Enchanting Mahabalipuram

Somehow it happens that I tend to enter the state of Tamil Nadu only during the Hindu Tamizh month of "Margazhi". This would be my fifth spontaneous solo trip to the state and all were done during this month.

This is considered to be an auspicious month where one dives into the ocean of spirituality.

It is the month of retrospection and introspection. You may see temples being closed and everyone busy fasting, meditating or trying to refrain from a certain habit. In layman terms, one may call this as a detoxing month.

And for me, Traveling is my only detox especially repeating destinations.

I got into the “Chennai Express” train that leaves from Dadar every day at around 08:30 pm. The general compartment was jam-packed. Some of them were regular office goers who travel to far north areas falling on the Central line such as Thane, Kalyan, and so on who usually block the entrance. I completely get it when people living in Karjat board an Express train. But people traveling Thane, Kalyan overcrowd an Express train where local trains are available for their commute. Well, this part really is annoying at the start of any train journey in a general compartment.

Somehow I was able to find a tiny space to fix myself near the loo and washbasin. I stood there in that same spot till we reached Solapur after which I made a space for me to park my butt. Finally I got some rest.

This is how I managed myself during the entire journey of 24 hours around the tiny space bear the washroom and washbasin. The train reached Chennai Egmore on schedule.

Being visited the state couple of times in the past, I had nothing in my head. I left without any plan on where to visit, where to stay what to do. And also due to the chaos and noise in the train, I could not put my mind to chalk out the “To-Do list” once I step out of the station.

So I was completely in a state of confusion. However, when stepped out of the station, I saw a classical art group performing right outside the station.

It is through their performances I was reminded that it was the month of "Margazhi". Therefore, the group performed dance and songs dedicated to the Lord Shri Krishna.

A famous folklore – “Mad Maikum Kanna” was performed by the group. This folklore represents the conversation between mother “Yashoda” and “Lord Krishna” who is portrayed as mischievous and at the same time fascinating and full of surprises.

So listening to such a soothing composition, I thought to wait there and enjoy the rest of the performances.

Meanwhile, during the performances, the actor started to narrate about “Pandavas” and “Mahabalipuram”.

This struck the chord and I made up my mind my to revisit “Mahabalipuram”. This town is famous and on the list of every foreign traveler.

It falls on the eastern coastal region of the state connected with the beautiful ECR – Eastern Coastal Road. This highway is heaven for bikers and for those who looking to quench their thirst for a road trip.

ECR – Give it a try. I guarantee, it will change your life. By the ECR runs up to the state of Odisha so you could imagine how blissful it would be.

So I quickly set out for “Koyembed Bus Terminal” because I know this place well. In fact, I have stayed here for days and days. The Bus Terminal has a bunk facility available for commuters. It is from here you can take intercity buses.

The next day I got a bus from the “Koyembed Bus Terminal” to Mamalapuram (Mahabalipuram is also known as Mamalapuram). It takes one and a half hours to reach here. The bus dropped me at the outskirt of the town. One can find rickshaws here, who can take you to all the important spots in the town. You should know how to bargain and negotiate the price. I knew the in and out of the town so I did not take the rickshaw and set on foot. Why spend Rs.800 – Rs.1,000 when you can cover every spot on foot.

I stopped at the regular idli stall.

The owner wanted some masala powder for the preparation of a chutney. So he ordered his son to get some and also drop me near the ancient sites.

My first stop was “Panch Rathas”.

1) Panch Rathas – Panch means “Five” and Rathas translates to “Chariot”

It was built by the Pallava dynasty, some 1,500 years ago. It is dedicated to “Pandavas” who are believed to settle here at the shore of Mahabalipuram during their time in exile.

Although they are shaped like temples however they were not used for prayers. The guide during one of my visit informed that the structures were never consecrated.

Starting from the entry – you have the “Draupadi” rath, then followed by “Dharmaraj Yudhisthir”,” Bhim”, “Arjuna” and one of the side is dedicated to “Nakul and Sahdev”.

The entire structure is carved from a one big stone or a hill. Yes, the complex is monolithic similar to “Kailasa” temple in “Sambhaji Nagar” in Maharashtra.

The Chariot seems to be driven by “Draupadi” and the Pandavas following her lead.

The interesting part of the complex is its “Nandi”. Usually “Nandi” is always facing his Lord and kept right in front of the Lord resting in the sanctum Sanctorium. However, the Nandi here, is right behind the “Draupadi Rath”.

Also if you look carefully to the boulder beside “Draupadi Rath”, you will notice that the stone is cut into two halves. The cutting is so strange and peculiar that one would ponder about the technology used to cut the granite stone with such a precision. See the below picture and the stone with the cut.

In 2004 this area was hit by a tsunami. It did touch these structures but failed score any harm to them. Such is the consistency of our ancient structures.

Moving from here, I came to the rock-cut cave temples and the lighthouse of Mahabalipuram. This structure is made on a massive boulder.

This is a simple structure however it looks like an elephant from the lighthouse.

The caves is a great place to take a nap. I remember during one of my visit, I slept here and the guard woke up me in the evening. However this time this place was crowded so left quickly and hurled further towards the "Arjuna Penance and the depiction of the "Descent of the Maa Ganga".

The Krishna Butterball and several other structures are in this vicinity. These are some of the architectural geniuses at Mahabalipuram and my personal favorite. However, the entire area is filled with ancient structures. I'll leave you with their pictures.

Ohh I almost forgot to share the picture of the "Shore Temple". Here it is !!!

About this temple, it is not on the beach of Mahabalipuram. It must've been hit by the tsunami in 2004, unlike other structures this temple is right on the shore. However, the way it is standing with so much grace is unthinkable.

It is also believed, there are some structures that are submerged in the sea. The "Shore Temple" is what remains now once was a part of a massive collection of architectural wonder.

There are teams that are working on this to unveil the truth. Only time will tell.

I hope a few experiences shared in this piece come in handy for you.

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