I just want to end it from where it started, the words of Adikavi Pampa.

ಸೊಗಯಿಸಿ ಬಂದ ಮಾಮರನೆ ತಳ್ತೆಲೆವಳ್ಳಿಯೆ ಪೂತಜಾತಿ ಸಂ

ಪಗೆಯೆ ಕುಕಿಲ್ವ ಕೋಗಿಲೆಯೆ ಪಾಡುವ..... ತುಂಬಿಯೆ ನಲ್ಲರೊಳ್ಮೊಗಂ

ನಗೆಮೊಗದೊಳ್ ಪಳಂಚಲೆಯೆ ಕೂಡುವ ನಲ್ಲರೆ ನೋಳ್ಪೊಡಾವ ಬೆ

ಟ್ಟುಗಳೊಳಮಾವ ನಂದನವನಂಗಳೊಳಂ ಬನವಾಸಿ ದೇಶದೊಳ್||

ತ್ಯಾಗದ ಭೋಗದಕ್ಕರದ ಗೇಯದ ಗೊಟ್ಟಿಯಲಂಪಿನಿಂಪುಗ

ಳ್ಗಾಗರವಾದ ಮಾನಸರೆ ಮಾನಸರಂತವರಾಗಿ ಪುಟ್ಟಲೇ

ನಾಗಿಯುಮೇನೊ ತೀರ್ದಪುದೆ ತೀರದೊಡಂ ಮರಿದುಂಬಿಯಾಗಿ ಮೇಣ್

ಕೋಗಿಲೆಯಾಗಿ ಪುಟ್ಟುವುದು ನಂದನದೊಳ್ ವನವಾಸಿ ದೇಶದೊಳ್||

ತೆಂಕಣಗಾಳಿ ಸೋಂಕಿದೊಡಂ ಒಳ್ನುಡಿಗೇಳ್ದೊಡಮಿಂಪನಾಳ್ದ ಗೇ

ಯಂ ಕಿವಿವೊಕ್ಕೊಡಂ ಬಿರಿದ ಮಲ್ಲಿಗೆಗಂಡೊಡಮಾದ ಕೆಂದಲಂ

ಪಂಗೆಡೆಗೊಂಡೊಡಂ ಮಧುಮಹೋತ್ಸವಮಾದೊಡಮೇನನೆಂಬೆ ನಾ

ರಂಕುಸವಿಟ್ಟೊಡಂ ನೆನೆವುದೆನ್ನ ಮನಂ ವನವಾಸಿ ದೇಶಮಂ||

Translation:

ಆ ಬನವಾಸಿ ದೇಶದ ಯಾವ ಬೆಟ್ಟಗಳಲ್ಲಿಯೂ ಉದ್ಯಾನವನಗಳಲ್ಲಿಯೂ ನೋಡುವುದಾದರೆಸೊಗಸಾಗಿ ಫಲ ಬಿಟ್ಟಿರುವ ಮಾವಿನ ಮರಗಳೇ; ದಟ್ಟವಾಗಿ ಸೇರಿಕೊಂಡಿರುವ ವಿಳ್ಳೆಯದೆಲೆಯಬಳ್ಳಿಗಳೇ, ಹೂವನ್ನು ಬಿಟ್ಟಿರುವ ಜಾಜಿ ಮತ್ತು ಸಂಪಗೆ ಗಿಡಗಳೇ; ಸುಸ್ವರವಾಗಿ ಧ್ವನಿಮಾಡುವ ಕೋಗಿಲೆ,ಝೇಂಕರಿಸುವ ದುಂಬಿಗಳೇ, ಪ್ರೇಯಸಿಯರ ಒಳ್ಳೆಯ ಮುಖಗಳೇ, ನಗುಮುಖದಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರತಿಭಟಿಸಿ ಕೂಡುವ ನಲ್ಲರೇ||

ಆ ಬನವಾಸಿ ದೇಶದಲ್ಲಿ ತ್ಯಾಗ, ಭೋಗ, ವಿದ್ಯೆ, ಸಂಗೀತ-ಗೋಷ್ಠಿಗಳ ಸಂತೋಷ ಸೌಖ್ಯಕ್ಕೆಅರ್ಹರಾಗಿರುವ ಮನುಷ್ಯರೇ ಮನುಷ್ಯರು. ಅಂತಹ ಅದೃಷ್ಟಶಾಲಿಗಳಾದ ಮನುಷ್ಯರಾಗಿ ಹುಟ್ಟಲುಏನಾದರೂ ತಾನೇ ಸಾಧ್ಯವೇ? ಹಾಗೆ ಸಾಧ್ಯವಾಗದಿದ್ದರೂ ಆ ಬನವಾಸಿದೇಶದ ನಂದನವನಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಮರಿದುಂಬಿಯಾಗಿಯೋ ಅಥವಾ ಕೋಗಿಲೆಯಾಗಿಯೋ ಹುಟ್ಟಬೇಕು||

ಅತಿಸುಖಹೇತುಗಳಾದ ದಕ್ಷಿಣ ದಿಕ್ಕಿನ ತಂಪಾದ ಗಾಳಿಯ ಸ್ಪರ್ಶವಾದರೂ, ಒಳ್ಳೆಯ ಮಾತನ್ನು ಕೇಳಿದರೂ,ಇಂಪಾದ ಗಾನವು ಕಿವಿಯನ್ನು ಪ್ರವೇಶಿಸಿದರೂ, ಅರಳಿದ ಮಲ್ಲಿಗೆಯ ಹೂವನ್ನು ಕಂಡರೂ,ನಿದ್ರಾಮುದ್ರಿತವಾದ ರತಿಸೌಖ್ಯಕ್ಕೆ ಪಾತ್ರವಾದರೂ, ವಸಂತೋತ್ಸವ ಪ್ರಾಪ್ತವಾದರೂ, ಏನು ಹೇಳಲಿಅಂಕುಶದಿಂದ ತಿವಿದರೂ, ನನ್ನ ಮನಸ್ಸು ಬನವಾಸಿ ದೇಶವನ್ನು ನೆನೆಯುವುದು||

- ಆದಿಕವಿ ಪಂಪ

In this land of Banavsi, you look at any mountain or garden only to spot prosperous Mango trees filled with fruits, the vines of Betal leaves spread everywhere, the blossoming jasmine and champak flowers, the cuckoos which are singing in a pleasant tone, the buzzing bees, the beautiful faces of beloved women and the sweetest couples who are enjoying happily in love.

This beautiful country of Banavasi is filled with the people rich in sacrifice, luxury, education, music, art & concert who lead a complete satisfactory life. It's a divine virtue of someone to be reborn as human in this Nation. If not that, at least I wish to be reborn as a Beetle or a Cuckoo who can roam around ever-fresh gardens of this sweetest land of Banavasi.

Even if I'm offered with the utmost pleasures of life with a cool breeze from south, hearing all praises about me, listening to the melodious music, looking at the freshly blossomed jasmine, enjoying the intimate pleasure of making love, treated with grand spring festival or at the end even if I'm stamped by an iron rod, my heart still keeps beating for Banavasi