Sainj Valley, Shangarh: A visual treat

Day 1: Escape from the Heat

Leaving behind the scorching heat of Delhi, we embarked on an overnight bus journey to Aut. As we approached the Aut tunnel at 6:30 in the morning, we debated whether to disembark before the tunnel as our stay’s ‘how to reach us’ guide mentioned. The deserted road convinced us to stay on until the bus stop. Asking around the stop, we learnt that the first bus to Sainj would depart at 7:45 and we simultaneously began searching for fellow travelers to share private cabs to Shangarh.

We soon found two companions, and the cab ride cost us 500 per person (2000 in total). The journey was a visual delight, with the Sainj River flowing alongside and occasional glimpses of snow-clad mountains peeking through pine-covered hills. The early morning view of Sainj Valley was mesmerizing and thus we began our ascent from Ropa Valley arriving in Shangarh around 7:45 AM.

With some time to spare before check-in, we walked to the famous Shangarh meadows, a vast, resembling freshly mowed lawn surrounded by pine trees and snowy peaks. A serene temple stood in the middle, adding to the tranquility.

On our way back, we strolled through the village and observed a school’s morning assembly, bringing back memories of our own school days. The rest of the day was spent taking multiple trips to between our stay and the meadow and spending some in-time at a quaint café (Hiraeth).

Day 2: Hike to Ganjau Thatch

After a breakfast of Siddu at a local place near Zostel, we inquired about the day hike to Ganjau Thatch. Despite suggestions to hire a guide, we decided to navigate the trail ourselves, armed with water, wafers, and protein bars. We set off at 11 AM, accompanied by a friendly dog who seemed to take a liking to us.

About 30 minutes into the hike, we encountered herders who directed us to a stream to refill our bottles. The dog ensured our safety, scaring off monkeys as we ventured deeper into the forest. The dense forest was surreal but a bit overwhelming, and being a first-time trekker, I needed constant reassurance by my friend of our proximity to the clearing.

As clouds loomed, we spotted a small wooden temple and my friend was very sure that we were extremely close to our destination. However, my patience wore thin, and with the threat of rain, we decided to turn back. Retracing our steps, we passed the herders again, feeling a bit defeated but grateful for the experience. We do recommend going for this hike with a group or a guide because the journey itself was truly a scenic wonder.

Day 3: Soaking in the Serenity

Starting the day with parathas for breakfast, we basked in the morning sun surrounded by wildflowers and apple trees at our stay.

We revisited the meadows and explored the Shangchul Mahadev temple in a nearby lane.

Attempting a shortcut back, we got slightly lost, learning that in the mountains, everything appears closer than it is. It’s always best to stick to known paths and seek local guidance.

Back at our stay, we inquired about transportation to Aut. Locals advised us to hitchhike, as taxis returning from dropping tourists often go empty and charge less. Luckily, we did find a kind cab driver at the Great Himalayan National Park entry, 500 meters below the meadow lane. Joined by two women, the journey was filled with discussions about local politics and the devastating impact of rains and dams on the community the previous monsoon as the valley prepares for yet another season very soon.

We reached Sainj just in time for the last bus to Aut at 5 PM. The cab ride cost 200 for two, and the bus fare was 67 rupees in total, saving around 1500 if we would directly book a cab from Shangarh. Passing through charming villages, we finally arrived at Aut bus stop at 6:30 PM. After exploring the dhabas, we found a café serving delicious momos and noodles where the owner suggested we visit the terrace, offering a stunning view of the calm Beas River amidst the hills.