This was to be yet another one of my backpacking experiences in India. A 6 weeks long itinerary of west, Northwest and central north of India and I was kicking it off with the first destination on the list - Jodhpur, Rajasthan.
The easiest, cheap and comfortable way to get to Jodhpur I thought was to take the newly inaugurated SBIB-BGKT Express 14280 from sabarmati Jn. - Bhagat ki Kothi station in Jodhpur. The 9 hour train ride in a comfortable A/C chair car cost me 580 INR.
Getting off at BGKT early in the morning my acquired skills of bargaining (necessary to travel in Indian subcontinent) got me a private auto to drive me into the city for 15 INR.
Arriving really early in the city (3 AM) Bob's hostel was my savior. A minutes walk from Kunj Bihari Temple into Kansara street and there it was. I managed to get an empty(available) bed for just 130 INR.
A good 4 hours sleep and a hearty breakfast meal with a refreshing cup of ginger tea, I was ready to hit the streets (Also just in time to check into my actual booked accommodation 😋).
Royal Heritage guest house:
Ms.Reena the manager at the guest house was waiting for me to show up and ended up being a real good friend with me.
She was a real help throughout my stay. The Guest house offers private rooms with air conditioning and a terrace with breathtaking views of the city.
The accommodation here cost me 310 INR a night. The Rooftop restaurant and a Korean cafe is available for breakfast,lunch and dinner.
It is located in a popular area called Umaid chowk- popular for cycling and bike hire.
The first location on my list definitely had to be the big'ol MehranGarh fort. No matter where you are in the city its shadow doesn't leave you alone for a moment.
It is easily accessible by an auto or a rental bike but I personally suggest a hike to the top through the narrow lanes of the Jodhpur old town.
Mehrangarh Fort stands a hundred feet in splendor on a perpendicular cliff, four hundred feet above the sky line of Jodhpur. Burnished red sand stone, imposing, invincible and yet with a strange haunting beauty that beckons . Much has been written about the Citadel of the Sun, for truly, it is one of the most impressive in all Rajasthan. So colossal are its proportions that Rudyard Kipling called it “ the work of giants”. Today, it is acknowledged as one of the best preserved fort in India.
If you're in Jodhpur- it is the must go!!!
I decided to spend the later half of the day walking and exploring the town. The clock tower square is the most prominent market place and hub of Jodhpur. It also separates old town from the new city as not cabs would drive you further in from there, you can either walk, cycle or bike your way into it.
Thus, I decided to spend the later half of the day walking and exploring the town. Walking down the streets towards the Dedicated blue city area of old town, I found myself at...
It was the perfect pitstop for me to rest my feet for a while and continue walking ahead.
Toorji Ka Jhalra (Toorji’s Step Well) was built in Jodhpur the 1740s by a Queen, Maharaja Abhay Singh’s Consort, continuing an age old tradition that Royal women would build public water works.
Interestingly this well was submerged and full of debris for decades. Only recently has it been drained, cleaned up and restored. In the process, the excavations went down over two hundred feet to expose hand carved treasures in Jodhpur’s famous rose-red sandstone; including intricate carvings of dancing elephants, medieval lions and cow water-spouts, as well as niches housing deities long gone.
The best thing about it is, its daily maintenance is looked after by mainly volunteers and the local people- the water is clean and consumable with tiny fishes in plenty of cool blue water.
Jodhpur itself is known as the blue city of course but the actual blue city is a few blocks of old town houses and lanes which are restored and preserved traditional residential buildings. The architecture is quite old and obvious with low hanging ceilings and small 'kevads' and the walls painted in blue lime paint.
The end of my walk brought me to my ever so favorite place in the city. Located in the heart of the blue city is Rani Mahal.
This boutique hotel has a gorgeous terrace with a fabulous rear view of MehranGarh fort. I enjoyed my evening here in company of mrs.bhandari the hotel manager (whose acquaintance I had made in my previous trip to Jodhpur) she also opens her personal residence as a home stay located a few blocks away.
The view of sunset with a cold beer and lights that came up on the fort as if into a real life fairytale.
The following morning, I was ready to check myself out and enjoy a satisfyingly balanced breakfast meal at this wonderful cafe. It offer not only good food but with a view of The Gulab sagar lake.
By this time, it was about time I head to Jodhpur Jn. and catch my fast ride on to my next destination!!!
Recommendation:
Over all travel cost within Jodhpur = 550 INR
Food cost per day = 300 INR
Fort entry and museum = 4o INR Indian tourists and 400 INR for tourist of other nationalities.
Accommodation in Jodhpur (based on your choice of stay ) can go on from 100 INR per person per night to 70k a night!!
Best time to visit Jodhpur is year round if you're used to the Indian weather, however I suggest the fall months after September to March.
Jodhpur has many other places to offer not mentioned in this itinerary as it was part of a long itinerary. I have covered not mentioned locations in a previous trip