SPITI VALLEY - WINTER TRAVEL GUIDE

Certain places spark a sense of curiosity in you the first time you hear about them and Spiti was that place for me. My first visit to Spiti Valley was during the summer of 2017. I was there for a couple of weeks and had the chance to interact with the locals residing there for decades. They would often tell me anecdotes about their everyday life, the breathtakingly cruel winters – how the whole landscape transforms into a sea of white and its impact on their way of living. All of these tales ignited a sense of curiosity in me to visit and experience this wonder someday. The icing on the cake was when the villagers of Kibber mentioned the sightings of the Snow Leopard during the winter. I knew then, for sure, that I would come back to this wonderland at its very best.

Photo of SPITI VALLEY - WINTER TRAVEL GUIDE 1/1 by Kaushik Sarma — Winter Wonderland at its finest

Reaching Spiti Valley in the Winters

Reckong Peo

The only way to reach Spiti Valley during the winters is via Shimla and Reckong Peo route (as the road via Manali and Rohtang Pass is closed in the winters). I planned my 18 days long visit on the 2nd and 3rd week of February as the route to Kaza, Spiti Valley seemed relatively clear of landslides & avalanches. Being a budget traveller, I always use public transport. Therefore, I used the Himachal Roadways website to book my bus to Kaza from Shimla. My initial plan was to have a break journey from Shimla to Kaza with an overnight halt at Reckong Peo. This would have allowed me to get some rest before another long travel to Kaza and also get my body adjusted to the overbearing cold temperatures. However, at the time of booking the search did not display any results for buses between Reckong Peo and Kaza, and my entire plan was changed. I booked the only bus that was shown available which leaves from Shimla at 6 pm and reaches Kaza on the following day at 6 pm. This was a big mistake and I suffered the consequences of it.

Cost related details are shared at the end of the post

Photo of Reckong Peo, Himachal Pradesh, India by Kaushik Sarma

The bus arrived at Reckong Peo at 3 AM on a snowy chilly -14°C morning and I was left stranded and shivering at the bus stand with no one in sight as the next connecting bus to Kaza was at 7:30 AM. Eventually, I requested the only person around to allow me to wait in the driver’s waiting room till my next bus to Kaza is ready for departure.

The only upside to booking a direct bus from Shimla to Kaza would be that you won’t have to buy a fresh ticket to Kaza upon reaching Reckong Peo. But, to be honest, it is too much of a hassle especially keeping in mind the sub-zero temperature and the gruesome 24-hour long journey you’d be required to endure. Instead, I would suggest to leave from Shimla in the morning, reach Reckong Peo by evening, have a nice overnight stay near the bus stand in a lodge or dormitory room, and hop on the following morning at 7:30 AM bus to Kaza for your second leg of the journey.

It is also important to keep in mind that your journey from Reckong Peo to Kaza, depends on the weather as the bus could either go all the way till Kaza or drop you midway in Sumdo. From Sumdo you would have to rely on the locals going towards Kaza on smaller vehicles which takes approximately 2.5 hours. I decided to get down in Tabo to explore around before I went all way to Kaza.

Tabo

Tabo

Around 45 km before Kaza falls a small village called Tabo. A scenic Spiti village surrounded by mountains and a frozen river next to it. When I arrived in Tabo, the temperature was clocking to -20°C and I could feel the chill down my spine on regular occasions even after wearing all my warm clothes. I checked into a cozy homestay which the locals helped me find and later started my exploration by walking around the village. I came across a couple of viewpoints that offered a spectacular view of the snow-covered terrain and the village. I remember just sitting there for hours and soaking up the beauty despite the freezing temperature. It is a perfect place to start your winter exploration in Spiti and at the same time enjoy the hospitality of the locals. Tabo is also home to a beautiful monastery which is worth a visit.

Kaza

Kaza

Reaching Kaza from Tabo isn’t very difficult as locals travel on this route regularly or you could always hitchhike. Kaza is the district headquarter of Spiti valley and also functions as the base point to reach the villages of Kibber, Langza, Hikkim, Komic, and the Kee monastery. It is situated at a lower elevation as compared to its adjoining villages. Upon arrival in Kaza, I settled myself in a homestay recommended to me by my host in Tabo.

In February, the locals organize an archery competition in the Kaza monastery followed by a good warm lunch. So, check for the dates if you’re travelling around this time.

The market remains fully closed except for very few shops during winters, therefore, it is essential to come prepared with your warm, woollen wear and other winter equipment. The ATMs are not operational either, so always bring enough cash.

Kibber

Kibber

My main reason to visit Spiti during the winters was to spot the winter wildlife and there could not be a better place to spot them than Kibber. (Check this link to know more on Wildlife of Spiti Valley) Kibber is situated at 14200 ft. above sea level and is one of the highest villages in the world. Kibber is also part of a wildlife sanctuary. Quite a few homestay options are available which can be booked on arrival. I stayed in Zotpa homestay and was hosted by a really warm and loving family. As my main purpose was to spot winter wildlife, especially the elusive Snow leopard, I planned my stay here for a week to boost my chances of spotting one.

During my stay, I went on numerous small hikes, walked to Kee monastery and to the nearby village of Chicham. Chicham Bridge connects both the villages, offers an amazing view of the gorge underneath, and is a perfect site to spot wildlife. So, don’t forget to check that out!

One of the highlights of staying in Kibber has to be the night sky. This place offers a great view of the starlit nights and if lucky, even a glimpse into the Milky Way Galaxy. If you plan on capturing it be sure to bring a sturdy camera stand and power banks along.

Kee monastery

Key Gompa

Kee monastery also known as Kee Gompa falls on the way to Kibber from Kaza. It is more than 1000 years old and the largest one in the district of Lahaul-Spiti. Located at the edge of the cliff, Kee Gompa is one of the most picturesque monasteries I have ever come across. It offers a breath-taking view of the valley and the snow-capped mountains around. The kind of view that will leave you out of words and send you in a state of tranquility.

During my stay in Kibber, I frequently took afternoon strolls to the monastery, spent some peaceful time, and head back to the village before it gets dark and the temperature plunges further below. Although the walk to Kee monastery and back to Kibber was as long as 10 km, I never felt tired. If truth to be told, I always found myself completely zoned out in nature and would often look forward to these lazy strolls.

Langza

Langza

Kibber and Kee monastery falls on one side of Kaza while Langza, Hikkim, Komic fell on the other side. You could either come back to Kaza, spend a day, and then head to Langza or go directly from Kibber. I decided to do the former. Cars are available for rent to Langza from both Kibber and Kaza and would cost around ₹800. I hitchhiked to Langza.

Langza is a very small village accommodating just over 100 people. The villagers mostly rely on farming during the summers for livelihood but in winters, when the whole terrain is covered in snow, they are dependent on craftworks such as shawls, carpets, etc. You could see them sitting in groups knitting shawls or scarves on sunny yet cold afternoons. The village has a golden Buddha statue overlooking the valley which adds a special charm to this place.

Langza Buddha Statue

My reason for visiting Langza was not just to experience the beauty of the place but also to meet the family that hosted me on my previous visit during the summer of 2017. The colourful mud houses of Langza perfectly resonates with the vibrant and warm personalities of the people living there. Each of these houses has a beautiful collection of fossils that can be found around the region, and for this reason, this place is also known as a fossil village.

Hikkim-Komic

Hikkim

Just a few kilometres from Langza is a village called Hikkim which has the highest post office in the world. I never really had the opportunity to stay here but every time I visit this place, I ensure that I send a postcard to my home address writing about the time I spent in Spiti and its unique experiences. It takes more than a month for the postcard to arrive and by that time we’re usually done with the trip and are back home. But when it does arrive, it takes you back to the time you spent in this amazing place and lets you relive those moments vicariously through the postcard.

Komic

Drive 2 km further and you’ll reach the world’s highest motorable village, Komic which is located at over 15000 ft. from the sea level. Be sure to visit the beautiful Komic monastery. A small local café could also be seen around where you can take a break and enjoy the beauty of this scenic village. This café also offers a place to stay, so if you decide on spending a night here, you can do that too.

To reach Hikkim-Komic from Langza renting out a vehicle is the only option but luckily for me, I got to hitchhike with an expedition team who were touring around Spiti. I joined them from Langza to Hikkim-Komic and eventually got dropped off in Kaza, where I spent a couple of nights and then started my journey back to Shimla.

Journey Back to Shimla

Shimla

As mentioned earlier, due to the unpredictability of the weather, there are chances that no state authorised buses are available on the day of your return journey. However, there are 1-2 minibuses (Force Traveller) operated by locals almost everyday between Kaza and Rampur (130 km before Shimla). It is important to remember that you must book these seats at least 2 days in advance. Generally, these buses leave early in the morning at around 7 am and drop you off in Rampur by the same evening. From Rampur, plenty of buses leave for Shimla and the journey time can vary between 7 to 8 hours. If you’re lucky, you may even find a minibus going all the way till Shimla but that’s a rare scenario. You can get the details on the minibuses from your local host in Kaza as they usually have the information available on it.

Travelling to Spiti during the winters is a challenge in itself. Be it the unpredictable weather, the long uncomfortable journey, constant landslides en route, bone-chilling cold, or the problems related to altitude sickness, one has to be prepared to deal with all of these when planning a trip to this heaven on earth. For this reason, it is advisable to keep at least 2 buffer days in hand in case if things don’t go as planned for you. (Check out the link to know more on Spiti Winter Travel Checklist)

But trust me, this trip will leave a special mark on you and will be a part of your unforgettable memories of life!