A few months ago, a friend introduced me to Rohan and Bharati, a filmmaker couple that runs the most heart-warming Youtube channel, Ronnie & Barty. One look at their channel, and I was soon spending my days and nights following their adventures through Gulmarg, Ladakh, and Manali. Their vlogs are dreamy, informative, extremely inspirational, and will have you booking a trip to the mountains even before you've finished watching a video!
In one of their most recent, Zanskar Series, the vlogger duo commenced on a journey to Zanskar starting from Shinkula Pass. In the series they venture into the remote region via the new road that has brought Zanskar a whopping 600 km closer to Himachal! If you've been looking for an epic road trip that you can take in 2020, have a look at this itinerary that Ronnie and Barty recommend!
The itinerary:
Lap 1: Manali - Jispa - Shinkula Pass
Distance: Approx. 200 km
Time taken: 7-8 hours
Ronnie and Barty began their journey from Manali to Shinkula Pass. If you're on this route, plan to stay the night at Jispa and start for Shinkula the next morning. The journey is approximatey 164 km long and can take up to 7 hours if the roads and the weather gods are in your favour. Please note that this journey is only possible in a 4x4 drive. A short drive from Sumdo in Zanskar, lies Shinkula Pass from where the real road trip (and their vlog) begins! Like every road trip in the mountains, it is suggested that you begin your journey as early as possible.
Lap 2: Shinkula Pass - Kargyak Village
Distance: 83 km
Time taken: 3 hours
Once at Shinkula Pass in Zanskar, you head to Kargyak Village. The road from Shinkula Pass to Kargyak Village is 83 km long and the road is a challenge like no other. Although most of the road goes through vast and open spaces, it often submerges into water, giving you the opportunity of driving through rivers. These are not tiny streams of water, but full-fledged rivers that require a proper four-wheel drive to cross. So make sure that you have a suitable vehicle that can power through Zanskar's difficult terrain.
The road, as Ronnie and Barty describe in their vlogs, is sure to give you a bone-chilling off-roading experience. Narrow and unpaved roads are what make up the new road to Zanskar. You'll soon be rewarded for your hard work by stunning views of Gonbo Ranhjon, a massive conical mountain that stands tall and mighty in the middle of the cold desert. The mountain is one of the most sacred ones among the people of Zanskar. Once you complete the final leg of the day, camp at Kargyak Village near the river.
Lap 3: Kargyak Village - Purney
Distance: 29 km
Time taken: 3 hours
The next day, you leave for a tiny village called Purney, which is situated on an approximate distance of 29 km from Kargyak. Remember, this journey is extremely difficult. However, you would surely want to make a pit-stop here not just for the fact that the village reverberates with solitude but also because it is home to the phenomenal Phugtal monastery. The monastery is a 40 minute hike from the village, so you would first want to reach a homestay or a campsite before heading for it. The structure of the monastery is awe-inspiring, and the fact that it is built in a cave which is more than 2,500 years old, will make your experience even more overwhelming.
Lap 4: Purney - Padum
Distance: 56 km
Time taken: 3 hours
Today, you go deeper into Zanskar Valley, to a town called Padum. After visiting and living in remote villages, entering the significantly big town of Padum is sure to be a welcoming change. The short route from Purney to Padum is a fascinating one, rife with gorgeous views, and vast open valleys with the occasional challenge of off-roading. On this route, you will also cross the elusive villages of Cha, Ichar and Muney. At Padum, you can opt for a homestay or even a hotel, have a Zanskar meal and visit His Holiness the Dalai Lama's residence.
Lap 5: Padum - Rangdum
Distance: 115 km
Time taken: 6 hours
This is the last leg of your journey to Zanskar valley. Today, you head to Rangdum, which is the last main town in Zanskar, after which comes Kargil. This journey is special not because it marks the successful completion of your trip, but also because it will bring you to the largest glacier in Ladakh, Drang Drung. If you manage to pull away from the majestic beauty of the glacier, you drive up for approximately 50 km to Pensila Pass, the last stretch of road to Rangdum. Once in Rangdum, reward yourself for having completed a journey that till now, very few travellers of the country have been able to undertake. If you'd like to be more adventurous, you can head all the way to Kargil, otherwise you can come back to Manali via the same route.
So when are you leaving?
Owing to immense snow in the region, the new road to Zanskar is likely to be blocked during winter. It is only in August and early September that the water levels will be low enough to safely cross rivers that come on the way.
To follow more adventures of Ronnie and Barty, you can subscribe to their Youtube channel here or visit their Instagram handle here.
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