My Andaman stories are more of an experience and some informative. Though, I have jotted some basic information at the end of this blog.
I had reached in Andamans, with an objective of searching for a job. I had turned Professional Diver just in May and didn’t want to work in Goa. The best destination for scuba diving in India was either in Lakshdweep or Andamans. In Lakshdweep, due to Government’s rule almost all private operators had shut their shop and moved in other parts of India. Andman looked a best choice for me to work. I had been in Andamans before, so had done diving in 2015.
To reach Andaman, Port Blair is the only airport. Other mode of journey to reach this faraway set of Islands from mainland which is about 1000 plus kms, was sea. A ship takes approximately 3 days either from Chennai or Kolkata. None has this long time or patience. Ship operates once in a week or 15 days and departures are announced at the start of every month, whereas flight takes 3/4 hours for non-stop option or one stop option might take from 8-12 hours depending on layover city. From Port Blair, you can travel to the famous, Havelock and Neil by ferries either government or private. Government ferries are slightly slower and private ferries are closed modern and faster. In Government ferry you can experience open air by sitting at open deck. There are 5 government ferries and 3/4 private ferries to reach Havelock and Neil islands.
You can visit other places like NorthBay and Ross island by faster boats. To visit middle and North Andaman, you can travel by Andaman Grand Trunk road which is not in great shape as off now, but with the ongoing work on expansion of this road, it should be ready in 2/3 years time. You can visit middle Andaman by Government ferry which operates twice a week.
Private ferry operators charge almost double amount than Government ferry, but you can book online and for Government ferry, you can book couple of days advance and at the Phoenix Bay jetty. In Government ferry, priority is given to locals and then tourists. If you are lucky, you might get ferry ticket for the same day's travel.
If you would like to explore Andaman, You can’t just touch and feel the core of it. Life in Andamans has to sink in you slowly. One can not judge Andamans’ natural beauty and go gaga about it like every tourist does. Live here for few days, the real Andamans in the true sense. This holds very true, when you are from a megacity like Mumbai or any other part of the world, like Europe or US.
I was ready for Andamans much before I planned it. Limiting my needs. If anything essential is not available, don’t crave for it, just live without it and you will get used to it. On the first day, I saw the common toilets and had thought of asking for upgrade, but as soon as couple of days passed by, I got used to it because they were clean and why do I need toilets for whole of 24 hour? Its just required twice or thrice in a day, so why crave for it. Save that money and utilize it somewhere else.
I was planning to stay here for long. When I got used to my accommodation, I started exploring beyond that. I had to utilize my time for quite a few days of stay till mid-July and not just laze around.
Not to waste time which I had in my hand, joined for a beach clean-up activity and felt the dire need of taking he task in hand. At the beach, next to my stay, saw plastic thrash littered around, so I spoke to the owner and decided to start with the help of few diving buddies and backpackers who were staying around. This was to keep myself busy and avoid attending parties and also to stay away from booze. I also had one more target was to keep myself fit by starting long walks or cycling which a recently made friend who had promised to let me use his cycle.
The exploration of Havelock materialized immediately from next day.
I had heard in my earlier visits and from my Mumbai friends about it’s beauty so I decided to visit Elephanta beach which is the only center for water sports in Havelock except scuba diving or lotsa driftwood on beach. Some years back, there were some elephants in this part of the jungle. Now, there is only one left, but it’s tied up. Sometimes, they let him loose in the night though. It was also known for its reef which is very close to the shore, which hence made it a good spot for snorkelling. Also, this beach is accessible by boat and by a short trek through the jungle whereby twin objectives to be achieved.
Andamans sun rises at 4.30 and so did I to get ready for trek. Elephant beach trek starts from a certain point on Radhanagar, for which you can take a jeep or bus from Havelock no. 3 market area to there and request driver to drop at that point. If you have rented bike, which is Rs. 400/500 a day depending on seasonal demand. You can park your bike at the starting point of trek.
It doesn’t matter whether you reach early morning or afternoon as the sun doesn’t hit you at all. A nice 2 kms walk in the jungle – a mix of ascend and descend on a broad path and it’s well covered by giant trees leading to a mangroves area. Though there are small boards at the start and end, BUT A word of caution here. If you get lost in the jungle, its very difficult to come out as there are no marked paths, beyond certain point.
There have been few cases of people getting lost and found after 24/36 hours, dehydrated, exhausted and lack of food. The Jungle plays with your mind when when you are unsure. To make it completely sure, you can take a guide from the starting point who will charge you 500 for a group.
Once you reach the Mangroves, it’s a sign that the Elephant beach getting closer. A 8 to 10 mins walk into mangroves will open up literally to a heavenly place. It’s a perfect example of nature’s magical play with a turquoise colour sea reaching to touch the blue sky. I am sure, wall Paint companies have perfectly named a colour taking an inspiration from the sky.
Here one can connect with human relations of sky and ocean, as tied with a bond of a thread called love which is the horizon. Sky plays a dominant part, While sky changes colour and the ocean reciprocates but changing to a seamless blend of colour, too.D
A long stretch of Elephant beach is the only place you can go for water sports activities in Havelock, though the facilities are available in Port Blair’s Marine park also by travelling by boat to North Bay Island.
For swimmers and snorkelers, this beach is paradise as the reef is almost right next to shore. Various kinds of corals –soft and hard, Groupers, scorpion fishes and more can be seen right from surface, if you are a snorkeler. Unfortunately, when I reached, swimming and snorkeling was closed due to some incident, but it has started at the start of 2020 season which is August/September.
I was told by couple of guys about Turtle beach as well which is very close to and accessible only from Elephant beach and one can swim with turtles. Unfortunately, entry to that beach was closed.
Elephant beach also has a peculiar identity. Driftwood. Logs of various kind of old trees drifted in from the ocean onto this beach. You can look at every log and play with your imagination about it’s resemblance to some or other form, you have witnessed in your life.
You can walk back to the starting point and can visit Radhanagar beach which is hardly 2/3 kms.
Havelock is spread on three sides. First side is Jetty from where tourists enter Havelock by fery. One reaches Market or Havelock 3 which is a centre point. On your left is Kalapathar end. On your right, the road ends at Radhanagar beach, one of the longest beach in Havelock. Its not only longest but a beautiful one also. It ws awarded with 4th beautiful beach in Asia few years back. This beach is very popular and easily accessible by road, so everyone can reach. This is also known as sun set beach. Beautifully maintained by Havelock Gram Panchayat, gets cleaned up by always available clean up staff. Guarded by ever alert guards, a safe beach to swim as well. With locker facility, shower room, toilets and restaurant facilities, this beach is completely tourist friendly. To make it more safe, whole beach area is getting covered with CCTV network. Facts:
Andaman and NicobarHavelock Island Season: August till May endHow to reach: By flight: From any city in India. After commissioning of International Airport, it will be accessible from South East Asia countries
By ship: From Chennai and Kolkata by a sea journey of 2/3 days depending on weather
Local travel: By ferries or by road. You can book private ferries online. For Government ferries, you will have to personally visit Phoenix Bay jetty either couple of days before travel or if you are lucky, you can ticket on the day or journey.
To travel by road, you can hire a car or if you are backpacker, you can travel in State Transport buses.
Where to stay: Range of luxurious to budget Hotels are available at Port Blair, Havelock and Neil islands which are the main tourists spots. You can stay at any of these 3 places and plan day trips either by road or ferry. At Havelock island, you can rent bamboo shacks as well which are cheap.
Food: Majority of locals hail from West Bengal, Tamilnadu or Andhra Pradesh, so you can taste these states’ food. Mostly rice is a staple diet alongwith fish and chicken. Nothing is grown here except rice. Everything is brought in from Mainland India, so you might find it overpriced.
What to do: Andaman is famous for water sports. Nowadays couple of treks and jungle walks are becoming popular. Weather: Pleasant in the night, but during the day, sun can hit you hard.
Clothes to carry: Cotton, shorts, 3/4ths,
Accessories: sun hat, glares, sun cream. Sports shoes, slippers
For places to visit, please wait for next blog. If you want to explore and experience, the way I did, please visit my blogsite: www.nomadsnomadism. Com