Kareri Lake : Trek to a Concealed Lake

When I tell someone that I am traveling to Dharamshala or McLeodganj for a trek he/she will be like, "Ohh you are planning to go on Triund Trek". It has been contemplated that McLeod  = Triund and vice versa. Don't get me wrong Triund is one such beautiful trek which I have done that offers magnificent view from summit but in my dictionary trekking is about that dose of adventure, good views and that physical and mental challenge which is best served when done in desolated places.

I came across one such place when I was searching for a short trek in the Shivalik range because at this point of year most of the snow treks are either closed or its not possible to reach summit because of heavy snowfall. In that case it was wise to choose a trek that is short and in Outer Himalayas.

That trek was 'Kareri Lake', mid-altitude, fresh water lake in the Dauladhar Range, it’s a glacial lake at an altitude of about 9,000 ft. above sea level, and it takes trekking 15 kilometers in the mountains to get there. It remains frozen for most of the winter.

Before further stretching lemme take you to the day wise journey.

Rough Itinerary :

Day 1 - Arrive at Dharamshala
Day 2 - Dharamshala to Kareri Village
Day 3 - Trek starts , Kareri Village to Ryoti ( camping site) , attempt to Kareri Lake
Day 4 - Back to Kareri Village

After an overnight journey from Delhi we arrived at Dharamshala ( Thanks to Himachal Roadways ). It was 5 in the morning, as soon as I stepped out of bus I started shivering, see only two things can make me shiver, first when result is out and second icy winds, this time it was icy winds.
It was pitch dark and I can count stars after a long time which I clearly can't in Delhi thanks to AQI of Delhi.

Our plan was to reach Kareri Village before evening but first we want to visit the famous Cricket Stadium of Dharamshala. There are 2 ways to reach Kareri Village either you can rent cab to Kareri Village which will cost around 1500 bucks or you can take a local bus which goes to Ghera from Dharamshala bus stand and then take a cab from there to Kareri Village. The second option is much cheaper.

Cricket Stadium opens at 9 AM so we decided to wait in the canteen of bus stand. As I was looking out of the window I saw a war between  sun rays and dark forces of night. The emerging orangish color of the sky was evident of the blood fight and a signal that Sun is about to rise.

Next thing we did was to visit Dharamshala Cricket Stadium, I have seen various stadium but it was the magnificent snow capped mountains behind this stadium which shouted there is no stadium like this in the whole world which offers such a view.

By the time time we came back to Bus Stand it was 10 :30 and we hopped on the next bus to Ghera which was scheduled on 11 AM. ( Last bus to Ghera leaves on 12:30 ).

It took around an hour to reach Ghera and then another half an hour to reach Kareri Village from there via cab. Cab cost us 400 bucks for 8 people and 30 bucks per person from Dharamshala to Ghera via bus.

Kareri Village is a very small place with population around 350 only. There we met our host cum trek leader Man Singh Ji and we put up in their homestay. After reaching there Man Singh Ji told us that due to heavy snowfall the last stretch of route to the lake is impossible to cross, at that point we were offered two plans either start trek early and reach Ryoti (5 km from lake) till afternoon and then return to Kareri Village same day which at first sounds like this is not what I came for and second option was to trek to Ryoti, camp there and then after offloading try to visit lake if possible otherwise overnight camping in Ryoti which sounds more like my kinda trip also I'll have an attempt to the lake ( I don't wanna hold any regrets) For second plan we have to carry tents, sleeping bags, food & supplies etc on our own which again sounds kinda exciting to me. After agreeing to overnight camping in Ryoti we used rest of the day to explore Kareri Village.

It was 8 in the morning and everyone was getting ready, at this point we have to minimize our luggage to fit our sleeping bags and some supplies for the night. From tents to stove there were lot of essentials to carry. Somehow fitting them in our rucksacks, we started our trek. At first it looks like a team which is specifically tasked to survive in the mountains carrying only core things for their survival.

At 9 AM we started trekking, initial trek is through pine forest that too steep. You will find a stream alongside the trail which is Nyund, a tributary flowing down through the Kareri Lake.

Although you can find bits of snow from start only but after trekking 3 km we were properly trekking in the snow. Now it was getting difficult because at some places trees were toppled due to last storm and there was no proper path, also your foot sinks in the snow and you have to make extra efforts to get it out but the thing is, that happens with every step. After some time weight of the bags and these conditions were making it difficult to trek but it was the picturesque view and physical challenge for which I came for, so yeah these pumped me up at the same time.

There were points where one wrong step could skid you down to the valley. Although Kareri Lake is very pleasant trek in monsoon but in winters like every other trek its the very same snow we are trekking on can take you if you are not careful enough.

We managed to reach Ryoti by 1 PM where Man Singh Ji decided to camp but first we have to make that place flat enough for camping. We started walking and patting the surface enough to build 3 camps. There was a small stream underneath and I was in constant terror that during night, tents wouldn't hold off but would rather sink.

Now the most interesting part of trip, our guide gave us a choice of whether we want to trek further or stay here. Now we can trek without luggage leaving that in the camps but we were already in 2 feet of snow and almost every group from past week have returned from this place but it was our only chance or an attempt to the lake. Lake was 5 km from our camping site but the problem was that we were not having any trekking gears to deal with the further trek conditions but I didn't wanna hold any regrets that I didn't even tried so only 3 people from our group decided to go further, at least reach as far as we can go. So a team was formed with one bag carrying just water. It was just 20 min after trekking we realized that why people were returning from the place where we camped because now with every step my whole leg was getting down in the snow. We reached a point where even footsteps of other trekkers vanished. In 1 hour we only have trekked about a kilometer and a half. Now came one of the problematic thing, crevices. I got stuck in one of them and my friend which was behind me had to dug the snow around my leg to get me out. Now the trek has changed paths from difficult to dangerous. At this point we decided to go back. I was disappointed but there was a little satisfaction of 'I tried'. Again it was not even easy to came back to our camping site.

We had dinner in our camps at 6:30 and Man Singh Ji told us to sleep. Even we were tired enough but we can't sleep at 7 in the evening with these icy winds outside. With terror of our camps getting submerged, temp of about -10 C
and uneven surfaces of our camps I went to sleep at 1 in the morning by listening to only those 6 downloaded songs that I have in my phone.

We woke up to this amazing sheet of snow, when I first opened my camp it was the icy wind which shivered every inch of my body but the warmth of the magnificent view kept me going but cold overpowered warmth and I went back to my tent. My shoes somehow got frozen (I left them outside tent ). Even laces were not even moving, I borrowed stove and literally barbecued them over the stove.

Easy part of every trek is returning but this trek was destined to be difficult at every part. Overnight, the snow got rigid and it was difficult to tight hold foot on that, it was becoming slippery instead. In that case we did 2 things first shifted our weight to the opposite side of valley and second started walking in crouch position. We encountered places which scared us to the thought that now we're gonna fall but it was the teamwork due to which we managed to get passed those places.

When you are returning from a trek it is like a final goodbye to your trip, you travel that same path remembering hey yesterday I was at the same place only ascending. Now the cold didn't bother you its the thought of going back and you try to memorize this moment, this place , these beautiful mountains, these hurdles and every other thing you have encountered in past 2 days.

After the final goodbye to those beautiful mountains we reached Kareri Village from where we took a cab to Ghera and then bus to Dharamshala where a bus was waiting to drop us Delhi to our monotonous life.

Like always I stole some of Kareri and secretly kept it in my heart, so all I have got to do was to close my eyes.

Finally, signing off till my next trip.

A man sends his regards,
Valar Morghulis