Kashmir is explained by this Farsi Couplet: "Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast, Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast." English Translation If there is a paradise on earth, It is this. I will not go and write about Kashmir Geography and history as everything is available on Google but will take a moment to write about the connection of Kashmir and it's description in our oldest Texts like Mahabharat.
Under Hindu scriptures Kashmir is linked to Sanskrit word “Kasmira” which means to dry up water, which relates to Kashmir once having been under water. Although their are various Folklores available and books depicting that Kashmir derives the name from the name of the Vedic sage Kashyapa who is believed to have settled people in this land. Accordingly, Kashmir would be derived from either kashyapa-mir (Kashyapa's Lake) or kashyapa-meru (Kashyapa's Mountain) but their is no proper text available to second the Sage Kashyap story.
But one thing is certain that Kashmir holds a great history dated back to 5000 years and the reason why Kashmir is so special is because of what it has given India and hence the world! Kashmir was a home to best minds in the world. It was called – The World of Knowledge. Ancient Greeks fondly called Kashmir as – The cradle of Civilization! It is said that like how we go to various places for higher education, people from various walks of lives used to come to Kashmir for attainment of higher realizations, spiritual aspirations, and various kind of researches.
Day1: Delhi to Srinagar
We planned with help of a travel agency. All the Hotels/cab/Houseboat and sight seeing was already pre planned. Our first day Plan was to acclimatize in Srinagar and do local sight seeing such as Shankaracharya Mandir, Mughal garden, chashmashah and Peer mahal. Our First 3 days stay was at the hotel Karma Gold Situated at Rajbagh which was approx 10km from Airport. Without wasting much time we headed straight to Shankaracharya Temple. One of the oldest shrines in Kashmir and it believed to be the place where Adi Shankaracharya attained Enlightment. Situated at 1000 feet and 240 steps to climb but the entire view of Srinagar from top is mesmerizing. We then visited Pari Mahal and Chasemashahi Garden. Due to time constraint we skipped the Mughal garden and went to the Market near Ghanta ghar also famously known as Lal Chowk and back to hotel for Dinner.
Day 2: Srinagar to Sonmarg
Next day our plan was to visit Sonmarg. Sonmarg is also known as Meadows of Gold. Sonmarg is the gateway to ladakh. One can cover places like Zozila pass or Baltal valley and lakes like Kishensar/vishenar/Gangabal. Trek to Thajiwas glaciers, sledge at Glacier is also provided by locals. We left Hotel at 9 am and it took 2 hrs to reach there and by the time we entered sonmarg, entire scenery changed. We felt the temp. dropping by with snow covered mountains and sindh river flowing. Driver bhaiya told us that zero point was closed due to slippery road and recent accidents, so we went to another place planned i.e Thajiwas glacier.
Once you are there, locals surround you to take their Pony/Horse. They show you fixed rates written for 3-4 points. We were not aware of the negotiation level so we did ok for 2200 per horse. They also give snow shoes and jacket on rental which can also be avoided. It took almost 30-45 mins to the top point where it was surrounded by tourists/maggi point selling Kahwa/chai and coffee and locals trying to take you for sledging. It was chilling out there so we sat for some time having chai and maggi, and then said ok for sledge. Let me tell you that experience was pathetic. One person will try to pull the sledge to the top and will definitely require a helper too. We did spent 1000rs for sledge and 150rs for helper.
we were the last ones to climb down before dark and then went back to our hotel in srinagar.
Day3: Srinagar to Gulmarg
One of the main attraction and must go place is Gulmarg in Kashmir. Gulmarg Gondola is famously the longest and highest gondola ride in Asia, and the second longest and highest in the world.There are two phases to the gondola ride. The first phase takes visitors from the town to Kungdoor station, halfway up the mountain. Phase two completes the journey from Kungdoor to near Apharwat peak. The two-stage ropeway has a height of 4,200m (13,780ft).
We Pre booked the ride 15 days before the trip. Although it is not necessary to book 15 days in advance but online booking is important since there is no booking available or you end up paying extra at the spot. We reached there by 11.30 am and Adil left us at main road, from there it is a walk of approx ....we took cab for 50rs per person as we do not want to stand in long Queue. First Phase has proper restaurant and 2nd phase has small food joints and also a small cafe. Good thing is that they have a doctor available and oxygen cylinder just in case.
Day 4: Pahalgam
4th and 5th day was planned in Pahalgam and night stay on 4th. We checked out just after breakfast as the journey was of 2 hrs(approx 90 km). One of the valley named Baisaran is also called as mini switzerland of India. The breathtaking sceneries, Journey of Aru valley and Betaab valley and Chandanwari which is the starting point of Amarnath yatra is a must go places.
On our journey we stopped at Apple farms on road side and one of them was selling fresh juice straight out of Fresh farm apples. They were the Golden apples and they were just amazingly good. We spent some time clicking pics and drinking and the moved straight to Pahalgam. Once we reach there our main objective was to cover the valleys as much as possible. Like Sonmarg we had to negotiate hard on ponnies for the Baisaran and Dabyan valley. There are 6 points mentioned at their chart but actually it is only 3 which they cover. The ride of the horses are tricky than Sonmarg and takes time. I would suggest personally for Old and babies to not go for it. Baisaran i would say is okeyish as big ground surrounded by Snow capped mountains. Fun we did was to try Kashmiri Outfits and taking a printout for memories. One thing is that while spending 1hr or so there but still thinking about going back same route by horses as it takes more effort in return. Especially ladies were more scared and we did see people and even small kid falling from the horse.
We came back late just before the sunset and moved to the hotel situated at rafting point Movera. Place was where most of the hotels are and is very far away from main Pahalgam Market. Next day our journey was to cover Aru Valley/Betaab valleya and Chandanwari popularly said as ABC. These are the places where the local union taxi would go rather than the one we were travelling. Their rates are fixed as per the destination and the car make. We booked Innova for 3 Location and the time also they give as approx 1 hr at each location. We covered Aru valley, although the village is starting point of many treks like Tarsar Marsar Trek and Kolahoi Glacier Trek. I would be suggesting anyone planning to go kashmir to spent more time in Pahalgam as each valley is in itself worth exploring and give time. We continued straight to Betaab valley.
It's called Hajan or Hagen Valley but popularly known as Betaab because of the Sunny deol movie Betaab shooting.Betaab Valley lies between the two Himalayan Ranges – Pir Panjal and Zanskar. Just after entering to the valley and the picturesque places will absorb you. Lidder river flowing along side beautiful meadows and so much vast area that it can be visited as a picnic spot with family for soaking sun and getting mesmerized with the beauty of it. Place was super clean and can do various other activity like river crossing and trek. We were only having limited time so we made most of it and clicked as many pictures as we can. It is a must visit valley and like i said earlier more time is required while visiting these places. Our last destination was Chandanwari.
Chandanwari valley is the end point of the road journey and from there pilgrims have to trek 32 kilometers to reach the Amarnath cave.Chandanwari is famous for Chandanwari glacier located near the market. There is also shesnaag lake trek halfway to Amarnath Shrine. The place was stunning, and sparing a day for that was a very good decision. The snow capped mountains feels so close when you reach there. Time was very less since we had to rush ack to pahalgam and then back to Srinagar, we enjoyed every bit of it. We went till the entry point of Yatra Dwar and came back. Approx at 12500 Ft this place is surely a visit.
Day5: Return to Srinagar and House boat stay
We returned same day evening as our booking was at the house boat named May queen. It was a luxurious House boat which all the amenities available. Wooden Interiors to Traditional carpets all over the floor and was very well lit with turkish lamps. Rooms were spacious and luxurious. I would recommend staying there and make bookings well in advance as the rooms are very limited. Food was average though. We had our dinner and said our goodbyes for the night.
Day6: Shikara ride and return flight to Delhi
Last and final day we decided for Shikara Ride as it is a mandatory thing in Srinagar tour. It was a 1 hr ride included in our package although if booked externally, then timings can be increased accordingly. Areas around Houseboats are mostly covered by bushes and dirt. One has to come out of it and see the beautiful Pir panjal range surrounding Dal lake. Lake is home to many floating markets and gardens surrounded by Lotus. Shikara laden with traditional items jewelry, textiles and fresh produce vegetables will approach you for sales. It was bit irritating also as number increases. They provide flavored Hookahs for 30 mins to 1 Hr. We enjoyed the kahwa with the view and soaked in as much beauty as we can before leaving. Finally we left towards the airport and said Adiu to our driver bhai Adil.
Do's and Don't:
*Negotiate as much as you can. Try to find the shops on your own and do not go for the popular spots where your driver or local guide will take you. They usually have commissions fixed.
*I would recommend to avoid Gulmarg Gondola ride and spend more time in Pahalgam. Spare at least 3 days and take time rather than just running from valley to valley.
*Almost everyone will ask or expect a tip. Be careful.
*They usually show fixed price for the horse rides in Sonmarg and Pahalgam. They had their union and local driver won't help with it. Speak to other tourists for better understanding and try to reduce the price as much you can.
*Prices of Saffron/Walnut/Shawls and other decorative items are more in Srinagar. Check from someone reliable about the authenticity and prices or otherwise you will end paying higher price.
* Airport security can take time as Srinagar security and baggage check in is also outside airport. So plan accordingly.
* It is much better to visit Kashmir in Summers and springs. All the Gardens are most beautiful during springs.
Links to specific locations.
Hotel Karma Gold- Srinagar stay
House Boat May Queen- Dal lake
Mughal Bakery- For plum cakes and cookies
Eden Resorts- Pahalgam
Krishna Dhaba- For Vegetarians
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