Celebrating birthday @14000ft: When adventure met spirituality; Gaumukh Tapovan Trek

We boarded the over-night bus to Rishikesh from Paharganj, Delhi. Finishing our morning rituals near Rishikesh bus stand, we wasted no time to catch another bus to Uttarkashi. A rickety mini bus was the only option for the day. CP was apprehensive but I reminded him of our travel motto - "Kyun dare travel mein, kuch nhi toh adventure Hoga!" (Why bother, if worse ,call it an adventure !).

Soon we began the bus journey and reached Uttarkashi by night. The journey through the beautiful hilly terrain, ensured that nobody complained, not even CP.

We went to the forest Office to get a 3 day trek pass. Gaumukh glacier lies under Gangotri National Park for which permit is given to 150 people per day. It was here that we got to know about Tapovan, a place beyond Gaumukh that can also be trekked for beautiful views of the region. By evening we took a Jeep to reach Gangotri. Being one of the pious sites of Chardham Yatra, there were scores of people; from old to young, families to adventurers, sadhus to foreigners. All kinds of people were making a beeline to the holy town. We reached there by evening and while searching for night accommodation came across S(I just remember his initial), our trek guide for the next 3 days. He was a young chap of our age who agreed to be our guide for a nominal Rs 800/day (besides food & lodging which were to be borne by us). We had roughly planned to reach the apex of our trek, Tapovan on Day 2 to celebrate my birthday. Our accommodation today was just beside a small waterfall which made thumping sounds which became even scarier during night. But our weary bodies having covered 500kms, were just too tired to heed to these noises. We succumbed to deep sleep within moments of hitting the bed.

Our ascent started at 8 in the morning . We registered ourselves at the entry check post where one has to notify all plastic bags that they are carrying. The money gets deposited & is refunded only after showing all those bags on return. The trail is well marked with Bhagirathi river flowing on one side. The sun shone bright above our heads with a cold breeze that blew throughout the journey. After 8 km is Chirbasa, a small halt with few food stalls. Post that there were few signs of greenery but the trail was mostly rocky with rubble scattered all along. En-route one finds many small streams carrying pure water melted high above from mountains draining into the river.

After 14km of trekking and we reached Bhojwasa base camp around 5 in the evening. We got comfortable accommodation in a large tent of Lal Baba Ashram for Rs300 including dinner. We strolled to nearby area that had a Govt meteorology station. Near the river side we saw chunks of big ice , clearly indicating how freezing the temperature would get by night. Dinner meal of soya chunks & hot chappatis was insufficient to feed our hungry tummies. But what made the night so amazing was the phenomenal view of sky studded with millions of twinkling stars. It felt as if we're in one of Galaxial Colonies of Star Wars movie, surrounded by hundreds of other floating homes who were flashing their light at us as a greeting. I slept early that night. However my mind was filled with anticipation for the surprises that the place held for us tomorrow on my birthday.

It was my birthday & a rather eventful day. Early morning after sweet daliya as breakfast, we left for Gaumukh. We reached there in 2 hours and had first clear view of the majestic Bhagirathi massif and Shivling peak. With glacial sheet at its base, a mouth like opening was visible(hence the name Gaumukh= cow's mouth), from where the mighty Ganga was emerging fresh from the molten galcial snow. The view was surreal but we had to tighten our belts to reach Tapovan.

The route is really dangerous & shouldn't be attempted without a guide. We crossed the entire gravely and mud ladden terrain from one side of Gaumukh to other. Later on we realised that it was nothing but a huge glacier, as ice was visible beneath the soil. It was both thrilling and scary. A single wrong step could have led to a life threatening fall in any deep crevices. After crossing the glacial route, we met the 2nd challenge. It was in the form of a vertical cliff with ~60-70° incline. The loose rocks made our ascent even more challenging. CP started complaining, but I managed to convince him again with our motto. We began slowly, the second step rising only when the former foot had found a firm ground. In a jocular mood I told him, "If I fall and die now, then my birth and death anniversary would luckily coincide!" But soon I realised the seriousness of the situation when we had to cross the river fall - Akash Gang, mid way of our climbing. Though the vertical climb was short & dangerously exhausting, after reaching its top the view was arrestingly beautiful.

Tapovan is a plain area lying in the lap of Mt Shivling with that Akash Ganga flowing like a gentle brook before it becomes waterfall . We went to a Mauni Baba's Ashram for night halt. Mauni Baba, an anchorite was living there round the year & hasn't spoken for last 7 yrs. But his warm food and hospitality was way better than any our pleasing talk. We also met 2 Brazilian backpackers, a south Indian Baba(Guruji) and old Mata ji who all had came there on spiritual purpose.

I came to know through the Guruji that the whole Tapovan has been discovered by Swami Chinmayananda, with many peaks identified by him- Mt Shivling, Bhagirathi I, II, III, Mt. Meru. In evening Baba gave me lump of jaggery to distribute among fellow companion as my cake.

Though the Tapovan plan was made in a haste on our way, with all trouble and risk it was worth coming. With serene beauty of snow clad peaks and the surprise company of enlightened souls: this is how I celebrated my birthday@ 14000 ft.

P.S. - A month post this trip I fell mysteriously ill. With swollen feet, locked jaw & intense pain I remained bed ridden for almost 3 months. It was later diagnosed as form of Arthritis. But as they say- what doesn't kills you, makes you strong. Very soon will hit the road again.