Landour: The Tiara of the Queen of Hills

Mussourie is no secret. The hill station, also known as "Queen of the Hills." gets over 12 lakh visitors per year. However, there is a hidden gem nestled comfortably and cozily above the town of Mussoorie, a town that we had never even heard of, until we started planning our trip: Landour.

Home to Ruskin Bond, Mussoorie's best-kept secret was tailor-made for people like me who are not big lovers of noise or crowds and love to escape to the less tainted space.

Landour

Landour has to be one of the most easily overlooked destinations. In fact, we only happened upon the offbeat destination by chance on our drive from Mussourie to Lal Tibba Scenic Point. While Landour is really more of a small town than a true hill station, it's absolutely worth a quick pitstop to admire the breath-taking views of the lush green hills and the Himalayas.

Getting There

This beautiful town is perched high at the periphery of bustling Mussoorie, at a mere distance of 5 kilometres. It is a 10-minute drive from Mussourie. The road that leads to the hill station is narrow, and it is extremely challenging to navigate on your own, especially if you're not used to driving on mountain roads. Hiring a cab or taxi is a convenient and safe option for reaching Landour.

We hired a cab from Mussoorie to take us to the charming hill station. The drive up the steep and winding road definitely wasn't a smooth journey, but it was an adventure, and the views of the surrounding hills were a nice bonus.

Arriving in Landour

As soon as we stepped out of the car, fresh mountain air filled our lungs - a stark contrast from the polluted air of the cities. We were struck by how peaceful and serene the town was. There were no crowds of tourists or overwhelming commercial development. This is part of what made Landour so charming - it was a chance to escape the clamour of city life and to enjoy the simple pleasures of nature.

We checked in to a cosy hotel called Landour Ivy Bank. The hotel was about a 15-minute walk into the centre of town, and the rooms were clean and newly updated. The scenic view of the hills, the sound of birds chirping, and the sight of mist slowly lifting from the hills were tough to beat.

Our accommodation was a short walk away from the famous Char Dukan area, one of the most significant attractions in Landour. Ruskin Bond's house was also a stone's throw away, and I really wished I had gotten a chance to shake hands with him, but he refused to meet us as he was unwell at the time.

About Landour

Landour is a small town located in the state of Uttarakhand in northern India. It is situated about 6 kilometres from the popular hill station of Mussoorie, and it is known for its natural beauty, serene atmosphere, and old-world charm.

Landour was originally established as a British military cantonment in the mid-19th century, and it served as a retreat for British officials and their families during the hot summer months.

The town is located on a ridge that overlooks the Doon Valley, and it offers stunning views of the surrounding hills and valleys. While you could easily spend several days in Landour, a weekend is enough time to retreat from the madding crowd of the city and enjoy the hills covered with lush green ferns and the trees wound in creepers.

Major Attractions

St. Paul's Church

A popular attraction in Landour is St. Paul's Church. Built in 1839, the church is one of the oldest in the region and is known for its beautiful architecture. The church is located on top of a hill and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains.

Landour Cemetery

We visited the Landour Cemetery. The cemetery was established in 1828, and is the final resting place of several British soldiers who died during the Indian Rebellion of 1857. The cemetery is a sombre reminder of the region's colonial past.

Lal Tibba

One of our favourite spots was Lal Tibba, which is the highest point in Mussoorie. The trek is around 5 kilometres long and takes you through dense forests and winding trails. At the top of Lal Tibba, you can enjoy panoramic views of the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas.

Where to Eat

Char Dukan

Char Dukan, which translates to 'four shops' in Hindi, is a cluster of four adjacent small shops lining the narrow street that have been around for over a century. These shops offer mouth-watering pancakes, waffles, momos, and a dizzying array of baked goods. We reached here after lunch, so we could only make space for a pancake. But we came back the next day (empty stomach this time) to splurge on the goodness of the chocolate waffles. Pro Tip: Go there with an empty stomach, so that you can try the yummy waffles and pancakes.

Emily's Restaurant at Rokeby Manor

This inviting restaurant in Rokeby Manor is located on the road to 'Lal Tibba'. It has a casual vibe, great scenic views of the valley, and the food is so on point. We chose balcony seating and literally had lunch in the middle of floating clouds.

We were impressed by the range of Indian and Continental dishes on the menu. The portions were generous, and the dishes were beautifully presented. The flavours were rich and complex, with a perfect balance of spices and seasoning.

Landour Bakehouse

Landour is also known for its food, especially its famous bakeries. The town is home to several bakeries that have been in operation for over a century, and they are known for their fresh bread, pastries, cinnamon rolls, and cakes. The most famous of these bakeries is the Landour Bakehouse. It's hard to believe, but it's true: people from Dehradun are willing to make a long journey just to savour the delicious breakfast offerings at Landour Bakehouse.

The aroma of freshly baked bread and cakes pulled us towards the bakery, and we indulged in a delicious plum cake and croissant while sipping on a hot cup of honey lemon ginger tea.

Shopping

Sister's Bazaar

We also visited the Sister's Bazaar, a quaint marketplace with local vendors selling handicrafts and souvenirs. The market is named after a group of nuns who used to run a school in the area. Today, the market is home to a variety of shops selling everything from hand-woven shawls and scarves to wooden toys and jewellery. We ended up buying some locally-made jams from Prakash Handicrafts, a store that opened in 1928, and is well-known for its cheese and jams.

Looking Around

It's worth mentioning that town does tend to close quite early, and most of the shops and restaurants shut down by around 8 or 9 p.m. At night, the town is very quiet, and you can hear a pin drop. The streets are dimly lit, and there's a sense of calm and stillness here that's hard to find elsewhere. This can be a bit unnerving at first, especially if you're used to the noise and activity of city life, but it's also incredibly peaceful and refreshing.

The silence that envelopes the town at night is a magical experience that's hard to describe.

Overall, our trip to Landour was an incredible experience. The town's natural beauty, fresh air, and serene atmosphere made us feel relaxed and rejuvenated. The lack of crowds and commercial development helped to preserve the town's charm and character, and we felt like we had discovered a hidden treasure.

We left Landour feeling refreshed and re-energized, with memories that will last a lifetime.