Most visitors head to Nepal for its mountain landscapes, Kathmandu’s heritage sites and the popular lakeside getaway, Pokhara. But the Royal Chitwan National Park (CNP) is gaining traction. Chitwan’s eastern gateway village of Sauraha is the most-visited spot — because all organized package tours lead here.
Meghauli however is a rustic little gem I tend to choose over Sauraha. It is the western entrance to the Chitwan National Park.
How to reach Meghauli:
Assuming your trip starts at Kathmandu, you could take any tourist bus from Kathmandu to Chitwan, and ask to get off a place called Chaubees Koti in Bharatpur (Chitwan’s main city). From here, there’s regular direct local buses to Meghauli, and it’s a pleasant 50-minute ride on smooth, country roads. The bus ticket cost 80NPR in late 2022.
Chaubees Koti - https://goo.gl/maps/sEKRgvUYUBikBS328
Once at Meghauli, visitors could stay at a Tharu Homestay or at Chital Lodge which is in the neighboring village of Telauli. More affluent tourists camp out at Meghauli Serai or Barahi Jungle Lodge.
Here's some cool things to do in Meghauli:
1. Explore the jungle
The jungle walk with a local guide inside the Chitwan National Park (CNP) is NOT for the faint-hearted. Rhino mother and baby sightings are quite frequent. Experienced guides lead visitors to spots where rare and endemic species are spotted - the sloth bear, one-horned rhino, gharial crocs, and so on. You'll probably never look at a zoo in the same light again after seeing these magnificent creatures in their natural habitats.
2. Royal Bengal Tiger encounter
This one deserves a special mention because not many visitors have been able to spot the tiger in Sauraha. Meghauli on the other hand reports more sightings. Bishnu Bhusal, an experienced jungle walk guide has had numerous sightings and encounters with the tigers. Prep yourself mentally before setting out – the guides have had way more drama with tourists having a meltdown in the jungle than with the tigers themselves.
3. A Jeep Safari is a good idea too
Quite a few visitors opt for the jeep safari out of a sense of psychological comfort. A guide and driver will accompany you, both on heightened alert to spot animals and birds, even a sun-tanning turtle on a river stone. Drivers and guides are under a lot of pressure to scour and sight animals, and quickly point them out because, honestly in the jungle, wildlife sightings can be a "one blink and you miss it" affair. Tourists are disappointed when they come away having spotted nothing. But most visitors to Meghauli have never been let down.
4. Spot wildlife from the Watchtowers
A third option for wildlife sightings would be the view towers. One such tower is located right beside the Bhojraj Baba Temple. The tower offers far-stretching views of the grasslands, rainforests and river. A good pair of binoculars is a must (your guide will usually get one along). It seems like it is possible to pass the night at the top of the tower for a small fee. Check though. Another watchtower is in the environs of the Golaghat Reserve sunset view point.
https://goo.gl/maps/6Tn6rkC7vE9hjEnEA
5. River Sunsets
Just six kms west of Meghauli is the Golaghat reserve, a vantage point for sunsets over the confluence of the Narayani & Rapti rivers. Sun flares, golden waters, a strange Goa vibe. If lucky as I was, you might catch a rhino swimming across the river —they are unexpectedly fast swimmers. Sunset time-lapses are always fun if you enjoy videography.
6. Boat rides on the river
Your lodge owner could arrange a rafting trip or a boat excursion that starts in the late afternoon and ends at Golaghat, just in time to catch the sun set over the confluence. The river currents sometimes move in tandem with the crocodiles gliding past. You'll catch quite a few sun-basking on the banks especially during winter.
7. Bird and Animal Photography
Wildlife and photography enthusiasts are in luck in Meghauli. The 30x, 50x or 60x optical zoom cameras will prove very useful. Meghauli welcomes a wide range of migratory birds every season — giant hornbills, black storks, lesser floricans, etc. Pangolins, civets, hyenas, and Gangetic dolphins have been spotted too.
8. Culture travelers
Culture enthusiasts will certainly enjoy meeting the indigenous Tharu community who've lived in the jungle in close proximity with the animals for ages. Their stories are interesting and inspiring. Many visitors opt to spend a couple of nights at a Tharu homestay in Meghauli. The homestays are numbered 1-8 and clearly marked. It is a rustic way of living, so no modern creature comforts. This is an approximate location of the homestays. https://goo.gl/maps/MqEzA68RiqshBPY39
9. Local Food and Drink
While you'll definitely taste Tharu cuisine while staying at a homestay, your lodge or hotel owner could organize a meal with the homestay owner too. Chital Lodge for example, arranges for their guests to have a dinner at a Tharu homestay. Their prices are reasonable too. Mention-worthy dishes include the sticky rice cooked in a clay pot, dhikri (a steamed rice flour dish), duck chili, small fish caught from local ponds, and the notorious "ghongi" (snails fished out of ponds/paddy fields). Getting (suctioning?) the meat out of the shell is a skill in itself so good luck mastering it. For the rest, toothpicks will do. Most homestays will also offer you a home-brewed alcohol — clear like water and potent.
10. Cycle Rides
Food, jeeps and boats aside, the plains of Chitwan are superb for long cycle rides especially after the sun has set. The skies here turn a deep shade of watermelon-pink and this is no exaggeration. Enjoy them while on a cycle ride or hire a scooty to explore the surrounding villages.
Why I go back to Meghauli
- The jeeps used in the safaris in Meghauli are fitted with really quiet engines, noiseless almost. Three years ago, Sauraha's safari jeeps were loud, and there was a steady stream of these pouring into the jungle each morning breaking the tranquil environs. Perhaps this has changed.
- Not sure about Sauraha, but I definitely got a glimpse of snow-clad mountain peaks from Golaghat in Meghauli one late afternoon. Quite a reminder of the rich diversity of Nepal's natural landscapes - rhinos strolling through yellow grasslands, rolling hills, and snow-capped Himalayan peaks - all in one frame. So out of this world.
- Sauraha is commercialized and so prices there are way more expensive. Meghauli (in my opinion and experience) has retained its innocence and charm. There’s a warmth and honesty in every encounter.
There are however travelers who appreciate Sauraha for its happening vibes. International and domestic tourists everywhere, travel agencies, cafes, bars, shops, lots of creature comforts.
I guess both have their charm depending on what you seek. Why not explore both?
For those interested, here are the details of Chital Lodge in Meghauli. Google Maps: https://g.page/chitallodge?share
Phone - +977 9845951439
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