Once upon a time in Spiti...

We started our journey from Chandigarh and decided to rest for the night at Narkanda (8,599 ft), which is 62 kms from Shimla. To my shock, the very first day, my oxygen fell to 88 and I was breathless. I was scared, uncertain and wondering what would happen in the days ahead if this was the condition on day 1. With a lot of encouragement from my doctor, family and friends, I decided to brave this out and take one day at a time. Our stay was at Sukoon Narkanda Cottages, though the caretakers were caring but overall, the place is in the middle of a highway and there’s nothing much to do. I guess a better property in Narkanda can be opted for a night halt.

Day 2, started with a smooth drive from Narkanda to Sangla (8,900 ft) via Rampur. We drove on the iconic Hindustan Tibet Highway and took blessings of Taranda Mata. We were put up at Hotel Batseri, which is a beautiful property by the banks of the river Baspa. On the way we explored the Padam Palace in Rampur and Karcham Dam. Hotel Batseri has few trekking options and the food is delicious. I can totally recommend the hospitality at this Hotel and is a must visit for a minimum of two days. Do check their beautiful apple orchard on the way to the property.

Day 3, we embarked on our way to the next stop Kalpa (9,711 ft). On the way we explored the tiny hamlet and India’s last village, Chitkul. You can walk around the village. It was a nice, peaceful walk. We also visited the local market in Reckong Peo which has a lively feel to it and is buzzing with people. Roads are bad until you reach Reckong Peo and foreign nationals need to obtain a permit here to enter Spiti. We did visit Roghi, suicide point but the drive is scary and can be skipped.

Our abode at Kalpa was the Grand Shammbala. It’s a property facing the Kinner Kailash Mountain range. The hospitality and food are top notch. Our room was on the fourth floor but gasping for breath due to low oxygen we settled on the third floor. Rooms are slightly small and gawdy but the people managing them are wonderful. If you are lucky and it’s a clear day, you can spot the Kinner Kailash Shivling right from your room balcony.

Day 4, we headed from Kalpa to Tabo (10,60 ft). On the way you will have to register yourself at Pooh. We explored Nako lake. Though it was pretty but nothing extraordinary. The 11th century monastery at Nako is gothic and vibrant. The frescos are still intact and speaks volumes about the artisans then. In Tabo, we were put up at Spiti Mud Huts, which is a beautiful property surrounded by the raw, chocolaty brown mountains and is a stone throw away from the Tabo Monastery. It ages back to 996 CE and is the oldest earthen Buddhist monastery in the Himalayas with some beautiful murals and paintings.

The monastery shop which is next to the old monastery has some nice souvenirs. There are 3 shops next to the new monastery. Only the middle shop has reasonable souvenirs. I picked a few coin pouches and magnets from there. You do pass Khab, which is a confluence of Spiti and Sutlej. I personally felt that the drive to the Gue Monastery could be skipped. The drive is on a dirt road and it’s arduous. Honestly, it’s very far and not worth the time and effort it takes to reach there. The mummy of Sangha Tenzin is 500 years old with its teeth intact. There is an entry fee of Rs. 30 per person.

Day 5 is when you enter Kaza (12,470 ft) from Tabo. The drive is smooth and, on the way, you cover Dhankar village/Monastery and Pin Valley National Park. The view from the monastery overlooking the mud ridges and mountains is a delight and the highlight of the place. The trek to the lake is uphill for 2 kms and we skipped it. Pin valley national park has two main villages Mudh and Khungri. We drove for around 20 kms into the park and then turned back to proceed to Kaza.

We stayed at the heritage Hotel in Kaza, Sakya Abode Premium wing. The hospitality, food, and rooms are brilliant and it was a comfortable stay. We were originally meant to stay for 3 nights but we had to extend it to 4 nights due to the unprofessional behavior at Spiti Village Resort. They canceled our booking at the last minute and left us stranded. Thankfully Rutika from Sakya Abode, our travel agent for the trip came to the rescue and extended our stay at Sakya for an additional night.

Day 6, we explored Langza (14,500 ft): which is famous for a huge Buddha statue at 14,300 ft. It was super windy and cold and we had to walk for around 10-15 minutes to reach the statue. There is an entry fee of Rs. 30. The place is rich in marine and animal fossils, though we didn’t spot any but it’s apparently a delight for geologists and archaeologists from around the world. Do try seakbuck thorne tea while you are there.

Komic Village: Is Asia’s highest village connected by a motorable road. Its at 15,027 ft and it means Eye of a snow cock! The panoramic view will leave you spellbound and its best to spend some time exploring the village on foot.

Hikkim (14,570 ft): the highest post office is the star attraction. Pro tip – buy the postcards in Kaza, its priced at 20 Inr per postcard and you can stamp it at Hikkim and drop it in the post box. It’s a fun activity and it took around 13 days for my postcard to reach my residence.

Day 7 was a rest day to chill and absorb the vibe in Kaza. We explored the local market and ate some lip-smacking food over four days in Kaza at Piti Café, Sol Café and Taste of Spiti. Do try Thenthuk and vegetable momos at Piti café. The whiskey brownie bite and Nutella brownie at Sol Café is worth trying.

Day 8 we explored chicham bridge, Gette, Tashigang, Kibber village and Key monastery. Pro tip – one can stay at Tethys Himalayan Den at Chicham (13,244 ft). We saw this place while exploring the area. This will make it easier to go to Chandratal the following day. It saves roughly 1.5 hour of travel time.

Chicham bridge is the highest suspension bridge in Asia. It’s a small bridge overlooking the valley. It’s windy and there’s a small café next to it. Kibber wildlife sanctuary is famous for spotting snow leopards, blue sheep, Ibex and other animals. We couldn’t spot any. But it was a lovely drive and we thoroughly enjoyed the barren mountains and green meadows.

Key Monastery (13,688 ft) has some hiking for around 10-15 minutes from the car park. It’s the largest monastery and the monastery dates back to the 11th century. It offers picturesque views of magnificent vistas. There is a monastery shop outside the temple.

Day 9 was an epic adventure day. We were to visit Chandratal (14,100 ft) lake and then head to Manali. The temperature at 6 am was 1 degree Celsius. It was very cold! Our stay at the lake was canceled by the local police due to early snowfall in the region. In fact, we were discouraged to even visit the place at the check post. But we decided to visit it and the journey on the way from Kaza to Chandratal will blow your mind. What jaw dropping landscape! You reach losar in around 2 hours and then you move to Kunzum Pass, which is a high mountain pass covered in snow. Take blessings from Kunzum Mata and capture some milky white photos of never ending snow. The next stop is at Batal. Do eat at Losar because you get food/water straight at Batal which roughly takes around 6 hours.

Once you reach Chandratal lake, it’s an uphill walk in parts for around 30 minutes while going and 20 minutes while coming back. As you walk to the lake, the first glimpse of the turquoise lake soothes the eye and soul. Spend some time at the lake and walk back. It heals you in a way. You are calm and your heart is filled with gratitude.

The drive from Chandratal to Manali is one hell of a drive. Its bumpy, you are driving on stones and pebbles and there is no road till Gramphoo. It takes roughly 6 hours from Chandratal and every being of your body will move while on the route. The food at chacha-chachi dhabha on the way to Manali at Batal is mediocre but there is no other choice.

We reached Manali around 6pm and we started our day at 6 am. 12 hour back breaking journey. Our rockstar driver managed to save around 2 hours while driving. We used Atal Tunnel on the way and its state-of-the-art technology. Monu bhaiya mentioned that thanks to the tunnel it saves a lot of time and makes it easier for them to drive.

Day 10 we chilled in Manali. It was a lazy day with some shopping at Mall road and a quick visit to Hdimba devi temple. Mall road has German bakery and the place is a must go. The desserts, smoothies and sandwiches were amazing. We stayed at Hotel Snow Peak Resort. It’s an old hotel with good food and hospitality. The rooms are kind of run down but overall, the place is away from the hustle and bustle and has a calm vibe around.

Ten days on the Spiti complete circuit is a whirlwind. It takes you to great heights, low oxygen, you are gasping for breath and headache is a constant companion. But barring all this lies unimaginable vistas, landscapes that are so pristine that it can bring a tear to your eye. You are spellbound most of the time and in complete awe and smitten by Spiti. It’s not your usual travel destination and everything difficult needs extra effort. Don’t worry, you will be rewarded with larger than life terrains and humble-simple life of people as compared to fast, self-centered lives in the metros. Enjoy the journey, the people, the food and simplicity.