Despite occupying the centre of our country, Madhya Pradesh has never quite been at the centre of our attention. The snowy peaks of the north, the diversity of the south, the vast nothingness of the west and the virginity of the northeast all tempt us with their charms and we criminally ignore the natural, cultural and architectural gems of Madhya Pradesh. To those who want to venture into this beautiful state, I present the Golden Triangle of Madhya Pradesh. This triangle covers the whole spectrum - medieval ruins, impenetrable forts, tiger reserves, cultural gems, colourful canyons, tribal villages, roaring waterfalls and more.
The Bateshwar Temple Complex in Chambal Valley was virtually off-limits to the outside world for years due to the presence of dacoits in the surrounding rugged mountains and deciduous forests. Temples of Bateshwar, poetic stanzas of sandstone, were constructed between 8th to 10th century. The backdrop of grey hills and green forests adds a touch of surreality to the temple complex. The temples, dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu, have intricate carvings and elaborate shikharas. The carvings depict stories from Hindu mythology. Different temples are under different conditions, yet most of them have withstood the trials of time. It makes you wonder what this place would have looked like during its heyday.
Best time to visit Bateshwar
Best time to visit Bateshwar Temple is after monsoon from September to March when the temperature ranges from 10 to 30 Celsius.
How to reach Bateshwar
By air: Rajmata Vijaya Raje Scindia Air Terminal in Gwalior (30km) is the nearest airport. There is one direct flight from Delhi to Gwalior every day.
By train: Nurabad (14km) is the nearest railway station from Bateshwar Temple. But, it is hard to find transportation to take you to the temple from the station. It is better to head to Gwalior Railway Station (35km) and hire a private taxi to the temple.
By road: Bateshwar Temple is 353km (6 hours) from Delhi on the Taj Express Highway. It makes for an ideal weekend road trip from Kanpur (260km), Jaipur (324km) and Lucknow (332km) as well.
Where to stay near Bateshwar
Gwalior, 35km away, is the best place to stay. Hotel Anand Palace (₹800 double), Dera Heritage Haveli (₹2,700 double). For more options, check here.
Brightly painted houses, cobblestone streets, multistorey temples, an unconquered fortress and a tranquil river give Orchha a charm that is hard to escape. At the Chaturbhuj Temple, hear the unbelievable story about how the Queen of Orchha brought Lord Ram to Orchha; walk through the architectural marvel that is the Orchha Fort which was never conquered despite repeated attempts by the Mughals; cross the bridge and admire the multistorey Chhatris on the banks of Betway and pay homage to Goddess Laxmi at the marvellously built Laxminarayan Temple.
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