"One can only prepare but you got to be ready for anything."
This was one of the sudden trip planned between 4 friends. We had different plan for trip and due to COVID lockdown, all our prepared plans were a bust. I dint plan to write this trip but wanted to give it a try, and i am writing it after over a month so I'll try to be as accurate as I can.
So, we all got to talking and checked out weather forecast and thought of going sach pass and all of us agreed. We had like 1 week before our day of the ride. All things were packed and luggages checked, made sure we dint miss anything. Oh! We were going to camp and i dint have the chair so i went out and bought one. Now everything done and next day was the ride.
As usual, i cannot sleep the night before the ride day. I got ready on time, went over to Kamal's place and we put saddle bags and tied all the stuff on bike. Our plan was to meet other 2 friends (Lalit and Binish) on the way, so we started our bikes and that was the beginning of my ride.
We meet other 2 riders, they were all set and it was a safe and good start. Since it was the first day, we tried to cover as many kms before we took the first break. We covered quiet a lot of kms before we took a break for breakfast. We stopped over a dhaba and had typical aloo-pyaaz parathas and tea (kinda become a tradition for me on a bike trip).
It was really hot June last week and we were dripping sweat inside our riding gears and helmet. I had my hydration bag to keep me hydrated while riding. We soon started to see hills and mountains, got our energy back in the hope of some cool winds or chill breeze.
It was such a relief to be able to ride after lockdown in the mountains. The feelings cannot be expressed in words. The cool winds, the green mountains and far away you can see those mountain top which are in whole another altitude and covered in snow. We just looked at each other and the happiness in all of our eyes said it all. This is where we wanted to be.
Our journey continues and we had to reach Satrundi before sunset to setup our tents. Luckily we did manage to reach on time and there were no issues. We were at Satrundi, Kamal found the best spot for camping. We started to unload luggages from bike and get tents setup. We needed some supplies like wood for bonfire and water for cooking. There was a small dhaba like shed just around 100m from our camping site so we also had the option to go there to eat.
We dint plan to leave Satrundi yet, so 2nd day was just relaxing and enjoying the nature. Whole day we were just hanging around and chilled in nature's lap. The day was hot even at that altitude. The sky was mostly clear in the afternoon so sun was really hard. We took a long walk nearby to get under the shadows of the mountain. When we got a bit hungry we had to go back. We went to that dhaba and bought cold drinks and some snacks to munch. We tried the dhaba but the food dint taste good so we headed back and made maggie and had some. Rested a bit and it was evening so we made coffee and tea and sat on the chair and enjoyed the sunset. We shared some stories about others trips and experiences.
Just when it was around late afternoon, we saw clouds coming towards us from the valley and soon it was over us. Everything went from sunny to dense fog and visibility was less than 50mtrs. We were enjoying and suddenly we all rushed into our bags to get our jackets out, and then we all worked towards getting the bonfire lit. Unfortunately, the woods we collected were no good for fire. We tried all possible ways. Lalit bought the gas stove and tried to catch fire through it, and failed. Used some papers we had, and failed. Tried burning twigs, and failed. One option left, Kamal's bike was a carburettor system so we could get some petrol out of it and then sprinkle it on the wood to burn it. We gave that a shot and ended up almost burning Lalit's slippers. 😆
Luckily, he wasn't hurt or anyone for that matter. We all started to wonder what else we can do to start the bonfire. We had lots of wood. Then Lalit identified a big log which seemed to be better than others. He had me cut it into smaller pieces with the axe i bought and then we had perfect bonfire. We were all relieved and got our chairs near the bonfire. While we were enjoying the rest of the evening, we had a very kind local people pass by our camping site.
They were carrying a big metal container filled with pure cow milk. They stopped at our camping site and offered us milk. We were really happy to get milk as were wanted to have tea/coffee. We got 2 cups full of milk and were wanted to pay them, but they dint accept the money. They said, 'we dont need money, please have tea or something'. This really touched our hearts. They were a small family, the uncle, aunty and their daughter. We were all surprised with the gesture. They then wished us well and went on their way.
Well, now we had pure milk. So its time for coffee. Let me tell you guys, its hard to get pure milk and then making coffee with it was just delicious. We thoroughly enjoyed the coffee till the last drop. It was the best drink we had in our entire journey. I do wish that family more luck and a great future.
Soon it was getting dark so we were getting cold. All warm clothes were out and we started covering ourselves and kept sitting near the bonfire. We then had some dinner and went off to bed. Tomorrow was the day.
We all woke up on time, got ready, started packing. Got our bags onto the bike and ready. Binish went to the dhaba to dispose the garbage. Now it was time to ride towards the Sach Pass. We were all fresh and had good rest. As we rode up and up, the temperature started to drop but sun was still hot with clear sky. Some water logging her and there, some water streams rolling down from ice melts.
Everywhere around, everything you could see was covered in snow. It was all white and the sun glare was reflecting off the snowy mountains. It was so blissful. Sach Pass is really beautiful. You could just sit and just watch around for hours and wouldn't be tiered. We kept on moving, riding through all of it. It was the top of it now. We could see the mandir and the board. We have reached. Me and Kamal were together and we could not see Lalit and Binish behind. We waited for few mins and there they came, we all were together again.
We wanted to have tea here. So we took helmets off and enjoyed the view. My wife had me promise to donate in the mandir box. Well, i had to and i did. We reached Sach Pass without anything bad happening. We do need all the angels and gods on our side for rest of our journey back home. We had to give bribe. 😝
Anyways, jokes aside, the view here was breathtaking. It was cold up here, had hot cup of tea in hands and such a view. Just WOW!!
We had to go cover lots of distance today so we wrapped up soon and left Sach Pass. Now we were going down towards killar. I think the name was given for a reason. The road that could be dangerous enough to kill you- killar. The downhill from Sach Pass was ok, just some slush and water streams. Later we were on such a bumpy stretch of road. It was the worst road to ride. Kilometres of kilometres, just stones and gravels. Not sure why did the govt dump stones on such a long stretch f road when its not gonna be possible to put tarmac on it the same day. It was very tiring day, the road had all of us with back pain and shoulder pain. Dont get me wrong, Its heavens for off-roading adventurists. Just that it not what you want for entire day.
Anyhow, me and Kamal were together but Lalit and Binish were left behind. We did took multiple stops hoping for them to reach us but we dint. Here none of our cell phones/towers worked. So no way to contact them. Me and Kamal even doubted if we had taken correct route and dint take any detour. He did ask any locals we saw and they guided us (cant rely on gmaps). It was around afternoon, me and Kamal decided not to take unnecessary rest and focus on reaching Udaipur before dark and find rooms. So we set our minds to it and hoped that all is well with Lalit and Binish. Though its never good to leave any rider behind but we all know each other and are all seasoned riders.
So we went on and on on the treacherous road. Our hands getting tiered or holding clutch and brakes and handle. Killar is living up to its name. It is definitely going to test your riding skills. After lots of patients and mindful riding, we were finally on the tarmac roads. Honestly, i never felt so good riding on tarmac, i never appreciated a tarmac road before. It was great satisfaction to our sore bums. Now it took couple of hours to reach Udaipur with bit of road and off-road but wasn't as bad as before. Few water crossing with good water level to fill our riding boots from over the top.
I kept trying Lalit on his cell as we were getting tower on and off. It ringed but he dint answer as his helmet intercom was disconnected from phone. Once we reached Udaipur, we searched for place to stay and dint waste any time. It was i think 1600 for 2 rooms. So we settled and changed. Went out to eat as we were very hungry, dint find anything on route to eat. We found a fast food center. We had thukpa, and i dont know if it was the ambience or the Buddhist music or coz we were very tiered, we enjoyed sitting in that restaurant. The couple who manages the place were very well mannered, a lot better than me. They were so humble and polite and sweet. I really enjoyed it. I will recommend this restaurant to everyone. I will post the pic.
The thukpa filled our stomach good. We went out for walk, kept trying to call Lalit and no luck. After a while they called back and they were all safe and good but still far away. We informed them about rooms being booked and they were on the way. Me and Kamal enjoyed our night walks on the street of Udaipur. After couple of hours, Lalit and Binish reached. It was a long tiring day for everyone. We all got back to the rooms, freshened up, and had dinner. Need to rest for the next day.
Today our plan is to go towards Tirthan valley. We got up on time, had breakfast in the same restaurant mentioned before and then we continued the ride. The roads were no longer as bad as it was before Udaipur. There were still lots of off-road and BRO were working on tarmac roads so we did find few good patch of road along the way. Finally, we did reach Jibhi, and searched for cheap home-stays but mostly they were full. Later we found a home-stay (Om-Shanti Home-Stay) which had open ground and we asked the owner if we can pitch our tent there and spend the night. They did charge a small amount since we needed to use bathrooms and other facilities so we dint mind. So we settled here for tonight and decided to spend another day here and enjoy the locale. We had bonfire, ordered food here (wasn't that great, but was ok since we were hungry). We talked for few hours, shared some riding stories and experience. We meet few other tourists who were visiting Jibhi/Tirthan valley by car/bike. Later we decided to visit the Tirthan river and other spots tomorrow and that was all for the day.
Today, we woke up on time, had a good sleep. After everyone had freshened up and ready we headed towards Jibhi waterfall and and took out stove and maggie and soup. Lalit, made soup and we had that on the river banks and siting there was really a good calming experience. We dint realize it was over an hour we were all just sitting there listening to birds chirping and the sound of river flowing. After a while, Lalit and Binish wanted to bath in the river. There were others in the home-stay who were also coming to take a bath in the river. After enjoying in the river, we had some lunch, and thought we should get going to visit the Tirthan river. We kept our tents and luggage here and rode with only 2 bikes and 2 of us were riding as pillion. Kamal was my pillion, Binish was Lalit's. We reached the spot where river was close and had space to park the bikes. Went down to the river and the view was really awesome! The river was so clean, we all drank directly from the river. The taste of glacier water is definitely better than our R.O. water. You generally do not get to drink clean glacier water (without paying). Now, of course, the water looked clean, no one is sure if there was anything microscopic, but none of us felt sick so it was cleaner than it sounds. There were other people who also came to visit the same spot by car. They were also fishing in the same river, and i think they caught some too.
We stayed for few hours, closed eyes and just lied down and relaxed a bit. It was evening and going to be dark soon so we got up and headed back to our camps. We had bonfire and dinner just like the night before and went to bed bit early since we had to ride back tomorrow.
We all got up early, packed all our stuff, mounted the bags on bike. Headed towards Shimla for stay before we head back to Delhi. To be honest, there is nothing to write much about the return journey. We stayed in Shimla in a guest-house for the night and back to Delhi the next day.
The entire journey from Satrundi to Saach Paas, to Jibhi to Tirthan valley, and now to Shimla was simply great! You really cannot express the feeling in words. The hardship of the dangerous roads of Killar along with the breathtaking views all along the way cannot be expressed. You got to go and experience first hand. Saying that, always prepare for the worst, be positive and go out there and explore the world.
The experience is in the journey, not just the destination. Cheers!