Namibia- "The land god created in anger!" 10 days epic roadtrip

A 10 day, 2500 kms road trip across Namibia. Our Country # 24.

Just concluded our 10 days trip to “The Land God created in anger”, Namibia.

This country is only for the adventurous few. Its harsh, dry, lonely and a vast land of nothingness. Infact, of all the countries visited, we would rate Namibia on top for the beauty and ruggedness it offers.

Some facts before trip report:

• Namibia is not your regular tourist country, rather it is a traveller’s paradise. There are no sights or landmarks or tourist spots like most of the countries, but whatever there is, it’s all natural. No human touch. You will feel like walking in a different planet altogether. The tagline “Liberating, Soulful, Rugged and Natural” fits perfectly. If Iceland is called the “Planet of the Gods”, Namibia should be called “Planet of the Devil”.

• Namibia is hot, even in winters. African sun is anyways very harsh but since Tropic of Capricorn passes through this country, it gets more exposure to the sun.

• This country can be best explored through a self-driven car, 4x4 specifically. Although 4x4 is not mandatory, but it is highly preferred as most roads are gravel roads with sands in patches, so a 4x4 gives more traction and control and less prone to breakdown. Do not drive if you are not confident to drive on dirt roads and not very comfortable in driving long distances in isolation.

• Namibia has the least density of people after Greenland and Mongolia, just 3 people per sq km. The total population of Namibia is just 2.5 mn. Just for reference, Delhi’s population is 4mn. So be ready to drive long distance without seeing another car or living soul on the road. If you always want people around and fear nothingness, Namibia is the not the place for you.

• It’s a paradise for campers and rock climbers. There are dedicated camping sites in the most beautiful natural environment with basic facilities. Infact most people drive 4x4 campers with sleeping tents and all other amenities.

• Namibia is home to the oldest desert in the world, roughly 50-80 mn years old, Namib desert and contains some of the world’s driest regions. You will find children standing on the roads with water bottles in hand with nothing but expectation of a bottle of water. Even tap water is drinkable in Namibia, so always carry some water bottles with tap water to help them.

• Namibia is expensive to travel to due to various reasons. Flights from India are expensive, car rentals are expensive as compared to South East Asia or Europe, there is no public transport, no street food etc. Ther are no hostels or budgeted stays in the wilderness. Just lodges or camps, that too are basic but expensive.

• English is widely spoken and understood. Everyone communicates in English.

• Namibia is a high meat consuming nation. So keep your veg options with you. However, lodges can prepare veg options such as salad, bread, cheese, etc. but don’t expect much.

• There’s so much to write but will try to keep it short and to the point. Its such a captivating country that I feel something changed in me by my time over there – like I left a small part of my heart in that beautiful brutal place.

I. Visa: Got 3 months single entry Namibia visa in 2 days from Namibian high commission, Delhi. Super quick with least docs, one of the most humble and helpful embassy staff ever encountered. Submitted docs on 17th oct and got the passport with visa on 19th. You can also request for passport on same day. They will certainly try to accomodate if they can. All docs are to be submitted in duplicate.

Documents submitted-

1. Application form downloaded from HC website

2. Booked confirmed ticket. Even pay later ticket works

3. Pay at hotel bookings for accomodation from booking.

4. Bank statement for last 3 months, jst simple internet download. They just kept 3 pages returned all other and balance doesnt matter much. A balance of 1 lac also would suffice.

5. Basic itinerary and cover letter.

6. 2 photos

7. 3000 inr in cash.

Immigration was smooth both in India and Windhoek, no questions asked. Just one by the Indian side, “bhai cheetah le aana Namibia se, jo pehle lae the vo mar gye”. Immigration in Namibia took around 30-45 mins as 3 flights had landed at the same time and they don’t have any separate que for seniors, business class etc. Just foreign passport holders and locals. Refer attached link for visa process.

II. Flights: Took Ethiopian Airways to Windhoek. Deliberately chose a connection of 18 hrs as wanted to explore Addis on the way. Airlines provided free hotel with meals and transfers. The hotel voucher was provided in Delhi itself and just had to proceed to immigration upon landing where they just scanned the passport. No entry stamp was put. Transfer was smooth, and the hotel exceeded our expectations. It a 5* hotel owned by Ethiopian airlines and the staff is good. Food was decent with some veg options. The best hotel that have been provided by any airline. Flight was on time and decent veg meal was provided. Do book your veg option in advance.

The city is walkable but full of beggars. Once you get out of the hotel, you will find beggars on every turn asking for money, food, water anything. They don’t pester much but can be annoying. Went to the nearest church, walked on the streets and came back. Wont recommend taking this layover if you have a shorter option available.

III. Currency: For ease of calculation, 1N$=INR5. Cards are accepted everywhere, even at small local shops. Although I took 300 USD worth of local currency, but it was never needed. You can swipe your card everywhere, even at spots where there is fee applicable to visit.

IV. Windhoek Airport is 40 kms away from the city with no public transport available. So the only option is taxi or self-drive car. Our rental company provided free pick up from the airport to their office in the town.

V. Car Rental: One of the most important decisions to make is to choose the rental company. This car will be your saviour in the barren lands and far off places, so choose a provided with great reviews and reliable feedback. We chose Melbic Car Rentals. They had some great reviews and we are not disappointed. Although it was a bit expensive than its peers, but the car condition was top notch. We booked a Toyota 4x4 Hilux with extensive coverage and Zero excess payable. The car was just 37k kms done and in an excellent condition. They provide various accessories with the car such as 2 spare tyres, inflator, battery connectors, pulling wrenches, sand remover. In addition, we opted for a refrigerator which was much needed in the harsh sun of Namibia as we used to be on the road for 5-6 hrs, some days even more. They even had some additional equipment which can be rented at additional cost. Do check their website once for additional details. Paid around 18k N$ for 9 days. These cars have double fuel tank, 80+60 litres so you never run out of fuel in far off places.

VI. Mobile Sim: Get a mobile sim at the airport itself. Everything requires lot of paperwork in Namibia, so getting a sim might take some time, but its better to get it at the airport itself as the shops in malls in the city closed around 5 pm, so you might have to wait till next day for the same. Airtel international roaming doesn’t work there and standard charges are levied.

VII. Stock up on groceries and fuel up in Windhoek as you never know when you will find another store petrol pump or town. There are various supermarkets in the city. Always remember to fuel up at every petrol pump you see. Sometimes the nearest petrol pump might be as far as 300 kms away and you would not want to get stuck in the wilderness without anyone.

VIII. Deatiled Itinerary:

Windhoek (1 night) – Sossusvlei (2N) – Swakopmund / Walvis Bay (2N), Spitzkoppe (2N) and Damaraland (2N) before returning back to Windhoek for another night.

• Windhoek is a very beautiful town. Looks exactly like a European town with clean streets, beautiful churches, parks, cafes, malls etc. You don’t need to stay more in Windhoek other than arriving and departing. Stayed at Hotel Avani for INR7k per night.

• Sossusvlei is home to the largest dunes in Namibia and Deadvlei. You can google for some info about these places. The last 5 km patch to Deadvlei is very sandy and should be done via shuttle which are easily available from the parking lot. The trees there are some 900 yrs old and are so dry that they are not even able to decompose. Stayed at self catering Desert camps @ INR 12k per night.

• Swakopmund is a coastal city famous for the Sandwich Harbour, where the dunes meet the Atlantic ocean. There are tours available from the town and takes around 100 Euros per person including pick up, light meals and drop off for the half day tour. Rented an Airbnb in Walvis bay facing the Flamingos @ INR5k per night.

• Spitzkoppe is known as the Dinosaur World due to its dramatic formations which have been formed due to volcanic eruptions. One can easily spend a day driving around the park in an altogether different environment. Stayed at Omurenga Lodge @ INR 26k per night

• Damaraland is also similar to Spitzkoppe with unique formations such as Finger of God and other unique landscapes. Stayed at Vingerklip Lodge @ 13k per night.

Lastly, driving on the gravel roads of Namibia is an experience for lifetime.

Happy Travelling!!