Kinnaur: The Unexplored Himachal

As the summers already started to hit the streets of Delhi NCR. The much needed getaway started from Kashmere Gate ISBT.

I booked online HRTC's AC deluxe (also known as Himgaurav) bus from Kashmere gate to Rampur.

A little bit about this bus service.
Service No.: 589
Timings: Bus departs at 7.24 pm sharp!
Charges: ₹1,091 (including all the taxes) booked from HRTC's official website

Note that unlike HRTC's Volvo/Scania(also known as Himsuta) bus service, the Himgaurav service is not operated as part of Himachal Tourism.
So don't expect to have complimentary water bottles, the comfort, as the bus is from TATA motors and it feels like you are travelling in an ordinary bus equipped with an Airconditioner, power outlets besides the seats to charge your laptops or mobiles, although there are recliner seats, but, no foot rest

It was 4:13 am with the first dawn about hit the roads of Shimla, the queen of hills, my bus reached at Shimla ISBT Tutikandi for 15 minutes halt.
I reached Rampur, the Kinnaur district starts here, at 8.30 am. The bus stopped at the new Rampur Bus Stand which is about 1.5 km away from the main market area of Rampur.
As I wanted to explore, also wanted a break in, Rampur. I chose to stay there for one night.
Although without information I ended up in a guest house at the bus stand, I would highly recommend to go for a stay in HPTDC operated guesthouse which is located just 1.5km away from the bus stand.

I had dinner at Cafe Satluj (operated by HPTDC) which is shaped like a sphere and at night one can mesmerize the gorgeous views of the Mountains right from the table.

Just infront of SBI ATM you can find tempo travellers that leaves at 6 in the morning for Spiti in just ₹1,500.
I met this guy Surukpa, leaves near Key Monastery, who drives his tempo traveller from Rampur to Spiti back and forth on daily basis.

It was time to head to my ultimate destination Chitkul, but, on locals recommendation I chose to go Recongpeo ( the main headquarters for Kinnaur district) and the Kalpa village.
I took the bus at 11.15 am, and sat on the very first seat next to driver, that was heading to Recongpeo, however, it started its journey at 12.30 pm from Rampur Bus stand.

The terrain is notoriously known for its deadly turns, falling boulders but all these disappears with the breadth taking views. My bus had to stop twice, first just after exiting Rampur for about 20 minutes as the road was blocked due to falling boulders. The second stop was pretty  lengthy, 2 hours, due to blasting work carried out by the municipality of Kinnaur for road widening.

At about 4.30 pm, I reached at the Recongpeo main square. I immediately started thanking those locals who recommended me to go there. This town is something special which you can never get from any other town in Himachal. The breadth taking views of Kinner Kailash mountain and the absolutely cold temperature is the blessing of staying in Recongpeo. By this time, I started to feel that winters have arrived. The extremely chilly temperature in the night, yes -4°c, was something I was looking for when I started my journey from Delhi.

Just like Rampur, Recongpeo's bus stand is also away from the main area of the town and that too at ascending road that leads to Kalpa and Roghi Village.  So make sure if you want to stay in Recongpeo then better deboard at the traffic light or else you have to climb down using the big staircase from the bus stand. Alternatively, you can take local private shuttle, locals call these maxi, which ply's between Kalpa village and Recongpeo main square.

Although everyone recommended me to go Kalpa, I decided to stay in Recongpeo and chose to stay in budget hotel. The room was okay, however, the geyser (water heater) wasn't working. The views from the balcony took away all my sorrows I had for choosing the bad room.

After gazing the beautiful sky full of Stars in the night, I woke up at 9:00 am and decided to go Kalpa. After some Google search and phone calls, I finally got good deal for Hotel Destination Kalpa for ₹700. I took the shuttle, or what locals call these maxi, and within 20 min I was at my hotel. The road to Kalpa is in pretty good condition.

The room, the hospitality, the food and of course the views were absolutely mind blowing.

The next day was all about reaching to Chittkul  and luckily I was just on time to catch direct bus to Chittkul from Reckong Peo bus stand at 8.30 in the morning.

Once you reach the Karcham Dam, the most treacherous road of the Kinnaur valley starts full of blind turns and narrow roads.

About 2km away from Chittkul, the most beautiful road of Kinnaur valley starts!  Back then everything was frozen and it looked like winter wonderland.

The village was quite empty at that as majority of the tourists visits for day trips and most of the locals shifts to the lower region of Himachal Pradesh.

At that time I was the only one staying at The Wonderer's Nest. As Zostel already cancelled  my online bookind citing heavy snowfall but it was accepting the walk-ins. These are the only two hostels as of now. Most of the hotels were either shut or were offering the limited service as everything was frozen right from water in the taps to the playground of the only school in Chhitkul!

Although everything was frozen but Chhitkul's beauty took away all the sorrow of no facilities. I won't forget that sky full of glowing stars, the snow cladded mountains, those beautiful pine trees and the beautiful Baspa river flowing silently.

At the time of my visit, there wasn't any internet connection and the only mobile operator that works is BSNL  and that too only on voice and SMS though I heard Jio is entering in that area soon. So be prepared with your further travel plans in advance.

After spending two days, it was the time to say goodbye to this wonderland. I took a bus directly from Chhitkul at 9.30 am which was heading towards Mandi. I de-boarded at Rampur and took another bus to reach Shimla and finally reached there at 6 in the evening.
Finally, I took a Volvo service from HRTC at ISBT Tutikandi for Delhi and waived good bye to this unforgettable experience.