It’s a cliche Monday morning, my mind is engulfed with boredom while my feet impatiently tap to the rhythm of raindrops. On a momentary lapse, I close my eyes only to be taken back to my trip to Florence. It takes immense self-control to not make for a run to the city that’s carved with authenticity and extraordinary architecture.
Florence is so close to my heart. Every corner, every turn filled me up with wonderment. What makes it more special are the hidden treasures that are easily overshadowed by giant monuments. They’re so easy to miss if you’re not looking for them on purpose.
This is not a guide for tourists who want to explore Florence. There are enough already available online. I’m here to share my personal experience and non-tourist corners of Florence that made my journey memorable.
1. Firenze Paper Mache
Location: Via de´Bardi, 58, 50125 Firenze
I’ll admit, this wasn’t a personal discovery, but recommended by my professor who worked there 25 years ago. She reminisces her summer in ’94 with Bijan, the shop owner, infamous for playing Farsi blasting music during the crack of dawn. He specialises in Comedia del Arte masks, they’re one-of-a-kind in the whole of Florence. One can easily spot the influence of Florence in his work - brimming with imagination and creativity.
You can even find his online store: https://www.firenzeofpapiermache.it
2. Clet Studio
Location: 50125, Via dell'Olmo, 8, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
While taking a stroll on the cobbled alleys, more often than not, you’ll come across unusual street signs. Hard to notice at first, but once you do, you’ll see them everywhere. Clet Abraham is a French artist who transforms boring street signs into quirky art pieces through his imagination. Viewing Florence through his eyes, gives this archaic city, a contemporary edge.
3. That violin store
Location: Jamie Marie Lazzara-Via dei leoni 4/R-50122 Florence
This one’s very close to me. It was suppose to be a walk towards the Duomo, when, from the corner of my eye, I spotted a light bulb illuminating the compact room. What caught my attention was the plethora of hand carved wooden violins. On peeping closer, I found out the owner of the workshop is Jamie Marie Lazzara.
Turns out, Ridley Scott, selected her shop to film a scene for his movie “Hannibal”. The maestro even played violin, during the inauguration of President Obama on January 20, 2009. And I’ve just started with her accomplishments, you can read more on http://www.masterviolinmaker.info/biography.html
I visited her workshop 3 times, during my 4 day stay in Florence, and unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to visit her. But next time, if I ever visit Florence, I’m dedicating myself a couple of hours only to speak to her.
4. Illegal After hours Bakeries
Location: Not specific, depends on your luck, really.
Operating hours: 12 - 4 am.
Every night when people kiss goodnight and turn out their lights, these bakeries are just getting started for the day. There’s no route on google maps to get there, just follow the smell of freshly baked bread and your intuition. These bakeries aren’t illegal per se, it’s just they’re not suppose to operate post midnight.
Here’s how it works:
Once you spot the bakery, knock on the window, place 1 euro coin and wait to be served - usually a croissant. No pleasantries to be exchanged. The bakers aren’t fucking around, they mean business. Talk about cheap thrills..
5. The great synagogue
Location: Via Luigi Carlo Farini, 4, 50121 Firenze
This one was on the last day, the last spot before I reluctantly got my ass out of the city. The synagogue is a classic blend of Arabic and Byzantine architecture and design. Geometric patterns, Venetian styled mosaic, and pink limestone facade gives this synagogue another worldly charm. Trust me, what you’ll be looking at is an exemplary testimony of the life of Jews in Florence.
Florence surpasses the ordinary definition of a city. It’s a feeling that tugs at your heart, every time you reminisce the the city’s panoramic sunsets or its renaissance vibe. Although a melting pot of tourist, Florence offers a unique experience to each one in its own glorious way.