Motorcycle Rambler

Gurudongmar Lake, a new challenge-

It's a frosty morning, and you've driven for 5 hours straight in thick mist and extremely low oxygen, on one of the worst motorable roads ever seen. You've woken up late cuz it's just what you do and everybody's had a headstart; there's not a soul in sight for hours, but the roads and the snow capped peaks are all yours; at least there's that. It's a beautiful day and the sun beats down, you've got some tunes on and you're driving. It's like runnin' down a dream, workin' on a mystery and goin' wherever the road leads. The last three days, the rain was unstoppable. It's always cold, and no sunshine. So I rolled on, the sky grew dark, I put the pedal down to make some time. There's something good waiting down this road, so I'm pickin' up whatever's mine.

Welcome to 17000 feet (5183 metres) at what is considered one of the holiest lakes in all of Buddhism, and the highest altitude lake in India. You marvel in the pristine beauty and notice the quaint Tibetan ceremony going on at the lake. You meet the monks, they bless you. You take a dip in the  turquoise blue water and it feels like an icy maiden's touch. As you rise, you finally notice the peaks of Mt. Kanchenjunga and Mt. Siniochlu so close it's almost an illusion. You've been chasing the peak now for 2500 km across Bhutan, Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Gangtok you've only had glimpses of its majestic aura. As you start the climb back to your bike, you realise you've spent an hour in a place you're supposed to spend 15 min in.

You start the ride back on the open roads and marvel at the icy desert around you amidst the army bunkers, massive tanks and bofors guns. You wonder how they got there. You think about the Mysore masala dosa you ate at the world's highest dosa point a few hours ago and how it suddenly doesn't agree with your tummy. You're suddenly woozy and feel nauseated due to the Altitude mountain sickness, and she's a total bitch. Just like your ex. Your phone shuts off from all the 4k videos, and your DSLR'S SD card misbehaves like a 5 year old who's been denied a treat. You feel delirious and your chances of safe return to the check post before 12 pm seem bleak at best, before the high speed icy winds buffet you en route. Your petrol tank is almost empty and you lost 7 litres of precious liquid gold reserve en route. You hope the prayer flags on your bike do as advertised, because nothing's going right. Then you have an altercation with a bunch of Sikkimese drivers who almost pushed your bike off the edge of a cliff. You're pissed off, cold and hangry, but your parents and friends are thousands of miles away. Whatcha gonna do? You think of the sizzling momos, steaming thupka and tongba waiting for you and you ramble on! Point in case that, when you live to eat, it all works out just fine.

This is an excerpt from my solo motorcycle expedition across Bhutan, Sikkim and West Bengal spread over 25 days and covering 4000 kms. That's all folks!