Exploring the land of Man Eater Tigers.

Man Eater cats are no exception and are present everywhere and near to what being as a tourist we could imagine. We all may have passed them within a 100 meter of range on our trips to Himalayas.

You may not agree with me but if you had read the books of Jim Corbet hunting tigers and leopards you may think of even a shorter range.

And those who go to hills quite often would have been stalked by either a Tiger or Leopard seldom.

Tiger and Leopard attacks are rare on tourists than on locals inhabitants as cats have more sense than one could imagine. (Their is a saying : You could make a Ch*** / fool out of Dog but never a Cat.) They take their time and observation for even killing the weakest prey like humans(though humans are no natural preys of Tigers/Leopards).

9/10 times Man Eaters are a result of physical injuries mostly inflicted by Humans, majorly by ill gun shots.

1/10 time they are suffering physical deficiencies of old age.

All these reasons making them loose their capability to hunt on their natural preys.

There are more reasons but not worth to mention here as for the that you need to read the books of Jim Corbet and after reading The Man Eating Leopard of Rudraprayag, one scary night mare of Man eaters is worth to have. This deadly Leopard who operated like a ghost (which locals believe was one) was mentioned in the news of Africa, Canada, America, UK and more countries some 100 years back. Operated for 6 years, killed 4 hunters who were there to kill it, made Jim Corbett run for his life many times and killed 100+ people on paper and off paper Jim Corbet himself believed the numbers would have been very different.

80% of Tigers and Leopards daily watch the weak humans carrying out their jobs in jungles and quite perfectly know our hide outs which we call homes, our physical capabilities and everything which they need to know to make a safe hunt, still they don't attack humans.

BECAUSE WE AIN'T THEIR NATURAL PREY.

Bears are known to not eat on the flesh of human victims they came being attracted to the smell while wandering in woods, very rarely if they do they are shot but the hunters sitting on the machan (in wait of Man Eater to return which the man eaters almost never do), because once getting the Taste of humans flesh their is very high chance of bear becoming a man eater.

Edward James Corbett books have such an effect that people have a sense of terror strike when they walk in night with bushes around, that a big cat may be lurking and that in a country where no Big Cats exists.

Teenagers who read it have night mares for quite sometime.

So on this very pleasant day we were out there to explore one of the British made church St. Michael's Church 1935-36 on the top of a hill far off in the jungle infested by Big Cats.

This was some Nearly 50 kms or less from where the Biggest Bengal Tiger was hunted - THE BACHELOR OF PAWALGARH by Jim Corbett. His skin was the most sought after Trophy in England which no hunter could secure from the past 10 years which later Jim Corbett secured in 4 days of following his wounded hunt. After feeling bad for hunting this magnificent creature which measured 10 feet 7 inches over curves for no ill things he had done against humas, Jim Corbett left Hunting Tigers for Trophies.

BACHELOR OF PAWAGARH

THE BIGGEST BENGAL TIGER EVER KNOWN

BUT NOW I DOUBT IT AFTER LOOKING AT THE PICTURE OF ANOTHER TIGER KNOWN AS "HAZARIBAGHS OWN BACHELOR" on the internet*.

Comparison of the head of this Tiger to the head of the people sitting is itself very scary to imagine how easily could he carry (not drag) a full size buffalo.

So on the outskirts of the Kingdom of The Bachelor of Pawalgarh today after 100 years of his undiputed rule we were on foot after parking our bike on the road side at Basani, the road carries to the church but as it had rained that night so the locals said that JCB is in full work and you have to take the trek and we were more than eager to take the trek.

Till then we weren't aware of the fact that Man Eater Tiger is operating at large and some 10 days back he had made his last human kill, making it the perfect time to secure another human kill for the Tiger.

Parking our Bike we took the trek and within 30 meters it when into a ravine with water crossing.

A bridge broken on pillars and the feel that now we have now stepped in the proper woods.

To my left if the fallen bridge which would have been made for the rainy season. Though in this condition it still serves half its purpose.

My college friend who was not known to the jungle dangers was only concerned about the steep climbs which we took further.

After this lengthy climb of 300 meters for the 2 people of plains, it appeared as we hoped that we have reached the foot steps of the church.

But to our sorrow it was a tiny village with max 10 families scattered over large area and we took an odd trek to avoid the village as we knew it was not here where we would find the church and this was definitely a trek taken only by cattle and no humans and further going deep it was evident, and if I had known till then about Man Eaters operating in the area I surely would have not taken it, as it was very dense and the langurs were giving their calls but only by looking at us.

I exchanged them a similar call in funny way not so funny to me when I think of it now.

I was vlogging that day so photos were of no much interest to me. As you can see that the trek stretched only some 6 inches wide and out of the many foot prints this was the one which we cannot figure out whom it belonged to.

I wanted to take any possible exit out of this scary dense cattle path as soon as possible but since we hoped to see the church at the very exit of this path believing that no one would be visiting it since ages and hills being a Hindu centered place, the trek as no one was visiting the church was is this bad condition where wild animals were taking it as a path to move around.

Thankfully the path ended to the rear of a wooden hut and we were at South end of the village though residents being small in number were spread out big, being farming the only business of locals.

Since its a trek to this village no motor vehicles are expected in this village, which later was confirmed to me by an aunty who resided in the center on the village whom I asked for water and chit-chatted while returning after our 5 hours of trek, to know about her native place and man eaters and she offering me mangoes to eat and talking about the connection of Christianity and Islam, all this time my friend standing thirst at the very gate of her house with stretched some 20 meters of walk along a path surrounded by her farms. Since we didn't interacted with her family while we were going to the trek for the evident reason that he whole family of 4-5 people where stalking us all standing as if we were intruders of their village, as I said which was only our wrong assumption proved later. They were just curious for us and worried for the fact that man eaters were operating.

Here on her gate while going for the church I also asked an old flimsy man about the direction of the Church and he then took 20 seconds to confirm me the same by not being quite but saying what all he could in the 20 seconds and was willing to talk to no end, further the aunty said in a loud voice to make it clear that we should ignore him and go our way as he was out of his mind by aunty doing those round circles around her head with Index finder to tell that he was out of his mind.

Though a bit out of mind we meet this man again while returning and it was a very interesting encounter with him but boring to my friend as he told me about the Tigers he had seem and one Pug prints which he further says that the owner of it would be as a big as a horse. More interesting talk which I will tell below in the sequence.

So while we reached the wooden hut at the end of the scary path we climbed down the slope and made out way out to the open ground with trees and dry leaves all spread over, me being conscious of not stepping over any snake or poisonous insect, cautiously we too our way out of this place which had undulations hidden beneath leaves. Getting on one visible path we still had our last hope that the church lie in the same direction.

Within a minute we meet two people, one was a 2 star police officer and other one was a civilian both going for their jobs together from their village down below the same trek.

Asked about the church they said that we have followed in the wrong direction after reaching the village and now the path to it lie in the opposite North side of the village and showed us the top of the hill where the church was, we expected it to be 1.5 kms which was very bad calculation proved later.

I being curious about the place asked them about their spotting big cats and they in a serious tone told us to take a look around while we go up and that 8 people have been killed by Big cats here in the past 6 months.

Further confirmed us that villagers often spot them and started confirming with each other on which day did they encountered a leopard, on their way down the same trek last week.

This was the first time we came to know that the place we were taking easy all this time was a home to a man eater. Aamir still had the spirit, though many would be afraid to go further, he had no wrinkle of any kind.

They also informed that leopards are like cats in hills and there is no count on them.

We followed the properly cemented path about 5 feet wide paved by government to the other end of the village, since we were now hungry and it was around 12 noon and exhausted we found nearly hundred mangoes spread lying along the elevated ending path , apparently washed away in the last night rain.

One of which appeared in a perfect condition and picking it up and getting a healthy smell I pealed it off and again smelling took a small bite and to my surprise it was quite sweet and had a distinctive natural taste.

Upon inspecting close we found that there were many mangoes in perfect condition.

We bagged all we could in small shoulder bag which Amir was carrying and started eating on the go.

This all was being watched from far off by the same aunty who after our trek back offered us the mangoes and pointed out why do we need to pick it up when here we have many in home and instead should have asked her before to get mangoes if we were hungry.

So further upon inquiring an old man who was sitting on the door of his room which further had a small garden to it, about the village and chit chatting and knowing that his daughter is also married to the out skirts of Moradabad he offered us to have a seat with and eat his fresh mangoes of his tree as we were eating those picked up mangoes while talking.

We were running out of time and were more curious to reach the Church so we declined his offered in a sweat way and exchanged ADAB.

This was here we first got to know that the church was visited by the locals but seldom and it is very beautifully crafted he said.

While leaving he also asked us to have a close look around and stay alert.

We left and the trek further was all lonely and scary, I asked Aamir to have a close look around and talk with a loud tone with each other so the animals knew we weren't afraid ( after reading Jim Corbett books, I now knew that it was a mistake because Man Eaters are in fact attracted to it because they know our limits quite perfectly and in fact a non man eater would know about our movement with our natural foot notes and move out by itself if felt unsecure.

The trek here was long than we expected it to be.

It was scary quite a bit but not much since we both were not afraid and a frightened partner is the worst thing to have in such trips.

It been 30 mins and we were all in sweat, all our clothes wet and running out of breath. Sweat dropping from our face.

We took a stop now, Amir being very thirsty and emptied half of the water bottle after gaining his breathe. I asked him to be slow as we should not run out of water.

He offered me water and after I told him I was not thirst he questioned in surprise, How can you be not, as from the past 1 hour we are trekking and are bathing in sweat now.

To which I said : I take 2.5 liters of water in two breaks in the morning (full of what my stomach can fill), it helps in many ways and one such was visible that day.

While sitting I told him that we should sit in cross, facing our backs to each other and get a 360 view all together.

It was the need of the hour and doing miss adventure is different than Adventure.

Though every man wants a Miss added with a human name at some point in life but here it would have spoilt our lives if Miss was added with adventure.

Further on we carried and carried up the trek. Hoping that it was just some 50 meters away. Zig zagging along the beautiful stone paved path which could hold no animal tracks.

There was no end to it other than false hope at every long turn. If we knew it would turn this lengthy and tiring we surely would have skipped it.

Nearly an hour trek from the last man we meet in the village and after many short stops we came to the small 5 feet tower, a portion of Church to confirm the starting of its boundaries.

We were glad that we made it but for more 30 mins of trekking, I taking my shirt off which was all in sweat and of which I could bear no more, climbed and climbed and Amir losing out the upper buttons of his shirt to let the body heat escape.

No trace of humans in the past 2 hours and than we came across a small village partly abandoned and no humas present but cattle gazing around made us know it was inhabited by few and then we saw a human coming on a cement paved road form a small distance, while we stood along the trekof the village now entering fields and further joining the paved road.

If you could zoom further, could see his legs but blurred.

We carried two thick sticks along the trek and it was evident he was a bit suspicious on us or better to be said afraid.

He approached us slow and alert as if we were there to beat and loot him.

Though we acted as calm as possible but within a second of him coming in a feasible distance to strike, I Strike his head with full force because no one was around who could have watched us doing this deadly act to an afraid man.

With this sudden strike of questions and our happy gesture he was more than glad that we were at his small village and wanted to visit the Church. ( I will tell you why he was happy because it will spoil the thrill which we had for sometime).

Again with a small chit chat and upon inquiring about the presence of Tiger on this very hill top, he told us about his Cows being killed by Tiger.

One very recently killed.

Further he verbally guided us the way to Church and asked to not ask any villagers about the Church, which we may come across on our way to Church, though only a single women with two children did and we sticked with his rule (thinking it was a Hindu Village and they didn't liked the Church may be for some atrocities carried out by the Britishers on their forefathers.

To out surprise it was still a 500 meter walk but worth the walk around a secure hill top village.

"No place is secure in a man eaters territory other than bein very conscious and luck on side." This was only brough to my light by reading Jim Corbet, after a month of this trip.

Finally reached the Church and as we were very exhausted and running out of breath, we for almost half and hour lied straight as if on bed at the very gate of Church. The same place where the Church would have been inaugurated some 85 years back by Britishers and newly convert locals of the small villages around.

This place looked secure and after we caught our breath stood up and I tried to open the door as it was open from outside.

With much pressure and vain tries confirmed was the thing that it was locked from inside.

To the very left I could see that there were many flower pots confirming that a happy family lived here as caretakers.

Making a slow approach to the side gate we went pass it and came round the whole church. We didn't knew how would the care takers react to us.

Since it was all peace and not even a bird flocking its wing around we assumed that we would disturb them.

For almost half and hour we sat around the corner of the grass land of Church and were discussing religion very deeply.

For the time we were talking we could hear that utensils being washed in the Kitchen which appeared to be at our back as we sitting on exterior wall of church which was at level to the park ground and Church but was at a height of 10 feets to the land around and where we were sitting had a path which followed zig zagging (as appeared) to the base of the hill or half way to someplace.

After the talk we gathered courage to knock the doors and shout out loud to the people who were in there and no reply at all.

Assuming that they were ignoring us we went on to monitor things very closely and suspiciously.

I forget to tell that the back yard of the Church had utensils big enough to feed 50 peoples and some 25 kg onions lying and a Shirt for XL size completely dried but was clear that it was hanged recently.

This all confused us more and more to a level that it appeared to a be haunted place or a place of experiment on humans or a home to a serial killer.

Checking out the inside with both hands covering the side of face while sticking our face to the windows, increased more horror as it appeared like the back room of any haunted church to be. Some empty.

A bathroom clearly visible.

A kitchen which could be guesses by a fridge and its size.

A vacant room which appeared to be a back entry into the Church as it was all vacant.

Rest windows we cannot see anything of.

So again after monitoring close around the Church it was confirmed that we mistook the noise of Steel Shed for Utensils being washed.

But now more and more of horror because we felt being watched.

After some minute Amir offered the prayers and deciding we will do it one by one I prayed while he looked after.

Every thing there appeared abnormal.

Why ? Because being normal why was there no one present?

While we were done for what all we could do, just to check out how the church looked from inside we left the Church and in hope that may be we will never visit this place again. And if we did it won't be both of us together, so no similar experience again.

So we set off and knew we had to trek down and it was quite easy.

We set off and while passing the same house of those 2 children and their mother, I called the lady of the house who was in their only one room house.

She came out and when we told her about out visit to the church and that we couldn't see it from inside, she described her utmost regret and told us that the Father was out this after toon and if they wanted to see, she still could call Fathers' servant who was in some 200 meters away house, visible from the place we were standing.

As we both were tired and had walked some 300 meters back, were not in a mood to spend an hour more as we had more places on our list to go that day, so said that we will visit soon and than will check it out.

She also confirmed that if we would have asked anyone out of the village than no one would have minded to get the church open and the village is mostly christian and their children and everyone visits it in the morning and evening.

The homes were so spread out that we couldn't come in contact with anyone or shout of loud to them from Church

We were confirmed that it was a fully active church.

We walked past the far spread homes of the villages and at point out of a sudden came 3 dogs barking at us from the backyard of a home joint to the hillside, I know how to handle street dogs and get them calmed and went deep down the lonely path as dogs followed us, and than we were meet with graves and graves of the local Christians and it was evident we had choose the wrong path. No worries for that we went back as the 3 dogs followed us and corrected our mistake.

The dogs than stopped on the very turn taking us down the dense jungle, as if they knew there limits and though they had no job as it appeared but still won't risk it for unknown people which they seemingly were now getting interested in.

It took us a mere 45 mins to come down that 4-5 kms trek.

At the base I called out to the old man who again offered us Mangoes and said a good bye.

He after a moment of us walking our way back shouted and offered us a lemon pant which he said would have very big lemons in season.

I would have loved to carry it as it would make this person more happy than the one who plants it but we were on a motor bike that day and said a good bye with a described reason of saying No.

We went past the Aunty and with being very thirsty approached back to her for get out bottle filled.

Rest all I have told you we Chit Chatted for 15 mins.

And she telling that there was no Corona here and no checking of any sort and no sort of fear, All village people would gather in her house as she had a big one and would chit chat in the peak time of corona.

We descended and while we were about to reach our motor bike just after crossing the water stream in the deep ravine I was saw that old who was a bit out of mind cutting feeder for his animals.

Upon approaching him he within an instant recognized us and handed us his stuff and both us had our hands fully occupied. With him having the sharp grass cutter in hand I alarmed my friend to stay on high alert as we know not what this man can bring in terror to us but sooner he after cutting his last part of feeder got his bag of feeder and more to himself and remaining stuff we carried for him to the motorbike which was parked on road meanwhile he telling us about the buffalos he had purchased and what milk they give.

After this I saw he was selling mangoes of the hill which were quite distinct than we have in plains, I knew that he was quite poor and was a bit out of mind because the pace where he was selling was only frequent by locals and a vehicle would pass only every 15 minutes of so. So there was no one to buy from him.

I while checking out his varied mangoes had words about Tiger.

His latest encounter happened 3 days back while collecting peacocks feathers up some 2 kms the same ravine he meet a Tiger growl while picking us a feather out of around 15 scattered feathers, while hearing the growl he stood his head high still bend and saw a Tiger sitting some 20 feets up the ravine, he got quite afraid and knew that the Tiger was not happy with his presence. With all the feather he had picked he calmy came down so as the Tiger would not find him as a threat , being a local and already having many encounters with the Tiger, he knew how to safely retreat.

While further we talked he told me about a paw he came across ("within a month before" - as what I remember) A Tiger pug mark.

He was so into telling this incident that he laid his hand on the other side of the road in the mud and made a big space and told how he put his hand in the pug mark to measure it and moving his hand up and down couldn't fit his anywhere as the Pug Mark was so big. He believed this Tiger was as big as a Horse.

Their is no denying to the fact that hillmen who wander into jungles could determine it.

Jim Corbett while following the Pug marks of Bachelor of Pawalgarh with two shikaris was mentioned that this tiger measured 10 feet 4 inches by one and other said it was 10 feet 6 inches over curves and the exact after the hunt was 10feet 7 inches. Jim Corbett was amazed by this knowledge of local men.

This HORSE size big tiger as he suggested by the size of Pug marks lived 4 kms from the village where we came from and he assured that he could take us there and show it where he believed this Tiger lived in a Ravine. Hathikund was the name of the nearest village he said the Horse Size Tiger lived and it had a pond deep enough to take a big elephant in it and so is named Hathikund.

Further this old men told that he could also show us the Tiger he some days back saw while collecting the feathers of peacock if we were to trek with him 2 kms up the ravine right now. YES ! RIGHT NOW ?

I would have dared it if we were all prepared and a group of at least 4 or if we have meet him early that morning and not that tired, seeing Amir who was resting on the bike some 15 feets from us and not interested in the talk because he knew giving a bit of spark to me would turn in a not so liked trek.

Tiger don't attack but it was the place of man eater.

I said no and inquired more of where to meet him if I come next.

He told me he would be here selling mangoes and nature herbs in the night time he works as a chowkidar as some girls hostel it was hard to believe but I believed him.

Further we went to 40 kms to out next destination Sattal and checked this beautiful Church out.

Stepping in this would have meant to step in the old times of Britishers or to Step in England.

It was restricted to visit this area without permission.

I mailed the Sattal ashram and they confirmed that it is all closed and if I wanted to visit they will open it up and let them know when ever I want to visit.

As it was almost sun set and next to our list was an almost dry lake which is visible form a high view point while descending to Saat Taal some 5 kms before.

It dries us in almost August because I have seen so.

To check a glimpse though it was almost sunset and we went ahead.

Asking from the last shop owner who was going away after closing.

Was it safe to go down there ?

He said no worries! The only thing you could come across is a Tiger.

Very carefully we went ahead and then after 1 500 meter of trek after sunset reached it.

This was among the last photo we had and the battery of Amir's phone went out. I use a an old broken xiomi phone so no chance of any photo more.

While coming back we saw a pug mark at the exact place we came from a single one as if the animals crossed the road into bushes.

Clicked a photo from my phone but as it was almost dark and no help could flash do to the blurred camera lense.

We in no time left for Nainital.

Offered Prayers at Jama Majid.

Left Nainital at 9:30 Pm.

Just 3 kms before chota haldwani there is an open strech beteween real jungles where in day time roasted corn is sold.

I put the bike in a low gear and told Amir that I will be driving his bike with the fullest rpm to make sound like a generator and he should no worry as I will do it to frighten the wild animals as it was nearly 10:30 PM and the change of rule of humans to wild animals have been made.

We reached home and slept well.

I do vlog and I have posted the trip video on YouTube.

More adventure videos posted on my channel.

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